[TomS]

Somebody clarify for me: is the X5 more expensive than the X3 because the woofer is larger? I was scanning the details pages back and forth and that's about all I could see different. Did I get that right?

Yes, X3 (15") is $8500, X5 (12") is $6950. The baffle is also slightly taller and wider for the X3. Some prefer the tweeter to be lower, as in the X5 (at least I do). The 12" X5 is plenty in my room, 17x19x8 plus other room openings.

[sunnydaze]

Somebody clarify for me: is the X5 more expensive than the X3 because.......

According to what I see on the website, X3 is more expensive than X5.

[Big Red Machine]

I wonder if a tubed integrated would be a good match with these efficient speakers. Maybe a Class A?

[screener]

I wonder if a tubed integrated would be a good match with these efficient speakers. Maybe a Class A?

Here's a video that might answer your question.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Su41Ivt7VbA&feature=youtu.be

Look around the 1hr 16 minute mark.

[TomS]

I wonder if a tubed integrated would be a good match with these efficient speakers. Maybe a Class A?

I'm using the Don Sachs Valhalla ~30wpc, integrated KT66's, 6SN7 preamp section, dead quiet on the X5's, drives them no problem. Also using the Bricasti M1 SE DAC.

[Ern Dog]

I'm using the Don Sachs Valhalla ~30wpc, integrated KT66's, 6SN7 preamp section, dead quiet on the X5's, drives them no problem. Also using the Bricasti M1 SE DAC.

How does it sound?  And what were your previous speakers?

[Big Red Machine]

So it appears the woofers are powered so a low powered amp would do the trick then. How difficult is it to integrate the bass?

[TomS]

So it appears the woofers are powered so a low powered amp would do the trick then. How difficult is it to integrate the bass?

Yes, very simple to do, just a volume knob on the amps. The Hypex amps have pre-programmed settings for DSP from Spatial, nothing there for the user to mess with at all. I've had them cranked up for break-in, which takes considerable time. Once my GIK treatment package arrives, I'll reset everything to "normal", as I'll probably have 100-150 hrs by then (2 more weeks).

I'm planning to experiment a bit with power amps, perhaps post that on another thread, as this one is about Don's amp. IMHO I wouldn't do the fleawatt thing in a room of reasonable size. The DS ~30wpc toob'd is very nice match for my medium size room. The drivers themselves can support huge power, but you'd have to leave the room, maybe the house, if you got carried away. But, you won't hurt them. One thing you definitely want is quiet, lower gain structure amps, as you'll hear it on the AMT @97db. The DS Valhalla is dead quiet, which really surprised me.

[TomS]

How does it sound?  And what were your previous speakers?

I'm still in break-in period, so hard to comment just yet. They change a lot.

Previous was Focal Sopra No 2 with a Devialet Expert 220 Pro. JBL M2's and TAD Evolution One's for ~4 years before that. All very good, each has their own charms.

[jriggy]

All new system...congrats, Tom!!!

Jason

[TomS]

All new system...congrats, Tom!!!

Jason

Thanks, all part of the fun, as you well know 

[radarnyc]

Hi Tom - what’s your room treatment plan; what are putting into traps, absorbers and diffusion? Thanks!

[TomS]

Hi Tom - what’s your room treatment plan; what are putting into traps, absorbers and diffusion? Thanks!

10 traps, a compromise combination of both, as it's in our main "shared" living space, which is very difficult to accommodate what's needed. It also serves double duty, 2 separate systems, for 2ch and HT (Atmos 5.1.4). I'll provide more details and some pics when the GIK's finally arrive and are in place.

[glfrancis]

I know Don wont reply, but curious about xover upgrade that he had done. Worth asking Clayton about or was this a 1 time special m

[geerock]

Don had VCap Odams, or Miflex caps put in.  I did mine too, but did them myself without cracking the speakers open to get at the caps.  If you do you lose the warranty.  It's a simple procedure.  I've tried Mundorf silver/oil, Miflex, and VCaps.

[glfrancis]

Don had VCap Odams, or Miflex caps put in.  I did mine too, but did them myself without cracking the speakers open to get at the caps.  If you do you lose the warranty.  It's a simple procedure.  I've tried Mundorf silver/oil, Miflex, and VCaps.

I'd rather have Clayton do it and retain the warranty...if possible. Speakers already seem like they will be amazing, but this review describes what I am looking for (detail, soundstage)

[doggie]

Interesting that Soundcare refers to its floor contact devices as "Superspikes".

I always thought that spikes have a sharp triangular and pointed contact surface with the floor to perform coupling.

The Superspikes look like they have a broad surface for floor contact which seem more like a "footer" meant for decoupling.

@geerock. Where are the caps located? Are these for the tweeter? I am just curious.

Edit: Oops! I found a diagram of the Superspike's construction and they are indeed spikes encased in a sheath.

[morganc]

I'd rather have Clayton do it and retain the warranty...if possible. Speakers already seem like they will be amazing, but this review describes what I am looking for (detail, soundstage)

I had a long discussion with Clayton about this...and I have the Miflex caps unused if anyone wants them, let me know. I even have custom made holders for the Caps that Clayton made for me.....but long story short, Clayton says the cap change effects the Tweeter/Woofer integration and so after buying the parts I never installed them.....

Also:  Don bought his pair with the upgraded caps so he never had a comparison to stock......

Also:  If you want plenty of detail, use the X series with a transparent Pre like the Don Sachs and add in a digital amp like the Cherry Megaschino.  Detail, warmth, imaging all day long....I would also bet a tube amp would give amazing imaging as well.....choices are endless, results are gonna be pretty good to amazing regardless.....

[geerock]

@geerock. Where are the caps located? Are these for the tweeter? I am just curious.

You can see the cap between the layers from the side of the speaker.  But DO NOT try to crack open the panels to get at them.  It is very easy to run an exterior wire to bypass the existing cap.  Looking at the AMT from the back you simply unsolder the right side lead.    Then run a wire from the hot lead (red) at the speaker binding post and solder on the new cap.  It's a 4 microfarad and I used Dueland wire as that is what Clayton uses.  Instead of soldering the cap to the wiring I actually soldered in a binding post and used the thumb screwdowns to change out caps in seconds.  No soldering of caps required.  Right now I've got Mundorf silver/ oil caps in there.  I dont know how to post a photo.  NOW....LISTEN UP PLEASE.  I am not condoning that anyone try this as we are not talking night and day difference and Clayton may choose to change out the Clarity cap for one of your choice at the factory.... maybe.
I'm sure he doesnt want to be waiting on caps and holding up production because everyone wants a different cap.  The DIY is quick, easy, and reversible to go back to stock. Also....I can see someone who is unskilled with a solder gun dropping a hot piece of solder on the exposed rear of either the midrange or woofer.  I will say that Clayton gave me this procedure personally and for me it was a nice change with no catastrophic accidents.  In other words....proceed at your own risk.

[geerock]

I think I figured out how to post a pic.