[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

In the world of Hifi when everything matters.
What are y’all’s thoughts on upgraded wall outlets? What products do you use.
I have tried a Pangea and a monosaudio, the Pangea seemed to refined things in a similar manner to dropping a higher end power cord into the system. Better treble less sibilant and more tactile and punchy bass.
Where else does $100-200 investment yield similar results?
The biggest difficulty i have in gear changes in the setup, is reconciling the need for power cords and interconnects to accompany it; they must be as good as the rest of my system or your just introducing a weak link. So if most switches require 1 or 2 good cables, this often tripling the cost of any component you would use as an upgrade path. This is why I love items like outlets, power cables, cords, and speaker upgrades, because they are singular paths to improvements in your system, that don’t require other adjacent changes to be made to capitalize on the switches or upgrades.
Anyways I digress, what products out there are worth a look.

[BicycleJoe]

Hospital grade
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-8200-HLI-Receptacle-Illuminated-Grounding/dp/B003B92K28/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=NO4D9&pf_rd_p=bbb6bbd8-d236-47cb-b42f-734cb0cacc1f&pf_rd_r=W0FB09G4WKGNKVTP4D3C&pd_rd_r=14512201-9d19-4da6-a7d6-9a2ea7ae4054&pd_rd_wg=hwLFY&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-8300-HR-125-Volt-Receptacle-Grounding/dp/B003ATOLXA/ref=pd_day0fbt_sccl_1/147-5189636-1928656?pd_rd_w=tHeYt&pf_rd_p=bcb8482a-3db5-4b0b-9f15-b86e24acdb00&pf_rd_r=V8A4PW9B0DETK1A44MPM&pd_rd_r=20fb1bfb-14f9-4a18-bf59-53060e0f4cc1&pd_rd_wg=NGuyy&pd_rd_i=B003ATOLXA&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-GFNT1-HGE-Extra-Heavy-Non-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B019A2ZK44/ref=pd_day0fbt_img_sccl_2/147-5189636-1928656?pd_rd_w=tHeYt&pf_rd_p=bcb8482a-3db5-4b0b-9f15-b86e24acdb00&pf_rd_r=V8A4PW9B0DETK1A44MPM&pd_rd_r=20fb1bfb-14f9-4a18-bf59-53060e0f4cc1&pd_rd_wg=NGuyy&pd_rd_i=B019A2ZK44&psc=1

[toocool4]

I use Furutech Rhodium wall sockets.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Furutech-FP-1363-D-Mains-Duplex-Socket-Bronze/dp/B00AWNM09Y/ref=sr_1_2?crid=IAR66ANPC9ZU&keywords=furutech+wall+socket&qid=1653299349&sprefix=furutech%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-2

[Early B.]

Yeah, the "standard" high-end outlet is a Furutech GTX series.

[BicycleJoe]

I'm convinced if you live in an apartment building that the Furutech Rhodium wall sockets are overkill.
But if you live in a private house and can run your own line to the breakers and from there out to the meter with that line upgraded to your houses ground further along to the Electric companies transformer then fine. You can't do any better than that But if you don't do all that they are not going to take away any noise that's already on your line.

This is what you need to do if you are building a recording studio when that's what matters most.

If you can't run your line out all the way then there are many alternatives that cost a fraction.

How about one with pure copper (Rhodium Plated With gold plated fixing Bracket) for $50
Monosaudio Pure Copper Power Wall Mount,20A 125V Audio Outlet Hi End Duplex Receptacle
(Rhodium Plated)

 




https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09HWP5DLS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B09HWP5DLS&pd_rd_w=nG1xn&pf_rd_p=ed02e65e-bf3f-46c8-aedd-152f4fca56ac&pd_rd_wg=MWxGu&pf_rd_r=1EWXEXF7TW2EV3DMFX79&pd_rd_r=1ac2aba3-7d73-4692-84ad-168051f0bbc4&s=hi&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWkc4VkQ1WkVUWkU3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDEyOTY5RlpCRzRVVUVMM0JKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNzI1ODBSV1FRNUNMVUtGODImd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1

[dpatters]

I have a dedicated line feeding Furutech GTX outlet. Triode Wire Labs Silver Statement power cord from outlet to PI Audio fully tricked out UberBUSS.

Don P.

[JLM]

I used 3 cryogenically treated 20 amp hospital grade duplex receptacles, each wired to a dedicated 12 gauge wire back to dedicated 20 amp breakers.  All 3 are grounded together, separately from the rest of the house.  (As the electrician worked on a fixed price bid it cost no extra except for the receptacles.)  The house is served by it's own transformer and we're out in the country with no major industrial customers on our substation. 

[BicycleJoe]

Well I explained the reasoning why such an investment wouldn't pay off for the original poster you folks decided to share exactly what you have in your houses.
That is your living situation and your system but it doesn't address any of his needs.

Having your own house is ideal but wouldn't you agree with me that if you lived in an apartment building it would be a waste of money to buy $200 receptacles. I applaud you guys for having the knowledge to take your systems to the nth degree but!

For someone in that type of living situation a power regenerator or a line conditioner would be the greatest bang for his buck when it comes to creating a reliable clean A/C power source.

Along with a line conditioner or regenerator, a modest audiophile wall socket around $50, which was he is looking for would be a prudent first step for someone on a budget.


Zen Line Conditioner around $1K






Stellar PowerPlant 3 around $1.5K







The original poster is in the process of upgrading his Klipsch 600 M version one speakers. Which was my first clue that he is on a budget.

[nlitworld]

If you're looking at wall outlets and still keeping cost in check, the Cruzaudio Maestro outlet is great. Very neutral and natural sounding, not warm like gold or overly highlighted like rhodium. If I remember right, they should set you back about $90.

[ric]

I personally am not too keen on hospital grade outlets, sonically speaking, but they are better than standard cheap duplex outlets. I did buy the $25 Pangea outlet but unfortunately I have not A/B'ed it so I can't say  anything about it sonically.  For years I have been using Oyaide R-1 and was very impressed with the sound, but recently I tried and own Tweek Geeks Quantum Science Audio (hate the name) outlet and I highly recommend it. I am assuming this is Tweek Geek's brand since no one else sells the product that I know of, BUT, it comes with a money back guarantee (try it for 30 days) as well as applying the cost to one of  the higher priced models. The good thing is that I DID try the higher priced model, and they let me keep both while I did it--I ended up with the more expensive model, but it sounds great.
   The sound I experienced is similar to what he describes on his website--more body to the sound, tighter bass notes, better imaging, it's similar to listening late at night but more so. Other than the price, I've got nothing but good things to say about it.

[S Clark]

Several years back member Big Red Machine built a multi outlet with all of the favorite high end receptacles, and sent it out on tour.  There were clear differences between them, some of which even my wife could hear.   I liked Dave Elledge's receptacle, Porter Port, and Maestro... forgot the ones I thought were not as good. 

[corndog71]

After many years of juggling various power strips I finally decided to build my own.  I modeled mine after Shunyata designs using heavy duty Hubbell outlets.  They’re a little pricy but far more reasonable than fancy audiophile outlets.

I got a spool of 12awg cable with a particular dielectric recommended by another manufacturer and built an entire set of cables for my main rig with them.  I even used the same wire in the power strips.  Out of all my set ups this last one proved to be the best.  It’s just dead quiet and music seems to have a little more jump.

[Bullitt5094]

I stay awake at night wondering what the 20amp breaker in my load center feeding that plug is doing to the quality of my audio. I'm considering rolling circuit breakers to find the best sound. Certainly that's a problem that the aftermarket has missed as an opportunity. Are there any audiophile, rodium, cryo circuit breakers out there? Then there is the fact every brand of Load Center requires a specific breaker. Non-universal. But I'm sure someone is "cryoing" them in their sub-zero and selling them as an upgrade.

Another thought... I have 20AMP dedicated to my load center to a duplex receptacle. So if I put a high end duplex receptacle there, what two things should I plug into it of the 10 or so components that require power? If you put a distribution box after the uber-plug to solve that problem, do you need to build a distribution box with the same quality plug to maintain it's "goodness"?

[Speedskater]

a] Hospital Grade from a major industrial/commercial manufacture is morn than adequate.
b] never 'cryo' anything in the AC power system!  It will void the 'UL' safety listing and may damage the plastic parts.

[S Clark]

I stay awake at night wondering what the 20amp breaker in my load center feeding that plug is doing to the quality of my audio. I'm considering rolling circuit breakers to find the best sound. Certainly that's a problem that the aftermarket has missed as an opportunity. Are there any audiophile, rodium, cryo circuit breakers out there? Then there is the fact every brand of Load Center requires a specific breaker. Non-universal. But I'm sure someone is "cryoing" them in their sub-zero and selling them as an upgrade.

Man, I hope this is tongue in cheek. 

[BicycleJoe]

"Man, I hope this is tongue in cheek."

Man I hope the OP comes back and looks at all the different answers to his question, and find the best answer for himself here

[jrocks29ms@gmail.com]

Cool, very nice to know, i think my purchases are more in line with some other recommendations using a high end Denon and safe to say hot rodded klipsch rp-600m. So yeah a nice college student system. But i dont own. I’m looking for better sound that doesn’t get me in a fight with my landlord over major electrical installations.
I have tried the 50 pangea, blue. But with time the gripping force starts to suck. Especially since my main power cord before using a GR research B-24 was a pangea ac-9 se Mk2. A cable which weighs maybe 15 pounds. It got loose so i am going to try the green pangea. BeCU is suppose to sound as good as copper but much stronger and wont bend like copper.
I have to say i dont think i like my monosaudio compared to the pangea, but there could be any number of things going on there. The internal wall wiring may just be looser somewhere behind the wall to that specific outlet, I haven’t made any very scientific measurements.
It is better than standard contractor outlets. I used it for my tv and sub. My other outlet for my amp and my source.
Going to probably use the blue and green Pangea and if i need a third outlet somewhere else move the monos audio there.

Very cool ideas, what i ponder on now is what makes the most sense in my system upgrade, money spent anywhere would probably help but i am leaning to a source, maybe with a built in dac. Does a premium streamer like this exist?

[corndog71]

Honestly, cables and outlets are the last thing to worry about.  It’s tempting to pick up tweaks because they’re not as costly as the main components.  I would put more of your money into better speakers and then electronics.  As for sources, a raspberry pi is the cheapest solution and can sound quite good but you need a separate dac.  You could start with a Schiit Modi or if you can find one, a used Modi Multibit.  There are plenty of inexpensive options out there.  Keep researching.

[HT1278]

I need to have an outlet behind the TV, 4 gang (group of 4 outlets)for the entertainer center, and a 4 gang for the subwoofer, cs player, turntable and tape deck.

How do I avoint a grounding loop?

Should all of these be on the same leg, or what is the best way to accomplish this?  The TV and entertainment center should be able to be daisy chained outlets since the TV draws very little power.  I am getting a new electrical panel for the whole house but any additional runs of copper for dedicated runs per outlet gets expensive.   Copper is very expensive right now.  Also when running power, speaker wire and HDMi in wall, what can be run near each other and what should be separated due to noise or crosstalk? 

[HT1278]

The grounding loop potential I am referring to is here. 

Not sure if this should be an actual consideration or not.

https://www.techhive.com/article/582313/how-to-get-rid-of-hum-and-eliminate-other-noises-from-your-audio-and-video-systems.html