[kinku]

I am looking for a solid state integrated amplifier for my bedroom. I am not looking for class T for their poor audio qualities and tube amps including SET due to space issues.Any suggestion for new or vintage SS integrated / receiver units preferably below 20 W?

[xsb7244]

The Samet  I-15.  15W integrated SS amp designed and built by Sol Samet.  Do not know the price.  Contact richidoo

[richidoo]

The I-15 is still in development. Circuit is frozen, point to point sounds great. PCB design is starting now. Introduction expected Q4 2013. Thanks for your PM kinku, and thanks for the recco, xsb7244!
Rich

[opnly bafld]

I have the previous version of this in my bedroom system and feel it is a solid performer at $299 ~ 30w/ch.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Home/Audio-Components/Hi-Fi+Audio/A-20

Lin

[kinku]

Thanks Richidoo. 50 watt is too much(not needed) for my 15W rated FR speakers..always carry a risk of burning them off by someone full throttling the gain too.

[opnly bafld]

The Pioneer is 30 watts at 8 ohms and your Fostex drivers are rated at 50 watts music power (whatever that means).

[borism]

There is a Dayens Ampino 25W SS integrated for sale on AC.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=114073.msg1189697#msg1189697

It got great reviews including by Srajan Ebaen and the price seems reasonable.

[srb]

The Pioneer is 30 watts at 8 ohms and your Fostex drivers are rated at 50 watts music power (whatever that means).

Well, music power in some way relates to short duration peaks, and I would think having a full 30W available with low distortion for millisecond peaks would be very desirable.

Steve

[SET Man]

Thanks Richidoo. 50 watt is too much(not needed) for my 15W rated FR speakers..always carry a risk of burning them off by someone full throttling the gain too.

Hey!

  With SS amp, you are more likely to burn your speaker out with lower wattage amp than with higher one because you are more likely to clip the lower wattage SS amp than higher wattage one. And when that happen you'll get cooked voice coil(s)

   Of course with tube, the amp will just run out of steam and no harm done... well as long as the amp was well designed at the first place.

 Hmmm.... it will make it easier for us if we know what is your budget for this? Is tube really out of a question here?

Take care,
Buddy

[Bemopti123]

Naim Nait 3... 30 watts of thunderous power. 

[kinku]

I was under the impression that a higher power rated amp (like 30-45W) can burn the 15W rated coils in FF125WK if someone turns up the volume accidently. But it seems like that is not the case. How can a low power rated amp can destroy speaker by clipping.Please give me something to read.I guess I need to read more?

[S Clark]

How can a low power rated amp can destroy speaker by clipping?

... by feeding it a distorted signal.  If you are worried about someone turning it up too loud, then put a fuse in line with the speaker.  Are you assuming that a speaker sees an even current at all frequencies???  They don't.  Are you assuming that an amp rated at 20 wpc delivers that evenly from 20- 20 KHz and only at 20 watts when maxxed out??? It won't.

[ltr317]

How about the famous NAD 3020 integrated from the 1980's (20 watts at 8 ohms)?  That model sold like hotcakes and put NAD on the map.   

[medium jim]

How about the famous NAD 3020 integrated from the 1980's (20 watts at 8 ohms)?  That model sold like hotcakes and put NAD on the map.

May I recommend the Marantz 2220....they are wonderful and can drive a bus:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-MARANTZ-2220-RECEIVER-WITH-LED-UPGRADE-SERVICED-BEAUTY-/261212601343?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd17bfbff



No affiliation with the seller....

Jim

[jarcher]

How about the famous NAD 3020 integrated from the 1980's (20 watts at 8 ohms)?  That model sold like hotcakes and put NAD on the map.

+1. Got a NAD 314 last year which is quite similar (35wpc) just for laughs for the home office.  It's from the mid / late 90s and paid $30 for it. Very punchy & enjoyable amp & pulls above its price (even new). NADs "soft clipping" feature is nice protection if you're paranoid about someone being ham fisted with the volume.

[JLM]

Hey!

  With SS amp, you are more likely to burn your speaker out with lower wattage amp than with higher one because you are more likely to clip the lower wattage SS amp than higher wattage one. And when that happen you'll get cooked voice coil(s)

   Of course with tube, the amp will just run out of steam and no harm done... well as long as the amp was well designed at the first place.

 Hmmm.... it will make it easier for us if we know what is your budget for this? Is tube really out of a question here?

Take care,
Buddy
 

 

Traditional solid state amps "clip" when overloaded.  Think of the shape of a (smooth) waveform from a single frequency (mathematically a sine wave).  The height of the wave is based on wattage in this case (and the width is based on frequency).  This can be the single frequency signal an amp sends to your speakers in which the driver tries to copy by moving smoothly in and out, quickly at first then slowing to a stop then faster again in the opposite direction (in and out).  When the amp overloads the top and bottom of the waveform are cut off (flattened), or "clipped" off.  Being a physical object with mass, the driver cannot stop instantaneously, so the result is heat being generated in the voice coil and the driver gets "fried". 

Conversely, when a driver is overloaded with a "clean" (versus clipped) signal it simply stretches beyond linear displacement (it flexes) with minimal stress to its various components.  Additionally, "extra" power allows for a "firmer grip" (increased control) of the driver to provide better resolution which can result in improved imaging and detail. 

Another option for low power/small amps are "chip" amps (simple/pure design, favorites of the DIY crowd, usually small, popular before the class T amps as having the sonic attributes of both tube and solid state amps).  These are the solid state version of SET (tube) amps with the extremely short signal path and exact design being very 'tweaky'.  Look up Scott Nixon for 20/40 wpc small/plastic encased examples.  Or if you're interested, I have a pair of 40 watt mono blocks (Channel Island Audio VMB-1) just sitting in the closet in the original box that you could buy.  They have massive power supplies with a special design to set them apart from others plus Dusty Vawter's very practical touches.

[genjamon]

There is a Dayens Ampino 25W SS integrated for sale on AC.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=114073.msg1189697#msg1189697

It got great reviews including by Srajan Ebaen and the price seems reasonable.

Thanks for the mention. Ampino is a low profile unit with two inputs. It would be great for a bedroom system.

[Shogun]

I haven't heart it, but base on it design (chipamp) and reviews, it should sound more musical than solid state without the hassle of tube http://www.clonesaudio.com/

[Bob in St. Louis]

I was under the impression that a higher power rated amp (like 30-45W) can burn the 15W rated coils in FF125WK if someone turns up the volume accidently. But it seems like that is not the case. How can a low power rated amp can destroy speaker by clipping.Please give me something to read.I guess I need to read more?

There's not much more to what has already been said, except this:

I would rather drive 100wpc speakers with a 1,000 watt amplifier, that to drive those same 100 watt speakers with a 10 watt amp.
"Headroom" is a wonderful thing.

You could "what if" until the day you die. But what you want is watts. Watts are your friend....that is...assuming they're quality watts, but that's a story for another day.
I wouldn't worry about somebody bumping the volume knob.

Bob

[rif]

I have an NAD c350 that I like a lot and  I've never had anything to complain about it.