Bridging amplifiers

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Roger A. Modjeski

Bridging amplifiers
« on: 2 Oct 2007, 03:56 am »
Hi,

Is my circle falling asleep?  I hope this topic will drum up some interest. Below is the answer to a customer's request to make a stereo RM-200 into a mono. Although solid state amplifiers are normally bridged into mono, the same does not apply to tube amplifiers. I thought you might want to know why. Your questions and comments will be appreciated.

I can certainly convert to mono any of my amplifiers here at the factory.  Tube amps are not like transistor amps and the term "bridging" only applies to transistor amps. When transistor amps are "bridged" the input of one channel is inverted and the load is connected across the hots. When drawn out on paper one can put the speaker horizontally across the hots as if they were ends of a bridge and the speaker is the platform between them. To my knowledge this is how the term came into being.

This weekend I have been working on the latest run of RM-200's and looking at options to make them into good performing mono amps. The advantage of bridging has a lot to do with your speaker impedance. What is the impedance range you plan to work in and what kind of speaker sensitivity do you imagine will be employed?

In general when we MONO a stereo tube amp the power is indeed doubled (you get the total of the two channels) but the tap impedances are cut in half. So you put the 4 ohm speaker on the 8 ohm taps to get the full power. If you happen to have an 8 ohm speaker you will not get twice the power though you will get twice the current.

One often overlooked problem in connecting stereo tube amps to mono is the need for critical gain matching within a few tenths of a dB. If not gain matched the two channels will fight each other. Dynaco solved this problem by requiring two power resistors in series with each 8 ohm output. Of course, that shoots the damping factor in the foot. They did put a mono switch on the front, but that only monos the inputs. I'm not sure why they even bothered as it only does half the job.

The RM-10 is the best stereo/mono amp I know of. I did the mono switching in a new way and a toggle switch on the back takes care of everything. Mono into 8 ohms is about 45 watts but into 4 you get the full 70 watts.

To mono a tube amp properly the best I can think of will require moving a lot of wires to other places. Too many for a single switch to handle.

Roger

bullwnkl999

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 10
Re: Bridging amplifiers
« Reply #1 on: 3 Oct 2007, 07:19 am »
Quote
In general when we MONO a stereo tube amp the power is indeed doubled (you get the total of the two channels) but the tap impedances are cut in half. So you put the 4 ohm speaker on the 8 ohm taps to get the full power. If you happen to have an 8 ohm speaker you will not get twice the power though you will get twice the current.

Hi, Roger -

Two questions:

1) Since the EM7-12v is rated at 12 watts, more than double the five of the EM7-5.0, I assume it is not a "mono'd" version of the stereo amp, but a different design?

2) What, if any, is the relationship between current and damping factor?

Although my Tannoy DMT 15 IIs are high efficiency designs (98dB in half space, 8 ohms) more than one person has suggested that they would be better served with a high current design than an SET, although Harvey Rosenberg loved them with SETs.

Thanks!

Mark

Roger A. Modjeski

Re: Bridging amplifiers
« Reply #2 on: 5 Oct 2007, 08:16 am »
1. You are correct, the 12 watt has a different driver. Because it is a mono I have two driver sections to play with. The first is the gain stage and the second a direct-coupled cathode follower as I have employed in several of my designs (RM-200, RM-300, 245.1 and RM-9 Special Edition).

2. Good question! Actually there is no intrinsic relation between current and damping factor. An op-amp can have very high damping (low output impedance) but not be able to provide much current (20 mA. typically). Another amplifier could provide 60 amps and still have poor damping.

Now I suppose I should say where damping comes from. It is most easily obtained by use of feedback, lots of feedback as in amplifiers that have damping in the hundreds. The current they can supply is an independent factor and the damping will be unchanged till the current limit is reached. Then they fold up the tent and go home.

Triodes have long been recognized for their high inherent damping factor which is available without any feedback at all. I chose the 13EM7 tube because its plate resistance is a very low 750 ohms. That's about the same as a 300B and 3 times lower than the 6DN7 that Bottlehead uses. It also happens that the gain and transconductance of the EM7 are very close to the 300B also. Within it's rating it behaves like a 300B. One could well consider this a low cost alternative which is attractive from the initial cost and cost of replacement tubes that are 1/5 to 1/10 the price of a 300B.

This 750 ohm plate resistance is coupled to the speaker via the output transformer and becomes 2 ohms as the speaker sees it. The damping factor for an 8 ohm speaker is 4: (DF = speaker impedance/output impedance). A pentode, on the other hand, has high plate resistance  (33,000 ohms for a 6L6) resulting in a damping factor of 0.15. That's no damping at all. Obviously feedback must be used to bring the damping to a reasonable level. Even though the damping of the 6L6 is poor, it will still deliver the same power whether the damping is increased by feedback or not. This is a tough concept to get a hold on as it seems counter intuitive, but it is as it is. For anyone who wants to check my math  I am assuming a 25 to 1 tranformer which has an impedance ration of 625/1 (it's late and the numbers are close enough to make the point but bring it to my attention if you see something funny).

What will be most noticeably different about the triode amp and the pentode amp is that the output voltage will rise a some 40 dB when the load is removed while the triode amp will rise only a few dB. Given that the output voltage is now controlled by the speaker impedance the actual voltage that drives the speaker will follow all the peaks and dips of the impedance curve of that speaker. If the impedance of the speaker doubles, the response will go up 6 db. This will help explain why amplifiers with very low damping sound so different on some speakers and not so much on others.

Note that we are not "matching" the output impedance of the amp to the speaker impedance. We actually want the output impedance to be as low as possible regardless of the load impedance. I have read all too many articles where the writer is arguing for matching  based on the equation for maximum power transfer that Edison used when he had generators that were less than 50% efficient. That equation says you can suck the most power out of a battery or generator when the generator impedance and load impedance are equal. It also implies an efficiency of less than 50%. That concept is long out of date for efficient power systems and was never applicable to amplifiers.

One other point that we should keep in mind. What about the output impedance of the amplifier that the speaker designer used to tune his speaker? Most speaker designers are going to use an amp with reasonable damping because once the damping factor of an amp is over 10 taking it to 1000 makes little difference. But if he designed his speaker using an amplifier of low damping (less than 4) his speaker's response will be as intended only on an amplifier with that same damping factor. I don't think that's a good way to design a speaker.

When I lived in Richmond, VA there was a write-up in the local paper about a "new concept in speaker technology". When I went to visit the company they explained they had a totally new way of driving a speaker. While the accepted practice was to drive with a voltage source they had found a "revolutionary new concept". They drove the speaker with a current source, which of course, has no damping at all. They didn't care, they just knew it sounded very different and they thought that alone was revolutionary and that everyone who had come before them had overlooked this very important concept. Unfortunately, they didn't know good sound from bad.

bullwnkl999

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 10
Re: Bridging amplifiers
« Reply #3 on: 6 Oct 2007, 07:20 pm »
Thank you, Roger!  Although we have spoken and corresponded on several occasions, I am really looking forward to meeting you face-to-face at the debut of your ESLs in Phoenix...

Mark Fish

hartwerger

Re: Bridging amplifiers
« Reply #4 on: 14 Oct 2007, 06:33 pm »
Are there any differences b/w the RM-10 MKI and MKII that are significant for bridging purposes? In other words, should an MKI only be bridged with another MKI, or can it be bridged with an MKI or MKII?  Sorry if I am not knowledgeable enough to ask this question on the correct technical level.