[flargosa]

I’m not familiar with capacitor and resistor quality brands, looking at the crossover photo, you guys think the components are holding back the drivers?  This speaker(Monitor Audio 500 7g) is behind my Klipsch Palladium in micro detail retrieval.  Hoping a capacitor and resistor upgrade would up the speaker closer to the Palladiums.  I’m thinking of replacing the capacitors with Sonicaps and mills resistors of the same value, and solder the replacement components back in the original board.  I may replace and solder the speaker wires to the driver as well.  I have done a few DIY amps, but have never modified a crossover before. Is it realistic to expect a noticeable bump in detail retrieval?

[Tyson]

I’m not familiar with capacitor and resistor quality brands, looking at the crossover photo, you guys think the components are holding back the drivers?  This speaker(Monitor Audio 500 7g) is behind my Klipsch Palladium in micro detail retrieval.  Hoping a capacitor and resistor upgrade would up the speaker closer to the Palladiums.  I’m thinking of replacing the capacitors with Sonicaps and mills resistors of the same value, and solder the replacement components back in the original board.  I may replace and solder the speaker wires to the driver as well.  I have done a few DIY amps, but have never modified a crossover before. Is it realistic to expect a noticeable bump in detail retrieval?

Oh yeah.  Think of it this way - higher quality parts will interfere with the signal less, low quality parts will interfere with the signal more (in the form of hash, grain and loss of resolution/details).  So upgrading parts is always a good idea, IMO. 

[I.Greyhound Fan]

I am in the process of buying parts to upgrade the Xovers  in an old pair of PSB B6 speakers with Clarity CSA caps, Mills MRA and Vishay MRA resistors.  Unfortunately, the caps will have to be mounted off board on the bottom and back wall of the speaker with silicone glue as the current caps are small Electrolytics and the Clarity caps are huge in comparison.  Not an ideal situation but space is limited.    I also bought some neotech 20awg wire and cardas solder.

I will report back on how it sounds in about 2 weeks.

I suggest reading this capacitor review as it may be helpful in picking out capacitors.

https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

[FullRangeMan]

Is it realistic to expect a noticeable bump in detail retrieval?

Not at all, unless your expectations are very low. The only way to noticeable increase detail is removing the xover and use a full range driver>
https://www.lii-audio.com/product/recommended-15-full-range-speaker-driver-for-music-loudspeaker-with-tube-amplifier-f-15-in-pair/

The use of xovers remove the music harmonics, small details and the 3D ambience that are lost as heat, as well as decrease the speakers sensitivity.
Dont fix what is not broken.

[DannyBadorine]

You can definitely improve the sound of those speakers by replacing all of those crossover parts with equal value.  Even mid-range capacitors (Clarity CSA caps, Mills Resistors and nicer foil inductors) will make an obvious difference from what is there.  Do one speaker then compare them.  Even before break in, you will hear a significant difference.

[flargosa]

Not at all, unless your expectations are very low. The only way to noticeable increase detail is removing the xover and use a full range driver>
https://www.lii-audio.com/product/recommended-15-full-range-speaker-driver-for-music-loudspeaker-with-tube-amplifier-f-15-in-pair/

The use of xovers remove the music harmonics, small details and the 3D ambience that are lost as heat, as well as decrease the speakers sensitivity.
Dont fix what is not broken.

The problem with full range is that you move the distortion from the Xover to the drivers.  Having one driver do all frequencies causes doppler distortion. Complex music with a lot of things going on can also sound a tad blurred at least that is my experience with my previous Omega speakers. 

[FullRangeMan]

The problem with full range is that you move the distortion from the Xover to the drivers.  Having one driver do all frequencies causes doppler distortion. Complex music with a lot of things going on can also sound a tad blurred at least that is my experience with my previous Omega speakers.

Seems you was using FR in hi SPL, Iam using FR since 1990s and never heard blur image, small soundstage etc I can positively recommend single point source, just good sound.
Also never heard about doppler in speakers.

[andyr]

The problem with full range is that you move the distortion from the Xover to the drivers.  Having one driver do all frequencies causes doppler distortion. Complex music with a lot of things going on can also sound a tad blurred.

You hit the nail on the head - but I would also add that so-called "full-range" drivers are anything but that!  So, yes, you get a great mid-range but low bass and high treble ... are lacking.

Also never heard about doppler in speakers.

Perhaps you've heard it referred to as 'IMD' (inter-modulation distortion)?

Andy

[FullRangeMan]

Perhaps you've heard it referred to as 'IMD' (inter-modulation distortion)?

Try use pro-audio full range drivers that are hi SPL capable.

[andyr]

Not at all, unless your expectations are very low. The only way to noticeable increase detail is removing the xover and use a full range driver>

The use of xovers remove the music harmonics, small details and the 3D ambience that are lost as heat, as well as decrease the speakers sensitivity.
Dont fix what is not broken.

Then again ... some of us want to listen to "full range" music.   

There is no so-called "full range" - ie. single - driver that can faithfully deliver 20-20kHz.

A second way your approach falls down is the issue of IMD; if a single driver is producing LFs ... then its delivery of HFs will be compromised.

Andy

[FullRangeMan]

Then again ... some of us want to listen to "full range" music.   

There is no so-called "full range" - ie. single - driver that can faithfully deliver 20-20kHz.

A second way your approach falls down is the issue of IMD; if a single driver is producing LFs ... then its delivery of HFs will be compromised.

Andy

Then again ... some of us want to listen to "full range" music.   
And who would be these people your great-grandchildren ?
Iam about 60 years old and my ears barely reach 15kHz, so as you registered in 2003 with 73 I suppose you now have 92 !  What would give you poor listening capabilities so low as 8kHz or 10kHz.

There is no so-called "full range" - ie. single - driver that can faithfully deliver 20-20kHz.
There is various FR drivers that reach 20kHz or more as AER, Voxativ, Feastrex, Mark Audio etc... you dont know them because they are not from your country.

[mick wolfe]

To get back to the OP's original question. We're talking about two speakers that have been voiced with different priorities in mind. I suspect the Monitor Audio to be a bit more laid back in presentation while the Klipsch more upfront with a greater "jump factor".  I'm also "guessing" the Klipsch is more efficient and an easier drive for an amplifier. You can try a xover "upgrade", but the core complexity of that xover might be more the obstacle than the parts themselves. I have four pairs of speakers in house. This would include Klipsch Heresy 3's. Although they're all different in their presentation, I've learned to enjoy all of them. The one stick in the mud here is that each prefers a given amplifier. Fortunately, I have four of them as well.

[timind]

Yes, back to the OP's question. Swapping in higher quality/priced parts will likely change the sound of the speaker. Will it sound better? That's the important question. From my experience the answer is, not always. If you spend a few hundred, let's hope so.

[Early B.]

The first thing you gotta decide is -- is a crossover upgrade worth doing vs. swapping out speakers?

That Monitor crossover has cheesy parts, all of which need to be switched out and a "new" crossover built using the same values. If you paid the retail price for those speakers, the best option is to send one of the speakers to Danny at GR Research and have him re-design the crossover. They can even rebuild them with better parts and send completed crossovers if you don't want to do it yourself.  If you bought the Monitor speakers used, I'd suggest selling them and buying better ones.

ALWAYS know what you're buying. If you can't find a pic of the crossover to ascertain parts quality, then don't buy the speaker. Same is true for audio components -- you wanna see the guts spread wide open.

[S Clark]

Tyson is right that the parts are pretty low quality, but replacing all of them is going to cost a fortune.  I'd start with the caps and resistors in the tweeter circuit and see what you think.  If you think it's worth the time and $, then replace everything in the midrange circuit, and the smaller coil (no iron cores) in the woofer circuit. 

And FullRangeMan hates crossovers of any kind, so judge accordingly. 

Oh, and yes, you can definitely get a bump in clarity. 

[Cheytak.408]

I’m not familiar with capacitor and resistor quality brands, looking at the crossover photo, you guys think the components are holding back the drivers?  This speaker(Monitor Audio 500 7g) is behind my Klipsch Palladium in micro detail retrieval.  Hoping a capacitor and resistor upgrade would up the speaker closer to the Palladiums.  I’m thinking of replacing the capacitors with Sonicaps and mills resistors of the same value, and solder the replacement components back in the original board.  I may replace and solder the speaker wires to the driver as well.  I have done a few DIY amps, but have never modified a crossover before. Is it realistic to expect a noticeable bump in detail retrieval?

The yellow capacitors appear to be Rebranded Bennie mylar caps that they make for everyone.  Mylar (MET) capacitors are usually found to have 100v - 150v markings.  The MPT code indicates polyester, which could be any film EXCEPT polypropylene.  Replacing them along with the ceramic boat resistors will be a definite step up.  Just remember that 250v - 630v PP caps are going to be much larger.

Replacing inductors is a whole different animal.  Replacing small gauge iron core inductors with even larger gauge laminated steel inductors of the same value would be a logistical challenge as well as a financial one.  Air core?  Fuggidaboudit!

[Mitsuman]

Tyson is right that the parts are pretty low quality, but replacing all of them is going to cost a fortune.  I'd start with the caps and resistors in the tweeter circuit and see what you think.  If you think it's worth the time and $, then replace everything in the midrange circuit, and the smaller coil (no iron cores) in the woofer circuit. 

And FullRangeMan hates crossovers of any kind, so judge accordingly. 

Oh, and yes, you can definitely get a bump in clarity.

Quoted for truth!

[Early B.]

Tyson is right that the parts are pretty low quality, but replacing all of them is going to cost a fortune.   

I was being nice with my comments, so let me say what I really wanted to -- those speakers aren't worth upgrading. Sell them and buy or build some better speakers. They're another example in a long line of pricey ($3,200) speakers with $10 worth of crossover parts.

[S Clark]

I was being nice with my comments, so let me say what I really wanted to -- those speakers aren't worth upgrading. Sell them and buy or build some better speakers. They're another example in a long line of pricey ($3,200) speakers with $10 worth of crossover parts.

I haven't heard them so I couldn't say about their current sound or their potential.  And we all know that if you can glue some MDF together and solder a crossover, there are much better values to be had.
But, he has them on hand.  Sonicaps aren't audiophile stupid expensive, so for ~$100 he can see if he can improve the high end.  If not, dump them. 

[duck851]

…This speaker(Monitor Audio 500 7g) is behind my Klipsch Palladium in micro detail retrieval.  Hoping a capacitor and resistor upgrade would up the speaker closer to the Palladiums.  …

Before doing something as drastic as that to a $3,200 pair of what must be fairly new speakers, I would play with toe in, tilt back, bi-wiring and just plain break-in and acclimation.  Are you using the same amp and wires as on the Klipsch?  Do you have other cables and/or amps to try to look for synergy?  I think that modding these would deepen your financial losses if they still didn’t satisfy and you sold them. 

Whatever you do, I hope it works out for the best for you