Hi guys,
I'm new to the forum here. I am definitely still a novice when it comes to DIY electronics. I've had a partially completed Bugle on the back burner for quite a while now. I bought it a number of years ago already pre-assembled. It's in a foil-lined box (which eliminates a minor EMI buzz) with small cut outs for the existing RCA jacks, access to the power switch, etc. It's hooked up to two 12-volt SLA batteries. I feel it's long overdue to be put in a proper metal box.
So I've come up with this parts list (with links) that will hopefully finish the job. Does it look like I have it covered? Any alternative parts to recommend or other suggestions?
Description Qty. Mouser Part# Price (each)
Aluminum Box w/lid & screws (black) 1
546-1590DE $21.29
(7.83" x 4.73" x 2.37")
Self-adhesive Feet (12.7 mm, square) 4
517-SJ-5018BK $0.18
Strain Relief (for battery cable pair) 1
836-1280 $0.34
Ground Binding Post 1
530-111-2223-001 $2.20
Op-Amps 3
926-LM4562NA/NOPB $2.68
RCA Jacks (red) 2
502-BPJF02AUX $2.37
RCA Jacks (white) 2
502-BPJF03AUX $3.00
RCA Jack insulating washers (fiber) 4
502-S1564 $0.52
RCA Jack insulating washers (plastic) 4
502-S2207 $0.53
SIP Sockets (for loading resistors) 1
575-113132 $3.18
(photo is generic) (
datasheet)
Toggle Switch (DPDT, ON/ON, 30V DC) 1
633-S6A-RO $5.25
A few questions:
1. What gauge of hook-up wire is recommended for the RCA jacks? And for the power switch? Stranded wire should be a little easier to work with and to solder, right?
2. Does the toggle switch need to be insulated from the box?
3. Using SIP sockets to change the loading was recommended to someone else on another forum. My primary cartridge uses a 100k load for best sound. I have another cartridge that I occasionally swap in but it sounds best at 37k. Right now I have resistors soldered onto RCA plugs and use Y-connectors to adjust the load. But now I want something cleaner and I think a pair of sockets would do the trick for that once-in-a-while swap. Do those sockets look like they would fit the bill? I've heard that the life-span on their internal contacts isn't too long but they would be used sparingly.
4. Are the LM4592 op-amps worth it? I have a chip puller, so it should be fairly easy to remove the existing OPA2134s. There shouldn't be any incompatibilities swapping the OPA2134s directly for the LM4562s, right?
Thanks for the help.