[dryan01uk]

Hi Team,

I've started cutting and building my X-voce and X-statik cabinets in MDF.  I'm sure my wife thinks I'm mad, but I'm having great fun .

I've got the X-Voce cabinet in dry assembly and I think it looks pretty good, as with all beginners 'mistakes were made'... And learnt from.

Anyway, I'm now tackling the X-statik.  Being in Oz, I'm using 18mm sheet for the builds, which is OK, however I'm guessing I'm going to have to 'wing it' with the rear sealed cabinet slope dimensions as 18mm isn't the same as 0.75".

How do people in a similar position solve the odd cut angle at each end of the panel?  Assume circular saw, jig saw, router are to hand but nothing more complicated than that.  Is it a matter of leaving a square end to the panel and filling the gap created with bondo and lots of sanding or is there an easier method?

Also, as an aside, is No Rez easy to cut with a circular saw to get a nice clean line or would a jig saw be better?

I'll post some pics when I have a bit of a story board to go with it.  It should be fun.  So many firsts for me on this.

D

[Toecutter]

For cutting the angle.  I would use a level as a strait edge ,clamp it to the mdf and use it as a guide for the circular saw. Set the saw blade at the angle you need and make the cut. Do some practice cuts to get the hang of it. Wood fill and bondo is ok for small things don't try and fill large mistakes if the angle is off you won't get a good bond with the glue.
3/4 is just under 19 mm so it's not real far off , I dont know how this will effect the angles.

[EdwardT]

I’m pretty sure the angles will remain the same regardless of thickness.

[E-Zee]

Cutting that angle with a circular saw is possible but not ideal and the best option with the tools you mentioned, unless you have a router bit that happens to match the chamfer angle you need, but that's probably unlikely. 

It will serve you best to experiment with some scrap pieces or with enough extra length on your actual pieces until you get an angle and cut that you are happy with.  You will definitely want to attach some type of straight edge guide to run the circular saw against. Any straight and ridgid item will help.  If you don't have good angle measuring tools you could even draw a life size representation using just the parts dimensions, and then lay your pieces on it to confirm fit of angles.  Definitely test your angle and cuts with a few scraps or with extra material on the same board until you are confident that you can cut a clean line with an angle that will work.  It often gets overlooked but a fresh blade has a tremendous effect on the resulting cut.  If your current blade is not cutting like a champion than trade it out. 

It goes along with the measure twice, cut one concept, but drawing the joints and being confident with how they interact will help also.  It's very frustrating to make the perfect cut and then realizing it was angled in wrong direction. I've been down that path more times than I should have.

Regardless of how you choose to handle, good luck with your projects. My suggestion is that however you decide to finish your cabinets cosmetically, don't do them all at same time.  Finish your X-Voce completely fist.  You will make a couple mistakes and learn a couple tricks.  After being completely done with the smaller x-voce, you'll have a couple fresh ideas and skills for finishing the x-statics.

Good luck,
Elon

ezeescrossovers.com

[dryan01uk]

Thanks for the input guys.

 It looks like keeping a straight edge (I've got a Makita guide rail I'm using) is the key and practice, practice, practice.    Measure twice, cut once, or in my case, measure twice, then measure again, then check, then measure, then cut and somehow still be a blade width short.... although this is happening a lot less now. 

I agree that the X-Voce is going to be easier to learn on than the X-Statik and that's how I'm approaching things.  For example, I'm cutting and rounding over the internal baffles as there are heaps to do, before I start playing with the main speaker front baffles.  So if I stuff-up an internal baffle, I can easily recover the situation....

As I said, great fun - every mistake teach me something.  And its great exercise - a hidden benefit.

I've also got a Bosch Advance Cut 50 nano-blade mini-chainsaw thing instead of a jig saw (I don't believe they are available in the USA) which gives much straighter cuts than a standard jig saw.  I may have a go with that for the angle, as it has an adjustable base plate.

https://www.amazon.com.au/Bosch-06033C8140-Micro-NanoBlade-AdvancedCut/dp/B07J3C3ZYF/ref=sxts_rp_s1_0?cv_ct_cx=bosch+nanoblade&dchild=1&keywords=bosch+nanoblade&pd_rd_i=B07J3C3ZYF&pd_rd_r=28e18828-3419-407b-a62e-dc38ef8438e9&pd_rd_w=2N0JS&pd_rd_wg=Q84Cn&pf_rd_p=0e33218e-afcf-45ad-9e48-d5fcd06427a5&pf_rd_r=CFNPSPT6BBQKGWBTDT4M&psc=1&qid=1630376049&sr=1-1-a032f92e-b863-4500-9015-49891d8ffe2a




I'm a long way from 'finish' conversations, but I'm looking at Duratex for the main cabinets and cherry or jarrah veneers for the baffles and bases.  Again a lot of firsts for me - Peter Rawlings XL-S videos on 'the tube' have been invaluable.

D

[Vince in TX]

Another way to get a straight edge is a flush bit on a router.   I had to do that when my cabinet guys put veneer on the wrong edges of my servo sub cabinets.   A 2x4 clamped underneath as a guide works great.   I used a similar method when I cut the no-res.

[dryan01uk]

That's great info and examples, Vince.  How well did the No-Rez cut with the router?  Did it tear much, as I'd like a 'nice clean' cut on the visible sections.

For the angle, I'm going to have multiple goes on scrap before I get the cut down pat, then run off the two sections in one hit.  This weekend I'm planning to cut the X-statik cabinet side panels and do the first sets of internal baffles.  I want to rabbet them to assist with assembly later on, so cabinet lids will be sometime after that.

Its all great fun.  Hopefully all will be done before Summer, then onto room treatments, OB subs, rears, etc etc. 

D

[Vince in TX]

That's great info and examples, Vince.  How well did the No-Rez cut with the router?  Did it tear much, as I'd like a 'nice clean' cut on the visible sections.

For the angle, I'm going to have multiple goes on scrap before I get the cut down pat, then run off the two sections in one hit.  This weekend I'm planning to cut the X-statik cabinet side panels and do the first sets of internal baffles.  I want to rabbet them to assist with assembly later on, so cabinet lids will be sometime after that.

Its all great fun.  Hopefully all will be done before Summer, then onto room treatments, OB subs, rears, etc etc. 

D

I didn't use the router for the no-res.   I used a sharp utility knife.   I personally wouldn't use wood-working tools on no-res - it isn't dense enough (plus, there's adhesive, which could gum things up).   When my utility blade was sharp, it cut smoothly.   When it was dull, I had to make more than one pass with the knife, which caused unevenness.  A box cutter might have been better.   Either that or standard razor blades.   So what I did was use the finished edge of the no-res on the front of the cabinets, then I used the inner strips on the back where it wasn't visible.

[rstewartnyc]

Everything is looking great! I can't wait to start the process myself.

[dryan01uk]

Don't they look incredible.  I've been following Vince's builds for a while.  They are a real inspiration.

I'm still at the 'learning to cut straight stage' myself, but having a great time.
 
The folks here are all very helpful, and Danny / Hobbs always seem to be ready with a quick reply when you need it, so don't worry about asking questions or sharing tips from you journey.

D