HT3 Question

martyo · « **on:** 27 Nov 2007, 10:36 am »

Are the HT3's fused? In the few pictures I've seen of the back of the speakers I don't recall ever seeing any fuses.

Thanks

Gordy · « **Reply #1 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 10:51 am »

No Martyo, there are no fuses in the HT-3's!

Edit: However, if you do blow a tweeter, it's a $5.00 user replacable part!

martyo · « **Reply #2 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 11:13 am »

Thanks Gordy. I think I will get a couple to have on hand "just in case".

95bcwh · « **Reply #3 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 11:15 am »

You mean the tweeter only cost $5????

Quote from: Gordy on 27 Nov 2007, 10:51 am

No Martyo, there are no fuses in the HT-3's!

Edit: However, if you do blow a tweeter, it's a $5.00 user replacable part!

martyo · « **Reply #4 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 12:23 pm »

No. When I went to the tweeter site it looked like they were around $200 bucks. It must be some kind of protection within the tweeter itself.

I've finished reading all the Salk threads and whatever else I run across regarding the HT3's, and there is still a month to wait.............I'll have more questions I'm sure.

Philistine · « **Reply #5 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 02:31 pm »

My amp kicks out over 500 watts and starts to go nuclear before my HT3's break sweat

- with regular use its highly unlikely the drivers will take any damage. I wouldn't bother with driver spares, if you do have an accident I'm sure Jim will come to the rescue.

JoshK · « **Reply #6 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 02:39 pm »

Its the ribbon in the tweeter which costs $5. Its a *bit* fragile and can be damaged from an amp clipping, or blowing hard on the ribbon. But the tweeter's cost is not in the ribbon, it is the magnet system that is costly. The ribbon itself can be somewhat easily replaced when damaged.

DMurphy · « **Reply #7 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 02:47 pm »

Well, it's more like a $10 part--really $20 because you have to buy a pair. They're the ribbon elements themselves. Just strips of tin foil, basically. Although they're easy to blow during testing when they're being driven full range, once the crossover is in place you would really have to work at stretching them. The amp or the walls would probably go first. In any event, they have to be replaced by someone with experience and testing gear to make sure the ribbon element is tensioned perfectly and not touching the sides.

95bcwh · « **Reply #8 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 02:51 pm »

Now you guys are making me scared...

I think if my ribbon is damaged, it's probably easier for me to take the whole tweeter out and ship it to Jim for replacement..

martyo · « **Reply #9 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 03:05 pm »

Quote

Quote from: JoshK on 27 Nov 2007, 02:39 pm
Its the ribbon in the tweeter which costs $5. Its a *bit* fragile and can be damaged from an amp clipping, or blowing hard on the ribbon. But the tweeter's cost is not in the ribbon, it is the magnet system that is costly. The ribbon itself can be somewhat easily replaced when damaged.

Interesting, from blowing hard on it.

Okay more posts.
Thanks Dennis. The Carvers I have now, don't know if they are "true" ribbons, seem to be indestructible under normal circumstances. (When I first got them I had problems and the ribbons were eventually replaced, but it was from a band playing through them.

)

Most likely I'll have more questions while I'm waiting.

Jim, I won't be using the HT3's for guitar speakers.

JoshK · « **Reply #10 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 04:19 pm »

Quote from: martyo on 27 Nov 2007, 03:05 pm

Interesting, from blowing hard on it.

Don't ask me how I know.

I had some similar tweeters in another pair of speakers and I got dust on the ribbon from modding them. I blew hard on the ribbon to get the dust off before I thought it through.

Oops. Had to replace them. They aren't super easy to replace in my opinion but weren't entirely difficult either. You have to have a lot of patience and a steady hand and follow the instructions carefully.

But like Dennis said, I wouldn't be too worried about ruining the tweeter while playing your speakers. You'd have to send your amp into heavy clipping and loud levels for a sustained period of time to do damage to the ribbon and your ears would probably give up first.

TF1216 · « **Reply #11 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 04:26 pm »

If one wants to try and replace the tweeter ribbon on their own, here is a good link to check out:

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm

Near the bottom, find the words "Fountek JP3 ribbon replacement". I would suggest replacing the ribbons in both tweeters for matching purposes.

martyo · « **Reply #12 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 04:36 pm »

Josh, I think I remember reading about that on another circle when I was researching other speakers.

martyo · « **Reply #13 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 04:48 pm »

Thanks for the link, I read it. There are some things I would attempt to DIY, but probably not this one. Hope I never have to make that decision. I'd rather just listen.

jsalk · « **Reply #14 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 05:41 pm »

In terms of blowing a tweeter, this is not very likely in normal use. I have only seen it happen a few times when significant surges (perhaps caused by lightening) ran through the system.

Keep in mind that the G2 tweeter needs to be padded down significantly to match the level of the W18. So you are probably more likely to blow the W18 before you blow the tweeter by driving it too hard. I have had no incidents of this ever happening.

The only other thing I am aware of that can damage the tweeter is a strong blast of air. When moving them outdoors, I always cover the tweeter with tape to prevent damage from strong winds.

I had one customer who wanted to dust his speaker with a vacuum cleaner. All went well until he vacuumed out the inside of the tweeter. Of course, this immediately stretched the ribbon element. He sent me the tweeter, I replace the ribbon and sent it back to him. No problem. He promised not to vacuum the tweeters any more.

Dennis is right in terms of cost. The replacement ribbon elements are $10 each and it takes about 20 minutes to install them properly (not too hard, but a lot easier when you have done a few).

- Jim

martyo · « **Reply #15 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 05:53 pm »

Hi Jim, thanks for the info.

I'll start working on my question for tomorrow.

DMurphy · « **Reply #16 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 06:19 pm »

"...and it takes about 20 minutes to install them properly (not too hard, but a lot easier when you have done a few)."

Easy for YOU to say. You know how to do stuff. But I could actually replace one in a reasonable amount of time if I had some nonmagnetic tweezers (like the instructions suggest.) I've never been able to track down a pair. Does anyone know where I can get some tweezers that don't impale themselves on the G2 faceplate if you bring them into the same room? Thanks.

martyo · « **Reply #17 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 06:32 pm »

Dennis,

I just did a quick google: http://www.tedpella.com/twzr-aq.htm

Christmas is coming.......

DMurphy · « **Reply #18 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 07:02 pm »

Thanks I vaguely recall ordering a pair that claimed to be nonmagnetic, but they still made a bee-line for the G2. I wonder whether these puppies are really up to the test. The G2 magnet is unbelievably strong. But it wouldn't hurt to put them on my Xmas list.

martyo · « **Reply #19 on:** 27 Nov 2007, 07:36 pm »

It looks like they make the distinction between non-magnetic and stainless steel. A lot of stainless is magnetic. These are medical for using with MRI's, I think the first one is really non-magnetic.