[Outofthewoods]

I got hold of the carpenter who also works for a Chennai based speaker maker. He is confused about the measurements provided in the 'box plans. For example, in the box plan of the X-LS front baffle the tweeter hole is written as 3.125" and the countersink is 3.93". The depth of the countersink is mentioned as .18". I tried explaining using the markings on the inch tape but couldn't. Can someone translate these into readable numbers like 3 1/4 inch and measurements like that.

Hi Rajesh,

This will help.

http://www.seoconsultants.com/charts/inches-decimal/

Best,

Ruben

[rajesh]

Thank you guys for your help. He still seems confused so I have volunteered to mark the cuts for him and he will take care of the rest.

BTW, is it ok to do plain cuts or should I ask him to make dovetail joints, if not for X or A/V kits, at least for the subwoofers.

[Hank]

That's Danny's call since he is the customer.  But I can say as a many year speaker builder that dovetail joints are definitely not needed for strength.  If cabinet panels are cut perfect with 90 degree cuts, then butt joints are plenty strong.

[srb]

Dovetail joints are not a great idea for MDF as its easier to break off a piece of the dovetail.  If you just want a little something more than a butt joint (but as mentioned previously, not really needed), you can have him either butt joint with biscuits or use a lap joint which can give a little extra glue area.

Steve

[jcotner]

If you're really hung up about a stronger joint, these router bits will work in MDF.

http://www.freudtools.com/popup.aspx?src=images/product/large/193.jpg

I've used them before and they work. Don't know you really need them.

Another option is to use dowels and butt joints.
Veneer will cover them up.

[rajesh]

Thank you Hank, Steve and Jcotner for your replies. Since I was not familiar with the terms used, I had used Google to figure how they look and are done.

Here in India, small time carpenters do not have access to such exotic power tools. They have basic stuff like a hand saw, jack/smoothing planes, wood splitting wedge, Carpenter square, Hammer and screw driver and other such nicknacks. Those with small workshops have stuff like power saws and work benches. Stuff like routers and circular jigs are available only with select few.

Yes I'm hung up on a stronger joint; given the circumstances, I'm inclining towards half/lap joint, which I had seen someone using somewhere.

[sfox7076]

I want to build 7 of these speakers (2 for my office and 5 for a friend), but my big issue is not having cabinets or the tools to make them (really, the tools won't fit in my Brooklyn apartment).  Does anyone build the cabinets?  The flat packs would be a possibility if I bought a bunch of clamps, but I think I will need pre-finished cabinets or have some other plan.  Any thoughts out there?

[Hank]

If you can afford them, the prefinished cabinets from Parts Express are beautiful.  There are several references to them on these GR threads.   And, PE periodically (maybe twice a year?) has a sale on them.

[django11]

Yes I'm hung up on a stronger joint; given the circumstances, I'm inclining towards half/lap joint, which I had seen someone using somewhere.

I don't think it is necessary either and find it questionable as to whether this gives much in the way of added strength in mdf.  Glue surface is up but the thickness of the mdf where the half lap is done is down.  I have never seen any exotic joinery on mdf.

Mind you I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference one way or the other.

[sfox7076]

Price isn't the issue really, the issue is cutting the baffle as you need tools for that.

[django11]

If you can afford them, the prefinished cabinets from Parts Express are beautiful.  There are several references to them on these GR threads.   And, PE periodically (maybe twice a year?) has a sale on them.

  Some that Ron recently made.  You could contact Ron...

[Hank]

You need a  jasper circle jig and a plunge router.  A low HP router will work fine.  I've cut several of the PE baffles for folks.  You can do it.  If anyone is going to make several speakers, the investment in a small plunge router and Jasper jig is not out of the question.

[lacro]

If you don't trust the butt joint on MDF, you can add a simple thin wood strip as I did here to fix a screw-up. These are just table saw blade cuts, and a 1/8" strip glued in. It adds a lot of strength.

http://i.imgur.com/FtTfyl.jpg

Larry

[Hank]

Danny, on July 11 you wrote: 

Okay, I have a cabinet deal in the works. Stay tuned. Details to come.

Is there a deal closing in sight?

[Danny Richie]

If we stick to the original box plan, what would be the specs? I mean the frequency response, the nominal impedance, power handling, sensitivity, crossover point etc?

You can see complete measurements of the X-LS Encore here: http://www.stereomojo.com/Small%20Speaker%20Shootout%202007/StereomojoSmallSpekerShootout2007MeasurementsPart2.htm

-3db is going to be in the mid 50's with the book shelve design.

Frequency response is a little better than +/-2db from end to end and as good as +/-1 through a pretty wide range.

The nominal impedance is 8 ohms.

Sensitivity is right at 87db.

The crossover point is 1.8kHz.

Power handing is a non-issue. If you have plenty of good clean power on hand then they will handle whatever you through at them. You will only hurt them if you clip an amp on them.

[gregfisk]

Danny, I recently purchased an X-LS speaker kit from you to get my feet wet building speakers again before I tackle one of your new designs. In another thread you stated,

The X-Omni's sound better then the X-LS. Same drivers just a different configuration. And when people ask me I tell them, the X-Omni sounds better. But they still go for the X-LS. It just looks more right. Go figure....

If this is the best design for this kit then that's what I'm going to build. Is the X-Omni a ported or sealed box and are all the parts the same?

[Danny Richie]

Danny, I recently purchased an X-LS speaker kit from you to get my feet wet building speakers again before I tackle one of your new designs. In another thread you stated,

The X-Omni's sound better then the X-LS. Same drivers just a different configuration. And when people ask me I tell them, the X-Omni sounds better. But they still go for the X-LS. It just looks more right. Go figure....

If this is the best design for this kit then that's what I'm going to build. Is the X-Omni a ported or sealed box and are all the parts the same?

The X-omni's use a different tweeter than the X-LS classic. It uses the Peerless tweeter that is used in the X-LS Encore version.

http://gr-research.com/gr-t3tweeter-1.aspx

And when switching to the omni design the crossover is very different. The only thing common with the two kits are the woofers, ports, and binding post cups.

[SoCalWJS]

Danny -

Just got word that one of the driver's in a pair of X-LS's I gave as a gift to my nephew is blown - do you still have individual drivers or know of a source?

I have been told it is a woofer, but they are going to confirm the actual problem and get back to me. Figured I'd try to get a jump on it.

Thanks

[Danny Richie]

Danny -

Just got word that one of the driver's in a pair of X-LS's I gave as a gift to my nephew is blown - do you still have individual drivers or know of a source?

I have been told it is a woofer, but they are going to confirm the actual problem and get back to me. Figured I'd try to get a jump on it.

Thanks

Over driving them with a Denon receiver?

I have hundreds of them in stock: http://gr-research.com/m130woofer-1.aspx

[SoCalWJS]

Over driving them with a Denon receiver?

I have hundreds of them in stock: http://gr-research.com/m130woofer-1.aspx

Nah, a cr@ppy old Pioneer I had "laying around" - not even sure they had it hooked up right. Good chance that 1 channel on it got blown up during a College party, and that's what took the driver out.

Thanks - I'll order as soon as I get a definitive answer