[OzarkTom]

How long does it take to charge?  Do you happen to know how many amp hours does the supplied pack have?
 
Also, are there 24 vdc battery packs with more amp hours you are aware of off the  cuff?  Thanks!

I usually charge it for about three hours.

I was somewhat scared before I sent the amp out on tour. I turned my system on, and it was sounding somewhat flat and unemotional. Aha, the magic is finally gone, I thought.

I went over to unhook everything and lo and behold, I had the battery on charge and the AC power supply hooked up to the amp.

I have been looking at Lithium batteries, but I wish I knew more about them. I would hate to buy an expensive one and it was too much voltage for the amp. I would hate to blow out too many AMR fuses.

[Freo-1]

Tom, 24 volts should be 24 volts regardless of how the battery is made.  (At least, I would hope that would be the case).

[wushuliu]

How long does it take to charge?  Do you happen to know how many amp hours does the supplied pack have?
 
Also, are there 24 vdc battery packs with more amp hours you are aware of off the  cuff?  Thanks!

The 24v battery thing is the thing I would need to figure out if the amps works out. I need a solution that is low maintenance. Aren't there chargers that can stay plugged in 24/7?

[OzarkTom]

The 24v battery thing is the thing I would need to figure out if the amps works out. I need a solution that is low maintenance. Aren't there chargers that can stay plugged in 24/7?

This is low maintenance as far as I have experienced. I ususlly get a full week on the battery running it 2-4 hours per night. I plug the charger in on Sunday night before I go to bed.

But even on amps that you can plug the bettery in 24/7, I still hear a subtle hardness from the AC line. I prefer a no charger hook up to the amp for the best sound.

And Freo-1, it seems that many of the Lithiums puts out 25-27V. I am going to still try one as soon as I can. Those that say capacitor banks improves the sound hooked up to a battery, I am anxious to try that out too.

[wushuliu]

This is low maintenance as far as I have experienced. I ususlly get a full week on the battery running it 2-4 hours per night. I plug the charger in on Sunday night before I go to bed.

But even on amps that you can plug the bettery in 24/7, I still hear a subtle hardness from the AC line. I prefer a no charger hook up to the amp for the best sound.

And Freo-1, it seems that many of the Lithiums puts out 25-27V. I am going to still try one as soon as I can. Those that say capacitor banks improves the sound hooked up to a battery, I am anxious to try that out too.

Thanks Tom. You're using 2x 5Amp 12v, right? (sorry too lazy to read thread over).

[DaveC113]

Makes me wonder if a dedicated outboard linear power supply would also work well?

I could not tell the difference between a battery and a good linear PS in my digital amp. Both were huge improvements over the stock switching PS.

I guess that's one way to save $ building an amp... don't include a decent power supply.   

@Ozark Tom, I think the best way to do batter power is probably going to be a LiFePO4 battery at 25.6 V with a voltage regulator set at 24V and some output capacitance. The voltage regulator shouldn't get too hot shunting 1.6V out of 25.6... You would need to build a simple circuit for the voltage regulator and cap bank, unfortunately, I am not enough of an expert to draw up a schematic for you, but I'm sure you can find what you need at diyaudio.

An alternative would be to buy strictly 12V batteries like the motorcycle battery I linked to and a cap bank with no voltage regulator. Usually 12V auto batteries put out ~12.4V so you'd get just under 25V which will probably be ok, especially if you've already been running it with 2 12V SLA batteries already.

[OzarkTom]

Thanks Tom. You're using 2x 5Amp 12v, right? (sorry too lazy to read thread over).

Right.

[OzarkTom]

I could not tell the difference between a battery and a good linear PS in my digital amp. Both were huge improvements over the stock switching PS.

I guess that's one way to save $ building an amp... don't include a decent power supply.   

@Ozark Tom, I think the best way to do batter power is probably going to be a LiFePO4 battery at 25.6 V with a voltage regulator set at 24V and some output capacitance. The voltage regulator shouldn't get too hot shunting 1.6V out of 25.6... You would need to build a simple circuit for the voltage regulator and cap bank, unfortunately, I am not enough of an expert to draw up a schematic for you, but I'm sure you can find what you need at diyaudio.

An alternative would be to buy strictly 12V batteries like the motorcycle battery I linked to and a cap bank with no voltage regulator. Usually 12V auto batteries put out ~12.4V so you'd get just under 25V which will probably be ok, especially if you've already been running it with 2 12V SLA batteries already.

For some, like the Posituve Feedback review said, the amp does sound good with the AC switching suppy. The TNT review said it beats the Dayens Ampino and I can vouch for that since I had one here at the time with the Murdorph oil cap and Alps volume control mods. And Jan at TBI encourages anyone to mod the amp to your liking.

But on my system, the battery improves it by about 40%, and that is quite a bit by my standards.

Jan also encouraged me to try that 24V K2 Energy Lithium battery, he feels that it will not blow the fuse. But since I only need about 5 watts to blow my head off, I might try this 12V first since it is only $95 on Ebay.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/370502992418?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

[DaveC113]

Jan also encouraged me to try that 24V K2 Energy Lithium battery, he feels that it will not blow the fuse. But since I only need about 5 watts to blow my head off, I might try this 12V first since it is only $95 on Ebay.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/370502992418?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Yeah, that's similar to the motorcycle battery I linked to and about the same price. Check out and see what charger it needs, the battery I linked to can use a smart SLA charger which you probably already own, so that might save you some $ if the one on ebay requires you to buy a charger.

Also, I don't consider a switching supply "decent". Maybe for some, but since you have experienced the huge upgrade a better PS can make you know.

[wushuliu]

In my case I would need permanent power - the gf would not appreciate batteries need charge in the middle of a tv show and I won't always remember to charge. I have had good experiences with beefy smps like connexelectronic and I have heard equally good things about the meanwell supplies when it comes to audio so may opt for those instead...that or always attached trickle charger on batteries.

[Freo-1]

For some, like the Posituve Feedback review said, the amp does sound good with the AC switching suppy. The TNT review said it beats the Dayens Ampino and I can vouch for that since I had one here at the time with the Murdorph oil cap and Alps volume control mods. And Jan at TBI encourages anyone to mod the amp to your liking.

But on my system, the battery improves it by about 40%, and that is quite a bit by my standards.

Jan also encouraged me to try that 24V K2 Energy Lithium battery, he feels that it will not blow the fuse. But since I only need about 5 watts to blow my head off, I might try this 12V first since it is only $95 on Ebay.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/370502992418?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

 
Tom, I think you being kind to the AC power supply.  To date, with my system, the battery is closer to 80 to 90 per cent improvement in performance (it’s that dramatic).  The difference in soundstage, clarity, 3D, and HF is remarkable.  On the battery, vocals remind me of a good tube SET, while on the AC, not so hot.
 
I’m still wondering if a well designed linear power supply would work as well.  I think it would need a lot of filtering, but could be worth looking into for those who do not want to mess around with occasionally charging a battery.
 
I’ll be submitting a more detailed review at the end of the week, but so far, the amp on the battery has FAR exceeded expectations, and I would heartily recommend to anyone who has a low power system setup to give it a serious audition. 

[DaveC113]

I’m still wondering if a well designed linear power supply would work as well.  I think it would need a lot of filtering, but could be worth looking into for those who do not want to mess around with occasionally charging a battery.
 

I got an old linear PS with 12V and 5V taps and it was indistinguishable from an Optima yellow top with a bank of electrolytic and film caps when powering my t amp.

With either PS, the internal resistance of the PS will mostly be determined by the caps... in my amp, I replaced the last electrolytic in the PS with a Mundorf M-Tube Cap ($50 film cap vs. $2 electrolytic) and the difference in dynamics and bass was not subtle. So IMO, either a battery PS or a linear PS could be better, it just depends on the parts used....

I see battery power as being a kind of "shortcut" to rectification, voltage regulation and filtering, although I'd guess in the best examples (probably RWA power supplies) there is probably voltage regulation and filtering after the battery too.

[Rclark]

lots of praise, looking forward to hearing these.

[srb]

If there's a linear AC power supply that is equal to a battery, I would prefer it.  It's just one more battery that either ends up in a landfill or even if properly disposed, requires recyling of hazardous materials.

Batteries are nice for portable applications when an AC source isn't available, but for stationary components I'm all for a well designed linear supply.

Steve

[wushuliu]

 
Tom, I think you being kind to the AC power supply.  To date, with my system, the battery is closer to 80 to 90 per cent improvement in performance (it’s that dramatic).  The difference in soundstage, clarity, 3D, and HF is remarkable.  On the battery, vocals remind me of a good tube SET, while on the AC, not so hot.
 
I’m still wondering if a well designed linear power supply would work as well.  I think it would need a lot of filtering, but could be worth looking into for those who do not want to mess around with occasionally charging a battery.
 
I’ll be submitting a more detailed review at the end of the week, but so far, the amp on the battery has FAR exceeded expectations, and I would heartily recommend to anyone who has a low power system setup to give it a serious audition.

Which speakers are you using?

I have most of the parts needed to whip up a basic linear power supply. I'll see if I can do a comparison.

[OzarkTom]

Here is a good source on power supplies. Jan at TBI says that this is the place they use.
http://www.batteryspace.com/

The only problem with using an AC power supply with this amp, it is so revealing that battery will probably win out every time.

[munosmario]

Here is a good source on power supplies. Jan at TBI says that this is the place they use.
http://www.batteryspace.com/

The only problem with using an AC power supply with this amp, it is so revealing that battery will probably win out every time.

You are absolutely right OT. That is always the case with extremely revealing components (as I learned from my long experience in the search of the best phono stage), unless one goes the power regeneration route which is what I eventually did (I own three quality units from reputable manufacturers serving my three systems: 1 from PS Audio and 2 from Pure Power). Although seemingly expensive, as one continuously improve all components in one's system(s), constantly adding ever more revealing pieces, the need/desire/quest for the best battery power supply possible--for each one of those revealing components—at the end, implies an even more expensive proposition (not to mention the cost/chore of replacing and disposing all those batteries). Of course, quality AC power supplies in the components are a must to begin with so that the regenerated power can fully show its virtues.

Mario

[Freo-1]

Which speakers are you using?

I have most of the parts needed to whip up a basic linear power supply. I'll see if I can do a comparison.

 
I’m using Cary Audio Silver Oak Model One Speakers.  They are a two way crossed over at 3 KHz, with each speaker sporting a pair of SEAS Excel Magnesium drivers, and a SEAS Excel silk dome tweeter. They are a very easy load to drive.  Also am using a Genesis G 928 subwoofer, which helps out the bottom end quite a bit.

[Rclark]

 I'm not so sure about the battery winning out every time. I have a cdp plugged into the wall, and then I have that going into a battery powered LDR attenuator, and that into a battery powered Virtue Two.2. I'm all batterie'd up. In a few days I'll have the Ncores with their advanced switching supply, that by accounts, is so good it doesn't even need power conditioning. So I'll be listening as truthfully as I can, I'll be listening hard to see if a battery powered supply is the best no matter what.

 I also have a Linear supply I can compare to as well.

 Looking forward to hearing this TBI, but maybe some of you more technical people can answer this: It appears to me, if this TBI is an indication, that Tripath amps sound better the less wattage you force from them. Because otherwise there's no reason why this TBI has to only be 32 watts. The Virtue is probably just as tiny, but pumps out nearly twice that amount. I will of course, compare those two amps, the Virtue and the TBI (probably the fairest, most apples to apples comparison of this shootout).

[wushuliu]

I'm not so sure about the battery winning out every time. I have a cdp plugged into the wall, and then I have that going into a battery powered LDR attenuator, and that into a battery powered Virtue Two.2. I'm all batterie'd up. In a few days I'll have the Ncores with their advanced switching supply, that by accounts, is so good it doesn't even need power conditioning. So I'll be listening as truthfully as I can, I'll be listening hard to see if a battery powered supply is the best no matter what.

 I also have a Linear supply I can compare to as well.

 Looking forward to hearing this TBI, but maybe some of you more technical people can answer this: It appears to me, if this TBI is an indication, that Tripath amps sound better the less wattage you force from them. Because otherwise there's no reason why this TBI has to only be 32 watts. The Virtue is probably just as tiny, but pumps out nearly twice that amount. I will of course, compare those two amps, the Virtue and the TBI (probably the fairest, most apples to apples comparison of this shootout).

There are different tripath chips with different specs and requirements from 8w to 300w and higher(2024/20,2022,2050,3020,etc). If you mean the the 2050 that I believe the Virtue uses I have not read about anyone using them at lower power (probably because one could just as well use the other lower power chips like TA2024). Hifimediy does sell a low power 2050 now though.

Because otherwise there's no reason why this TBI has to only be 32 watts.

?