[Kristian105]

Just getting around to building my n3tls i picked up last year. 

[Kristian105]

I had time to route the baffles today.  I decided to front port mine.. but upon fitting the baffle I realized brace c is directly behind the lower woofer.  Not sure if I should remove it or notch it out.  I was also thinking of adding a 1” brace under the wooofer to brace the baffle if I remove it.  Dunno if that will affect the sound or not.

[Peter J]

I've never built these, but was curious so looked at plans on Danny's site. It doesn't show a "brace C". Is that unique to front port?

I assume the line itself (braces) would be reversed somehow. I think there are several here who have built them, though, so probably best to defer to them or Danny. Don't think it'd be wise to leave it in, should be easy to remove.

[Kristian105]

It’s in the blueprint that comes with the kit.  Danny said it wasn’t critical in the build.. but I goofed adding it.  I was originally going to rear port it and changed my mind last second without thinking.  The supplied blueprint clearly shows it in the way if you want to front port it.

I can’t wait to hear them.

[grimace]

It’s in the blueprint that comes with the kit.  Danny said it wasn’t critical in the build.. but I goofed adding it.  I was originally going to rear port it and changed my mind last second without thinking.  The supplied blueprint clearly shows it in the way if you want to front port it.

I can’t wait to hear them.

Looking good.  I love my pair.  Mine are ported in the back and I have them pretty close to the wall (8") and they sound great, especially with a servo sub.  Sometimes I will pull them out into the room if I'm doing a long listening session, but the difference is pretty minimal to me. 

So, if reworking the port to the front is causing you problems, you could probably reconsider.

[Kristian105]

I unfortunately I already glued on the other side, so I wouldn’t be able to roundover the backside of the holes.  I think loosing the brace would probably be less impactful acoustically.

[Captainhemo]

I build  a  front vented pair of these a number of years back (man, where does the time go ? ),   left out that  top brace when flip flopping the TL as well 
Youi'll love them.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=108845.0

jay

[jn316]

I build  a  front vented pair of these a number of years back (man, where does the time go ? ),   left out that  top brace when flip flopping the TL as well 
Youi'll love them.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=108845.0

jay

You've come a long way, Jay. Just skimmed that thread and you were pretty much a novice. Now, you are building cabinets for Danny! Well done.
Gary

[mlundy57]

I unfortunately I already glued on the other side, so I wouldn’t be able to roundover the backside of the holes.  I think loosing the brace would probably be less impactful acoustically.

I've done that before. You can still put the roundover on the backside. To do this you need a roundunder bit and a large baseplate on your router for stability.  I used a piece of phenolic material to make the baseplate but you can use plexiglass or even plywood. You want the baseplate large enough to be stable when the bit is all the way to one side of the driver opening or the other.

Here's a roundunder bit. Notice the bearing is on the opposite side of the bit from a roundover bit.



Mike

[Kristian105]

Wow thank you, I didn’t know those bits existed.  That’s very useful information.

[Danny Richie]

Mike beat me to it.

The radius on the back side is very important. If not then it will add a little bump and dip to the response.

[Kristian105]

My solution to the brace issue..



And the start of the crossovers.




I’m going to mount the crossover to the back wall with screws and a layer of butyl tape.

[Kristian105]

Crossovers are in and wired



Also began adding the no Rez..



I did a stupid rounding over the backs off the woofer holes on the baffles and now I have to go pickup more mdf and build a new baffle.  I’m annoyed because I made a special trip for this mdf, it’s much nicer to work with and much more consistent than the mdf at Home Depot.  Lesson learned.  Don’t rush.  If you are very tired, you probably shouldn’t be working with power tools.

[Captainhemo]

If you  can find it, get  some  Medex.
Nicer to wrrok with, more moisture resistant, and  dimensnonally stable,   less prone to edge  damage.
We use it in many of our  flat packs and builds  now

jay

[mlundy57]

If you  can find it, get  some  Medex.
Nicer to wrrok with, more moisture resistant, and  dimensnonally stable,   less prone to edge  damage.
We use it in many of our  flat packs and builds  now

jay

Jay,

Do you have to special order Medex? I've never seen it available in my area.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Jay,

Do you have to special order Medex? I've never seen it available in my area.

Mike

With certain sizes we do but   we do have a local supplier that stokcs  .75" .    With  1"  and  1.25"  we usually bring  in   a few sheets of each at a time.

jay

[Kristian105]

What is the best way to install the tweeter cups?

Thank you for the Medex suggestion, I found a supplier about an hour out from me.  Maybe I’ll pick some up for the next build.

[mlundy57]

What is the best way to install the tweeter cups?

Thank you for the Medex suggestion, I found a supplier about an hour out from me.  Maybe I’ll pick some up for the next build.

Could you add more detail to your question. The shour answer would be “with the supplied screws” but I think you might be asking something else,

Mike

[Kristian105]

How do you attach this?

[Captainhemo]

Some 5 min epoxy  will  do the job just fine.   You could even hot glue it.  Won't  fall of  with  either

jay