[Bmarshall]

Should the line be flat? I changed to a weighting, and it rolls off like this. If I don't use a weighting, the line is basically flat.

[Bmarshall]

like this?

[Tyson]

I use the "Flat" option but C-weighted works too.

Looking at your C-weighted graphs, you have strong response down to 40hz in room.  So your crossover seems fine.

I think that dip centered around 80hz is what's causing the perceived lack of bass.  These types of dips and peaks are very room dependent, and they are ALWAYS present with box speakers.  It's just a question of where is the peak/dip and how bad.  For example, in my room I have the opposite problem - too much bass in the 70-80hz area. 

Try this - put pink noise through your speakers again, and then get up and slowly walk around the room with the FFT program running on you phone/ipod.  Do the bass peaks/dips change?  You'll probably see that they will.  You could move your listening chair forward or backward in the room if you see it fills in at a different location.

The 2nd thing to do - move the speakers closer to the wall, see what that does.  And also move the speakers further into the room.  See what that does.

As a last resort, you can use an EQ to boost the 80hz region.  But only do that if you have a fairly powerful amp, as that will tend to eat up watts. 

Also, bass traps can (counterintuitively) help with nulls because they absorb the reinforced bass signal that is causing the cancellation effect.  GIK here on AC has some great products for bass traps.  But they are big. 

[Bmarshall]

If the reading looks ok to you, then I'm cool. i think it's just going to require the usual tweaking and moving them around until I get the sweet spot - just like getting a new pair of speakers! (as well as adding stuffing.) I spent ages getting the right position for the Forte's when I got them, so it's probably the same now.

It's odd, but I think on day one, we may have had a  bad power day - they are pretty common here in Dubai. It just sounded cr*p, I've noticed this happening several times over the years.

Then yesterday and today, they sounded pretty good. Could be a bad power day, or burn in process.

100% they are clearer, tighter and more detailed so pretty sure the electronics are correct. Will play around a bit and report back when evs.

[Danny Richie]

You are measuring one speaker at a time aren't you?

[Bmarshall]

Nope, both at same time at listening position...

[Danny Richie]

Nope, both at same time at listening position...

Ugh!

You can't get any real data on the room response measuring both of them at the same time. That will cause peaks and dips from the differential time arrivals of the two sources.

You have to measure them one at a time to get meaningful data.

Start over and do them one at a time.

This will also let you find and fix each issue in the room to help get a balanced response.

[Bmarshall]

I'm just using my ear holes to measure. They sound great. Fine tuned their position and happy with them now.

[Roy Boy]

Cutting the braces.  We did it differently than I thought we would.  My idea was just to get some oak dowels and glue them lenghthwise and crosswise, flat against each interior panel.  But Danny explained that while it would make the cabinet stiffer, it would also eat up airspace.  A better way for our purposes is to cut small diagonal braces and make triangle braces at key locations.  I also would have put the braces closer to the middle but Danny showed me that putting them at the 1/3rd point instead of the 1/2 point actually does a better job reducing resonance and increasing cabinet stiffness. 

Cutting the braces:




Started adding the braces:




Braces are all in and Norez installed too:

So I have a pair of Chorus II that I am looking into doing similar upgrades (getting Danny to design a crossover)..One question on cabinet bracing. How did you determine that you needed to do both cabinet bracing and no-Rez? I was watching Dannie's talk on cabinet resonance and he did not really address doing both. I am trying to determine for my Chorus II if I should do both or just the No-Rez. Thanks

[WGH]

Braces are always good but NEVER, EVER use the method in the photo to cut braces. This is beyond dangerous, one tiny misstep and the brace can get jammed between the blade and the fence and kick back as fast as a bullet with surprising force, usually pulling your hand into the blade.

I have been woodworking professionally for 50 years and still have all 10 fingers but all my woodworker friends have had major injuries, some losing body parts doing stupid stuff just like this.

[Woodsage]

 

Braces are always good but NEVER, EVER use the method in the photo to cut braces. This is beyond dangerous, one tiny misstep and the brace can get jammed between the blade and the fence and kick back as fast as a bullet with surprising force, usually pulling your hand into the blade.

I have been woodworking professionally for 50 years and still have all 10 fingers but all my woodworker friends have had major injuries, some losing body parts doing stupid stuff just like this.

I was lucky enough to be able to retire early after only 40 years in the furniture manufacturing business. Seemed more like 40 dog years though... I saw my share of gruesome accidents one which was fatal.

I thought the exact same thing when I saw his but I bit my tongue. Extremely dangerous and made more ironic by having the crosscut guide in the picture.

BTW, I still have all 10 digits too..... makes holding my whiskey glass much easier.

[jtwrace]

Braces are always good but NEVER, EVER use the method in the photo to cut braces. This is beyond dangerous, one tiny misstep and the brace can get jammed between the blade and the fence and kick back as fast as a bullet with surprising force, usually pulling your hand into the blade.

I have been woodworking professionally for 50 years and still have all 10 fingers but all my woodworker friends have had major injuries, some losing body parts doing stupid stuff just like this.

Totally agree.  Whoever this is clearly has no clue what they're doing and what a table-saw is capable of.   

[Danny Richie]

Thanks for your concern guys.

The reason that the guard is off of the blade is because (and you can't tell in the picture) the blade is laid over at a 45 degree angle.

And the pieces being cut were 3/4" square. So they don't make it to the back of the blade where they can be thrown. And the piece that I am holding doesn't go far before being pulled back.

And with the blade laid over at an an extreme angle the small piece being cut off can't be thrown up because the angle of the blade traps it between the table and the blade.

Normally I would push things through using the crosscut guide, but in this case the pieces were too small.

It's not as bad as it looks.

[WGH]

I agree with everything you wrote but a newbie will see this photo and assume they can do the same thing with the blade at 90 degrees.

With small pieces like this I square cut them to length with a radial arm saw and then sand the 45 degree bevel using a Powermatic 12" disk sander with a crosscut guide. 100% safe along with less stress although there is more sawdust and takes longer but that is OK with me. I hate power tool surprises.

[Danny Richie]

I agree with everything you wrote but a newbie will see this photo and assume they can do the same thing with the blade at 90 degrees.

With small pieces like this I square cut them to length with a radial arm saw and then sand the 45 degree bevel using a Powermatic 12" disk sander with a crosscut guide. 100% safe along with less stress although there is more sawdust and takes longer but that is OK with me. I hate power tool surprises.

I agree. I don't advocate this approach. It may be fast and easy for me, but certainly not the safest, and I don't recommend it. 

[Roy Boy]

I agree. I don't advocate this approach. It may be fast and easy for me, but certainly not the safest, and I don't recommend it.

Danny,
  So on a speaker like the Klipsch Chorus II would you suggest both bracing and noRes? Thanks

[Paopawdecarabao]

What is the length of the braces. Does Home Depot or Lowe’s cut them to spec?

[Danny Richie]

Danny,
  So on a speaker like the Klipsch Chorus II would you suggest both bracing and noRes? Thanks

Yes, for an un-braced speaker cabinet that large I do recommend both.

[Woodsage]

Thanks for your concern guys.

The reason that the guard is off of the blade is because (and you can't tell in the picture) the blade is laid over at a 45 degree angle.

And the pieces being cut were 3/4" square. So they don't make it to the back of the blade where they can be thrown. And the piece that I am holding doesn't go far before being pulled back.

And with the blade laid over at an an extreme angle the small piece being cut off can't be thrown up because the angle of the blade traps it between the table and the blade.

Normally I would push things through using the crosscut guide, but in this case the pieces were too small.

It's not as bad as it looks.

Forty years in the business and no table saw I worked on had blade guards. Most professionals that use table saws consider blade guards both cumbersome and dangerous.

Three basic rules that will keep your fingers attached in order of importance. Don’t put your hands behind the blade. Use a push stick when ripping very narrow pieces (but don’t get carried away). Don’t cross cut narrow pieces using the rip  fence.

The fourth rule is really important! If you’re  doing an operation and thinking to yourself that you probably shouldn’t be doing it that way, stop!

YMMV of course.

[WGH]

The fifth rule is "If You Drink, Don't Drill"