AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: Danny Richie on 6 Aug 2011, 01:08 am
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I now have a few of these in stock and ready to ship out.
These are all CNC cut pieces that fit together perfectly. Dowel pins are included that align everything. When assembled and painted they are identical to the to the one pictured here: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=73341.0
The sides are knife edge cut to make them look thinner but are solid 1.25" MDF. Baffles are 1.5" thick MDF. The sub woofer boxes and crossover box is Baltic Birch. And yes the crossover boxes are curved and pre-assembled.
Frames for the grills are included and pre-drilled for Neo magnets. The kit even includes 108 Neo magents used for holding on the upper, lower, and rear grills.
Everything is well packed and in wood creates.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svkitpic1.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svkitpic2.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svkitpic3.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svkitpic4.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svkitpic7.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svkitpic8.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svkitpic6.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svkitpic5.jpg)
I am selling these for exactly what I have in them. I am asking $1,350 a pair for them plus shipping.
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what coax driver does the Super-V use?
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what coax driver does the Super-V use?
It uses a modified P-Audio BM12CX38.
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This is a DIY'ers dream come true Danny. Thanks for your efforts :thumb:
Anand.
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Maching up the pair that will be going to the show.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/mach1.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/mach2.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/mach3.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/mach4.jpg)
Magnets all installed now. Time to disassemble it all and send it out for paint and coating.
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Thats the best made "flat pack" I've ever seen Danny! :green:
Your garage could use another 3000 square feet of shop space though. :lol:
I always thought things were bigger in Texas. :scratch: on the bright side, the paint will dry fast, "baked finish" I think.
Put in the new cap and coil in for RMAF, I want to hear the difference between my Sonicaps and the Copper / Beeswax trickery with the different slope. Should be fun.
BTW "Jaguar carnival red metalic" would look mighty nice on those. 8)
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Your garage could use another 3000 square feet of shop space though.
I'd love to have more space right now. The garage isn't bad to work out of if I drive the Vette out of the way.
I have two forty foot containers on site, and off site, one 40 foot container, one 20 foot container, and one 10 by 10 storage unit, all full of product.
I have something special planned for the finish on these. I will post pics as I go.
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the Vette
What year?
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What year?
Nothing special, just a daily driver with low mileage. It's an 88 model (35th anniversary) convertible.
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The cabinets look great Danny! I'm looking forward to hearing them (finally) at RMAF.
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Two words:
Faux Woodgrain.
Call it "paint on veneer". It could be the next big thing.
What? :green:
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:)
When I first read about the Super V, I could tell that this would be a speaker that I wanted to have in my system. But how would I build the cabinets? I don’t have all of the wood working tools needed to do a professional job. Then I learned that Danny had these kits available. Now, this was more like it. I purchased this kit. The qualities of the parts are impeccable as they were all cut on a CNC machine. I am just starting to build them. For the price, they can’t be beat and I wouldn’t be surprised if the price went up. I would not hesitate recommending this kit to anyone.
Danny Keep the pictures coming
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Okay, I just got the sides, bow-tie, and bases back from Lone Star Create Werks.
They coated them with a granite finish that starts out as a mud. It dries a little harder than concrete. Then the layering of the dyes are built up to make a granite look that can be anything you can imagine.
Mine has a little Gold and Black cracking through it, a light Copper veining, and various Browns and Blacks. Then the clear coat had a little Mica in it to add another layer of depth to it.
They look really good. I'll post some pics as I assemble them.
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More pics here: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=98348.0
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I still have some of these in stock.
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For those of you on the Super-V fence. There are only two of these flat packs left in stock.
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For those of you on the Super-V fence. There are only two of these flat packs left in stock.
Digging up an old thread here.....
OOC
Danny, do you still have any of these in stock? Is it something that you can do a "run" of if you get enough interest?
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Digging up an old thread here.....
OOC
Danny, do you still have any of these in stock? Is it something that you can do a "run" of if you get enough interest?
I have two of these left.
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I have two of these left.
thanks!
hmmmmmm............
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Go for it :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
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I'll make you a package deal on a flat pack and kit.
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Go for it :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Lots of factors to consider.
I still have my old Thiel CS3's that I don't want to get rid of (not to mention that every time the topic even gets vaguely mentioned, my wife quickly and firmly says "NO!"). I don't think there is any way in heck that I'm getting rid my LS-6'es.
We are on the verge of committing to an add-on to the house which would be planned from the ground up as a combined HT/2 channel room. The Super V Kit + the flat pack + the shipping is a good chunk of change (for us) that would otherwise go into the add-on.
I don't know if my issues with the LS-6'es would disappear if I moved into a larger room that did not have the shortcomings the existing non-dedicated room has.
:scratch: :scratch:
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I'll make you a package deal on a flat pack and kit.
ruh roh............
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I have one flat pack that is missing the curved and assembled crossover boxes that set behind and below the coaxial driver. With that flat pack the crossover would sit in the open where it can be seen.
I'll take $1,000 for that flat pack ($350 off).
Or, I'll sell that flat pack with a kit for $3,250 ($595 off) if purchased all together.
And I'll throw in pre-cut, pre-drilled, and pre-painted crossover boards. It makes for nice clean network assembling.
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That's one thing about you Danny that is great.
In spite of having great prices you're not above
tossing out an even better deal now and then.
If anything ever happened to you I bet the wife
would dread having to deal with what's left.
At least that's what mine told me, no unautorized
departures until some of the stuff is gone! :green:
OK is that better?
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If anything ever happened to you I bet the wife
would dread having to deal with what's left.
:shh: Shhh, don't say that. My wife might see it.
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I have one flat pack that is missing the curved and assembled crossover boxes that set behind and below the coaxial driver. With that flat pack the crossover would sit in the open where it can be seen.
I'll take $1,000 for that flat pack ($350 off).
Or, I'll sell that flat pack with a kit for $3,250 ($595 off) if purchased all together.
And I'll throw in pre-cut, pre-drilled, and pre-painted crossover boards. It makes for nice clean network assembling.
WOW!
How much more for Jupiter caps and No-Rez? Any idea of ball park for shipping to socal?
(how would I even begin to 'splain this one :roll:)
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WOW!
How much more for Jupiter caps and No-Rez? Any idea of ball park for shipping to socal?
(how would I even begin to 'splain this one :roll:)
Jupiter cap upgrade is $150. Three sheets of No Rez is $119.85
That is a lot of weight to ship but I have a 70% discount with YRC. So I am guessing around $450 to $500 for shipping. I'd have to make a few phone calls to find out for sure.
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WOW!
How much more for Jupiter caps and No-Rez? Any idea of ball park for shipping to socal?
(how would I even begin to 'splain this one :roll:)
You must have stopped at Michaels on the way home.
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This is your chance gentlemen to step up to the plate and purchase these manly speakers.
While in divorce court, don't mention my name OK? :nono:
Next on your short list - Joule Electra's! :guitar:
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I'd really like to see these last two flat packs go to a good home. If any of you guys are on the fence for a Super-V kit with a flat pack then give me a call and I might make a really sweet deal on the package.
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OK, a couple of silly (rather than "stupid") questions.
1) If I get a kit and a flat pack, how tough is the actual assembly? I can solder OK, but my woodworking skills are minimal. (i.e., one step above non-existant)
2) How tough is it to get a decent finish on the flat pack? I'm guessing you can't just stain the MDF and get a nice finish - you either need to put a veneer on (yeah, right), or have access to good paint. What does it look like if you just leave it as a MDF fininsh?
3) REALISTICALLY, how much room behind the speakers? I didn't measure how far at RMAF, but from pictures, it looks like about three feet. Is that enough? Is more better?
4) If I get the flat pack w/o x-over covers, what can I do to provide some protection to them? My cats will be sorely tempted by all those interesting looking things.
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OK, a couple of silly (rather than "stupid") questions.
1) If I get a kit and a flat pack, how tough is the actual assembly? I can solder OK, but my woodworking skills are minimal. (i.e., one step above non-existant)
Assembly is not too hard. See some assembly pics here: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=98348.0
This thread has some good build pics too: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=102812.0
2) How tough is it to get a decent finish on the flat pack? I'm guessing you can't just stain the MDF and get a nice finish - you either need to put a veneer on (yeah, right), or have access to good paint. What does it look like if you just leave it as a MDF fininsh?
Painting them works great. All of those that I have taken to the shows that were Silver (like the ones on my web site) and bright Yellow were both painted MDF. The same goes for Michael's Copper pair. They were painted MDF.
Ruben has a pair of the flat packs on hand and can easily paint them anyway that you want and send them to you assembled.
3) REALISTICALLY, how much room behind the speakers? I didn't measure how far at RMAF, but from pictures, it looks like about three feet. Is that enough? Is more better?
With any open baffle speaker you need a good three feet of space behind them. More is of coarse better.
4) If I get the flat pack w/o x-over covers, what can I do to provide some protection to them? My cats will be sorely tempted by all those interesting looking things.
It will be hard for your cats to see them. You can mount the crossovers right behind the Co-axial driver much like the ones in this pic:
(http://gr-research.com/mis/openbackside.jpg)
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Looks like almost all the builds end up sending panels to auto body shops (or they are people who are very familiar with high quality air spraying techniques). Can you do the rest (subwoofer boxes?) with something like a Wagner power sprayer? Or maybe even (gasp) a brush/roller? (with sanding and multiple layers)
Regarding the ones you took to RMAF last year with the textured finish - how was that applied? Is it a commercial kit or did somebody do it for you?
Trying to figure out if there is a way to get a nice finish that is DIY and not too difficult.
(kind of scary looking at how Michaels flat pack arrived. :o)
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Looks like almost all the builds end up sending panels to auto body shops (or they are people who are very familiar with high quality air spraying techniques). Can you do the rest (subwoofer boxes?) with something like a Wagner power sprayer? Or maybe even (gasp) a brush/roller? (with sanding and multiple layers)
Yes, just the sides and bow-tie get the fancy paint. I spayed the Black body myself with a textured paint. It was easy.
Regarding the ones you took to RMAF last year with the textured finish - how was that applied? Is it a commercial kit or did somebody do it for you?
I local guy applied it for me. He owns Lone Star Crete Works. $700 is what that finish cost. It is a concrete type coating that is then dyed various colors.
Trying to figure out if there is a way to get a nice finish that is DIY and not too difficult.
Just have Ruben spray the pair that he has for you. You pick the color.
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Thanks for all the responses Danny. :thumb:
Trying to figure out how I would do this as inexpensively as possible and still be happy with the results. :scratch:
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Michael sprayed the black with a spraycan it's a flat black that has a little texture to it and looks nice against the high gloss copper. I believe he paid 400.00 for the copper to be painted its in his build thread.
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Trust me, I want to get the Super V's.
It's just tough at this point. I've got the LS-6'es, which even though I purchased during the initial buy-in through AV-123, was still a substantial commitment for me. I enjoy them most of the time and am trying to work through issues which have to do with the fact that I have them in a room which is just a couple of feet too small for them (even though one end of the room is not sealed), along with equipment which does not fully do them justice (primarily amps and cables).
I spent an awful lot of time listening to the Super-V's at RMAF, and remember how much I enjoyed listening to music rather than EQUIPMENT.
How much was just due to the Super-V's as opposed to the whole system, I have no way of knowing. :scratch:
Very difficult to pull the trigger.
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Divorce Court ? Been there once already.
I think you have most of the equipment that you need to make the change to the Super V's. You would get about 95% of what you paid for the those giant amps you have in the used market. You may have to not include the words "Come from a non smoking home" when you sell them as you do alot of slow cooked stuff in your Green Egg. You have a great preamp so all you'll need is a modestly powered tube amp.
Your listening to equipment blues would be over. No divorce court for you.
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Divorce Court ? Been there once already.
I think you have most of the equipment that you need to make the change to the Super V's. You would get about 95% of what you paid for the those giant amps you have in the used market. You may have to not include the words "Come from a non smoking home" when you sell them as you do alot of slow cooked stuff in your Green Egg. You have a great preamp so all you'll need is a modestly powered tube amp.
Your listening to equipment blues would be over. No divorce court for you.
Actually, currently sitting in a jury selection room in Riverside killing time. Great fun! :evil:
Yeah, I can probably sell things, but everything is big/heavy, and I'm getting stubborn about some things. I hate selling my equipment. It used to just get "passed on" to a family member, but this stuff doesn't appeal to them. Don't like dealing with selling used - I've had to deal with too many civil disputes in my career. Too jaded. :(
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I don't know about civil cases. I've always had really good luck buying and selling online. I look at both Michael and Morgan and see guys that buy sell and trade thier way along all the time. Trading might be a good path for you.
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Selling can be a pain in the butt, especially the shipping part. Really, most sales have gone well - both parties happy.
Here's what I'd do. Sell the LS's locally. That would be painless. You don't want to ship those unless yo're using a freight company. The prospective buyer could addition and everyone would know what they are getting into. Audiogon has a good way of determining who the good guys are and who aren't so good. It's called feedback. Most of my problems have been from shipping, stuff getting damaged, destroyed or lost using the FedEx or UPS. About a 10% failure rate. No kidding!
I have an UPS'ed Oppo in the mail now - and I'm scared :o
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so, you ^^^ were the one that grabbed that oppo and did not even allow me to think for one day... :x
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so, you ^^^ were the one that grabbed that oppo and did not even allow me to think for one day... :x
Grabbed it? I sold it! :lol: But fret not, my Decware Torii is going for sale tomorrow - and now you're the first to know. :thumb:
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Sad to see the Tori go. It had a real nice view into the music.
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Yes, buying and selling simply requires a little common sense and very good packing material! I have bought, sold, and shipped at least 7 pairs of speakers, 10-15 amps, 5 Pre-amps, a few CD players, 5+ DACs, and many cables over the last 4 years and I only have had two problems. One was from the owner of a now non existent company who failed to deliver a Pre paid pair of LS-6's and the other was when I shipped a speaker without detaching the base first and it was damaged by FedEx (though they paid the claim).
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Michael HiFi- Your mail box is full. I may have a buyer for your Decware amp. Can you please email your phone number and I will call you back? Thanks, Fritz
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Yes, buying and selling simply requires a little common sense and very good packing material! I have bought, sold, and shipped at least 7 pairs of speakers, 10-15 amps, 5 Pre-amps, a few CD players, 5+ DACs, and many cables over the last 4 years and I only have had two problems. One was from the owner of a now non existent company who failed to deliver a Pre paid pair of LS-6's and the other was when I shipped a speaker without detaching the base first and it was damaged by FedEx (though they paid the claim).
You were one of the unfortunate ones???
Ouch! :sad:
Sorry to hear. I feel soooooooooooooo lucky on that one.
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Yep, sad but true :(. I have therefore never owned one of Danny's Products though I hope to change that in the near future :thumb:
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Why don't you invest in a pair of Super V's and we can house trade on weekends.
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Perfect....weekend trade San Francisco for Wine Country...... :thumb:
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Need help building them. I have friends in low places that do auto painting.
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Michael HiFi- Your mail box is full. I may have a buyer for your Decware amp. Can you please email your phone number and I will call you back? Thanks, Fritz
Scott borrowed my Torii - and now he owns my Torii. Very nice match on the Zu's but I feel he has a blown driver :o
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Need help building them. I have friends in low places that do auto painting.
I have a garage, experience, and a painter :wink:
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hi guys,
i'm new on this forum,
i'm very interested by the topic of upgrading the P.Audio BM8CXA
i've already upgraded the compression driver, but i haven't thought about opening the back of the compression driver to get an OB tweeter.
Could you tell me how you ended up with the xover.
What were the big changes you did to get a precise smooth frequency response?
i've tried many kind of crossover, the best results i've got is with 30 ohms resistance in serie and a 18 db xover with 2microF, self in parallel of 0,35 mH and 10 microF.
I didn't find useful to add the small inductor in serie with the positive of the tweeter.
concerning the medium, i've used a 12 slope with 2,9mH and 20microF
what do u think?
thank you for your very interesting topics about these speakers.
i'm leaving in Russia and there is no long talks about the V2
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If i'm not mistaken you are using the compression driver 440 from P.Audio or the 740?
what do u think to upgrade the BM8CXA with the BM2 340S?
Thanks in advance for your answer
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Hello Henry,
Welcome to AC.
I haven't made any mods to the BM8CXA driver. The back of the tweeter was not designed to allow milling of the rear cup.
I have milled the back out of the tweeters on the BM12CXA used in our V-1 model and the BM12CX38 used in our Super-V.
In both cases it changed the response of the tweeter and the sound of it fairly significantly. So the crossover definitely required a re-design.
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Hi Danny,
Thanks for your answer.
What do u think about the cover i've done?
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xover, sorry :? :?
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i would like to have your opinion.
it's may be better if i buy a BM12, to finish my test
I've choosen the BM8 for many reasons:
i think that it's a beautiful speaker able to give more energy than a 12 inches.
the size of course is smaller
i believe that i will get a better medium than with a 12 inches
i'm ready to get another loudspeaker, and build something else
I like the accuracy of the speaker, detailled and very fast.
i discover a lot of details i've never heard before
bad recording become worse than with traditionnal speakers
i'm amazed!
will i get close results with the 12 inches?
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xover, sorry :? :?
Not too bad. I am guessing that to make a pretty smooth response. I did something similar but added an impedance trap at the front of the network to level off the huge impedance rise in the 1.9kHz range. This lets your amp see a more even load.
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i would like to have your opinion.
it's may be better if i buy a BM12, to finish my test
I've choosen the BM8 for many reasons:
i think that it's a beautiful speaker able to give more energy than a 12 inches.
the size of course is smaller
i believe that i will get a better medium than with a 12 inches
i'm ready to get another loudspeaker, and build something else
I like the accuracy of the speaker, detailled and very fast.
i discover a lot of details i've never heard before
bad recording become worse than with traditionnal speakers
i'm amazed!
will i get close results with the 12 inches?
The woofer we use in the V-1 is the BM12CXA. It has a similar sound to the 8" woofer, but higher sensitivity and higher dynamics. Then opening up the tweeter took it to another level. Being completely open allows the music to feel more real. Instruments being reproduced sound more as if they are in the room with you rather than playing at you from the speaker.
Then the BM12CX38 took all of that to another level. Everything about that driver just sounds better. Vocals are great, highs are great, everything is beautiful to listen to.
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Regarding the sub amp, is the enclosure supposed to be open in the back? I see some people cover it with perspex, or lay the box down so the plate amp is facing up. I want my amps standing up so they take up less floor space and are a bit easier to get to and adjust.
Is it ok to cut a piece of wood to cover the back too, and feed the cable through a grommet?
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You don't have to block off the plate amp with its own enclosure but you can.
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OK cheers :)
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hi Danny,
knowing that the bass loudspeaker is not available in russia, did you try a replacement speaker like the sls12 peerless?
i've seen in klang und ton 2/2010 , nice results with this loudspeakers in OB
i know it's a bit of cooking test, but i've no other choice.
i've followed your advice and bought 2 12 inches coaxial from p audio
the results are better than the bm8 in the lower mid
i still like the bm8 in high mids and the new compression i've bought bm 340s is really amazing
i'll try again my home cooking with the bm8
i've bought also a pair of 150/2226, but they don't fit well with the bm8. i'll try to use these 150/2226 with a compression driver in 2 way loudspeaker
could u give me the lrc values to correct the impedance in my home V2?
thanks in advance
Marc
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Hi Danny,
Basically i did 2 variant
one with BM8 and 2 peerless sls12
the other with Bm 12 and 150/226
what tuning do you recommend?
as 1st test results, i've found that the bass with sls12 doesn't need to add a subwoofer
i'm a bit disappointed with the 150/2226, high energy but lows are not enough for my taste
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hi Danny,
Why do you put in your xover a self of 0.07mH en series with compression driver?
i didn't use it in my configuration.
does it give a bit less energy after 12khz?or because of a pike in the frequency response?
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could u give me the lrc values to correct the impedance in my home V2?
Right across the front of the network (before any other parts), try a .47mH, 15uF cap, and a 7.5 ohm resistor. See what that does for your impedance.
hi Danny,
Why do you put in your xover a self of 0.07mH en series with compression driver?
i didn't use it in my configuration.
does it give a bit less energy after 12khz?or because of a pike in the frequency response?
The tweeter on the BM8CXA has a bit of a rise and some choppiness up top that the small inductor softens.
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hi danny,
thanks for your advice about impedance compensation.
i've followed your advice and bought a 12 inches.
now , i'm completely stacked with the crossover and open compression driver. it sounds awful .....
pleeeeease, could you help me again?
marc
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hi danny,
thanks for your advice about impedance compensation.
i've followed your advice and bought a 12 inches.
now , i'm completely stacked with the crossover and open compression driver. it sounds awful .....
pleeeeease, could you help me again?
marc
Okay, you did what now?
Are you now trying to do something similar with one of the 12" P-Audio drivers?
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hi danny,
Yes i've cut the compression driver as shown in your threads
then i started with a simple condensator of 1.5mF, as i did with the bm 8
the sound was very aggressive, may be a bit more power in the low mid
but on voices, or flute , it is very aggressive with big pikes in the medium-highs
i've tried selfs to shut a bit the 12 inches around 1khz
i've tried 18db xover on compression drivers and some resistances to lower the efficiency
there is something wrong in this combinaison, still pikes on medium highs, and very disturbing on choirs and opera.
I didnt find the same smooth and details than with bm8
the bass is now very good, with combinaison of 2 sly 12 from perless on open baffle with active xover
could you send me the sheme you are using for this driver?
Thanks
Marc
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Danny, how many sheets of no rez does it take to fully cover a Super V?
I have 6 sheets but it looks like I'll need an extra 2.
Do you recommended covering all 4 sides of all 4 "boxes" of each speaker (front and rear of each sub)?
Thanks,
Steve.
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Marc,
I don't give away our crossover designs that we offer with our kits, but I will be glad to help you straighten that out. E-mail me what you have and I'll give you some very good direction.
Danny, how many sheets of no rez does it take to fully cover a Super V?
3
Do you recommended covering all 4 sides of all 4 "boxes" of each speaker (front and rear of each sub)?
I do.
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Thanks Danny. Can you share any info on how you cut it?
I did the sums and it looks to me like I need 8.5 sq ft per speaker but 3 sheets is only 6.5 sq ft.
I was planning to miter all the corners though so that's probably where the extra surface area comes from. Will recalculate it with butt joints and see what I come up with.
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How big is a sheet of now rez ? I thought it was bigger than approx 2.2 wq ft (aren't they like 27" x 24" ) ?
-jay
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I measure a piece at approx 24" x 13.5" (2.25 sq ft).
I guess maybe my sheets are cut in half for shipping here, so I only have 3 "sheets" Danny?
But that would be too much, I don't need twice as much as I have, just 8 sheets instead of 6, unless I'm measuring wrong (likely :duh: ).
I'll work out the area needed with butt joins instead of miters now, that will probably explain everything.
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OK No rez is a hair over 1" thick (25mm)
With all butt joints I still get 7.1sq ft needed per speaker.
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Here are my drawings and the measurements I used to plan the no rez cuts:
(http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/stevenkelby/GR%20Research%20Super%20V/Unitled_zpsada653e3.jpg)
It's possible my dimensions are off but I'm pretty sure those boxes are according to plan.
Maybe the no rez is not supposed to cover the whole panel, maybe it should be 1" in from the corner so there is clearance for the driver or something?
Worst case I'll order a couple more sheets form Danny.
Thanks for any help :D
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On the GR site it says a sheet of no-rez is 27" x 24"
http://gr-research.com/accessories.aspx
I realize this doesn't really help you as y no matter what the size, you still need more.
Wierd how you calculations aren't coming out to how many sheets you supposedly need (actual sheet size).
Are you maybe missing an area in your calculations ?
-jay
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I know on my N3's, I was told to leave 1.5" from the front baffle for clearence. Also didn't go all the way down the sides, only part way according to drawings. 1`.5 down from bottom driver to top of vent and on rear all the way down (except for the crowssover area)
-jay
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On the GR site it says a sheet of no-rez is 27" x 24"
http://gr-research.com/accessories.aspx
I realize this doesn't really help you as y no matter what the size, you still need more.
Wierd how you calculations aren't coming out to how many sheets you supposedly need (actual sheet size).
Are you maybe missing an area in your calculations ?
-jay
Thanks, I have a spreadsheet with all 16 pieces per speaker (4 boxes x 4 sides each) and it all adds up.
I'm probably doing something wrong or not understanding something :)
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Steven, your sheets may have been cut down for shipping. Sheets are 24" by 27". So 4.5 square feet per sheet.
And you have to come back a bit off the drivers. So you can only make the strips 4.5" to 5" wide.
Also, it doesn't matter what joints you use. The coverage area is still the same. And when you cover the sides of a panel from top to bottom on each side, then the top and bottom pieces cut for that panel are just over 2" shorter to allow for the thickness of the pieces that you put on the sides.
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Thanks Danny, so it seems I have got 3 full sheets (6 halves).
I'll try and work out how to get 32 correctly sized pieces from these 6 sheets, surely it will be easier if I make all the pieces shorter to clear the drivers and it will be a fun puzzle :)
I might be wrong but I still think that miter joints would use more as every piece would have to go all the way into every corner. With butt joints half the pieces only have to be wide enough to reach the next piece. Butt joints should save 1 inch of every both ends of every second piece.
Here's a bad drawing I just did, it looks like butt joints save 6 cm of width total per box in my example:
(http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/stevenkelby/GR%20Research%20Super%20V/Untitled_zpsaf62da80.jpg)
I might miter the corners as I think it looks nice, I can order more from you if I need it. Then again it will all be behind grills all the time...
Danny, when you cut full sheets of no rez for a V1/Super V/Super 7, do you always cut it the same way, do you use a template or something?
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Steven,
Again, it does not matter how you cut those panels, the area that you need to cover with No Rez is the same.
See pics here: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=73341.0
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OK thanks Danny, appreciate the help :)
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Another quick question. I know Danny is busy at RMAF but can anyone see any problems with my networks?
Here is my planned layout:
(http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/stevenkelby/GR%20Research%20Super%20V/IMG_6656_zps0a492638.jpg)
With scraps of wire to show the wiring plan:
(http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/stevenkelby/GR%20Research%20Super%20V/IMG_6662A_zps90461295.jpg)
My x over box slopes down at the bottom, so there is only room to stand up the 2 small inductors at the top of the board, which I will do (the .15 is laying flat in the pics). The other 3 must lay flat, are they in ok positions?
(http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/stevenkelby/GR%20Research%20Super%20V/ic_zps2e68d1e5.jpg)
I will mirror the other speakers x over.
Just looking for someones ok before I start soldering :)
Thanks,
Steve.
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:nono:
not cool posting Danny's proprietary info (schematic) - you need to remove!
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When it comes to orienting the inductors keep this in mind. Lay the big ones flat and stand the smaller ones on their edge.
(http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils_files/coils_9.gif)
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:nono:
not cool posting Danny's proprietary info (schematic) - you need to remove!
It's cool.
Here are some pics Danny posted of the Super V network.
This post was made in a Super-V build thread back in September:
See pics. :green:
Yes, I mirrored the crossovers.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svcrossoverpic3.jpg)
And a close up of one after adding the wiring.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svcrossoverpic1.jpg)
And yes, that big Brown square thing is a Jupiter cap.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svcrossoverpic2.jpg)
Ruben
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It's cool.
Here are some pics Danny posted of the Super V network.
Ruben
Rueben - I respectfully disagree - the pics that Danny previously posted don't show any component values. The pics Steve posted certainly do (but especially the wiring diagram!). I doubt Danny would want this posted.
gab
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Rueben - I respectfully disagree - the pics that Danny previously posted don't show any component values. The pics Steve posted certainly do (but especially the wiring diagram!). I doubt Danny would want this posted.
gab
You're right, gab.
The schematic should be removed.
Best,
Ruben
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Thanks and sorry I should have realized, schematic removed. I knew plenty pics of the network had been posted before but didn't think about the values :duh: