AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: nadirmg on 15 Jan 2022, 07:19 pm
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My dudes --
I'm really excited to finally start my own build thread. My first thread was about asking which components would go well with my NX-Studios. Well, I've got it all purchased and delivered. The last things I need to really decide on is:
- Speaker stands for the NX-Studios
- An equipment rack for the components
- Cording for connecting all my components
- Sound treating my room
This week I glued my two speaker cabinets together! Finished and it feels really exciting to see them both standing next to each other. I've got the NoRez cut out too. My main open items for the buildout is:
- Build the crossovers - I'm scared!
- Finishing the cabinets. I'm going to do a combination of white paint (front baffles only) and a light veneer on the rest of the cabinets (something like sycamore - my girlfriend LOVES sycamore - see picture below, I want something like this
- Wiring
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=235431)
I could use some guidance as I work my way through these last phases of the build. So here are my questions.
1. Do I need to do a couple coats of Duratex before I do anything with paint/veneer?
2. I'm a bit stumped on how to go about painting the front baffles. I don't have a paint gun and a few auto paint shops I've asked in town (Waco) have looked at me with blank stares when I ask them if they can paint them for me. How do I get this done without buying a paint gun? lol
3. Should I get the paint on the front baffles done first and THEN do the veneer?
4. When I'm soldering my crossovers (I've never done anything like that before) I'm worried that I won't solder the connections correctly. For example:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=235432)
In this picture, I've got two red circles indicating what I'm unsure about. Does the copper foil lead need to be overlapping the other circle's component leads to make a correct connection or do they all just need to be making a connection with that line, and is it as simple as that?
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I would just put them very close. No need to overly-wrap the foil around the caps lead. Would advise not to, incase you need to remove, or do something else. Single wrap, or what some do, I’ve seen is to poke a hole in the foil, put the cap through it, and solder the others through as well, or next to. Long as they are next to each other, and soldered very well (no cold solder joints) you should be good.
I’m sure someone will want to make a correction.
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Thank you!
(no cold solder joints)
Btw what is a cold solder joint?
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Thank you!
Btw what is a cold solder joint?
a cold joint looks like it's soldered but does not actually have good adhesion so the joint can move resulting in poor contact. A proper solder joint should be smooth and shiny. A cold joint looks dull. At least, that is what I was taught to look for.
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If you're looking for paint ideas on how to do it, there are likely several options. If you choose the diy route, it can be done by you and without spray guns. Go talk to your local auto paint store and ask them about their options for aerosols. Using the Spraymax cans, they spray as well as an inexpensive mini spray gun and you can put whatever quality of paint in there including topnshelf basecoat and clearcoat options. The big thing is primer on your raw MDF eill take a couple applications with sanding in between. I would recommend do the paint work first, then do the veneer so as not to have an issue with overspray or massive sanding dust.
The other option is to take them to a cabinet shop and ask them to refinish it. They deal with painting wood all day long, so for that it should be an easy project. Really just depends on how far down the rabbit hole you wish to go.
If you have any questions along the way, just shoot me a pm and I'll give you a hand.
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My dudes --
I'm really excited to finally start my own build thread. My first thread was about asking which components would go well with my NX-Studios. Well, I've got it all purchased and delivered. The last things I need to really decide on is:
- Speaker stands for the NX-Studios
- An equipment rack for the components
- Cording for connecting all my components
- Sound treating my room
This week I glued my two speaker cabinets together! Finished and it feels really exciting to see them both standing next to each other. I've got the NoRez cut out too. My main open items for the buildout is:
- Build the crossovers - I'm scared!
- Finishing the cabinets. I'm going to do a combination of white paint (front baffles only) and a light veneer on the rest of the cabinets (something like sycamore - my girlfriend LOVES sycamore - see picture below, I want something like this
- Wiring
Any solid stand that puts the center of the tweeter near the height of your ears when sitting will work. If the stand is hollow, you can add ballast like sand to make them less resonate and more stable.
The same is true for equipment racks. Solid, stable, and works with your equipment are the main criteria. Where you plan on putting your equipment in relation to the speakers is also something to be considered. If possible, equipment placed between the speakers is best kept close to the floor. Taller racks are best placed off to the side and/or at the back of the room. Keeping tall equipment racks out from between the speakers provides the best soundstage and imaging experience. Depending on how you use the system and the room, keeping tall things out from between the speakers may not be possible.
As for cabling, they need to be well designed and constructed. This includes good shielding for interconnects and power cables. Stupid expensive is not a requirement. If your equipment has the ability to be connected either balanced (XLR) or single ended (RCA), balanced will give the best performance as it keeps RFI/EMI interference from being picked up by the cables.
I wouldn't worry about sound treatments until after you have your speakers set up as best you can. Improper set up can cause a lot of room related issues. Proper setup can fix a lot of these. After you have fixed as much as you can with setup, then add room treatments to address the problems you have left.
I was scared of crossovers before building my first one too. Turns out they are not that hard to do and there is plenty of help here. If you're unsure of something, take pictures, post them here (with component values marked out to protect Danny's intellectual property), and ask questions before soldering.
DuraTex is not needed under paint unless you want the textured look of DuraTex in a color other than black or white. If you aren't after the DuraTex texture, then just use a primer/sealer then paint over that unless the product you use doesn't need a separate primer/sealer.
Do not put DuraTex under veneer. The veneer needs to be adhered directly to the MDF.
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Thanks everyone!
So I think this is what I'm going to do... tell me if I'm missing a step. Seriously, talk to me like I'm 10 years old and tell me if I'm not thinking this through correctly.
Finishing
I want to paint just the front baffles and the inside of the top section a pearly white (glossy piano white)
I want to veneer the sides, back and bottom
I need to tape off the sides/back/bottom when I'm doing all the priming/painting because the veneer needs to bond directly to the MDF.
I need to use a primer like BIN Shellec Primer on the front baffles and upper section under the grill. (
I'll sand between each coat of primer. Might need 3-4 coats.
After the priming phase is done, I add on my topcoat of finish that I want the speakers to show off.
Questions about finishing w/paint:
- Can I apply the primer with anything? Spraycan/paintbrush?
- Is there a final layer of clear sealant that goes on top of the topcoat to "lock in/protect" the top coat?
- Should i try to use primer to seal up the inside of the cabinet? That'll be interesting since they're all glued up.
- To get the glossy shine on my piano white, can this be accomplished with spray can or will i need to buy a spray gun?
Questions about finishing w/veneer:
- I didn't put anything in the bottom of the speakers to receive spikes/feet. Is it took late to do this and should I do it before I put the veneer on?
- Maybe feet/spikes are irrelevant if I'm going to use speaker stands?
- Is it advisable to veneer the front and two sides with three separate pieces or can I veneer it with long longer piece and wrap it around front side to back to other side?
- Should i even bother with finishing the bottom of the speakers? Or should i just paint that the same glossy piano white?
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Stands: I’m using the Monoprice 28” stands for my NX Studios.
Equipment rack: Salamander Designs Archetype that I’ve had forever
Crossover: All the speaker wire connection points (except the T- point) the wires are actually vertical as that worked better for the packaging and foil attachment, that detail may not be obvious when first looking at the picture
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=234630)
Building some of Danny’s speaker cables next.
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Stands: I’m using the Monoprice 28” stands for my NX Studios.
Equipment rack: Salamander Designs Archetype that I’ve had forever
Crossover: All the speaker wire connection points (except the T- point) the wires are actually vertical as that worked better for the packaging and foil attachment, that detail may. Or be obvious when first looking at the picture
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=234630)
Building some of Danny’s speaker cables next.
Thanks! And thank you for the crossover picture. Very helpful!
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Always practice your finishing technique / schedule on similar material before doing it on your speakers.
A piano gloss finish is the hardest to do so practice until you like the results before touching your speakers
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I'm looking at how I'm going to connect all my components together
Does this look right?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=235468)
1. Connect streamer to DAC with Coaxable
2. Connect DAC to Amps with RCX Cable
3. Connect Amps to to speakers with speakercable.
I have tube connectors on the NX Studios. It looks like my Kismet amps will accept banana clips right? Or do I have to stick the raw speaker wire into the holes in the binding posts?
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If you are using the volume knob on the musical paradise, you will need to connect to the variable outputs on the bottom left.
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If you are using the volume knob on the musical paradise, you will need to connect to the variable outputs on the bottom left.
Thanks - I don't know that I ever would have figured this out on my own. Ultra newbie right here.... :duh:
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Question on wiring. I bunged up the long white wire (-IN Wi) where you cut a section of the coating off and connect it to one of the leads. When I was wrapping the lead around the jump area in the middle of the white line, the copper broke in half (probably because I was undoing and redoing the twist. It just got brittle and snapped.
Now I have two white wires when I was supposed to have one white wire with a jump in it.
Can I just solder these two ends to the lead or does this need to be one continuous, unbroken wire?
:duh:
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A picture would help yield better advice
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Here's a photo.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=235515)
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It does not have to be continuous but you want good overlap. I’m assuming the red wire is already soldered in, if so I would use a razor blade cut back the red sheathing some more to give a good place to connect the white wires too
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It does not have to be continuous but you want good overlap. I’m assuming the red wire is already soldered in, if so I would use a razor blade cut back the red sheathing some more to give a good place to connect the white wires too
Thanks! I haven't soldered any of the speaker wires yet - just doing a twist fit to make sure I've got it right before I pull out the solder. I can definitely peel of some more red sheathing and make this happen.
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I've decided I'm going to just paint these speakers and not deal with veneer. Pearly white.
Is the water-based BIN primer safe to use on this MDF or should I get something oil-basd, like shellac?
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I would start with an alcohol/solvent base first. I've had great luck with dewaxed shellac, (Zinner Seal Coat) it dries quickly and won't cause swelling like a water based primer.
Standard shellac isnt a good idea, as the wax may prevent any further layers from adhering properly.
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I would start with an alcohol/solvent base first. I've had great luck with dewaxed shellac, (Zinner Seal Coat) it dries quickly and won't cause swelling like a water based primer.
Standard shellac isnt a good idea, as the wax may prevent any further layers from adhering properly.
Thanks Hobbs!
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Hi everyone! Over the past 3 months I've been watching others do their builds, asking questions, researching/buying my components for my rig, and yes, putting mine together. Currently I'm finishing my cabinets and waiting for the 2nd round of primer to cure overnight, so I figured this is a good time to post my build up to this point.
I thought I had taken more pictures along the way, sadly I didn't that many pictures on my phone. Anyway, here we go!
Speakers:
NX-Studios (I upgraded these with Sonicaps and Foil Inductors)
Amps:
Odyssey Kismet monoblocks (with a number of upgrades, Klaus told me the previous owner pretty much maxed them out with upgrades)
DAC:
MP-D2 MK3 DELUXE (I maxed out my upgrade options on this when I ordered it)
Streamer:
Bluesound Node 2
Speaker stands:
Monolith 24" stands
I'm using RCA cables to connect DAC to the amps and coax to go from the streamer to the DAC. I'll be going cheap on speaker cables for now and still need to get those.
Since I am completely new to Hi-Fi and sound systems, researching my components took me quite a while because I had to learn a lot along the way and I still have 99% left to learn haha. After that planning out how I was going to build the cabinets as frequently a stop-start-stop-start process because I didn't want any "oh shit" moments because I was moving too quickly.
Assembling the crossovers was definitely the most frustrating and anxiety provoking part of this journey. Since I don't have any woodworking/electronics experience it sure felt like I was flying blind with the whole DIY side of this, so I'm incredibly grateful for the helpful community here that's generously shared their experience and suggestions as well as answering so many of my questions.
Finally, figuring out how I was going to finish these speakers was a headache all on its own. Veneer vs paint vs a combination of both etc etc... I very quickly found out I had no idea what I was doing and had to slow down and spend a bunch of time watching Youtube videos and asking questions. ** Infinite mount of gratitude goes the nlitworld (blue for his insanely cool blue NX Studios) for helping me with paint journey. **
Honestly, when I started this journey, I had no idea what I was getting myself into. I've equipped myself with a lot of new knowledge, skills, and grown a lot in my character. No giving up on this journey - there is only moving forward and being patient with dedication.
As I'm nearing the end of my build, I'm getting very excited to move out of the research/build phase of my relationship with HiFi audio..... and finally getting to listen to supremely awesome sound. Hahaha, I joke around with my friends that I'm almost as excited to be done building these as I am beginning to listen to them! :thumb:
I still have to think about the sound treatment of the space I'm using, and then maybe adding one (or two) dual servo subs... but all that can wait until later. For now, I wanted to post this with my immense gratitude to everyone. From Danny and the team, making all of this possible, to Peter with his NX Studio build (yes, I used Twizzlers in the building of these babies), to all of you who have shared your own build journeys, to everyone who's patiently and graciously answered my questions, and to my dog Doogan who's been my buddy through each step.... THANK YOU!
Okay, I heading to Home Depot to get some 600grain sandpaper to sand the cabinets with so I'm ready to go tomorrow on the basecoat, pearl coat and top coat tomorrow!
Pictures of my progress so far and more updates to follow later today!
Aaron
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I'm super excited to see how your speakers turn out. I'm sitting here blasting my speakers reading your post, and I know your build is going to be amazing. The first time you plug them in, I guarantee you'll have a shit eating grin on your face, just giggling how good they sound. I know I did. The best part about it is that you'll have built them from scratch. :popcorn:
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Paint is done! And I have to say, I LOVE the white color and the pearl coat. Really nice touch. I'll be uploading pics of everything but I've hit a snag with something and I'm a bit worried about how to proceed.
I'm getting ready to install norez, connect the drivers and tube connectors to the crossovers but my crossover wiring keeps breaking in one area and I don't know what to do. I'm considering taking/sending it somewhere to have the crossover wiring completely redone but I don't even know if soldering can be redone.
Here's a picture of what's happening. It's the jump connection that connects the negative tube connector, negative woofer, and positive tweeter. I'm really stumped on whether or not I should try to continue to resolder wire that continues to get brittle and break. Pretty frustrating.
I'm also beginning to doubt if my soldering of the crossover, in general, just sucks and if I ruined it. Can I get some advice on what to do?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237430)
Thanks guys... I'm so close to being done. It killed me when this connection broke. Again.
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What kind of soldering iron are you using? Remember to make a good physical connection and then add solder to the joint to lock them together. Heat the joint and add solder to the joint. There shouldn’t be any big solder blobs.
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(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237430)
Just strip the wire where it snapped, and solder that copper to the copper stub on the other side. It's not a big deal to have 1 extra solder joint.
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Also if you can bring that wire down to the crossover board, use a small zip tie or two to hold it down it will act as a strain relief to keep joints from flexing. It's not a bad idea on any crossover, but particularly with solid wire. Not to worry, my solders aren't all that pretty, but functionally fine.
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Thanks for the advice, everybody. I'll circle back to resoldering this joint tonight after work. I'm really excited about being done with the build and getting to the LISTENING part!
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We still need photos. Show proof or it never really happened.
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Here's some of the pictures I've taken. I haven't gotten any of the cabinets since I finished painting them but those are on the way!
Dry fitting begins!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237494)
Wow... I had so much to learn still when I was at the dry fit stage!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237478)
Starting to measure and cut no rez.... being the newbie I am, I used a utility razor to cut (hack/destroy) the no rez to size. I should have used a jigsaw or bandsaw... :?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237480)
Fitting the norez that I cut before gluing the cabinets together.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237481)
This is my setup (after gluing the cabinets... wish I had gotten some pics of them in clamps!) with all my components in the room they'll be in. I'll be getting more things on the wall, furniture and a good shag rug for sound treatment.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237482)
The Grill fastners, which half of them have already snapped off, so I'll be using velcro to fasten the crossover assembly to the floor of the cabinets.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237483)
Crossover before I brought out the soldering iron.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237495)
These were my paints! From left to right, (primer, degreaser, base coat, pearl coat, and clear coat).
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237484)
I had to get creative to paint these cabinets in my garage. They hung really nicely from this shelf and steel pipe.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237496)
These have round 1 of primer on them and have been sanded down.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237497)
After 2nd round of primer
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237498)
My paint job could definitely have been better. There are lighter/darker areas on the sides of the cabinets and it's clear this was a newbie DIY. I got the paint too wet in a few areas too and it started to drip. I decided I wasn't going to be a perfectionist since doing that has already slowed me down enough.
Those are the pictures that I have for now. Once I get the wiring done on fixing the crossover and wiring the drivers, crossovers, and tube connectors together, I'll pretty much be done!
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:thumb: Nice work Aaron!
As for the drips, if it was only in the clearcoat it can be sanded and polished to minimize the transgression. Believe me, it happens to the best of us :oops:. All in all, I'm excited for you to get them playing finally. You can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel.
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Duuuuuudes! I'm nearly done. I did a trial touch sound test and they WORK!!! Final soldering will be done this weekend. These are going to sound so awesome when I put the woofers into the cabinets.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237609)
I don't know if my ears are playing tricks on me, but the right woofer doesn't sound as loud as the left one. Is that my imagination? I want to make sure that I address that before I solder the drivers to the wiring. I'm a bit concerned maybe I did something wrong (weak crossover connections?) or that maybe something is wrong with the right woofer. All four drivers are definitely playing though.
It could be that the left speaker cabinet has a wall to the left of it while the right speaker cabinet has an open doorway (no wall) to its right.
Any ideas on this or is this just part of the burn in process/my imagination?
I'm also curious about the 500 hours of burn-in time. They need to be playing for 500 hours... does it matter if they're playing LOUD or can they be playing softly?
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Flip the woofers around into the opposite cabinet and you'll know for certain.
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Ok, it's not my imagination. I checked with a sound level meter and the left woofer is producing in mid-high 70s and the right woofer is only producing at mid-high 60s. I've got them up on stands and temporarily screwed the woofers into the cabinets. The bass DEFINITELY pops more. But sitting back in a chair, I can't even really tell that I have a right speaker cabinet. The left one completely dominates the soundscape.
Thanks Tyson, tomorrow I'll try flipping the woofers to see if it's a the woofer itself or something else.
Hopefully it's not an "Aaron screwed up the crossover" issue... That's my main concern :o
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Start with swapping the woofers, if the problem follows the woofer then you know you have a bad woofer. If the sound doesn't follow the woofer, then try swapping the crossovers. If it follows the crossovers, then you know it's your wiring of the crossover.
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Start with swapping the woofers, if the problem follows the woofer then you know you have a bad woofer. If the sound doesn't follow the woofer, then try swapping the crossovers. If it follows the crossovers, then you know it's your wiring of the crossover.
Dang.. how do I troubleshoot a crossover wiring issue? I don’t suppose I can send it to someone who does crossovers as a business can I? I just want to be done with these babies and enjoy them!
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I couldn't sleep without trying to switch things out. Here's what I tested:
- Swapped woofers (left side is still louder)
- Sound level meter tested the tweeters (left side still louder)
- Swapped the amps (left side still louder)
In all cases both the left tweeter and left woofer are about 10db louder than the right.
So my operating assumption is that it's a crossover issue. I don't think I need to swap crossovers since I've swapped every other possible piece of the chain. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to trouble shoot from here? At this point it's beyond my knowledge or competency.
Thanks in advance :bowdown:
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I'd also swap the speaker boxes around, because it could be your DAC since it's tubed. A tube might be going out and you're blaming it on the poor speakers.
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Thanks, I’ll try that today. I bought the DAC brand new from Musical Paradise. That would be interesting if tubes are already going out.
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Sending you a pm with photos of my crossover for reference. Just in case.
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Try swapping cables too.
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Sending you a pm with photos of my crossover for reference. Just in case.
Thanks! I'm 99% sure my wiring is correct/accurate. My concern is that the connections in the soldering might not be solid...which is weird... if sound is coming through BOTH tweeter and woofer... it wouldn't decrease the volume, would it?
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Try swapping cables too.
ooooh good idea! I used cheap rockfish banana plugs/speaker wire that I twisted together in about 5 minutes.. maybe when I pushed/twisted the plugs onto the wire it didn't make a strong connection...
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If it was a question of actual connectivity, it should be on/off or intermittent at best. A volume difference would be something else.
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If it was a question of actual connectivity, it should be on/off or intermittent at best. A volume difference would be something else.
Lloyd, are you saying connectivity inside the crossover or connectivity within the speaker cable?
It's definitely not on/off or intermittent issue. It's constantly putting out music. It's just constantly putting it out at 10db less volume on the right side than the left side. Both on the tweeter and the woofer. It's not the woofer or the tweeter themselves. I've swapped them. Same issue. It's not the amplifier. I swapped those. Same issue.
I'd love for this to be the speaker cable....
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If it was a connectivity issue anywhere along the way, there would be intermittent music playing when it cuts out. When I had my crossovers burning in, I had them just touching the banana plugs and crappy plug connections plugged into the drivers. When something wiggled, it would drop a driver or full speaker completely. Your earlier photo of the crossover before soldering looks correct, and you fixed the weird wire snap spot, so unless you wired your output points differently it should be good. Try Tyson's suggestion of swapping speaker boxes as well. That'll tell you for certain if it's crossover or perhaps back towards the system.
I do remember a while back there was a post where the tweeter was down due to a mislabeled resistor, but that was a fluke and only on the resistor circuit, not the woofer.
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I just tried swapping out the speaker cables. And same issue - the right side is 10db softer than the right side. Both tweeter and woofer.
On my lunch break I'll switch out crossovers. I'm beginning to think it's something in the right crossover assembly.
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It is worth parts values too. Mistakes happen. When my kit first came, on of the caps was way off in values from the others, but in a way where it was kinda obvious that someone just misread when grabbing from a bin.
It won't help you now as easily, but I also suggest checking each part with a multimeter when you get a kit or when you buy individual parts.
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Ok, it's the DAC. PROGRESS! :green:
I switched the RCA cables at the back end of the DAC now the right side is louder than the left side.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237648)
It doesn't matter if I use the variable outputs (that let me use the volume knob on the DAC) or the RCA outputs.
So then I decided to plug the RCA cords from my streamer RCA ports direct to the amps.... the volume plays at the same level on both speaker cabinets.
So, it's definitely the DAC. Is the next step to call Musical Paradise and trouble shoot with them since this is a brand new DAC?
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Probably a tube. Try swapping the tubes on the right with the tubes on the left and see if the problem follows the tubes.
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Probably a tube. Try swapping the tubes on the right with the tubes on the left and see if the problem follows the tubes.
So does that mean swapping out the two star tubes for the hexagon tubes?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=237655)
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Yep.
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I switched the tubes on the DAC and I'm still having the same issue with volume on the left side being 10db louder than the right.
I'm completely out of ideas. I've emailed the Musical Paradise people and am waiting on a response.
Does anyone else have any other ideas I might be able to try in the meantime?
I'm tempted to return the DAC and go with a something completely different, or even go with no DAC for a bit. $2k for a DAC that doesn't work out of the box is not something I want to deal with.
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Oof! I would also swap those freebie cables for something better made. Consider Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 at a bare minimum or for real engineered performance, Iconoclast BAV cables.
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Try changing your IC's for a new set of IC's. It might be the interconnect itself.
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Oof! I would also swap those freebie cables for something better made. Consider Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 at a bare minimum or for real engineered performance, Iconoclast BAV cables.
Haha, my rig definitely isn’t complete. These are cheap things I’m using for now. Haven’t even soldered the drivers to the crossover yet :lol:
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Try changing your IC's for a new set of IC's. It might be the interconnect itself.
IC’s? What are they and would one get them?
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IC = interconnect = what you referred to earlier as "RCA cords". :icon_lol:
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Oof! I would also swap those freebie cables for something better made.
I'm glad someone went there :lol:
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lol you guys HATE those cheap/free cables! :lol: I've ordered the Blue Jean cables but this is definitely not where the problem is coming from.
When I go straight from the streamer to the amps (skipping the DAC) I have equal volume levels between the left and the right.
Garry at Musical Paradise suggested the following:
"This should be a signal tube balance issue.
Since you use variable RCA output only, you can swap V1 and V3 signal tubes to see if the softer issue moves to another channel.
You can also unplug V2 and V4 tubes, keep V2 and V4 sockets empty. Put V2 and V4 tubes to V1 and V3."
I've tried all the combos and the right side persists.
What's interesting is when I switch the variable outputs to (left output --> left speaker, right output --> right speaker) to (left output --> right speaker, right output --> left speaker), then the left speaker is the soft one and the right speaker is the loud one.
I know it's not the ICs because if I move the ICs from DAC to Amps to streamer to amps, the volume levels are balanced.
Hopefully Garry has more ideas on what to try with the DAC.
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Welp, at least it's not your speakers!
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for real! I was gonna be gutted if my crossovers had a problem.... :banghead:
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Garry's next suggestion was the swap out the left / right DAC modules... which I just did and still no difference.
His other idea is that it's the ALPS Volume pot (not sure what that is).
Another possibility he mentioned is that my amps have different impedance levels and that the MP-D2-MK3 would pick up the difference, whereas my streamer may not pick up on it... sounds like I might need to get some help from Klaus. Garry said to use a multimeter resistor settings to measure the left and right RCA input terminal of my amp input and to make sure both are the same resistor value, such as both are 100k Ohm.
Newbie question here (after I go buy a multimeter) do I touch both prongs to the RCA input I'm measuring or does one prong touch the RCA input the other other prong touches somewhere else?
Thanks for all the help guys! I feel really excited. I'm having so much fun playing different music even without the DAC on day 2 of 21 of my burn in. These babies are goin to get so good. I can't wait for the bass to REALLY start coming in. It's pretty low right now.
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Aaron, on my build page Hobbs suggested a couple links to help with burn in. I know they're pretty obnoxious to listen to, but popping them on when you leave the house for a few hours will really help burn in the woofers. Or you could just play Dr. Dre on repeat.
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Aaron, on my build page Hobbs suggested a couple links to help with burn in. I know they're pretty obnoxious to listen to, but popping them on when you leave the house for a few hours will really help burn in the woofers. Or you could just play Dr. Dre on repeat.
Nice! Yeah, this morning I set up an old laptop to play my dummy/free Spotify account constantly while I'm gone and brown noise while I'm home/asleep.
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GUTTED....
I've been leaving my Musical Paradise DAC out of my rig because the right/left volume difference was different enough that I couldn't even hear the quiet speaker.
Going straight from the streamer to the amps has been how I've been enjoying my music. But I couldn't return the DAC so I've been trouble shooting with MP to figure out what the deal is.
Today I finally isolated the problem. Almost twice the voltage was coming from one of the DAC modules. When I switched those and played music through them, then the quiet speaker became the loud speaker... seemed like that solved my problem... until suddenly the newly loud speaker shut off, I smelled a burning electrical smell and saw a bit of smoke beginning to come up from my left amplifier.
GUTTED.
I'm not sure if I need to just send the amp to Klaus for repairs or if I can try putting power and a signal through it.... I'm scared to do that.
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Contacting Klaus now who I've spoken with a few times about my amps already. He's a REALLY cool guy. I'm hoping when I send my amp(s) in he'll be able to save the one that's toasted.
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That's a bummer. At least you isolated the problem though! Hopefully you can get the repairs done without too much pain. Most companies are able and willing to do repairs like that, especially notable companies that people here deal with. The only question is at what cost and how long. At least there is now an explanation and a route to fix the problems.
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Amps are on their way to Indiana to be repaired by Klaus.
I talked to Hobbes yesterday and think the only damage that could have happened to the speakers is to the tweeters which is a big relief. I was worried a possibility of the crossovers getting fried.
Looks like I will be without hifi music for several weeks while waiting the amps to be fixed and shipped back to me. In the meantime, I'm already pretty sold on the idea of getting a dual servo sub to go with my NX Studios.
Is it possible for me to run a single dual servo sub on this system or will i need to get a pair of dual servo subs? Will this require I get a preamp too or is there a way to get a sub going without a preamp?
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You can run a single dual sub on the middle of the room. Standing up or lying down. Ideally, 2 is better than one, but a single in mono will still work really well.
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Amps are on their way to Indiana to be repaired by Klaus.
I talked to Hobbs yesterday and think the only damage that could have happened to the speakers is to the tweeters which is a big relief. I was worried a possibility of the crossovers getting fried.
Looks like I will be without hifi music for several weeks while waiting the amps to be fixed and shipped back to me. In the meantime, I'm already pretty sold on the idea of getting a dual servo sub to go with my NX Studios.
Is it possible for me to run a single dual servo sub on this system or will i need to get a pair of dual servo subs? Will this require I get a preamp too or is there a way to get a sub going without a preamp?
Thanks Hobbs! How do I connect one (or two) subs to my current system? I don't see obvious outputs like "Speaker output" "Sub output". Would I get some sort of splitter cords that come out of the amps that would go to both speakers and subs or is the only solution to get a preamp?
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If your DAC is the preamp, or you control the volume via your source, you will need an RCA splitter coming from the DAC. One cable going to your amps, the other going to your sub. Subs should have L/R & LFE inputs so you can connect both L&R inputs and your sub will combine them into Mono.
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If your DAC is the preamp, or you control the volume via your source, you will need an RCA splitter coming from the DAC. One cable going to your amps, the other going to your sub. Subs should have L/R & LFE inputs so you can connect both L&R inputs and your sub will combine them into Mono.
Niiiiice!
Well, it's going to be weeks until I get my amps back from Klaus at Odyssey Audio, so I've got plenty of time to research subs. I think I'll probably go with 1 dual servo (that's 2 woofers, right?) to start out with and lay it down on the floor horizontal, and if I want/need more, then I can add a 2nd one.
8)
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Hmmmmm....!
This one is for sale in Austin... not sure if it's sold or not.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=179062.msg1882550#msg1882550
Can anyone tell me how this model of sub is different from the ones GR Research currently uses (but is out of supply on)? It'd be great to have a sub sooner than later, but if this is a major downgrade from what I could get if I'm patient, then I might as well wait.
Thanks!
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Hmmmmm....!
This one is for sale in Austin... not sure if it's sold or not.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=179062.msg1882550#msg1882550
Can anyone tell me how this model of sub is different from the ones GR Research currently uses (but is out of supply on)? It'd be great to have a sub sooner than later, but if this is a major downgrade from what I could get if I'm patient, then I might as well wait.
Thanks!
Those are our current woofers, and that is a great deal.
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My dudes,
Does anyone know what size screws the NEO 3 tweeters use to screw in to the NX Studios? I'm having trouble getting the bottom screw in and I want to use a cap head screw like this so I can use a ball head allen wrench to tighten them down.
Something like this:
https://www.parts-express.com/M5-x-30mm-Cap-Head-Wood-Screws-Black-100-Pcs.-081-312?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=9792868744&utm_content=100758495060&utm_term=&gadid=430004651500
I'm not sure what diameter the screw is supposed to be to fit in next in properly where the tweeter receives the screw.
I'm guessing a 1/2" length screw is fine but I'm curious about the diameter.
For now I'm going to play my speakers with only the top screws fastened. My amps have been with Odessey Audio getting repaired from the Musical Paradise DAC that fried them and I've finally got them back. Tonight is my first night to listen to my babies again!
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I followed a suggestion by Peter and sunk in some inserts and used Allen head screws in there. I believe they were 6-32 on the tweeter. Doesn't really help you on the wood screw department though.
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Just wanted to say I am sorry you are having to deal with so many setbacks! You have a great attitude and enthusiasm so hang in there. I hope Klaus will be able to determine what happened because it seems like if you hadn't had a dac chip that was bad you would not have had to go through all this and your amps would still be in your living room. Hint hint.
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I believe they were 6-32 on the tweeter.
I stand corrected, the little ones on the tweeter were 4-40 screws. You should be looking at a #4 screw for easy application.
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nadirmg, reading your tale of woe I remain concerned the DAC has issues bad enough to fry an amp. When you discussed situation with Klaus is there a plan to assure DAC is 100% A-OK before repaired amps are plugged in?
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nadirmg, reading your tale of woe I remain concerned the DAC has issues bad enough to fry an amp. When you discussed situation with Klaus is there a plan to assure DAC is 100% A-OK before repaired amps are plugged in?
Hah.... the woe continues. It's a tale worthy of Lake Woebegone.
As soon as I plugged my amps/speakers into the DAC and played music, the left amp promptly overheated and smoked. The problem in this equation has always been that DAC. They already replaced a DAC module but it it's clearly the variable out put, and potentially more that's wrong because even with the amps fully tested and repaired, it still fries anything I plug into the left variable out channel.
Klaus recommended I go ahead and take out the DAC from the equation and play both amps directly through the stream. The rationale being, "if they're going to fry again even without the DAC, let's go ahead and force that outcome".
After several days of moderately to heavily playing sound from the streamer to the amps, they are fine, even after the left amp smoked a bit. Amazing!
Klaus and I are in agreement that, unless something changes, the amps are safe to play.
More on the DAC in a bit.
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I stand corrected, the little ones on the tweeter were 4-40 screws. You should be looking at a #4 screw for easy application.
Thanks! I think I'm going to get a flexible extension for my power drill and see if that won't help me out. I've heard good things.
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Just wanted to say I am sorry you are having to deal with so many setbacks! You have a great attitude and enthusiasm so hang in there. I hope Klaus will be able to determine what happened because it seems like if you hadn't had a dac chip that was bad you would not have had to go through all this and your amps would still be in your living room. Hint hint.
Thanks dude.
Klaus at Odyssey Audio was an absolute champ. His customer service is unparalleled. Working with Musical Paradise has been like going to the DMV AGAIN after you've paid $2k for a drivers license because they made a mistake. But enough about Musical Purgatory....
My speakers and amps are safe right now. The DAC is in Canada getting repaired..... it's too late to return it, so I'm hoping they will find some something wrong with it and fix it under factory warranty since I bought it brand new.
If they don't find anything wrong with it, it's going to become $2k paperweight. I'm not going to risk my system again on hardware that has multiple defects/failures right off the factory line.
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It's time for a subwoofer. I want one. BAD.
I'd love to go through GR-Research to get my sub and build it myself, but with the Rhythmik amps are on backorder until who knows when, I'm looking at other options. And CHECK THIS OUT.
If I go directly through Rhythmik, I can get their F12-G model. What does the 'G' stand for? It's stands for "GR-Research" and uses the GR-Research driver. I'm still a complete newbie here, but I do want my cabinets to have GR Research drivers in them, so the Rhythmik F12-G is what I'm going with. It also comes in gloss white ($90+) and will match my NX Studio cabinets pretty closely.
Here's what I'm not sure about. The upgrades. Here are my options (highlighted in red):
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243099)
I'm not trying to get fancy. I just want to connect my sub through SUBW out from my Bluesound Node 2i which is functioning as a "preamp" for now. But I do want the ability to use this sub later on in an upgraded rig if I do decide to get a preamp (or if Musical Paradise magically gets their act together, I could use the DAC as a preamp).
Here's the back of my Bludsound Node 2i
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243097)
Given that I'm NOT a professional and hardly even consider myself an audiophile at this point, which of these upgrades do you guys think I need to get? I just don't want to get standard model and end up wishing later on down the road that I'd spend $50-80 on an upgrade that could have spared me the regret. I just want things to work and not have a "DOH" moment later one. I've had enough of those..
If it helps, this is the back of my rig (before the DAC incident) (ignore the red comments) and it's what I'm working with now.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243098)
I think it basically comes down to the basic configuration, an LFE option, or two different XLR options.
I have zero plans to use this system as a home theater, so I think I can pass on the LFE option.
I'm not currently using XLRs in my setup at all am I'm not too keen on changing that.
I think I'm just going with the basic one. Any reason why I shouldn't?
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I think you want the PEQ3 upgrade but that's my beat guess only. I'm sure brighter minds know more than I!
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I think you want the PEQ3 upgrade but that's my beat guess only. I'm sure brighter minds know more than I!
Thanks dude!
I wonder... :dunno: what's the benefit of me having the RCA LFE option?
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The rca lfe in makes it where the phase and crossover are disabled and handled by your av processor. Handy if you need to set it through that, but not what you're looking for so not worthy of the "upgrade". Connect as sub out to line in connections, or run speaker wire and connect off your amp to impart the same sound signature all the way through. It won't take any power off the amp (likely 1/4 watt resistors used) so no concern there.
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I was hoping that would be the case!
I ordered it yesterday morning and I think it will arrive tomorrow! I can't wait to hear how adding a good sub deepens the experience!
Aaron
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Musical Paradise update from Gary:
"I tested the DAC preamp output with a tube amp and a solid state amp, it works perfectly. Then, I connected my oscilloscope to the DAC L and R preamp output to check if there is any DC voltage output and do a FFT full frequencies scan. Both channels are good. No DC output offset. When the volume pot is about half way, the output AC signal voltage is about 17dbV (7V) under 1Mohm load (under 100kohm, the voltage will be a lot smaller <2V) . The carrier high frequency is about -40dbV (0.01V only). Both channels are about the same. I guess there are only three possibilities in this case.
1. The RCA cable you use may be defective or non-shielded cable.
2. The mono amps have some other unknown compatibility issues.
3. Maybe the VCAP odam output coupling capacitors in the DAC sometimes (randomly) have a leakage to create a small DC offset.
To be safe, I recommend changing them to four Mundorf MCAP supreme Gold silver oil capacitors, then ship the DAC back to you."
Guys, I'm at a loss of what to do.
Klaus fixed my amps and they work just fine without the DAC.
When I add the DAC in, the DAC fries the left amp.
MP's Gary says the DAC is fine but gives the 3 possibilities above.
The ICs I used a cheap pieces of crap from Amazon, so I need to upgrade those anyway..
I could have him upgrade the VCAP odam output coupling capacitors like he suggests in option #3 but....
I'm stumped. Maybe his suggestion of #2, (that there's a hidden incompatability issue) is the thing.
Any ideas?
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I had kismet monoblocks for years they were so reliable I thought of them as bulletproof. I wouldn’t risk them with that dac any more. Check out audial tda1541a based dacs, I love my aya5
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I'm not trying to get fancy. I just want to connect my sub through SUBW out from my Bluesound Node 2i which is functioning as a "preamp" for now. But I do want the ability to use this sub later on in an upgraded rig if I do decide to get a preamp (or if Musical Paradise magically gets their act together, I could use the DAC as a preamp).
Keep in mind that if you do this (connect sub using Node SW out, and run Node into MP for its DAC and preamp functionality, or into regular line stage for volume control) that when you adjust volume (using MP or line stage volume control) your main speakers will be out of synch with your subwoofer. In other words, volume of mains will change, but subwoofer will not. The only way that volume of both will change in synch is to use the Node volume control.
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I had kismet monoblocks for years they were so reliable I thought of them as bulletproof. I wouldn’t risk them with that dac any more. Check out audial tda1541a based dacs, I love my aya5
Yeah, I will be looking for a new DAC. I just don't think they get along well.
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Keep in mind that if you do this (connect sub using Node SW out, and run Node into MP for its DAC and preamp functionality, or into regular line stage for volume control) that when you adjust volume (using MP or line stage volume control) your main speakers will be out of synch with your subwoofer. In other words, volume of mains will change, but subwoofer will not. The only way that volume of both will change in synch is to use the Node volume control.
In the absence of having a DAC, I've been using the Node Volume control through the iOS app anyway, so I'm good with that for now.
Eventually I want to use nlitworld's idea.
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Connect as sub out to line in connections, or run speaker wire and connect off your amp to impart the same sound signature all the way through. It won't take any power off the amp (likely 1/4 watt resistors used) so no concern there.
Does this involve splicing speaker wires or just using something as simple as a splitter? I'm not following exactly how to do this.
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Does this involve splicing speaker wires or just using something as simple as a splitter? I'm not following exactly how to do this.
No. Run speaker cables from your main amp binding posts to your sub's binding posts, identically to how you connect your main L and R speakers. It's called "high level" or "speaker level" connection. You can Google on it to learn more.
Doing it this way means your sub and main spkrs will be controlled together by whatever volume control you use anywhere in the chain. As opposed to the comment I made earlier about them being out of synch if you connect sub via Node SUBW OUT, and then use a volume control downstream of the Node to control output of main speakers.
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Yup, the rythmik subs have the high level input so that makes things super easy for straight 2ch playback, especially if you go 2 subs for stereo. My SVS subs don't have that, so I made a high level to line level converter for mine. Not difficult, just another afternoon of soldering resistors.
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Since I’ve got PTSD from frying components in my system, I want to make sure I’m not oversimplifying this.
Below you’ll see a picture of the back of one of my amps. It’s got binding posts. Currently I have banana clips that run speaker wire to my NX Studios.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=232818)
Using those same binding posts for that one amp, do I just take off the banana clips and put the speaker wires (going to my NX Studios) into the branding posts and then also insert an additional set of speaker wires going straight into my sub?
Is it that easy or is it more to it than that?
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Yup, that easy. It will be a miniscule load your amp sees for adding the sub.
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Yup, that easy. It will be a miniscule load your amp sees for adding the sub.
Sweet! Sub is arriving today! I’ll be listening to it this afternoon/evening. Next step will be to get some GOOD speaker wire from GR. The stuff I have from Best Buy, I’m sure is the bare minimum.
I also replaced my freebie RCA ICs with BJL1s. They are shielded at safe.
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Since 2 sets of wire are going onto a single amp post, make sure you terminate them differently. Do one in spades, one in bananas. Or you can combine bare wire with the banana plugs.
Another way to achieve high level sub connection is to piggy back off your mains. Run cables to you main speakers in the normal way, and then run cables from your speaker posts to the sub's high level inputs.
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Since 2 sets of wire are going onto a single amp post, make sure you terminate them differently. Do one in spades, one in bananas. Or you can combine bare wire with the banana plugs.
Another way to achieve high level sub connection is to piggy back off your mains. Run cables to you main speakers in the normal way, and then run cables from your speaker posts to the sub's high level inputs.
I'm stumped on a few things.
#1 - Just to fire up my sub, I run a cable from the SUBW OUT RCA on my streamer directly into the Line in RCA, and the sub would HARDLY give off a rumble even when I turned up the volume over 50%. I'm new to subs.. so maybe I just have to let it warm up or is this part of the burn in, or did I just connect it completely wrong? Soundwise, I couldn't even tell it was on at all. I had to put my hand on the cabinet to feel that it was barely putting out some bass.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243234)
#2 - Regarding banana plugs and spades. Neither my amps nor my speakers have binding posts. Or it appears they do not. My speakers just have banana plugs. No binding posts. And my amps have these on the back of them. When I unscrew the knob, I don't see a hole in the post where I could slide in some raw wire.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243232)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243233)
I feel like I'm so close but still not quite there yet...! :scratch:
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Easy fix. Just undo the wire from the banana plugs at the amp side and insert the second set of wire to run to your sub's high level input. It'll still have just the one banana plug at the amp but two wires running out to their respective homes.
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That's what I figured out, but I got it flopped from what you said, nlitworld.
I've got the sub wires connected to the speaker's banana plugs, rather than the amp's banana plugs. Is there any risk to that? Should they be connected to the banana plugs coming out of the amp and not the plugs going into the speakers?
Thank you so much for all the help and bearing with my saga of newbie questions. This sub REALLY changes the experience. I'm going to cautiously listen to it, I'm a bit apprehensive of playing it too loud too soon and hurt the sub.
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That should not be a problem at all. Similar to a speaker with bi-wire jumpers. Just a thought but how big is your room? If you have a bigger size room and one sub, that could be part of the reason for having to turn it up a bit extra. Even still, it should fill in the lower end real nicely for you.
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I'm stumped on a few things.
#1 - Just to fire up my sub, I run a cable from the SUBW OUT RCA on my streamer directly into the Line in RCA, and the sub would HARDLY give off a rumble even when I turned up the volume over 50%. I'm new to subs.. so maybe I just have to let it warm up or is this part of the burn in, or did I just connect it completely wrong? Soundwise, I couldn't even tell it was on at all. I had to put my hand on the cabinet to feel that it was barely putting out some bass.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243234)
IIRC you use a BlueSound Node 2i. Its default LOW PASS is 80hz. I'm not familiar with your sub, but be sure to bypass its internal LOW PASS filter if possible. If not, set it above 80hz. It's possible you have it set really low (say 30hz?), have not defeated it, and are therefore filtering out LF between 30 and 80, and / or are maybe playing music without much LF content?
Again, not knowing your sub, maybe you need to select the sub's input with a switch, and you have it set to "high level" instead of LFE, and the sub is therefore not receiving LF info?
I own the Node 2i and you should definitely be getting greater output than you describe.
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There's another possibility.....
The Node has a built-in and adjustable low-pass filter. Its subwoofer output is always active and like I said, the default low-pass is 80hz. But if you have the subwoofer switched to "ON" in the BluOS app, this means the low-pass is adjustable and set by the user. Maybe you have it set super low such that little LF info is being delivered to the sub?
In BluOS app goto "settings" "audio" "subwoofer". If it is switched to "on" check the level of the low-pass filter. That is what is being employed. If toggled to "off" low pass default is 80hz.
Keep in mind that when the BluOS subwoofer setting is toggled to "on" that your main speakers are also being "high-passed" at the same x-over that you have selected. The idea is to relieve your main amp and speakers of LF duty, thereby making them work less, resulting in cleaner and less distorted sound.
If toggled to "off" high-pass to mains is no longer in effect, and they are receiving the full signal. Output to sub is still active and the low-pass defaults to 80hz, not the user setting.
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You also have the gain set at something around -10db.
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You also have the gain set at something around -10db.
Duh...good point! :thumb: So obvious but I didn't see it. :o
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Duh...good point! :thumb: So obvious but I didn't see it. :o
That's a PEQ setting which you have disabled. So it won't do anything.
There should be a "rumble filter" on the lower portion of the amp, which appears to be turned "on" which will filter out any rumble. Try playing with that switch to see if disabling it helps with the issue.
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The room I'm playing in is roughly 12' x 17' but it's got three big doorways in it. The only other room I could set up in is easily 2x the size of this room.
Here's a shot of how I have things components placed. Please, don't rip me on cable management yet :lol: I'm still on day 2 of getting it all set up.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243253)
This shot shows the different doorways in the room. The third doorway on the right opens up to a long hallway. So this may not be the greatest room for this. But I think the other room will just be too big. It's like 20-something feet by 30-something feet.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243254)
Sorry, guys. I threw you off with that previous picture. Those settings were not how I was running it.
Currently I have the Subwoofer setting on my Bluesound Node 2i set to "off".
My subsettings (and the sub is definitely working now):
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243252)
PEQ: On
Gain: 0dB
Bandwidth: Medium/50%
Freq: 50hz (I think)
Delay/Phase: 0 (since I'm using a Highlevel sub connect)
Crossover: 80
Volume: Halfway to max
Subwoofer
Line in Low pass: 80hz
Rumble filter: Off
Extension Filter
Freq: 28
Damping: Hi
I'm just adjusting based on what sounds good... but if I'm doing something wrong with my settings, please do tell me.
Any suggestions, guys?
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I'm definitely going to get some sound treatment going in the room. It needs it.
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The only thing I'm not entirely sure about my high level sub connection.... when everything is plugged in and I power on the amps, the right speaker (that has the high level sub connection) pops. It's not painfully loud. But I don't like it and I've got component damage PTSD.
This only started after I did the high level sub connection.
Should I be worried?
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I would change your turn-on sequencing to keep your sub off until you have your amps on, and turn your sub off before you turn your amp off. I've heard stories of similar pops with amp/preamp sequencing as well. Also, you should be able to connect the left speaker to the sub as well, so that any low information not directly centered in the mix will also be played.
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The other channel needs to be connected to the sub. Setup in the photo would be for one sub in a stereo pair.
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The other channel needs to be connected to the sub. Setup in the photo would be for one sub in a stereo pair.
So like nlitworld, you're saying I should connect the left channel to the sub too?
Like this?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243261)
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I would change your turn-on sequencing to keep your sub off until you have your amps on, and turn your sub off before you turn your amp off. I've heard stories of similar pops with amp/preamp sequencing as well. Also, you should be able to connect the left speaker to the sub as well, so that any low information not directly centered in the mix will also be played.
I will give this a shot next time :)
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So like nlitworld, you're saying I should connect the left channel to the sub too?
Like this?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=243261)
Exactly. :thumb:
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I would change your turn-on sequencing to keep your sub off until you have your amps on, and turn your sub off before you turn your amp off. I've heard stories of similar pops with amp/preamp sequencing as well. Also, you should be able to connect the left speaker to the sub as well, so that any low information not directly centered in the mix will also be played.
Changing up the poweron sequence eliminated the pop. Thanks!
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Just read your whole saga, what an ordeal! I started out very similar to you, with a sealed sub and two smaller, (X-SLS) speakers. I loved it! I added one dual driver H frame open baffle sub it was a wonderful combination having the SPL power of the sealed unit combined with the texture and tone of the open baffle sub. For me this is a perfect combination. I turn up the sealed sub when I am watching a movie or listening to electronic music for the added heft, ( I have it set so that it doesn't really play above 40Hz). I turn it down when I am listening to jazz or acoustic music.
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I'm just adjusting based on what sounds good... but if I'm doing something wrong with my settings, please do tell me.
Any suggestions, guys?
You have the crossover point set pretty high for those speakers. You might want to dial it back to 50 or so on the dial especially while engaging that second filter at 80Hz.
Also try a lower extension and damping settings. That might improve overall imaging.
I'm definitely going to get some sound treatment going in the room. It needs it.
I bet it needs it indeed.