[Vedder323]

Hey fellas,

So as some of you know, I have been using brick and some painted boards for my audio stand and lately decided it was time to get a little more creative and come up with something affordable yet functional. I decided on 3/4'' maple and galvanized pipe. My design goal was to make sure the stand was modular which makes taking it apart for reviews and components I need to swap out much easier. Anyhow, I am pretty happy how it turned out and thank god my bro was around to help me out with the finer things like the trim. Enjoy and let me know what you think...  OH! If anyone has any good ideas on how I can use spikes with this, feel free to share...  id really like to eventually ditch the pads.












 

[Guy 13]

Hi Vedder323.
That's very creative and the end result look very good
and I am sure a lot less $$$ than something already made.
Well documented with lots of pictures, I like that.

Guy 13

[persisting1]

Any chance you filled the pipes with sand or led shot?

Looks great btw 

[Folsom]

Nice.

I've come to appreciate the 3 leg however, after moving between a couple uneven floors with my DIY 4 leg

[mresseguie]

Excellent! I'll bet it's good and solid.

[Guy 13]

Hi Vedder323.
I've look again at your pictures
and if you paint the pipes light red or black or even beige would that be an improvement on the look?
Not that right now they don't look good, but just an idea to make it look better.
Many spikes have one end that is treaded you could make treads on the caps
and screw the spikes to the caps.

Guy 13

[bdp24]

Fantastic! For spikes, Parts Express sells the Dayton Company line, and they offer a bunch of different ones. The spikes all come with threaded inserts that you imbed in the bottom shelf and into which the spikes screw. Really good, really cheap.

[mlundy57]

Nice job. I've been thinking about building a component rack for awhile myself.

If you're wanting to keep the pipe caps and only get rid of the pads, then Guy 13's solution of drilling and tapping the caps to match the threads of the spikes you want to use would be the simplest I can think of.

bdp24's idea of threaded inserts would be the simplest and cleanest for spiking the bottom shelf to the floor.

Mike

[BobM]

Nice conceptual design and great execution. Paint the pipes as suggested above and it will look much more "finished". I like the trim around the edges of each platform.

[Nick77]

And the 24k question, does your system sound any different?? 

[rollo]

  Looking good Sir. You may consider decoulping the stand from the floor. Herbies products are worth a look.



charles

[Danny Richie]

Cool looking rack Vedder.

  Looking good Sir. You may consider decoulping the stand from the floor. Herbies products are worth a look.

charles

Charles, I know he calls his products "de-couplers", but they are actually the opposite. Spikes or devices that poke into the floor to keep something stable and keep it from moving is "coupling" it to the floor.

[Jeffr1966]

I actually like the pipes "as-is" ... gives it a great industrial look!

[gregfisk]

I think a lot of the products Herbies sells do decouple and are not spikes but I haven't tried any.

Nice rack Vedder, I too like the pipes as is, for the industrial look.

[Danny Richie]

I think a lot of the products Herbies sells do decouple and are not spikes but I haven't tried any.

Nice rack Vedder, I too like the pipes as is, for the industrial look.

A de-coupling device would be something that allows the object to move around or float. Like setting a platform on a bicycle inter-tube. A magnetically levitation platform is another. Things that don't allow movement (rigid things) do not de-couple.

[WireNut]

So you decided to stay with the pass labs xp-15?

Drill and tap the bottom of the caps for 1/4-20, M6 x 1.0, or 5/16-18, 3/8-16 treads.
Only thing I can come up with unless your a machinist.

[Danny Richie]

The Herbie product discussion took a life of its own so I split it into a new thread. We can continue to discuss his products in the new thread.