Hot comparisson!! Alpha LS vs. Stihl MS 210C

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. Read 8266 times.

jonwb

Hot comparisson!! Alpha LS vs. Stihl MS 210C
« Reply #20 on: 4 Nov 2003, 04:05 am »
Quote from: Andrikos
Did you use a table saw or did you measure every single panel?


Thanks Andrikos...  yes, I used my little table top Delta table saw AND I measured all the panels.  I sliced all the panels at the full 8 foot length.  That way if I screwed up one end or the other I could keep the better end.  These little benchtop saws are tricky because the fence is so stinkin' short.  You can see the out-feed rollers (God-send)  behind the saw, and the sheet of shelving I setup for the in-feed.  Anyway, I got them all either dead on or w/in a 32nd, so I should be OK.  

I'll be cutting them to length tonight, sanding my veneered plywood (ripped that Saturday as well) and starting to work on my prototype for the vertical edge (need to experiment a bit).

Rob Babcock

  • Volunteer
  • Posts: 9296
Hot comparisson!! Alpha LS vs. Stihl MS 210C
« Reply #21 on: 4 Nov 2003, 04:13 am »
I wish I had the guts to do that, jonwb.  I think I'm too chicken to take on a project like that.  The finish stuff is what gives me pause; I otherwise have done quite a bit of woodworking.  Hope the project goes well for you.

Andrikos

Hot comparisson!! Alpha LS vs. Stihl MS 210C
« Reply #22 on: 4 Nov 2003, 11:20 pm »
Jonwb,
make sure and post your progress in pictures. :)
It'll be interesting to see how you're doing.
Good luck!

jonwb

Speaker Terminal Question
« Reply #23 on: 14 Nov 2003, 03:03 pm »
Hi guys,

My progress has been slowed a bit due to a quick refresh of our master bedroom.  You know the story, bought new bedroom furniture so we probably ought to replace the carpet, and if we are going to do that we really should paint the walls, but the walls look like crap so I should fix up the cracks and holes and then retexture...

I have managed to keep things moving a little though.  Tammy stained and varnished my 1/4" birch veneer plywood panels, they turned out great.  I hope I don't screw them up (she'd kill me).  

All the MDF panels are cut to size, my router bits showed up (www. pricecutter.com has good router bit prices BTW).  I ordered a 1/4" spiral downcut bit and a 45 degree chamfer bit with a 1-1/8" cutting length (for my 3/4" x 3/4" chamfers).  My updated cross-over bits (w/ Sonicaps) showed up from Danny.  I also received my digital camera, so including pictures should be easier.

Which brings me to my question for you guys.  As I think I mentioned somewhere previously, I plan on doing external cross-overs.  I also have sufficient terminals to allow for bi-amping/wiring all the way through.  So, I have 12 sets of Danny's heavy brass speaker terminals.  I want to have the terminals popping straight from the back of the box(es).  Preferably, no plastic spacers or plugs showing.  Like this from Darren's gallery:



But... the terminals I got from Danny have a plastic spacers with them.  See here:



No problem I thought I don't really need the spacers, or do I?  As you can see below the back sides of the brass terminals have flats cut in them that are keyed to the plastic spacers.



I don't have a bit for cutting a hole like that...   :?   Basically, there is not regular/round shoulder on the backside of the terminals.  So unless I'm a dingbat (entirely possible) it would seem that I'd end up having to drill holes for the size of the threaded part and just end up w/ the two undercuts sitting out there in the open (gasp).  Akin to this:



Or, the plastic spacers on the outside of my boxes.

Suggestions anyone?

Jon

Danny Richie

Binding post
« Reply #24 on: 14 Nov 2003, 07:00 pm »
You can always counter sink the whole thing.

Just drill your holes for the post and insert them on the plastic holder.

Then draw around it with a pencil or something.

Then use a 1/4" straight cut bit on your router to cut it out by hand.

If it is not perfect that is okay. You can always use some wood fill or Bondo and some sanding to get it all straightened out.

When you veneer over it no one will know what's underneath.

Also keep in mind that you are drilling through 1.5" of MDF.

You will need to use one of these bits (see below) on the inside of the cabinet so that you can get the nuts on the other side of the binding post and have room to turn them.



Or you can use a hole cut saw to cut a large hole in the inner layer before it is assembled.