[MPSchenck]

Hello Everybody!

I'm just waiting to get my Omegas and I'm trying to get my speaker cables in order.  I'm going to order some non-plated "C14500 Tellurium 93% IACS Copper" Furez low mass (or BFA) bananas for the amp end because the amp will ONLY accept bananas.  So what about the speaker end?  I had a look around the Omega site and didn't find any info on the speaker jacks, but they look like they are at least banana, spade, and bare wire friendly.

So what do you Omega folks use and why (recommended brands are ok as well)? 

[DBC]

Hello Everybody!

I'm just waiting to get my Omegas and I'm trying to get my speaker cables in order.  I'm going to order some non-plated "C14500 Tellurium 93% IACS Copper" Furez low mass (or BFA) bananas for the amp end because the amp will ONLY accept bananas.  So what about the speaker end?  I had a look around the Omega site and didn't find any info on the speaker jacks, but they look like they are at least banana, spade, and bare friendly.

So what do you Omega folks use and why (recommended brands are ok as well)?

I'm sure you will get many different opinions on this one. Personally I have used Bare ends for the last 10 years. I had a pair of Kimber 4TC speaker wires with Banana terminations for a few years that never really floated my boat. I would rotate them into my system once in a while but always went to something else. Finally one day I cut off the Banana terminations (which were not cheap) and these were completely different wires.

If you read much about wires a lot is discussed about the best sounding termination methods. I just decided no more terminations just bare wire (one more potential variable eliminated). Bare wire can be a pain if you switch gear a lot.

[hdrider]

I also had Kimber 8TC that I used when I had my amp between the speakers (Zen 2watter and Moscode 300 maxi) with bare wire. I now have electronics and sources in the closet and am running StraightWire Super Quad 11/4 so two wires directly drive the Rachael amp to 7XRS and two wires will run the Omega 8'' sub when it arrives. Bare is best in my opinion. Let us know your findings when you get everything up and sorted out. Happy listening, Chris.

[FullRangeMan]

As Omega is a FR no xover he ask the speaker cable solded direct at the drivers terminals, so you should by pass the rear box terminals, too avoid fat speaker cables.
Use no lead silver solder, and save the connectors value.

[MPSchenck]

As Omega is a FR no xover he ask the speaker cable solded direct at the drivers terminals, so you should by pass the rear box terminals, too avoid fat speaker cables.
Use no lead silver solder, and save the connectors value.

It's my understanding that solder, even silver solder, is a poor conductor.  It just works well for electrical, and therefore audio, applications because it kind of molecularly bonds metals together. 
In any case I don't think I'm going to break into my Omegas and go soldering wires directly to the driver terminals.

[FullRangeMan]

It's my understanding that solder, even silver solder, is a poor conductor.  It just works well for electrical, and therefore audio, applications because it kind of molecularly bonds metals together. 
In any case I don't think I'm going to break into my Omegas and go soldering wires directly to the driver terminals.

The terminals/internal wiring have solder inside the box.
The same with the driver/internal wiring.
When there is a xover things are worse.

[MPSchenck]

The terminals/internal wiring have solder inside the box.
The same with the driver/internal wiring.

I suppose that's true, but I'm still not cracking a new set of Omegas open to solder the wires directly to the speaker terminals.

[FullRangeMan]

I suppose that's true, but I'm still not cracking a new set of Omegas open to solder the wires directly to the speaker terminals.

This is understandable.

[hdrider]

I will not go so far as to directly solder my wires to my drivers but, I did bypass the wire in my Fidelity Research FR-64S tonearm years ago with some .005'' diameter (.008'' with the insulation) 99.99% medical grade (cardio)wire from the cartridge pins to Eichmann RCA and that made a very discernable, audible difference which proved to me that the fewer connections the better. 

[Audiophile58]

Bare wire is the purest but over time can oxidize .the terrelium Copper in spades would be very good
Just wrap electrical tape where the wire goes in to eliminate any air getting in there.the thinner the contact the better copper gold,bronze gold rhodium can be a bit bright.silver  is ok also. Keep it simple.
I treat all my connections with pure Gold,silver  Nano fluid from Furutech. I took cheap thin brass gold plated connectors then applied this fluid bettered connectors that were over $100 a pair the signal rides mainly on the outside
The inside connecting wire rides from the inside out .  The nano fluid is $160 for a little bottle but ladts forever.
I use a dryer to the liquid fills the pours of the outer metal it works excellent .
I have spent well over $1,000 gor interconnects and speaker cables. 
Markup is 15-20 x the cost in name brand cables.    Parts express way 10'twidted OFC Copper fantastic speaker  cable wire buy their connectors crimp,then apply the nana fluid .$1500 set of cables
For $60 gor the cables.the nano fluid is the most costly item. I have spent over $10,000 for a system of cables and power cords ,and owned a hifi shop. I do know about the whole marketing system
Thst being said there are many good commercial cables but $$

[JLM]

I've got banana at the amp and direct at the driver with tension relief (rope caulk) at the back of the cabinet (typically my 7 foot long rather light weight speaker cables hang inches off the floor).  Drives my purist ways crazy when I open up the speaker and find simple light gauge wire between my wonderful single driver and the nice speaker cable that I sweated and researched for.  Occasionally speaker manufacturers use boutique internal speaker cabling, but are they the brand you would have selected?  (And you'd still have the extra connections/materials of the posts.)

I didn't vote.  Optimal connection probably depends more on construction of the posts and your particular situation.  Have always liked the posts that have metal hex heads that can be wrench tightened.  Many high-end applications (just attended Axpona audio show) use spades that probably make the best electrical contact (how much of the bare wire is really making contact at the post?), but I never have owned them   .  Getting a reliable connection when working in the typical dark/cramped spaces or where "busy" conditions can result in speaker cables getting yanked on is a prime consideration.  Are the speaker cables heavy and will there be hanging significant hanging weight?  Nowadays tiny equipment is popular and room for "sideways" connections (spades/bare wire) binding posts at the amp is minimal.  Some speakers put the binding posts in recessed "cups" that also make "sideways" connections difficult.  Overall bananas are the most fool proof, easiest, most convenient, and ensures the best physical solution but probably offer the worst electrical connection.  I'd vote against bare wire due to questionable connections (reliable electrical contact and strength).

[Audiophile58]

This another reason I love Omega speakers, not only are the cabinets custom engineered per driver,
As well as each driver .the internal hook up wire is Supra AWG 15 - 4-9s OFC Copper and Tin plated to eliminate
Future oxidation.very good well balanced wire. I used that exact same wire for Loudspeaker modifications  when upgrading  Xovers,and wiring In the  Past. Louis designs and Engineers very Good as well as having a good  Ear !!

[steve f]

Worrying about the type of connector is pointless. Relax. Just make sure the connector is reasonably tight. If you want to worry about oxidation, remake the connection twice a year.

[sunnydaze]

......... I'd vote against bare wire due to questionable connections (reliable electrical contact and strength).

That may be true in theory, but in my case, not in reality.

For speaker cables I use Morrow Audio.  Recently, I jumped down three models and got better sound by simply eliminating connectors on the speaker end (amp end has connectors).  I went from SP5 w / BFA bananas to SP2  w/ bare wire.

Hard to imagine, but less is more, I guess.   

Based on this, I'd also like to eliminate connectors on amp end, but I run two sets of cables to each sprkr and I'm not able to securely attach two bare ends to each amp output post. 

I've no idea if what I'm hearing is  brand specific,  but I recommend that Morrow users try this.  To my ear, the effect is not subtle.  While I don't deny the effects of cable changes - I hear them for myself -- I tend to be a bit of a doubter by nature and not big on subtle tweaks, nor prone to be swayed by psycho-acoustical effects.

PS:   I now use double runs SP4, bare wire at speaker ends.  Nice improvement over bare wire SP2.

[Devil Doc]

I use ultra-sonically welded bananas. Eliminates the solder problem.

Doc

[DaveC113]

The only bananas I use are pure copper with locking mechanisms, they are more expensive but don't negatively affect the sound. Pure copper spades tend to be less expensive and perform about the same. Bare wire sounds about the same as a cable with high quality connectors but it is less convenient and there are usually issues with corrosion so the sound will get worse over time unless you keep the contact area clean.

[sunnydaze]

.......Bare wire sounds about the same as a cable with high quality connectors.......

I thought exactly the same, till my recent experience.

Are BFA bananas considered "quality" connectors?  I'm not up on all the techno speak -- just a simple man who trusts his ears.  But purely from an ease of use perspective, they are my favorite connectors.

[Canada Rob]

Zenwave cables (DaveC113) makes a very good cable that is voiced with Omega speakers.  A no brainer IMO. 

[DaveC113]

I thought exactly the same, till my recent experience.

Are BFA bananas considered "quality" connectors?  I'm not up on all the techno speak -- just a simple man who trusts his ears.  But purely from an ease of use perspective, they are my favorite connectors.

No, BFA are brass tubes... they are cheap and convenient but not the best sound quality. Copper is too soft to use like BFA so they must lock, which also makes them more complicated and expensive.

[sunnydaze]

No, BFA are brass tubes... they are cheap and convenient but not the best sound quality. Copper is too soft to use like BFA so they must lock, which also makes them more complicated and expensive.

Could explain why my SQ improved when eliminating my BFA's,  despite "downgrading" the cable.  I guess.