AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => Planar Circle => Topic started by: Elizabeth on 3 Oct 2018, 04:04 pm
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There is a pdf link to a HIFICRITIC review that Martin Colloms did listed at the bottom of this page:
http://duelundaudio.com/resistors/
from pdf: "CONCLUSIONS
While it’s true to say that we were using a very high
quality test platform, the differences we heard were
greater than expected and led to clear preferences.
Duelund’s mythic reputation was upheld: its products
really do seem to provide the required attenuation
without significantly disturbing the music quality.
(Close tolerance to order.) While slightly coloured,
Mundorf ’s MResist also justified its reputation, this
high specification component holding musical values
essentially intact thanks to exceptional build quality.
One surprise was the higher ranking of the 5W
Mundorf MOX over their 10W example, but it was
also clear that these two were of different construction,
and both are very good value. The Caddock MP series
film sounded familiar, as it should, and certainly had
hi-fi credentials, but was not the test favourite. Close
tolerance values are available for this precision resistor.
Industry generic ceramic wire-wounds do the job
but are unremarkable, with some added subjective
distortions, while the Welwyn W24 warhorse no
longer figures. Found to be rather self-effacing, Vishay’s
Sfernice oxide film type was quite neutral but musically
rather bland."
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I have the 1.0 ohm Duelund "cinnamon sticks" in my Tympani custom X-overs now and they provide an increase
in clarity and sweetness compared to the standard Magnepan cement ones.
Parts Connexion has the 0.75 ohm ones on clearance for a great price.
https://www.partsconnexion.com/DUELUND-70906.html
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The size of resistor is system dependent. The higher you go the with resistance the warmer the sound. To date the most effective brand is Duelund in our experience.
Eliz a suggestion if I may. Using an abrasive cleaner that would scratch the surface may not be prudent. The best connection is with polished connectors. If there are valleys or voids in contact surface less of a solid connection is had. That is why contact enhancers such as Furutech are made. To fill those voids.
I love to read about your experimenting as that is what I do as well. Have fun trying.
charles
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I found that the higher I went with resistors the deader the sound on my 3.7i. All the top end was missing once I got past 1 ohm.
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I found that the higher I went with resistors the deader the sound on my 3.7i. All the top end was missing once I got past 1 ohm.
My findings as well. Living on the edge of transparency and presence one can go a bit too far and be left with lean or bright. A fine line for sure. I chased that sound the wrong way and found it was not the speake [ Maggie at the time ]. It was other things. For me it was the SS preamp with SS amp. Changing to a lush sounding preamp [ Wytek 6SN7 based ] and a richer cable from source problem resolved.
charles
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Everybody's ears, room and system is different but I'm in the no resistor camp.
I tried them and they cut off too much of the highs for me but I also have high frequency hearing loss due to one stupid day being trapped next to a Sears air compressor.
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Everybody's ears, room and system is different but I'm in the no resistor camp.
I tried them and they cut off too much of the highs for me but I also have high frequency hearing loss due to one stupid day being trapped next to a Sears air compressor.
+1
"high frequency hearing loss...." re: 45 years of motorcycle riding....
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Eh?
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As everyone says, it's going to depend on how much HF absorption you have in your room. Wendell likes to point out though that the default is *not* no resistor. He compares that to turning a tweeter level control all the way up.
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All of those additional soldered connections don't alter the sound?
Tried just the 0.75 ohm 5 watt Duelund an they seem fine. Seem not enough capacity just 5 watts.(theoretically) But the Duelund are not even getting a little warm. I am erring on the side of caution though and ordered 6 more. So I can make a 20 watt 0.75 ohm resistor. four in a 2 in series/those pairs in parallel making a 20 watt 0.75 ohm resistor set. Then it will have enough current capability!!!
I have listened to the 0.75 ohm and like it petty much. With those inside, I can adjust LOWER (only... with adding resistance in parallel) than 0.75 with other bits (using the external midrange ports to find the perfect resistance level.
Easy to keep at 0.75, or lower it to 0.65 0.6 0.5 0.4.. anything.. with added single 10 watt Duelund on outside port.Nice too I can just put in the OEM shunt and zero out the resistance to compare, anytime.
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I’m enjoying reading this thread and looking forward to your final conclusions. :popcorn:
But I too am in the no resistor camp. They always seem to hold great promise of happy listening days to come but eventually they always disappoint. IMO, all resistors should be gathered by the truckload then fired out of canon towards Buffalo ... such was my great disapointment. Like Rollo, I had better luck with a new preamp and cables.
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Heh, Wendell Diller at Magenpan would disagree. The way he puts it is that running the speakers with no resistor is like running a speaker with a tweeter level control turned all the way up.
It's really going to depend on the acoustics of your room, of course -- if you have a dead room, you'll want to run without a resistor. The smaller resistor would be for an average room and the larger one for a live one. The only "right" here is what sounds right in your room.
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.... Or use a switch. A switch would add at least one more resistor hanging there, and add in the switch contacts..
Aaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggghhh hhhhhhh!!!!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=189125)
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One bad rabbit. :thumb:
Aren’t they all ...
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I am only writing this stuff because a few people said they like to read about what I am doing to the system.
:popcorn:
:whip:
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It maybe a bit late for your particular quest, but when I was flipping resistors, I ended up with the Path Audio over the Duelands so you may want to give them a go as well once you decide on a resistance level.
Cheers,
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Elizabeth do you get the same sonic result using digital source as opposed to an LP with the resistor changes ? I'm beginning to think you my be looking up the wrong tree.
charles
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After 'breaking in a few more days... I have realized the PATH are better than the Duelund 'overall'.
THe Duelund are superior in the upper registers, in every way, However they also tend to accentuate the upper registers a tiny bit too much. (even for me. and I LIKE the treble a LOT) sort of accentuate the treble and leave the lower mids behind sort of thing.
Where the PATH Audio resistors are more balanced. and allmost as transparent. (and they may get MORE SO as time goes on.
In general I am satisfied.. And my actual work on the midrange resistors is done IMO.
(I am NOT going to give some sort of 'review' of the sound differences beyond what I have written so far)
I have already started planning on my next tweak project.. of wood platform supports, and roller ball etc.. All those in transit.
Wow, that was some extensive research. Sounds like you’re on the right Path now. Not surprised that the Dueland tend to accentuate the upper registers a tiny bit too much, accentuate the treble and leave the lower mids behind. (I have found that most add-on resistors lean in that direction.) Happy,and a bit surprised, to hear the Path are far better than the OEM Maggie transistors.
Good on ya and looking forward to the platform and roller ball experiment. :popcorn:
Best,
Lester
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I'm glad that you were willing to give the Path's a go!! I've enjoyed your resistor thread immensely, very thorough and well written.
Congrats,
Don
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I tried the 1 ohm resistor supplied by magnepan to tone down the tweeter a little in my 1.6's. I did not like the sound. I then tried a 1 ohm Mills resistor and it gave a warm sound but the sound stage was smaller. Although I did not use it for more than 2 hours. I then switched to a Duelund graphite 1.2ohm and the sound was smoother, cleaner with a hint of more transparency and air. I still use it today
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The resistor choice depends on ones systems character to begin with. Magnepan allows for attenuation of the tweeter for "brighter" or "hot" systems by allowing a resistor to be tried to tame tweeter.
My experience on this matter over numerous years of experimentation is that it was NOT the tweeter that needed attention. It was either ones front end or accessories added like power cords or other tonality changing tweaks.
Yes a resistor is an inexpensive way of so called tuning. My thought is look into what else is causing ones dislike of the tweeter. What we found setting up numerous Maggie systems were inferior power products like conditioners, PC, IC's and usually the culprit the speaker cable and jumpers.
With some systems though few the resistor was ALL the Doctor ordered. Not an easy task but fun along the path to Nirvana. Enjoys your journey and look in the right place.
charles