AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: Chops on 26 Apr 2018, 06:06 am
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Danny, several years ago, you sold these bass guitar drivers for I believe the first version of the V-1's. They are now discontinued drivers, but I purchased four of them from you with the plans of building V-1's which never happened. I still have these drivers, still brand new and still sealed up in the shipping packaging.
I would like to use these drivers for some small H-Frames to go along with my X-Statik's. Would either one of your amps (HX300 or A370PEQ) be compatible with these drivers to get the most out of them?
I also have a pair of JL Audio e110 subs that do amazingly well, but there's still no contest against OB bass. Since I have these subs, the Eminence Neo drivers and a dbx DriveRack Venu 360, I was thinking I could do a band-pass on the OB subs, running them from something like 30Hz - 80Hz, the JL's from 30Hz down, and the X-Statik's from 80Hz on up.
The OB subs would be right up against the side walls but about 3' out from the front wall. I'd put the JL's behind them, tucked into the corners.
I think this would be a cool little project and wouldn't cost me more than just a couple of your amps and some wood and time.
This would all be in a 12' x 13' room. What do you think? Many thanks in advance!
Here's what I'm working with... BTW, still loving these X-Statik's! All of those upgrades I did to the crossovers and No-Rez was definitely worth it!
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2838660730-5.jpg)
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2838660731-5.jpg)
And just for fun if anyone is interested... http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-6/o512036193/c1/p2839711776-200.mp4 (http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-6/o512036193/c1/p2839711776-200.mp4)
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Yeah, those X-Statiks are great.
That is a pretty lively looking room you have there. Some tube traps in those rear corners, some treatment on that front wall, and a big thick throw rug would go a long way.
I still have a bunch of those 12" Eminence drivers, by the way. And putting them in a H frame would be a great use of them.
Our servo amps won't work with them. Use one of these amps from Apex Jr. http://apexjr.com/amps.html They used to have one that allowed a 3db or 6db bass boost at 25 to 30Hz. Ask Steve about them.
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Yeah, those X-Statiks are great.
That is a pretty lively looking room you have there. Some tube traps in those rear corners, some treatment on that front wall, and a big thick throw rug would go a long way.
I still have a bunch of those 12" Eminence drivers, by the way. And putting them in a H frame would be a great use of them.
Our servo amps won't work with them. Use one of these amps from Apex Jr. http://apexjr.com/amps.html They used to have one that allowed a 3db or 6db bass boost at 25 to 30Hz. Ask Steve about them.
The X-Statik's are great, and still going strong! I love them. I'll try a bunch of different speakers but always come back to them.
Yes, I have plans for the room. Thinking of a huge heavy curtain along the entire front wall to soak up some of those rear waves, and a throw rug definitely. Just baby steps right now as I'm replacing receptacles, switches and plates all over the house, including "audiophile" grade Pangea ones in here.
How do those Eminence drivers perform? Are they good on their own or would it be best to run the JL's along with them? What's the model # on them so I can look up their specs? I don't think I ever read anything about how they sounded in H-Frames.
Also, I guess the servo amps have to use DVC drivers and these are not. If that's the case, I can probably run them off of one of my Carver M-500t amps (highly modified to MkII status) and use the crossover and tuning within the dbx Venu 360. I can adjust phase, and EQ, etc, etc with it on each channel. That way, I would have more than enough power and not have to pay extra for anything other than wood for the H-Frames.
How about those crossover points I mentioned? Sound decent enough or should I run them up a little higher around 100Hz as well as cut the X-Statik's at 100Hz?
Thanks a bunch in advance!
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It sounds like you have a great plan in place.
The woofer specs are here: https://mcbrideloudspeaker.com/Eminence-ACOUSTINATOR-N2012.html
They work great in an open baffle especially if loaded slightly by a H frame design. They don't have a lot of X-Max but using a lot of them doesn't require a lot of X-Max to move a lot of air either.
Your amp and dbx should be fine for them.
The natural roll off of the X-Statiks will put them -3db in the 40 to 60Hz range. It really depends on the room. You'll want to cross them where they are -6db down. Typically this in the 35Hz to 45Hz range. I'd start there.
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Thanks for the link, Danny. I've been searching the net high and low and couldn't find anything not remembering the model # and all.
I was just thinking... You said you still have a bunch of them. These particular Carver amps can run a 4 ohm load, but they don't like it too much if the impedance swings lower than that with any volume. So maybe we can work out a deal on four more of these drivers so I can keep my amp at a happy 8 ohm load, not to mention have a LOT more cone area. If you know me, I'm one for overkill. LOL
Maybe if I do that, I won't have to use the JL's at all.
My thinking behind the higher crossover point was to lessen the output of the woofers in the X-Statik's and getting more of that OB sound from the subs to match up with the OB sound of the mids. But I may be thinking about it all wrong. I just know that I love OB bass from my one and only project using those old Pyle PPA15 drivers... The BEST subwoofers I ever heard or owned. I still have those drivers as well.
What kind of extension can I expect from these N2012 drivers? What about with eight of them? I'm serious about buying four more.
Thanks again Danny. I greatly appreciate it as always!
-Charles
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Thanks for the link, Danny. I've been searching the net high and low and couldn't find anything not remembering the model # and all.
I was just thinking... You said you still have a bunch of them. These particular Carver amps can run a 4 ohm load, but they don't like it too much if the impedance swings lower than that with any volume. So maybe we can work out a deal on four more of these drivers so I can keep my amp at a happy 8 ohm load, not to mention have a LOT more cone area. If you know me, I'm one for overkill. LOL
Maybe if I do that, I won't have to use the JL's at all.
My thinking behind the higher crossover point was to lessen the output of the woofers in the X-Statik's and getting more of that OB sound from the subs to match up with the OB sound of the mids. But I may be thinking about it all wrong. I just know that I love OB bass from my one and only project using those old Pyle PPA15 drivers... The BEST subwoofers I ever heard or owned. I still have those drivers as well.
What kind of extension can I expect from these N2012 drivers? What about with eight of them? I'm serious about buying four more.
Thanks again Danny. I greatly appreciate it as always!
-Charles
That's a great idea. I'll let you have as many of them as you want for $75 a piece.
With a bass boost feature of 6db at 30Hz then that should put them pretty flat or at least to a -3db in the low 20's.
The X-Statik's will have a 12db per octave natural roll off. So crossing them low with the same slope will allow them to blend really well. If you half to just use a single inline filter with them that will just drop out the bottom octave and make them (electrically) about 6db down at 40Hz. Then acoustically that could push the crossover point up to 50Hz or so.
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That's a great idea. I'll let you have as many of them as you want for $75 a piece.
With a bass boost feature of 6db at 30Hz then that should put them pretty flat or at least to a -3db in the low 20's.
The X-Statik's will have a 12db per octave natural roll off. So crossing them low with the same slope will allow them to blend really well. If you half to just use a single inline filter with them that will just drop out the bottom octave and make them (electrically) about 6db down at 40Hz. Then acoustically that could push the crossover point up to 50Hz or so.
Thanks Danny!
A member here on the forum contacted me, saying that he has two lightly used N2012 drivers that he will sell me at a good price. If that goes through, I'll only need to buy two more from you.
Nice thing about using eight of these drivers, running them with +6 dB of boost won't even put a strain on them. They should theoretically just loaf along. And if I can get a good solid low 20's out them them, that would be nice.
The thing I'm worried about is building the OB's like the bottom half of your V1/V2's. If I do that, these would stand nearly 4' tall. I really don't like the idea of having large flat reflective surfaces that close to the MTM OB section of the X-Statik's. I might as well just move the X-Statik's up against he side walls now. LOL
So now I'm wondering, what kind of differences in sound will I get from these N2012 drivers going from H-frames to something like ri-poles? I would think you would get better sound in H-frames because of the fact that the drivers are actually facing you, so you're getting the sound coming directly from them. With a ri-pole, you're getting the indirect sound from them via the opening of the front cavity.
Should this be a valid concern?
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The Ripole design tends to be little buzz boxes as they have a large un-braced panel in front of each driver. And then you have to make that panel really thick and heavy to get past it. The can also cause an un-even response as you are really making a band pass box tuned to a frequency that is just above where you are trying to use them.
You'll get much better sound from the H frame design.
You could also lay them all flat on their sides. You don't have to stand them up.
They also don't have to be to the inside of the X-Statiks or parallel to them.
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The Ripole design tends to be little buzz boxes as they have a large un-braced panel in front of each driver. And then you have to make that panel really thick and heavy to get past it. The can also cause an un-even response as you are really making a band pass box tuned to a frequency that is just above where you are trying to use them.
You'll get much better sound from the H frame design.
You could also lay them all flat on their sides. You don't have to stand them up.
They also don't have to be to the inside of the X-Statiks or parallel to them.
That's one of the things I was afraid of with the Ripoles. Any time there's a cavity like that, something negative is bound to happen.
If I build the H-frames 4' tall, and I place them behind the X-Statik's, how close to the front wall can they be and still produce good sound? What about the rear wave of the X-Statik's getting bounced around on the inside front of the H-frames where the drivers around mounted? Would that be a concern? Does that make sense? Ha!
Oh, is there a particular size the H-frames should be for these drivers? I would like them to be as compact as possible while still providing clean detailed output.
I'll have to draw out a floor plan of the room and show you what kind of space I'm working with.
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I was just thinking... Are there still any H-frame flat packs available for these drivers? Or any 12" drivers for that matter?
I have zero wood working tools anymore and trying to find someone to help me with this is probably going to be next to impossible. Not to mention I don't have much in wood working skills.
BTW guys, this whole thread isn't only directed to Danny. Anyone is welcome to participate.
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Jay and Don cut flat packs for our servo subs. And these 12" Eminence drivers fit the same through hole size.
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Jay and Don cut flat packs for our servo subs. And these 12" Eminence drivers fit the same through hole size.
Thank you Danny.
Unfortunately, I don't know who either of those gentlemen are. If I had their screen names, I could contact them via PM if available.
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Thank you Danny.
Unfortunately, I don't know who either of those gentlemen are. If I had their screen names, I could contact them via PM if available.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=139480.0
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Thanks Danny. I think I'll pass on that. That's a ton of $$$ just for some MDF.
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hey Chops
Of course, you are entitled to your opinion... they may seem expenssive at first glance but when you look at CNC machining costs, material costs (try sourcing 1.5 MDF), our time to do custom roundovers etc for each cabinet, packaging etc, they are very reasonable.
Read through the thread, look what the packs include and read the customers comments. We've never had a single customer feel they were over charged, in fact, we've had numerous people think the prices were per cabinet, not per pair
The packs allow people with no or limited woodworking skills and / or a limited access to tools to build out a pair of cabinets and achieve incrdible rsults with minimal effort.
If at any point you have 2nd thoughts about these, feel free to contact me, I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have
jay
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I didn't exactly mean it that way. If it was only a pair I was going after, then it wouldn't be so bad. But I need two pairs, and I'm not quite prepared to spend $1200 on H-frames.
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We also have a modular design, here are a couple pics of some quads.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=179705) (https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=179706)
No worries man, was just clarifying as that was kind of the way it came out... but I get it.
Unfortunately, the modular design will run be a similar amount of money. I know our module design has cut the costs of these rougly in half from a previous modular design.
These modular subs are cut from 1.25", 1", and .625" Medex.
jay
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I didn't exactly mean it that way. If it was only a pair I was going after, then it wouldn't be so bad. But I need two pairs, and I'm not quite prepared to spend $1200 on H-frames.
I think what you want is only $550.
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Off topic, but digging that Carver gear in your pics. Very cool retro gear. :thumb:
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I think what you want is only $550.
To be perfectly honest, even that's a bit too steep currently for me.
I'm also asking around locally with a few guys I know that do wood working. It's just a matter of getting to see them to ask. One of them builds custom furniture and his work is better than anything you would ever see in a store. Heavy, solid, built to last.
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Off topic, but digging that Carver gear in your pics. Very cool retro gear. :thumb:
Thank you sir! At least with their many upgrades and mods, they don't sound "retro" anymore. :wink:
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Okay, so I have a couple of updates on the project... And a question... The question probably directed more towards Danny...
1) I decided on and ordered a pair of Audio Nirvana Super 12 Ferrite fullrange drivers that I will allow to play fullrange. The amp that will be powering these will get a direct feed straight out of the preamp, completely bypassing the dbx Venu 360.
2) One of my friends right here in town is a teacher at one of the high schools, and has complete access to the CNC machine after hours and during the summer. So that means I will be having these cut out on the CNC machine for next to nothing. I'm going to use a combination of both 0.75" MDF and 0.75" BB plywood. In the end, everything including the flat OB panel for the AN Super 12 will be 1.5".
3) Danny, how high of a crossover frequency can I play the Acoustinator N2012 drivers in the H-frames without sacrificing sound quality?
The reason I ask is because even though the AN drivers will be getting a fullrange signal, they're going to be on fairly small baffles, so they won't have much bass support of their own. I'm not even sure how low they can extend on their own without a baffle. I'll have to ask that in the OB forum probably.
Many thanks! I'm excited about this new project.
P.S. - Danny, I still need to by that other pair of N2012 drivers from you!
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1) I decided on and ordered a pair of Audio Nirvana Super 12 Ferrite fullrange drivers that I will allow to play fullrange. The amp that will be powering these will get a direct feed straight out of the preamp, completely bypassing the dbx Venu 360.
I have tested and measured that driver on an open baffle. I dropped it into a Super-V test baffle so it was already optimized for a 12" driver in an open baffle and the baffle width plus side wings of that model helped keep the response flat down to a crossover point of just below 200Hz. At least it did with the Super-V driver.
The Audio Nirvana driver isn't a driver you can just drop in an play full range with no filter. And I am not talking about just a high pass filter. It needed an extensive compensation filter to control the rising response, response peaks, and break up modes.
Here was the measured on axis response.
(http://www.gr-research.com/pics/Audio%20Nirvana%20Super%2012%20response.jpg)
It was real thin down low and would take your head off hot up top.
With an eight part compensation filter I was able to correct the response as seen here. The corrected response is obviously the red line.
(http://www.gr-research.com/pics/Audio%20Nirvana%20Super%2012%20response%20overlay.jpg)
Even after damping out the resonance peaks there was still a lot of stored energy and break up in those areas. So a lot of that ringing just doesn't go away.
(http://www.gr-research.com/pics/Audio%20Nirvana%20Super%2012%20CSD%20triple%20compensation.jpg)
The other issue with a driver that large in diameter playing full range is that it has really poor off axis response. So the highs are only present directly in front of them. As you move off axis the highs drop out rapidly.
(http://www.gr-research.com/pics/Audio%20Nirvana%20Super%2012%20response%20with%20compensation%20off%20axis.jpg)
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2) One of my friends right here in town is a teacher at one of the high schools, and has complete access to the CNC machine after hours and during the summer. So that means I will be having these cut out on the CNC machine for next to nothing. I'm going to use a combination of both 0.75" MDF and 0.75" BB plywood. In the end, everything including the flat OB panel for the AN Super 12 will be 1.5".
If you are already used to listening to X-Statiks then you are going to find these very different (to be nice). Before I'd put much time or effort into them you might want to do some preliminary test and listening.
3) Danny, how high of a crossover frequency can I play the Acoustinator N2012 drivers in the H-frames without sacrificing sound quality?
The Acoustinators will play up to about 1kHz pretty easily. Ideally though you want to stay just below the mid-range. So 200Hz is usually the upper sweet spot.
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I have tested and measured that driver on an open baffle. I dropped it into a Super-V test baffle so it was already optimized for a 12" driver in an open baffle and the baffle width plus side wings of that model helped keep the response flat down to a crossover point of just below 200Hz. At least it did with the Super-V driver.
The Audio Nirvana driver isn't a driver you can just drop in an play full range with no filter. And I am not talking about just a high pass filter. It needed an extensive compensation filter to control the rising response, response peaks, and break up modes.
Here was the measured on axis response.
It was real thin down low and would take your head off hot up top.
With an eight part compensation filter I was able to correct the response as seen here. The corrected response is obviously the red line.
Even after damping out the resonance peaks there was still a lot of stored energy and break up in those areas. So a lot of that ringing just doesn't go away.
The other issue with a driver that large in diameter playing full range is that it has really poor off axis response. So the highs are only present directly in front of them. As you move off axis the highs drop out rapidly.
I know that these drivers are a bit "harsh" right out of the box. I've read where they take upwards of 200+ hours to finally calm down. After that, if they still need help, I might come to you about those compensation filters, or run them through the dbx to tame them. I don't know how many hours you had on the particular drivers you measured. I don't plan on doing any critical listening or review of them until I know they are fully broken in. It shouldn't take more than a couple of weeks since the system is up and running 24/7.
As for poor off axis response, that's really no big deal either. I'm typically the only one listening, and I always sit in the sweet spot. Plus, being in a small room, that beaming will probably help reduce early reflections.
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If you are already used to listening to X-Statiks then you are going to find these very different (to be nice). Before I'd put much time or effort into them you might want to do some preliminary test and listening.
The Acoustinators will play up to about 1kHz pretty easily. Ideally though you want to stay just below the mid-range. So 200Hz is usually the upper sweet spot.
The X-Statik's are definitely in a different league from much of anything else. I expect the Audio Nirvana's to sound different, and am prepared for that. I just need to learn to be patient while they break in.
Glad to learn that the Acoustinator drivers will play that high, but yes, I wouldn't get them into the midrange. I just don't want the H-frames to contribute to the sound, but I imagine 200 Hz is still in the safe zone, even for the H-frames.
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I know that these drivers are a bit "harsh" right out of the box. I've read where they take upwards of 200+ hours to finally calm down. After that, if they still need help, I might come to you about those compensation filters, or run them through the dbx to tame them. I don't know how many hours you had on the particular drivers you measured. I don't plan on doing any critical listening or review of them until I know they are fully broken in. It shouldn't take more than a couple of weeks since the system is up and running 24/7.
The burn in time won't change the frequency response. It changes the compliance and lessons the stored energy, but all those peaks are still present from day one and on. The same goes for the rising response.
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The burn in time won't change the frequency response. It changes the compliance and lessons the stored energy, but all those peaks are still present from day one and on. The same goes for the rising response.
Not saying you're wrong or trying to argue with you, but...
I have heard many speakers totally change in their overall sound from break-in. I had Magnepan's that sounded like the cardboard box they came out of when I first fired them up. After a couple of weeks, they sounded just as clean and natural as any other Maggie out there. They wen't from no bass and thin mid-bass to having nice full mid-bass and somewhat decent bass (considering).
I've had several Fostex and Mark Audio Alpair drivers that sounded cupped and hallow with very etchy treble, to the point of being extremely annoying to listen to. Over some time of break-in, they opened up as well as the treble smoothing out. The Alpair's were on OB's.
Even the subwoofers in my car when a bit on the lean side at first. But after a week of working them in, plus "burning in" in the Florida heat, they filled in nicely.
So in my experience, the amount of compliance and stored energy does effect the frequency response and those peaks to a degree. Now the rising response, probably not so much. However, that can somewhat be tamed by positioning them slightly off-axis. Remember, I'll be able to move these around freely as they will be completely separate from the H-frames.
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Not saying you're wrong or trying to argue with you, but...
I have heard many speakers totally change in their overall sound from break-in. I had Magnepan's that sounded like the cardboard box they came out of when I first fired them up. After a couple of weeks, they sounded just as clean and natural as any other Maggie out there. They wen't from no bass and thin mid-bass to having nice full mid-bass and somewhat decent bass (considering).
I've had several Fostex and Mark Audio Alpair drivers that sounded cupped and hallow with very etchy treble, to the point of being extremely annoying to listen to. Over some time of break-in, they opened up as well as the treble smoothing out. The Alpair's were on OB's.
Even the subwoofers in my car when a bit on the lean side at first. But after a week of working them in, plus "burning in" in the Florida heat, they filled in nicely.
So in my experience, the amount of compliance and stored energy does effect the frequency response and those peaks to a degree. Now the rising response, probably not so much. However, that can somewhat be tamed by positioning them slightly off-axis. Remember, I'll be able to move these around freely as they will be completely separate from the H-frames.
The bass can change from the compliance change. And all of those drivers do change in the way they sound after break in, but the measured frequency response doesn't. It's just in the spectral decay (stored energy) where you hear a difference, and that too is from the softer compliance. And I have measured a lot of drivers before and after burn in times. In one set of tests I measured drivers at many intervals during burn in. Above 100Hz or so they won't change.
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I see it this way... If I don't like the sound after break-in, I'll play with toe in-out. If that doesn't cut it, I'll run them through the dbx and see what I can achieve there. If that gets me close, maybe we can work on something for that compensation filter you were talking about earlier.
Something tells me I'm going to like the results regardless. But if not, I always have the X-Statik's to fall back on, and can sell the AN's. Only time will tell.
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Danny
Do you recommend the Apex 150w or 250w plate amp versions?
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Danny
Do you recommend the Apex 150w or 250w plate amp versions?
Both of those amps are pretty good amps. For this application I'd go with the higher powered version. And I'd ask Steve about the bass boost modification.
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Well I have the new OB's up and running, on temporary baffles. The final system will be significantly larger. I have to say, treble extension is surprisingly good, and bass output and extension is shockingly good as well. Tight, punchy bass with solid useful output down to 35 Hz. It fades off rather quick after that however. Even male and female vocals sound rather good. There's a little bit of an edge to them, but nothing like I was expecting.
The current arrangement is as follows...
Vertically bi-amped, the Audio Nirvana's are receiving a fullrange signal while the Eminence Acoustinator's are being crossed over at 190 Hz as well as being boosted +11 dB. No EQ or other tone controls are used, nor are the JL subs. They are powered down.
The baffles are 48" tall, 15" wide with a 9" wing on one side. Speaking of the wings, I have them on the outside. I don't know if that makes any difference or not.
Anyway, a few pics...
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2874611948-5.jpg)
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2874611950-5.jpg)
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2874612022-5.jpg)
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2874612019-5.jpg)
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After further listening and about 30 hours of break-in, the AN's are coming along quite nicely.
And those little N2012 drivers are thumping right along!
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I am pleasantly puzzled as to why and/or how these N2012 drivers are producing such strong, deep bass on these small baffles.
I now have them boosted to +13 dB to keep up with the AN's. They are (the N2012's) crossed over at 200 Hz @ 36 dB. No EQ, no tone controls, just straight signal, and these two little 12's are digging deep down into the low 30's effortlessly, with zero signs of stress, and barely any cone movement! And I'm currently hitting musical peaks of 92 dB with just about 5 watts of peak input. The AN's aren't even touching 1 watt yet.
This bass though... It's so musical, detailed, tight, punchy, agile, tactile, extended and just so damn good!
I removed the two JL Audio subs from the room this morning and I can honestly say that I don't miss them one bit! I think I'm going to be in for a real treat once I get all eight of these N2012 drivers up and running. I'll be able to back that gain way down and these drivers will just be idling along the entire time.
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2878496867-5.jpg)
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Just got in my 4th pair of Eminence Acoustinator N2012 drivers today from Danny.
This is a crude sketch, but this is pretty much what I plan on building. Maybe, hopefully starting on it this weekend. Kind of up in the air as far as the fullrange baffle design. I'll probably make both like Danny suggests and see which performs better.
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2897692171-5.jpg)
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Danny, several years ago, you sold these bass guitar drivers for I believe the first version of the V-1's. They are now discontinued drivers, but I purchased four of them from you with the plans of building V-1's which never happened. I still have these drivers, still brand new and still sealed up in the shipping packaging.
Now about 7 years or more old, and here they are, still sealed up like I said. LOL
I promise they won't be this time tomorrow!!! :thumb:
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2901712298-5.jpg)
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Delays, delays. If I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all... :evil:
Go to Lowe's grab the plywood, go to get it cut down, their saw is out of service.
Go to the other end of town to Home Depot. They had nothing but junk plywood.
Go to the next town over to another Lowe's. They have the wood but we would have to dig down about a foot to get to good, undamaged sheets. Before doing that, go make sure the saw works and find a note on it to warn customers that the saw is out of square and is off an 1/8" for every 12"... What the heck?! We asked one of the schmucks there and as usual, they had no clue what they were talking about, so we walked out.
So 3 hours and 50 miles wasted. Well, almost... My brother told us about a nice little restaurant down the street that has really good deep fried chicken gizzards, livers and fish. So we all went there and I treated them to lunch. Plus I let one of my brothers drive my car so I could take some pics and video of it going down the road. :thumb:
Anyway, now it will be another two weeks at least until I can attempt to build these again. :scratch:
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Just for fun since I can't do anything else at the moment except sit and listen to these temp baffles. As I've mentioned before, no EQ or other tone controls. Just simply gain adjustments on the two 12" Eminence Acoustinator woofers. This was taken at the listening position. Not bad at all I'd say...
(http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-3/p2906056232-5.jpg)