[wushuliu]

My Par-metal enclosure just arrived. Pretty excited to break out the power tools.

[Mariusz]

Hi Wushu

Looks similar to NJ guy enclosure from eBay.... is that the source or....?

(if it is even cheaper then that please PM the source - THX)

Mariusz

Do not forget to snap few pix when finished.
 
 

[wushuliu]

Hi Wushu

Looks similar to NJ guy enclosure from eBay.... is that the source or....?

(if it is even cheaper then that please PM the source - THX)

Mariusz

Do not forget to snap few pix when finished.
 
 

They're all from Par-Metal in NJ. Maybe that guy bought a bunch at discount and so sells them a little cheaper. I didn't see any of the gold models on his page. I think mine came to $10 more incl. shipping.

[Mariusz]

Yes, I know they all come from Par-Metal..... just thought that you found even cheaper source (like a warehouse, B-stock or discontinue models)
Nevertheless, great value if you do not mind a tinny bit of DIY.

Cheers
Mariusz 

[roymail]

Nevertheless, great value if you do not mind a tinny bit of DIY.
Cheers
Mariusz 

DIY, great value indeed. 

What I really like about this kit is that you can assemble it for little $$, then listen to your hearts content before you make any decision about buying an enclosure.

Spend a little or a lot... it's DIY (you decide!)   

Wushuliu, looking forward to all those pics.

[ggetzoff]

A few questions:

Anyone tried the 600W mono? If so, anyone tried to drive a 12" or larger HT sub?

I'm going to pair it with a 800KVA Antek and upgrade the PSU with 27,000uf caps.

Anyone tried it at different rail voltages?

Thanks,

Greg

[matix]

Thanks to all who has helped,  especially jtwrace, I have set up my SDS258.  Very powerful bass indeed!  As mentioned earlier,  I am only capable of changing a light bulb before this project. So, hope that my success is an encouragement to all novices.  While it may take an hour for the DIY enthusiasts here to assemble,  it took me about four days to ask all the questions and buy the correct parts.  But it can be done!  Unfortunately,  I am travelling tomorrow for 10 days and have to abandon it for 10 days! 

[Nick77]

Nice work! Glad you are enjoying it, now get it into case. 

[matix]

One question... the volume control pots (potentiometer)... if i am connecting via RCA,  do you turn it all the way up, or half way, or... 

[Nick77]

Ive found you should only turn them up as much as needed by listening tests. I think mine is set at about one o'clock. I had mine set to high and it was throwing off the balance of my sub output from the preamp and introduced a little brightness in my system.

[roymail]

Nick77 is right.  That pot controls the amplifier gain so the user can adjust it up or down depending on the load presented by the preamp.  Turning it down will allow you more control via your preamp.  Otherwise, you may be at full output by 10-12 o'clock on the preamp volume control.  And, if that's what you like, then that's OK.

It just depends on the output of your preamp and how much control you want to have over the amplifier.  I'd set it where you think it sounds best and works well with your preamp.

[jtsnead]

Also with the amp off you can use an ohm meter to set the pot
levels exactly, just put the leads on the yellow and black pins at
the pot and read the resistance, I have mine around 5 ohms.

Also kudos to jtwrace for his help and pictures, save up and buy
his case it makes a really nice package.

[dandon]

As mentioned in my earlier post, I commented about the sound after added another power module and made it into 4-channel. I discovered one of the RCA  was loose and now the sound is back to what I have heard before.

Hope my previous encounter does not stop the rest from going into 4-channel.

While I'm writing this post, I'm listening to the music in bi-amping set-up. It brings the listening pleasure to another level. 

I have bought 6 Nippon Chemi-con 10,000uF, 100V, caps and scratching my head whether should I replace the stock caps.

[chlorofille]

Hi all,
I've been following this thread for some time and am unsure of 2 things:

1. For the SDS-258 Kit class D kit, can I replace the 2 dual mono pots that were provided with the kit with my own 50K stereo dual gang pot ?

2. If it is possible, can I connect my Samsung H1080 DVD player to the amp directly without the use of a pre-amp? Is this recommended ?

Kind Regards,
Dinny

[roymail]

Hi all,
I've been following this thread for some time and am unsure of 2 things:

1. For the SDS-258 Kit class D kit, can I replace the 2 dual mono pots that were provided with the kit with my own 50K stereo dual gang pot ?

2. If it is possible, can I connect my Samsung H1080 DVD player to the amp directly without the use of a pre-amp? Is this recommended ?

Kind Regards,
Dinny

I assume what you're wanting to do is to use the two gain controls to control volume like a preamp does... since you also asked if you could plug your DVD player straight into the amp.

These two pots are not volume controls.  The gain control is to match the output of the amplifier to the input of the preamp.  Some preamps require more or less gain from the amplifier depending on their voltage.

That's just my understanding of your question.  I apologize if I'm wrong about what you are asking.  My suggestion is to send you questions to Tom at Class D Audio.  He is very good about answering your questions.

Other members are FAR MORE KNOWLEDGEABLE than I am and can provide you with a better explanation than mine.

You can pick up a decent used preamp from Audiogon and give the Class D amp a try.  I don't think you'll be disappointed.  Good luck! 

[chlorofille]

I assume what you're wanting to do is to use the two gain controls to control volume like a preamp does... since you also asked if you could plug your DVD player straight into the amp.

These two pots are not volume controls.  The gain control is to match the output of the amplifier to the input of the preamp.  Some preamps require more or less gain from the amplifier depending on their voltage.

Yup exactly right. So basically if I hook the DVD player directly to the amp and play some source material through speakers, the loudness of the speakers cannot be controlled from the stereo pot unless I use an appropriate pre-amp? (assuming that I have rewired the dual mono pots into a dual gang stereo one)

Kind Regards,
Dinny

[roymail]

The specs on the SDS-258 show an input impedance of 47K, so a 10K or 20K passive attenuator may work pretty well for you.  Then you could adjust the gain using the amps pot as it's designed.

Short of buying an active preamp, using a good passive in the configuration I've described is the best I can think of right now.

If you have diy skills, take a look at the Nelson Pass B1 Buffer thread.  This is one great performer! 
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=78312.0

[chlorofille]

Thanks for the great suggestions Roy =)
Im planning to get the SDS-258 Class-D amp to combo with a Dodd battery tube-buffer. Hopefully they will be a match made in heaven.

Anyone had the opportunity to compare the class D amps with Aussie amplifier NXv200 modules?

Kind Regards,
Dinny

[roymail]

Thanks for the great suggestions Roy =)
Im planning to get the SDS-258 Class-D amp to combo with a Dodd battery tube-buffer. Hopefully they will be a match made in heaven.
Kind Regards,
Dinny

Should be an excellent match... good choice!

[guest1632]

I have bought 6 Nippon Chemi-con 10,000uF, 100V, caps and scratching my head whether should I replace the stock caps.

Hi, I'd probably remove all 6 caps, and put in four of the 10 Kuf, two on each side,  and see how it sounds. Then put in the remaining two and see if you notice any real difference. This would tell us DIYers whether to get 60 Kuf or something like 40 to almost 50 Kuf.

Inquiring minds like mine want to know. For right now, I will have to live out my thrills in what you guys do. Yeah, I know, that's sick, but then if noone did any experimentation, then we probably would still be back in the horse and buggy days.

Ray