Sonicjoy's NX Studio build. With photos.

indiehouse · « **Reply #280 on:** 16 Mar 2021, 06:54 pm »

Quote from: Sonicjoy on 16 Mar 2021, 02:16 pm

You can still do it with the flat pack, just have to be careful. Leave the veneer wider than the panel. Once glue is dry turn face down on a scrape of flat smooth plywood and carefully trim against the panel with a very sharp razor knife. Then using a sanding block sand flush.

I bought my veneer on ebay.

If I may, I'd like to ask a couple more questions of you to get me started. You used paperbacked cherry veneer and you only applied a clear coat finish, no stain?

What MDF sealer did you use, and did you apply that to every MDF surface, including the inside? How many coats?

Finally, you left one side off initially to allow for fitting the norez and installing tube connectors. Would it be easier to seal the mdf on the inside at this stage? And apply the norez as well?

JWCoffman · « **Reply #281 on:** 16 Mar 2021, 10:05 pm »

Quote from: indiehouse on 16 Mar 2021, 06:54 pm

What MDF sealer did you use, and did you apply that to every MDF surface, including the inside? How many coats?

No need to seal the MDF unless you plan on leaving it raw (no paint or veneer), painting, or using the speaker for flotation (not recommended and may void the warranty). Interior does not need to be sealed.

Hobbsmeerkat · « **Reply #282 on:** 16 Mar 2021, 10:13 pm »

Depends on where you live. In a more humid environment, its not a bad idea to seal the internals with something like dewaxed shellac, lacquer or other equivalent sealant.

In regularly dry environments it's less likely to be an issue.

JWCoffman · « **Reply #283 on:** 16 Mar 2021, 10:16 pm »

Quote from: Hobbsmeerkat on 16 Mar 2021, 10:13 pm

Depends on where you live. In a more humid environment, its not a bad idea to seal the internals with something like dewaxed shellac, lacquer or other equivalent sealant.

In regularly dry environments it's less likely to be an issue.

Good point, it's been decades since I lived in a humid environment, so it's not something I think about often anymore.

Sonicjoy · « **Reply #284 on:** 17 Mar 2021, 12:51 am »

I used Minwax wood sealer. I feel it's a good idea to seal the interior. Sealing both sides of wood panels helps prevent warping. I'm a finish carpenter and cabinet builder by trade and always seal both sides of panels. It's not hard and just takes a few minutes so why not. Also sealer penetrates the wood and hardens it a little. It can also be used on the veneer before staining to get a more even look, but you should always test on some scrap pieces first.

I sealed everything but the veneer.

The finish I used was Minwax "Wipe on Polly" clear satin. Very easy to use, drys fast and looks great. I believe I applied 5 coats.

indiehouse · « **Reply #285 on:** 17 Mar 2021, 02:49 pm »

Quote from: Sonicjoy on 17 Mar 2021, 12:51 am

I used Minwax wood sealer. I feel it's a good idea to seal the interior. Sealing both sides of wood panels helps prevent warping. I'm a finish carpenter and cabinet builder by trade and always seal both sides of panels. It's not hard and just takes a few minutes so why not. Also sealer penetrates the wood and hardens it a little. It can also be used on the veneer before staining to get a more even look, but you should always test on some scrap pieces first.

I sealed everything but the veneer.

The finish I used was Minwax "Wipe on Polly" clear satin. Very easy to use, drys fast and looks great. I believe I applied 5 coats.

Thanks for the advice! Do you feel it's better to seal the MDF before assembly or after? Same with the norez. Seems like it'd be easier to both seal the MDF and apply the norez with one of the sides open. Is there a drawback to this that I'm not thinking of?

Hobbsmeerkat · « **Reply #286 on:** 17 Mar 2021, 02:56 pm »

It's best to seal it already assembled.

If you decide to glue it up, except for one side, i recommend assembling everything together, including the side you dont want glued, that way once sealing & Norez installation is complete, just so everything is alligned properly. I did mine all at once, and just sealed it afterwards.

Sonicjoy · « **Reply #287 on:** 17 Mar 2021, 03:21 pm »

Yes after its glued up. Glue works best on bare wood. I like Tight Bond wood glue any flavor, though my fav is Tight Bond 3.

gringo117 · « **Reply #288 on:** 22 Apr 2021, 06:33 pm »

@ Sonicjoy
Thanks for the sharing of the build process. I am taking notes.

There is however one thing in regards to the gluing in particular clamping the pieces together. In one of your pictures there are 2 clamps that I cannot find the reason for them to be there. A grey clamp and the other is yellow (with a piece of wood not sure what purposes it has there).
Would you please explain that bit in more detail?
Thank you

Sonicjoy · « **Reply #289 on:** 23 Apr 2021, 12:38 am »

Sure. The gray clamp on the left that you marked is just holding the whole assembly to the table, so it doesn't move. The one on the right is clamping the angled top plate down. You always want all mating joints to be clamped together thats why so many clamps as I was gluing up several parts at once. Hope that clears things up.

Good luck and have fun!

gringo117 · « **Reply #290 on:** 23 Apr 2021, 07:00 am »

About the yellow clamp: That is what I thought also for the first time, that it had to be the angled top plate, but then: in this picture and also the other picture where the back is also glued on, the angled plate is not angled, but 90 degrees to the front baffle and also it is above the tweeter and not between the woofer and tweeter. So is it there just to have the front baffle exactly at 90 degrees to the side wall (that is on the bottom)? As a support and not glued, just fixed with the clamp?
I am not a woodworker nor is it my profession working with wood, it is just I want to get it right and for that there is one chance to get it right. So the saying "measure twice, cut once" applies for me very much, even if in this case "measure twice, glue once".

Sonicjoy · « **Reply #291 on:** 23 Apr 2021, 01:35 pm »

You are correct. It's been awhile since I built these. Had to study the photo to jog the memory. Yes that is a temporary brace to keep the side and front square while the glue sets up.

delnia19 · « **Reply #292 on:** 19 May 2021, 04:57 pm »

Quote from: Hobbsmeerkat on 16 Mar 2021, 03:06 pm

I did my NX studio with raw quilted maple veneer on the sides and back.
It would have been better for me to get paper backed veneer, esp since I didnt have any experience with the process.
It will be much easier to work with.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to go with heat lock glue, and will make the veneering process easier after the cabinet it assembled, then trim it down with a router flush bit.

Peter's XLS veneer video us a great place to start, esp if you want to veneer the front & back as well as the sides.
https://youtu.be/pb5KiJmIWII

Great video. Very informative. Must watch for anyone doing veneering for the first time.

Tomy2Tone · « **Reply #293 on:** 12 Jun 2021, 01:35 am »

Hi Sonicjoy, and anyone who could verify for me.

The wiring for the crossover layout below.

The upper left is for positive input.
The upper right is for tweeter negative
Lower left is woofer positive.
Lower right is negative input/ woofer negative/ tweeter positive

Hobbsmeerkat · « **Reply #294 on:** 12 Jun 2021, 01:41 am »

Quote from: Tomy2Tone on 12 Jun 2021, 01:35 am

Hi Sonicjoy, and anyone who could verify for me.

The wiring for the crossover layout below.

The upper left is for positive input.
The upper right is for tweeter negative
Lower left is woofer positive.
Lower right is negative input/ woofer negative/ tweeter positive

That is correct!

Tomy2Tone · « **Reply #295 on:** 12 Jun 2021, 01:46 am »

Quote from: Hobbsmeerkat on 12 Jun 2021, 01:41 am

That is correct!

Thank you!

Sonicjoy · « **Reply #296 on:** 12 Jun 2021, 02:12 am »

Thanks Hobbs, you beat me to it. I also posted this in the sticky thread "Crossover Assembly 101" on page 10. Maybe some more info there.

nadirmg · « **Reply #297 on:** 25 Dec 2021, 11:23 pm »

Quote from: Sonicjoy on 10 Mar 2020, 12:52 am

Adding the poly fill as per the instructions.

Grill frame installed. I decided to round over the top opening of the frame.
That was not in the instructions but seemed like a good idea as you don't want sharp edges near drivers inside or out of the speakers.

Were/Are there instructions that come with the NX Studio? I'm reading through all the NX Studio builds that I can. Because I don't see any instructions except for the crossover electronic diagram.

If anyone can point me to directions, I would really appreciate it. I'm beginning my first build and want to make sure I get it right. For example, going through this thread, I've realized I need to do a fit with my no-rez before I assemble the cabinets.

Thanks!

Sonicjoy · « **Reply #298 on:** 26 Dec 2021, 06:11 am »

Hi nadirmg. The instructions come with the parts kit when you buy it. I don't know for sure but they may be on Danny's web site. Good luck and have fun! Wonderful loudspeakers!

nadirmg · « **Reply #299 on:** 26 Dec 2021, 02:02 pm »

Quote from: Sonicjoy on 26 Dec 2021, 06:11 am

Hi nadirmg. The instructions come with the parts kit when you buy it. I don't know for sure but they may be on Danny's web site. Good luck and have fun! Wonderful loudspeakers!

Ok, that's a relief... I was beginning to feel like I had gotten in over my head if I was to do this with only a crossover diagram!

Thanks man.