[poseidonsvoice]

Jacko2X,

Front Panel Express is your friend.

Great work.

Anand.

[roymail]

Front Panel Express is your friend.

Translation please?    Never mind, got it from google, but for others, here you go...

http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/

Very nice job, Jacko2X.

[jacko2x]

Front Panel Express it is

[pardales]

Beautiful! Simple, elegant, professional looking. Things have come a loooooonnnnnngg way in 1500 posts!!!! Most excellent.
steve k

Agreed. Really nice work.

[DustyC]

Front Panel Express it is

Any chance you could make available your templates so I could order the same thing? Or did you cut all the openings yourself. I haven't quite gotten the hang of Front Panel's software.  Nice case though. I like to get one in silver.

[6SN7]

Very nicely done Jacko!  A clean, professional design perfectly executed.
Bob

[jacko2x]

Thank you everyone for the kind words. I finally got around to get some better pictures to give the amp more justice. Please see below for the parts used and where to get them:





And since the chassis can only accomodate a single amp due to its 12x12 area, the insides look kinda cramped. It might be possible to fit in another amp module, but that would mean moving the toroid to one side and unevenly distributing the weight of the entire chassis.


I take no credit for the chassis. That credit goes to someone who posted his build of his various headphone separates on head-case (Google: "context engineering 350dt forum"). The design of the rear panel is based on the idea that the power goes in through the center while binding posts are on the far left and right sides to give the chassis even weight distribution. The inputs are placed between the binding posts and IEC switch to avoid interconnects and speaker cables from crossing each other on a vertical rack. And also, the Toroid sits in the center: again for even weight distribution.

So I guess, my quest for an amp to replace my 15W hybrid tube speaker / headphone amp ends here. Next up Mini Statements to replace my Infinity 360's.

I owe a lot of my inspiration to this community, so it's time to give back:
Materials:
1. Chassis (Context Engineering Desktop Enclosure 350DT. It comes in Silver btw.)  - Approx. $88 for the 12x12.
2. CNC cost w/ FPE - Approx. $130
3. IEC Switch -  http://cgi.ebay.com/Tube-amp-IEC-AC-Switch-Fuse-Line-Phono-Preamp-Amp-DIY-/140353300866?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item20adb56982#ht_1009wt_1139
4. Binding posts - Cardas Patented Binding post (CPBP CRS). I would go for the rhodium plating since all you add is a couple of bucks.
5. Bulgin Latching Vandal Switch - Digikey: 708-1455-ND
6. RCA of your choice
7. Large IsoNodes for feet
8. Radioshack: RED & Orange LEDs, and Tie downs to keep wires in place.

PM me your email address for FPE templates if you're interested.

Cheers and happy listening everyone,

Ed

[Mariusz]

Thanks Ed
great pics and
very nice of you to inclued the links
as well as tips regarding your build.
 

Mariusz

[guest1632]

Thank you everyone for the kind words. I finally got around to get some better pictures to give the amp more justice. Please see below for the parts used and where to get them:





And since the chassis can only accomodate a single amp due to its 12x12 area, the insides look kinda cramped. It might be possible to fit in another amp module, but that would mean moving the toroid to one side and unevenly distributing the weight of the entire chassis.


I take no credit for the chassis. That credit goes to someone who posted his build of his various headphone separates on head-case (Google: "context engineering 350dt forum"). The design of the rear panel is based on the idea that the power goes in through the center while binding posts are on the far left and right sides to give the chassis even weight distribution. The inputs are placed between the binding posts and IEC switch to avoid interconnects and speaker cables from crossing each other on a vertical rack. And also, the Toroid sits in the center: again for even weight distribution.

So I guess, my quest for an amp to replace my 15W hybrid tube speaker / headphone amp ends here. Next up Mini Statements to replace my Infinity 360's.

I owe a lot of my inspiration to this community, so it's time to give back:
Materials:
1. Chassis (Context Engineering Desktop Enclosure 350DT. It comes in Silver btw.)  - Approx. $88 for the 12x12.
2. CNC cost w/ FPE - Approx. $130
3. IEC Switch -  http://cgi.ebay.com/Tube-amp-IEC-AC-Switch-Fuse-Line-Phono-Preamp-Amp-DIY-/140353300866?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item20adb56982#ht_1009wt_1139
4. Binding posts - Cardas Patented Binding post (CPBP CRS). I would go for the rhodium plating since all you add is a couple of bucks.
5. Bulgin Latching Vandal Switch - Digikey: 708-1455-ND
6. RCA of your choice
7. Large IsoNodes for feet
8. Radioshack: RED & Orange LEDs, and Tie downs to keep wires in place.

PM me your email address for FPE templates if you're interested.

Cheers and happy listening everyone,

Ed

Hi Ed,

pm me please with your template. I do have a question concerning the back panel layout.

If you are wiring so the Left and Right speaker connectors are on either left and right sides of the chassis respectively, then looking at the chassis from the backside, the right channel speaker wires would if I read this correctly, cross AC lines. If you are looking at the chasis from the back panel, I would think the speaker jacks would both go left of where the transformer is mounted in the center. Sorry, can't see your pics due to a slight blindness issue getting in the way. lol

Nevertheless, am interested in how the whole thing sounds. I am interested in your layout scheme too. TTYL

Ray Bronk

[roymail]

Ed, thanks for the great pics and build information.  Very helpful.

Will you share with us your thoughts on the performance of your Super D amp? 

[jacko2x]

Subjective feedback: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=81176.msg787948#msg787948

I'm waiting on my friend to bring over his Von Schweikert VR1 speakers over so we can listen to my setup with those speakers.

Ed, thanks for the great pics and build information.  Very helpful.

Will you share with us your thoughts on the performance of your Super D amp? 

[roymail]

Looks like another positive review and satisfied CDA customer.  Thanks, Ed.  Nice to know it mates well with the LDR attenuator.

The Affordable Audio review should be out soon, too. 

[jacko2x]

Yes, unfortunately the speaker line on one side does cross the AC line. Thanks for pointing this out. I should do something about this later. The  rca-in does not cross at all since the wire towards the rear panel floats high up on the IEC switch. I just posted a link on how my whole setup sounds on the EVA2 thread. Link is in my previous post on this thread.

Hi Ed,

pm me please with your template. I do have a question concerning the back panel layout.

If you are wiring so the Left and Right speaker connectors are on either left and right sides of the chassis respectively, then looking at the chassis from the backside, the right channel speaker wires would if I read this correctly, cross AC lines. If you are looking at the chasis from the back panel, I would think the speaker jacks would both go left of where the transformer is mounted in the center. Sorry, can't see your pics due to a slight blindness issue getting in the way. lol

Nevertheless, am interested in how the whole thing sounds. I am interested in your layout scheme too. TTYL

Ray Bronk

[jacko2x]

I'm considering getting a tube buffer to place between the pre and amp to see if there are any sonic benefits, but I'll probably consider revisiting this after I build my Mini Statements.

This is my first foray into separates, and I'm really enjoying how the whole idea of separates sound.

Looks like another positive review and satisfied CDA customer.  Thanks, Ed.  Nice to know it mates well with the LDR attenuator.

The Affordable Audio review should be out soon, too. 

[roymail]

Since the Eva LDR attenuator is passive, I'm curious to know how you set the gain on your SDS amp (32db max, 26db standard setting).

Is it max'd out or less?  Thanks!

[jacko2x]

Less, but more than half way

Out of curiousity does anyone know what resistance values equate to the 26db standard setting? Tnx

Since the Eva LDR attenuator is passive, I'm curious to know how you set the gain on your SDS amp (32db max, 26db standard setting).

Is it max'd out or less?  Thanks!

[ichillpill]

What type of drill bit would I need if I were to drill holes on a par metal case? Do you guys think a a battery powered drill will be good enough?

[Mariusz]

Yes, battery drill shall do it.

[roymail]

What type of drill bit would I need if I were to drill holes on a par metal case? Do you guys think a a battery powered drill will be good enough?

Sure, a cordless drill will work fine.  Use some masking tape, and measure & mark where you want to drill.  Start with a small drill bit first, then work up to the right size.  Just go slow, and keep a firm hold on the item you're drilling so the bit doesn't grab it. 

[walkern]

Par-Metal offers both steel and aluminum chassis options.  The steel requires a bit more pressure (pun intended) to drill through, even with a petite bit.  Still, if you've got a decent drill that will run at high speed and not run out of steam too quickly, I think you'll have no trouble working through any of their boxes.  As was noted before, tape and measure and mark exactly where you want your holes, start small, and work your way up gradually.  Bits made to pierce metal will work better than bits meant for wood.  I just ordered a new chassis for my Class D (I originally tried it just mounted inside an old gutted Parasound amp chassis, so the fit is lousy), and I'm convinced those amps are worth the time and effort and money to mount in a decent looking chassis. 

Neil