[Peter J]

Peter,

I like the the screw-in insert with socket cap machine screw. Did you use EZ Knife threaded stainless inserts for hardwood?   

Thank you for your detailed posts, I am taking notes as I await my flat pack for the Studio Monitors.

John

These inserts:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90016A005/
The threads on inserts tend to hump up MDF as they displace material as they screw in. It's the nature of the beast. I hit humps with flat file and that's what you're seeing in first photo.

Next go I'm going to try these:
https://www.mcmaster.com/97191A130/
I intend to misuse by dabbing a little epoxy on them and gluing in place. Hopefully eliminating the humping. Hmmm, that sounds kinda weird...

These are screws and washers:
https://www.mcmaster.com/91864A081/
https://www.mcmaster.com/98029A024/

[Fltguy]

I like the idea of the press-fit inserts in combination with epoxy.

[Digi-G]

Peter, just curious if you're considering the same inserts and machine screws for the woofers as well.

[Peter J]

Peter, just curious if you're considering the same inserts and machine screws for the woofers as well.

Nope, but I guess one could. I have threaded MDF and then dropped on a bit of super glue to consolidate MDF. Not fill hole, but just soak wood fibers. This was for aesthetics because I wanted to use button head machine screw with socket heads.

 My reasoning on the tweeter has to do with supplied tapping screws. Their threaded diameter is close to the slot width in tweeter frame, so it tends to jack frame when inserting. This way also makes it easier to insert screw after assembly without risk of stripping hole.

The last one I did, I posted here about modifying the mounting slots on tweeter, which borders on hackery, at least for me. This is a more elegant solution, which gives me a warm fuzzy.

[Captainhemo]

Lookin' good, Peter.

My Studio Monitors are coming along much slower than I had anticipated.  Part of the reason is I'm working in my unheated garage (save for a kerosene heater) and until recently, had pretty cold temps.

I'm curious why most tweeters I've seen for these are mounted with the connectors at the top.  Is that the only way the tweeter fits?

I like the threaded inserts, btw!

The tweeter  will fit either way,  I'm  guessing most are installing it with terminals at the top  so they can access them with an iron.
I had not intended that....    I had always imagined  folks would leave enough  slack in the tweeter  leads that they could pull them up through  the  pass through  after putting it where they want it,  then dooing the soldering.  After that,  simply push the  wiring back down into the cabint  and secure the tweeter.  I'd then dab  a touch of silicon over the   pass through hole to seal it up.....

The  first few  pairs of the next  run will be   going  out  very  soon

jay

[indiehouse]

Couple of questions for you guys:

1) Does Danny decrease the price of the Studio kit if the front baffle is no longer needed from his kit?

2) Does this pack have the recessed top so that the OB grill sits flush with the sides, front and back? Or does it sit above it?

[Captainhemo]

The grill frames  sit inside the  top of the cabinet.
I believe Danny did adjust the price of the kit

jay

[Captainhemo]

Ok,  aside from  2   people not  replying to emails,  we've cleared out the  queue  / list  on these.  If we happened to have missed you  somehow, please let us know

captainhemo at shaw.ca

Still a number of kits left  from this run, pricing is the same     as on page  1 1st post,  $379  &$65  shipping 

jay

[indiehouse]

What is the dimension of the side panels? Looking to order some veneer and need to know how much to get.

[Captainhemo]

18"H x 16"  wide is a safe  number  for  each side panel..... the rear panel   would be safe to go with   18"  x  9"


jay

[indiehouse]

Are people veneering the backs of these?

[Sonicjoy]

I didn't, but you can do whatever you want. I just painted the backs black. I veneered the side panels before assembly. The back will have to be done after the boxes are put together.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

I veneered the backs of mine.

[Sonicjoy]

Nice Hobbs! How much longer before they are finished? Can't wait to see them and hear what you think.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Well this cabinet still needs some touchups and a seal coat, then both need a few layers of clear lacquer. So ~90% done?
Then after that, Im still awaiting the kit from Danny, then I gotta order my own inductors & resistors and put it all together.

I'm excited to get this kit wrapped up, & hopefully soon!

[indiehouse]

I didn't, but you can do whatever you want. I just painted the backs black. I veneered the side panels before assembly. The back will have to be done after the boxes are put together.

That's what I was initially planning as well. I was going to order some veneer from Home Depot. Seems to be rated pretty good. There would be enough left over to do the backs. As far as where the edges meet, what's the best way to give this a finished look, seeing as how the sides will be veneered before the back?

[Captainhemo]

That's what I was initially planning as well. I was going to order some veneer from Home Depot. Seems to be rated pretty good. There would be enough left over to do the backs. As far as where the edges meet, what's the best way to give this a finished look, seeing as how the sides will be veneered before the back?

When working with veneer, I always use a very sharp plane blade laid  flat against the surface being trimmed  up to.  Cut the  veneer needing  trimming using a  downward   ( away from trimmed surface) stroke so not to  splinter  the edge of the veneer. Youi'll end up with a  perfect trimmed edge.... just be sure to kep that plane blade flat  against the   surface being used as a  "guide".

Other options  would be a  laminate trimmer  fited witha  down cutting   flush trim bit  and  some  thin  masking tape / painters tape for the   bearing to ride on.

There are also veneer trimmers  that work very similar to   the plane blade  but   I just prefer the   bare blade.
I'd have a look here for  veneer  if not wanting a full sheet....
https://www.veneersupplies.com/

jay

[indiehouse]

Dag. That's over double what Home Depot's charging once you figure shipping and taxes. I'm sure it's probably a bit better. Hmmm....

[honfatboy]

When working with veneer, I always use a very sharp plane blade laid  flat against the surface being trimmed  up to.  Cut the  veneer needing  trimming using a  downward   ( away from trimmed surface) stroke so not to  splinter  the edge of the veneer. Youi'll end up with a  perfect trimmed edge.... just be sure to kep that plane blade flat  against the   surface being used as a  "guide".

Other options  would be a  laminate trimmer  fited witha  down cutting   flush trim bit  and  some  thin  masking tape / painters tape for the   bearing to ride on.

There are also veneer trimmers  that work very similar to   the plane blade  but   I just prefer the   bare blade.
I'd have a look here for  veneer  if not wanting a full sheet....

Great directions! Thanks.
https://www.veneersupplies.com/

jay

[Fltguy]

Peter,

I took your advice and installed these press-fit inserts from McMaster-Carr. These are zinc-plated steel inserts, 4-40 thread size, were originally designed for soft metal.

Using a 7/32" drill bit, I drilled a 7/16" deep hole. Some epoxy and gentle coercion I got eight of these installed without a volcano.