[WGH]

Another reason I choose Triad was because I needed an enclosure for the speaker and some Triad models come in an air tight box. Between the blown insulation and 125 degree attic heat during the summer the speakers needed some protection. Crawling into the attic to build enclosures was a no-go, I tried and bailed immediately.



Working from below was more fun

[Carlman]

Did they use furniture grade pine for your trusses?  Your roof looks like furniture! Very nicely done.
Modern builders just slap it together with gouges, overcuts, huge tolerances and lots of nails and plates holding it together.

[Vince in TX]

Did they use furniture grade pine for your trusses?  Your roof looks like furniture! Very nicely done.
Modern builders just slap it together with gouges, overcuts, huge tolerances and lots of nails and plates holding it together.

Are you referring to the color?   That's probably just heat discoloration.   This is from my Home Theater project.   You can clearly see the difference between the 15 year old lumber and the new lumber:

[WGH]

Did they use furniture grade pine for your trusses?  Your roof looks like furniture! Very nicely done.

My house was built in 1950, back then all the framing was done by actual carpenters. The wood is Douglas fir which is often confused with pine but they are two different species. Pine is much softer and is used for big beams and posts. Back in the 20th Century big old growth Douglas fir trees were plentiful so much of the lumber was clear, tight grained with very small pin knots. Old barn beams are valuable because they are usually clear fir that can be resawn into premium lumber.

The new wood Vince in TX's photo is also Douglas fir.

[Vince in TX]

....

The new wood Vince in TX's photo is also Douglas fir.

Good to know.   I guess I need to brush up on lumber species.   

Here is the original frame construction from 2005, which is why I wondered about the discoloration from age and (in the Houston, TX metroplex) humidity.   Definitely knotty pine:

[mcgsxr]

Some excellent ideas here so far.

Here is a link to my build - https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=113424.0

And I had some specific questions about what to wire up before drywall - https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=113851.0

You might find some ideas in those 2 threads, I was thrilled with the participation from the community during my own builds.  I did all the LV wiring myself, it was finishing a basement vs a net new build so I was around all evenings to do what I wanted without getting in the way of the core workers etc.

[Vince in TX]

....

You might find some ideas in those 2 threads, I was thrilled with the participation from the community during my own builds.  I did all the LV wiring myself, it was finishing a basement vs a net new build so I was around all evenings to do what I wanted without getting in the way of the core workers etc.

I wish I knew this site existed before I ran the wires into the walls.   I used AudioQuest 16AWG (2-wire).   I should have used at least 14AWG 4-wire.   Fortunately, for my front L/R channels I ran two pairs for future bi-amp, but instead ganged them together to effectively make a 10AWG connection from the amp to the speakers.

[ctviggen]

It probably won't make too much of a difference, honestly.  In fact, I wonder if you took 16 gauge wire and put it into huge tubes and played that, then ran normal 10 gauge wire and played that, if you'd notice the difference?  I'm sure your brain would select the huge tubes.

But if you had a blind test, would you notice the difference?  I personally doubt it. 

[Vince in TX]

It probably won't make too much of a difference, honestly.  In fact, I wonder if you took 16 gauge wire and put it into huge tubes and played that, then ran normal 10 gauge wire and played that, if you'd notice the difference?  I'm sure your brain would select the huge tubes.

But if you had a blind test, would you notice the difference?  I personally doubt it.

Well, it's hard to say.   Before I got my Odyssey amps, I was only using a single pair of the 16AWG to my X-Static speakers.   Higher volumes had noticeable clipping from the front channels.   I added the Odyssey amps at the same time when I ganged the two pairs together, and now I have perfect clarity all the way to deafening levels.   In fact, some movies have a lot of low-level sound, so I'd crank the volume for better immersion.   And then BOOOM!   Something would blow the hell up (like in the movie "1917").   It sounds and feels like the bomb went off in the room with exquisite, shocking clarity.   And with the Soundshakers in the mix, it will wake you up real  quick.

That may have been the AVR getting overloaded with 11 channels amplified.   Taking away the three largest channels (front L/R and C) no doubt played a huge role.   I could always disconnect one of the pairs for scientific purposes.   Bear in mind that it's at least a 25' run from my AVR/amps to the speakers.

[Jumpin]

Fortunately, the builder agreed to install the wiring pre-sheet rock according to my sound contractors specifications. Should be in the next couple of weeks.   I’m hoping to have all the controls on an app from my phone. 

[JLM]

Avoid squarish rooms (harder to do for HT than audio) and relatively low ceilings (hard to do in a basement).  Do insulate walls and ceiling/floor above.  Insulated staggered stud walls is the most practical method.  Use 1" metal furring strips to suspend the ceiling and avoid recessed can light fixtures.  Use lined/insulated flex duct and insulated exterior fiberglass door with weather seal.  Insulate under floor slab for comfort (only way to earn a 5 star EPA rating for design).  Run separate circuit(s) and grounding for HT gear.  I did all that 16 years ago for my audio room (except for the recessed can lights).  Ended up being the cheapest finished space in the house.