[GaryPC]

I have an X-Voce going in within 6-9” of ear height so won’t be concerned about tilting it, but if I were I would not build it into the cabinet as a few years later who knows my layout may change. Except perhaps to drop a couple of t-nuts in the bottom front corners of the open baffle area so I could thread 3/8” bolts to create the lift. And I would probably add that only if and when I needed it.
I’ve just cut my own MDF and am doing the same for the Sub Kit #4 this weekend. I cut the X-Voce per the plans which I think are good and they do stack up nicely for clamping. But I will be adding a bunch of biscuits.  For the sub I am cutting a bunch of 1/4” rabbets, which are faster easier stronger and more accurate than biscuits, so if I were doing the X-Voce again I would do rabbets.

[dryan01uk]

That’s exactly what I’m doing with mine, tilting it up so that it not only hits my ear level, but the ear level of the back row which is on a 12” riser.

Thanks Vince.  That's an awesome home cinema build taking place.  Love the servo subs all ready to go, as well.

What rears do you have, as a matter of interest?

@GaryPC - I'd prefer the rabbet / dado route as well.  For the X-Voce I'm not a fan of the inset front baffle MDF piece on the CNC kit and would prefer, a bit like what Vince has, a single piece front baffle that I can do in 25mm MDF with a veneer.  I was thinking to cut dado rails into the back of the baffle panel to help with strength and alignment.

Anyway, still blue-skying the design in my head - I sure there will be more brain f*arts in the weeks and months to come. 

D

[GaryPC]

I would also rabbet the front baffle and probably every joint as it provides a solid edge to align during clamping.  I just noticed the tweeter treatment in Vince’s very nice setup. I’ve already routed the tweeter regress 0.18” and I thought the reason for it was to align or better-align the the tweeter with mid range units. I assumed it was something to do with time alignment.  I’ll have to go back and do some more reading and YouTube watching to understand what is happening here 

[Vince in TX]

....

What rears do you have, as a matter of interest?

...

Temporarily I’m using the Klipsch speakers I was using for surrounds in my game room, but I have four A/V-1RS speakers on order from Danny.   I’m hoping they get here Within the next couple of weeks because I should be done with the servo subs by then.   

[dryan01uk]

Thanks for the info, Vince.

I also got notification from UPS that my X-Voce and X-statik kits are about to ship.

Another step on the journey.

D

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Yup! Only reason it didnt get out sooner was cuz we ran out of Miflex caps earlier this week until Danny could get more from SonicCraft
It should be picked up on Tuesday. Since UPS isnt taking deliveries tomorrow.

[dryan01uk]

Thanks for the info Hobbs.  I'm very excited to see what's in the boxes... Lots of 'firsts' on this... First time I've ever built a speaker, let alone one of this standard.  Also first OB of any type I've ever owned.

Happy 4th July and all that too all our US cousins.  Enjoy the public holiday on Monday.

D

[dryan01uk]

Ah, more questions.  Hopefully someone in this illustrious crowd can provide this beginner with some insights?

I've been working through planning out my X-Voce build.  The drawings provided, reference internal braces, but don't show where they should be installed. 

As I'm planning to use 18mm MDF for the cabinet, which is slightly thinner than the 0.75" recommended (~1mm thinner), I think the braces are going to be 'necessary', not 'recommended'.





Can anyone provide some guidance on where they should be installed?

I'm also assuming that I can easily access the X/O from the woofer hole, so don't need to make any arrangements to make the X/O easily accessible - like making the tube-connector rear wall removable?

David

[hawkeyejw]

1 MM is pretty small, I think you would be fine either way. There aren’t any big wide surfaces on the boxes really. Are you using no-Rez?

[dryan01uk]

Thanks hawkeyejw.  Yep.  Upgraded crossovers and no-rez has been included in the order.  Expected sometime next week - less than 2 weeks for 80+lbs from USA to Oz is pretty incredible.

Also, is there any benefit is coating the inside of the cabinet with duratex?  I'm hoping to do the front baffle and box rears in veneer and the rest in duratex, trying to achieve a smooth but hard wearing coat, so will be using a high napp roller and avoid some of the textured stuff.

Got to make the X-statiks and this pretty for the her in doors.

Should be fun.

D

[Hobbsmeerkat]

The only benefit to coating the inside surfaces is to prevent issues if you live in a regularly humid environment.
That said, the texture from duratex will make it difficult for the No Rez to properly stick to the inside surfaces.

A better option would be Zinner "Seal Coat" (dewaxed shellac) or some other oil or alcohol based sealant.

[dryan01uk]

Yah!  Christmas in July - some boxes arrived from UPS today.  All full of bits and pieces for my X-Voce and X-Statiks.  The boxes at the back are full of no-rez - I was surprised how heavy it is!

Fantastic packaging from Danny and co.






I've tried rotating the image, but it seems to be 'stuck' sideways.  It also looks like I 'scored' an original X-Voce X-O, so am going to need some hand-holding to update the board with the latest cross-over upgrades.  That's a long way away though.  Next step, pulling together all bits and pieces I need to get started.

These, along with a kitchen renovation, should keep me busy until the real Xmas!

D

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Yeah, we still have a bunch of original X-Voce crossovers
Hence why the kit is still so cheap.