AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: mlundy57 on 28 Aug 2014, 02:13 am
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Am finally building the speakers for my niece, nephew and step-daughter.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104512)
The niece and nephew each get a pair of X-MTM Encores and my step daughter gets the three (L/C/R) X-CS Encores on top.
The X-CS Encores have the NoRez installed. One more baffle to glue on and they will be ready to prep for the veneer. The MTM's are ready for the NoRez.
The veneer is on order. The step-daughter wanted Wormy (aka Ghost) Maple and the niece and nephew are both getting Poplar which will be ebonized.
Mike
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Am finally building the speakers for my niece, nephew and step-daughter.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104512)
The niece and nephew each get a pair of X-MTM Encores and my step daughter gets the three (L/C/R) X-CS Encores on top.
The X-CS Encores have the NoRez installed. One more baffle to glue on and they will be ready to prep for the veneer. The MTM's are ready for the NoRez.
The veneer is on order. The step-daughter wanted Wormy (aka Ghost) Maple and the niece and nephew are both getting Poplar which will be ebonized.
Mike
Hi Mike.
I hope you are not doing that for free for your relatives
otherwise you will go broke. :lol:
On how many weeks that project was spread?
Nice work, more picture later would be highly appreciated
for the feast of our eyes.
Thanks.
Guy 13
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Geeze Mike, you're a busy guy.
I was seriously considering a pair of the X MTM's at one point, will be interesting to hear your opinion comparing them to the N3TL's.
Looking good , anxious to see more :thumb:
-jay
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Hi Mike.
I hope you are not doing that for free for your relatives
otherwise you will go broke. :lol:
On how many weeks that project was spread?
Nice work, more picture later would be highly appreciated
for the feast of our eyes.
Thanks.
Guy 13
Guy 13,
Yep, they are being done for free. For Christmas last year I gave each one of them the option of any X-Series speaker they wanted. The niece & nephew each picked a pair of X-MTM's and the step-daughter picked a pair of X-LS Encores and finagled an X-CS center channel as well. What can I say, a daughter has more pull than a niece or nephew :). Since then she has moved into a larger space so I upgraded her to three X-CS Encores. Of course, it may be Christmas this year before I get done with all of them :lol:
All of the speakers are getting Sonicaps and Mills resistor upgrades along with NoRez and Electra tube connectors. The daughter's X-CS Encores are also getting Erse XQ inductors, Sonicap Gen II by-pass caps in both woofer and tweeter circuits and point-to-point wiring (it's that daughter thing again). Though I will probably go ahead and order the inductors, by-pass caps and some extra wire from Danny and point-to-point wire the X-MTM's also. I like the sound of the point-to-point wired networks a lot better than the upgraded circuit boards.
I started on all of these the middle of July so it has been about 6 weeks so far.
Geeze Mike, you're a busy guy.
I was seriously considering a pair of the X MTM's at one point, will be interesting to hear your opinion comparing them to the N3TL's.
Looking good , anxious to see more :thumb:
-jay
Jay,
The comparison will be interesting (after all, I do have to burn them in don't I?) but not exactly fair. In addition to the Neo 3 PDR, the N3TL's have platinum by-pass caps.
I didn't do a step by step this time since I already have a build thread with the X-CS Encores and one for the N3TL's which is very similar to the X-MTM's. Plus my camera died on me in the process of gluing everything up. I could only take 3 pictures before I had to recharge the battery. I have a new camera now and am slowly learning how to use it. I have some other pics I'll get up later after I process them down to a size for posting on the web.
Mike
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Here are some pics of the X-CS Encore glue ups. Those Brace B's are a bugger since they are recessed far enough back that none of my clamps would reach them. I had been using a brad nailer to hold them in place until the glue dries but that had some problems, mainly splitting the MDF. Maybe a pin nailer would have worked better. Then I came across some wooden cam clamps with 6", 8", and 12" reaches. They didn't seem real substantial even though they supposedly applied 350psi clamping pressure. I had read about them being used by guitar makers so I decided to give some a try.
Check them out in the pictures below. They really work well and reach where no other clamp will.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104539)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104541)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104542)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104543)
Here are some more pics of the braces going in:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104544)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104544)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104545)
The top being glued on - new camera, bad exposure
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104546)
Now the back
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104547)
That's all for now, more to come
Mike
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Guy 13,
Yep, they are being done for free. For Christmas last year I gave each one of them the option of any X-Series speaker they wanted. The niece & nephew each picked a pair of X-MTM's and the step-daughter picked a pair of X-LS Encores and finagled an X-CS center channel as well. What can I say, a daughter has more pull than a niece or nephew :). Since then she has moved into a larger space so I upgraded her to three X-CS Encores. Of course, it may be Christmas this year before I get done with all of them :lol:
All of the speakers are getting Sonicaps and Mills resistor upgrades along with NoRez and Electra tube connectors. The daughter's X-CS Encores are also getting Erse XQ inductors, Sonicap Gen II by-pass caps in both woofer and tweeter circuits and point-to-point wiring (it's that daughter thing again). Though I will probably go ahead and order the inductors, by-pass caps and some extra wire from Danny and point-to-point wire the X-MTM's also. I like the sound of the point-to-point wired networks a lot better than the upgraded circuit boards.
I started on all of these the middle of July so it has been about 6 weeks so far.
Jay,
The comparison will be interesting (after all, I do have to burn them in don't I?) but not exactly fair. In addition to the Neo 3 PDR, the N3TL's have platinum by-pass caps.
I didn't do a step by step this time since I already have a build thread with the X-CS Encores and one for the N3TL's which is very similar to the X-MTM's. Plus my camera died on me in the process of gluing everything up. I could only take 3 pictures before I had to recharge the battery. I have a new camera now and am slowly learning how to use it. I have some other pics I'll get up later after I process them down to a size for posting on the web.
Mike
Hi Mike.
Your are so good at wood working,
that maybe you should start your own enclosure building business
or at least make it a profitable sideline/hobby,
don't you think so?
Guy 13
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Guy 13,
That's actually part of my plan but as a sideline. Nothing big time like a full blown business. Just something I can do in the evenings and weekends and hopefully make enough money to at least pay for my tools and feed the addiction :eyebrows: Maybe somebody will even want me to build them a pair of speakers I would never be allowed to have in the house otherwise, like a line source. At least that way I could listen to them while they are burning in.
Wouldn't want to give up my day job. Spent 7 years in college to be a Registered Dietitian, and have the student loan debt to prove it.
Mike
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Maybe somebody will even want me to build them a pair of speakers I would never be allowed to have in the house otherwise, like a line source. At least that way I could listen to them while they are burning in.
Mike
Just be sure the wife hears them too, then maybe, just maybe ........
I know where you're going with this !!
-jay
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Who, me??
Actually, I have my sights set on a pair of the OB LGK MMTMM's mated with a pair of dual 12" OB servo subs for my personal system.
Mike
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Guy 13,
That's actually part of my plan but as a sideline. Nothing big time like a full blown business. Just something I can do in the evenings and weekends and hopefully make enough money to at least pay for my tools and feed the addiction :eyebrows: Maybe somebody will even want me to build them a pair of speakers I would never be allowed to have in the house otherwise, like a line source. At least that way I could listen to them while they are burning in.
Wouldn't want to give up my day job. Spent 7 years in college to be a Registered Dietitian, and have the student loan debt to prove it.
Mike
Hi Mike.
If you have a good (Paying) job and a job that you like,
then do the woodworking as a sideline,
a sideline that will bring extra $$$ to pay for your student loan
or whatever you dream of.
Building something and keep it for burn in, that's good, that way,
you can evaluate the sound of what you have built
and that way you will know what you have built sounds like.
I wish I could do that, but my two hand have ten thumbs. :oops:
If you were living next door to me, I would order a pair of enclosure
from you and I am sure it would be better than
my Vietnamese cabinet maker.
Like they say:
Keep up the good work.
Guy 13
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So Mike,
How do you feel about adopting? :lol:
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So Mike,
How do you feel about adopting? :lol:
Thanks but I'm too old to be adopted :lol:
Mike
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Here's some pictires of the X-MTM Encores. Gluing up the back of one of them here
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104587)
Here's all 4 of them ready for the NoRez
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104588)
Started adding NoRez today. Here's the first one, fully lined
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104589)
Here it is again with the pieces in place that will attach to the front baffle
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104590)
Had a little surprise with the NoRez. I bought 4 sheets, 1 per speaker, when I ordered the kit. I couldn't find any pictures showing me where to put the NoRez in the MTM Encores so I just lined everything. The surprise? One sheet wasn't enough. It took 2 1/2 sheets of NoRez to line this speaker. I only have 1 1/2 sheets left so I am going to have to get some more after the holidays to finish up.
Mike
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Mike,
That is some seriously good workmanship. :thumb:
Does the No Rez take away any of the volume? I'm trying to remember something I read about NoRez....that it doesn't impact the volume inside a speaker(?). I'm preparing to assemble a pair of Adelphos 2-way monitors that I would love to line with NoRez.
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Mike,
That is some seriously good workmanship. :thumb:
Does the No Rez take away any of the volume? I'm trying to remember something I read about NoRez....that it doesn't impact the volume inside a speaker(?). I'm preparing to assemble a pair of Adelphos 2-way monitors that I would love to line with NoRez.
Hi,
I remember Danny telling me that the NoRez does not impact
on inside volume of the enclosure.
Guy 13
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No it doesn't. I asked Danny about this and he basically said fully lining the cabinet is a good thing and how he would do it if he were making them for himself. The only downside is some added expense.
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Excellent!
Once again, I have waited until the end of the week to make a buying decision. Now I must wait until Tuesday to place an order. Will I never learn?
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No it doesn't. I asked Danny about this and he basically said fully lining the cabinet is a good thing and how he would do it if he were making them for himself. The only downside is some added expense.
With the amount you'll be uising, maybe you can get a discount on a case load
When I did the "homemade " no rez in my N3's, I lined them all the way down too
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Don't forget to the speaker binding post cup backside :thumb: .
Great work. I love scrolling through pictures of you guys that look like you're able to be at manufacturing standards of the industry.
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Don't forget to the speaker binding post cup backside :thumb: .
Great work. I love scrolling through pictures of you guys that look like you're able to be at manufacturing standards of the industry.
No worries there, the NoRez completely covers the rear baffle also. I'm not using binding post cups on any of these speakers. While the kits came with binding post cups, I didn't like the look or feel of them so I bought Electra tube connectors for all the speakers.
Thanks everybody for all the compliments. When our home HVAC systems were replaced back in July, the installers said my N3TL's looked store bought. I took that as high praise considering what they were saying is that my French Polish (hand rubbed shellack) finish looked as good as sprayed catalyzed lacquer.
Mike
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The veneer came in today. Here are some pictures of the wormy maple a.k.a. "ghost" or "Ambrosia" maple
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104774)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104775)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104776)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104777)
I started working on the grill frames today. I'll get some pictures up once I finish the frames.
Mike
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That is going to look fantastic, great veneer.
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That is going to look fantastic, great veneer.
Agreed , very nice man :thumb:
-jay
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It's going to be interesting. This is the first time I have worked with holes as big as the worm holes in this veneer. Not exactly sure what to fill them with.
One suggestion was Bondo with white hardener so it would cure grey then the holes would blend in.
Another was to use joint compound dyed black. This would make the worm holes stand out but I'm uncertain if the joint compound would shrink when it cured and be bonded well enough to stay put in the larger holes
Any body out there ever worked with this veneer before and have any suggestions?
Mike
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I don't know squat about veneer but this guy seems to know how to fill holes in veneer. YMMV.
http://www.alliedlutherie.com/filling_a_hole.htm
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When I filled holes in Mappa Burl veneer I used a dark wood filler putty. It worked out pretty well.
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I'm trying something a little different for me on the CS-Encores. I have rounded over all four of the long sides so I will be wrapping the veneer all the way around the speakers and putting a seam in the back.
For those of you who have done this before, and especially if using HeatLock glue and an iron, how do you get a tight seam in the back that looks good? I have practiced it on a speaker enclosure I use for this purpose with walnut veneer and ended up with a gap in the seam.
Mike
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Hi Mike,
I am far from an expert and probably broke all veneering rules, but this is what I did using heat lock to get the Sapele triangle in my V1 crossover covers:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31002)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31000)
What I did was cut the "V" in the Maple veneer and applied it with heatlock. I then cut out the filler piece a little larger than needed and ironed it down making certain to get really tight up against the maple underneath. After that I sanded the extra Sapele off until I reached the Maple below. Not textbook but worked for me.
For your scenario I would get one seam where you want it, work your way around and overlap just a bit, finish by carefully sanding the excess.
I should note that I was using raw veneer, if using backed all bets are off.
Good luck!
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I'm using a veneer with a 22.2 mil laminated backing. This makes the veneer more flexible, easier to roll around the edges, and more forgiving where the cabinet surface is concerned.
On my practice piece piece, I overlapped the two edges, put a straight edge on top, and used a veneer saw to cut through both pieces of veneer. Usually this gives a tight, almost invisible seam bot the heat from the iron caused the veneer to shrink and I ended up with about a 1/32" crack between the two pieces of veneer.
Mike
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What I used to do was to put a strip of wax paper down the middle of the cabinet on the back side. I'd then roll the first layer over it. The wax paper would keep it from sticking to the contact cement under it. Then lay wax paper on top of it and fold the other side over it. The wax paper will keep the second layer from sticking to the first. I'd then lay a metal ruler over them and line it up to where I want the seam to be. Then with a sharp blade cut through both of them at the same time. Then open it all up and discard the excess.
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What Danny stated.
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I did another test run today combining what you all suggested and a tip from the Joe Woodworker website addressing this issue with Heat Lock glue and the iron on technique.
The wax paper helped a lot even though this glue is not contact cement. I taped a piece of wax paper across the center of the back panel to keep the starting edge of the veneer from sticking where the seam was going to be but allowing the top couple of inches to stick down so I could roll the veneer over the first edge. Then I continued ironing the veneer down and around the edges as usual until I got back to the rear panel. Then I added the second piece of wax paper over top of the first piece like Danny suggested. Then I ironed the veneer around the last edge making sure the first couple of inches were stuck down so the veneer laid flat across the back.
At this point I incorporated the suggestion from Joe Woodworker. I put a straightened out piece of coat hanger under the veneer then overlapped the first piece. Then I used a straight edge to guide my veneer saw as I cut through both pieces of veneer.
Next I finished ironing down the first piece of veneer. Then I placed the coat hanger wire about 2" from the seam then ironed down the seam. Then I removed the coat hanger which left a small bubble the length of the piece of veneer. I finished ironing down the last part of the veneer. This flattened out the bubble and pushed the seam closed.
This left the edge a little proud just like ebag4 described. After letting the glue cure for a couple of hours, I went over the back with 120 grit sandpaper on a random orbital sander and seam came out tight and smooth.
Thanks a lot everybody for your suggestions.
Mike
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Time for some more pics. I'll start with the crossover networks.
I have done a side by side comparison between one pair of X-LS Encores using upgraded (Sonicaps & Mills resistors) circuit boards and a second pair of X-LS Encores with point-to-point wired networks (additional upgrade to Erse XQ inductors). The additional expense is very minimal and I much preferred the sound of the point-to-point wired networks. So, like the last time, I decided to fully upgrade and point-to-point wire the crossover networks. I also put Sonicap Gen II by-pass caps in both the woofer and tweeter circuits. About the only thing I didn't do was use platinum by-pass caps
I decided to use a layout and board size that would work with both the CS-Encores and the MTM Encores. At this point the by-pass caps are soldered to the caps (I do this first because it's easier), the parts are attached to the boards and the connections are twisted together.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105194)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105195)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105196)
Next I started working on the grill frames. This was necessary at this point so I could install the magnets in the front baffles before putting the veneer on. Here is a picture of the grill frames for left and right CS Encore mains laid out ready for cutting.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105197)
Here are a few pics of the frames being routed out and shaped
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105198)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105199)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105200)
Here are a few after cutting the centers out on the table saw. The trick here is to set the blade depth to just a little over half the thickness of the frame. That way you get a clean cut without the blade cutting into parts of the frame you don't want cut.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105201)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105202)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105203)
Next I decided where I wanted to put the magnets and drilled holes in the frames using the drill press. After the holes were drilled I inserted dowel points into the holes so I could mark the location on the front baffles. Scotch tape came in handy for holding the dowel points in place.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105204)
Next I lined the grill frames up on the front baffles where I wanted them and used a rubber mallet to transfer the magnet locations to the front baffles.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105205)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105206)
Then I used a Forstner bit to drill out holes for the magnets and CA glue to hold them in place
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105207)
After that was done I filled in the holes with wood filler.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105208)
After the filler dried I sanded everything flush. Here is picture of one of the mains (it's on it's side) with the grill frame attached by the magnets
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105210)
I used N52 neodymium magnets, 1/4" x 1/4" in the frames and 3/8" x 1/4" in the front baffle.
The frames are not finished yet. I need to round off the top corners and put 3/8" roundovers on the flat portions. Then they will be stained black with India Ink and have black grill cloth stretched over them.
Mike
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You do nice work man :thumb:
I'm going to have to get myself a doweling accessory kit and start using the dowel pointers like you've shown instead of drilling the through holes in my frames to mark the magnet locations in the cabinet like I have been doing
-jay.
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Next batch of pictures:
Here are a couple of the X-CS Encores wrapped with the Ambrosia Maple veneer. The wet looking area is where I have applied a coat of shellack to seal the veneer before I apply the glue for the top of this speaker. This is to prevent any glue from getting on the already applied veneer and messing up the finish. This shellack will be sanded back to bare wood when the speaker gets preped for finishing.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105461)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105462)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105463)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105465)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105466)
In addition to the worm holes, Here is a pretty big void where a knot was. Not sure what I'm going to do with this. I may inlay crushed turquoise and/or red coral.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105468)
Mike
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Ahhhh, oops!! :oops:
Even though I was trying diligently to keep everything straight when laying out the grills. After applying the veneer I attached the frames to the cabinets and one of them didn't line up. It turns out I got the polarities of two magnets on one of the grill frames reversed.
Not a total disaster, I could always make another grill frame but I wanted to try and save this one.
I had put 1/4" diameter magnets in the frame. Now I just happen to have a 1/4" plug cutter. I wonder :scratch:. Turns out the plug cutter perfectly cut the magnets out of the frame. One item of note: I never plugged the drill press in during the extraction process. I turned the chuck by hand to cut the magnets out.
Of course I now had much bigger holes in the frame. I increased the diameter of the magnets to 5/16" (I didn't have any 3/8" diameter magnets or I would have used them). I used medium viscosity CA glue to stick the new magnets to the bottom of the hole. After that dried, I packed sawdust around the magnets up to about 1/16" from the top and applied thin viscosity CA glue until the sawdust wouldn't soak up any more. I let that dry overnight then used wood filler to fill up the holes. After sanding, the grill frame is as good as new and it now lines up properly on the speaker.
Unfortunately, I was a little ticked off at myself when I discovered this so I didn't think to take pictures to document the process.
Mike
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That's bummer, Mike. FWIW, I've been there, done that and so have many others, I'm sure.
If it's of any value to you, in one of my build threads, I outlined the way I do these now, which mitigates the possibility. I can find it if you like.
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That's bummer, Mike. FWIW, I've been there, done that and so have many others, I'm sure.
If it's of any value to you, in one of my build threads, I outlined the way I do these now, which mitigates the possibility. I can find it if you like.
I'd be interested in reading that Peter if you find the thread
-jay
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That's bummer, Mike. FWIW, I've been there, done that and so have many others, I'm sure.
If it's of any value to you, in one of my build threads, I outlined the way I do these now, which mitigates the possibility. I can find it if you like.
Peter,
Sure thing, I'm always open to ways of doing things easier or better.
I thought for sure I had a no miss solution this time. After drilling all the holes I randomly installed the magnets into the baffle. Once the glue had dried I stuck a second magnet to each one. The second magnets were the ones that would go into the grill frame.
Then, one at a time I transferred each magnet to its corresponding hole in the grill frame being careful (I thought) to make sure the end of the magnet I saw went into the bottom of the hole which would keep polarity intact. However, I still managed to get 2 (out of 18) magnets on the three CS-Encore frames turned around.
I still have 4 MTM Encore grill frames to mate with cabinets.
Mike
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Mike, when you've got the 2nd magnets stuck to the ones in the cabinets, just take a black marker and dab the exposed ends. When you install them in the frames, make sure the black end gets the glue and goes in first, just adds a bit more insurance yo don't accidently flip one around.
Of course, if you happen to stick a magnet inthe wrong hole, all bets are off !!
-jay
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Here's link to prior thread, about halfway down page
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=100369.60
Essentially, I pay no attention to how the magnets install in cabinet because they'll align themselves in the grills when I position them on cabinets. A by-product of doing it this way is that the grill (more than likely) becomes unique to specific cabinet, and if the grill happens to be symmetrical, even it's orientation on cabinet is likely to be determined. I say likely because there is a random chance that two grills would come out the same, but I imagine the odds are strongly against it, I'll let the statisticians figure that out.
I figured some of this out by accident when attempting to precisely locate a grill without introducing measurement error, which always plagued me. I usually make some mark on backside, like stamping a letter or number, to give a visual reference which grill goes with what cabinet, although one could most always figure it out by trial and error.
Is that helpful?
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Peter, thanks for sharing that link! You have more than a few nuggets in that thread and that was a quick scan. I will have to review it more closely. I am not certain how I missed it when originally posted.
I loved the "countersink the screw holes so the threads don't jack the veneer", :thumb:.
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I finally got the first pair of X-MTM Encores up and running. They are not quite finished yet. I still have to complete the bases and grills.
After just letting them play for a couple of days I sat down this evening and listened to them and they sounded AWFUL , TERRIBLE, really thin, all mids and highs but no bass. My X-LS Encores sounded fuller than these. WHAT DID I DO??? :scratch: :dunno:
I thought maybe I put too much AcustaStuff in and was blocking the ports so I removed the woofers pulled as much of the AcustaStuff out from around the ports as I could and half of what was behind the woofers. Put the drivers back in, hooked the speakers back up, turned on the music and ARRRGGGGgggggg still no bottom end.
I knew the system worked, I had just pulled the Wedgies out to burn in the MTM-Encores and :duh: I hooked the MTM Encores up to the Marantz AVR (can you see where this is going?) The AVR had the front speakers set to small with a crossover of 200Hz for the Wedgies :oops: no wonder I didn't have any bass.
I reset the fronts to large an viola they are singing like I expected them too. :banana piano:
I'm not sure how much difference removing the AcustaStuff from around the ports will make since I lined the entire cabinet all the way to the bottom with NoRez.
Now to stain and finish the second pair while these are breaking in.
Mike
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The first pair of X-MTM Encores are finished and heading to my nephew's tomorrow afternoon. Here are some pictures. There really is not a lot of eye candy here. He wanted them black with some wood grain so I used Ash veneer, dyed everything black then used blond shellack for the finish. I was trying for more of a matte finish with these so there wouldn't be any reflections from his TV.
For some reason, when the flash went off the grills came out looking grey. They are actually black and blend so well if it wasn't for the name badge you could barely see them in pictures.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=115432)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=115433)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=115434)
When the flash didn't go off the black was kind of washed out but you can tell the blending of the grills better
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=115435)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=115436)
Here is one without the grills
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=115437)
Mike
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Man, I wouldn't say there's not much eye candy, they look beautiful in the pics Mike. The finish looks amazing :thumb:
-jay
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I have completed and delivered the second pair of X-MTM Encores. These went to my niece and her family. I didn't take any pictures of these by themselves, they look exactly like the last pair I gave to my nephew. I burned this pair in downstairs so the X-MTM Encores were sitting next to my N3TL's. I didn't realize how big the X-MTM Encores were until I had them beside the N3TL's. On paper they don't seem like they would be that much bigger but they are. Here are a few pics:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119535)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119536)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119537)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119538)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119539)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=119540)
Noe to finish the X-CS Encores for my step daughter
Mike
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Hi Mike.
Sound wise, what's the difference between the N3TL and the X-MTM Encore ?
Thanks.
Guy 13
I own the N3 bookshelves and I am happy with the sound,
for my wife's home theater set up.
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Guy 13,
Very similar to the differences between the N1X and X-LS Encores. Both towers are fuller, deeper and have more presence then their corresponding monitor. While the Peerless tweeter in the Encores is excellent (silky smooth as Ruben has described) the Neo3 in the N3's is cleaner and more detailed. I don't mean to imply the Encores are not clean and detailed, they are, just that the N3's are more so.
I upgraded the crossovers for the X-MTM Encores to the same components as the N3TL with one exception. The Encores use Sonicap Gen II by-pass caps while the N3's use Sonicap Platinums. This gives the N3's a big advantage over the Encores. Between these two speakers, I prefer the N3's. But then, they cost me twice as much as the X-MTM Encores.
I don't want anybody reading this to think there is anything wrong with the X-MTM Encores, especially with the upgraded crossovers, there isn't. They are fantastic speakers. I just like my N3TL's better.
Mike
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Guy 13,
Very similar to the differences between the N1X and X-LS Encores. Both towers are fuller, deeper and have more presence then their corresponding monitor. While the Peerless tweeter in the Encores is excellent (silky smooth as Ruben has described) the Neo3 in the N3's is cleaner and more detailed. I don't mean to imply the Encores are not clean and detailed, they are, just that the N3's are more so.
I upgraded the crossovers for the X-MTM Encores to the same components as the N3TL with one exception. The Encores use Sonicap Gen II by-pass caps while the N3's use Sonicap Platinums. This gives the N3's a big advantage over the Encores. Between these two speakers, I prefer the N3's. But then, they cost me twice as much as the X-MTM Encores.
I don't want anybody reading this to think there is anything wrong with the X-MTM Encores, especially with the upgraded crossovers, there isn't. They are fantastic speakers. I just like my N3TL's better.
Mike
Thanks Mike for taking the time to explain the difference
between the two speakers.
Guy 13