[pjchappy]

Well the new amp board is up and running and everything seems okay . I'll be ordering the Par-metal in  a couple days...

If you change your mind re the enclosure, jtwrace's are well worth the money.  You can just build the amp in a simple case or base (wood case or board) until you can swing it.


Paul

[roymail]

If you change your mind re the enclosure, jtwrace's are well worth the money.  You can just build the amp in a simple case or base (wood case or board) until you can swing it.
Paul

Just to get by until later, a simple 12"x12" (or whatever you choose) piece of mdf with a 4"x12" strip of peg board on the back side for your hardward.  It's not attractive but it's functional... until you can do better.  (cheap & cheerful) 

[wushuliu]

Just to get by until later, a simple 12"x12" (or whatever you choose) piece of mdf with a 4"x12" strip of peg board on the back side for your hardward.  It's not attractive but it's functional... until you can do better.  (cheap & cheerful) 

The amp already has a decent diy wood enclosure (pics are in this thread somewhere).

[roymail]

In the May issue of Affordable Audio, Lorin Elias wrote a review of the Virtue Audio ICEBLOCK M5001, a class d mono block amplifier.  In it he made some comments about the use of cheap cables with class d amplifiers.

He said... "They are intolerant of cheap cables.  You need clean power, good power cords, and good interconnects to get the best out of these amplifiers."

Could you guys share your experience with regard to the use of different cables and power cords with this Class D Audio amplifier?  Thanks!

[wushuliu]

In the May issue of Affordable Audio, Lorin Elias wrote a review of the Virtue Audio ICEBLOCK M5001, a class d mono block amplifier.  In it he made some comments about the use of cheap cables with class d amplifiers.

He said... "They are intolerant of cheap cables.  You need clean power, good power cords, and good interconnects to get the best out of these amplifiers."

Could you guys share your experience with regard to the use of different cables and power cords with this Class D Audio amplifier?  Thanks!

Lots of variables but overall I found anything silver plated be it IC or PC came off harsh. I DIY mine fer cheap with upocc copper and ofc center pin RCA.

In fact I made a new pair last night to replace some uber cheap Chinese cables I use as temporary placeholder. The difference was apparent of course. However I think the classdaudio amps are more tolerant in general compared to say tripath or icepower (from what ive read of rheir sound). Transparent but More forgiving.

[cynan]

In the May issue of Affordable Audio, Lorin Elias wrote a review of the Virtue Audio ICEBLOCK M5001, a class d mono block amplifier.  In it he made some comments about the use of cheap cables with class d amplifiers.

He said... "They are intolerant of cheap cables.  You need clean power, good power cords, and good interconnects to get the best out of these amplifiers."

Could you guys share your experience with regard to the use of different cables and power cords with this Class D Audio amplifier?  Thanks!

I don't mean to open a can of worms - but I would take that comment, as they say, with a dose of salt

Sure, I can see how quality cables are important, especially when you are connecting a high quality source to a high quality amp, etc. But how could Class D amps possibly be inherently more susceptible to poor cables than class A or A/B? I suppose you could argue that they are more suspectible to signal degredation as they use the actual audio signal to generate the "clock" which switches the amplifier on and off, whereas a class A stage never switches off completely, but I'm a bit skeptical...

Anyone care to enlighten me?

[etcarroll]

So I picked up a Superphon SP100 pre for my recently acquired used Bryston, problem is, I sent the Bryston back to be given 'the once over'.

But I still have loan of Pumpkinman's classD amp, so with wife out of town for weekend, I set up in front of the fireplace, (something I've always wanted to do but never did due to very low WAF), plus I can start burn in of recently acquired Luminous Audio Lynx II Rca ICs that had been still in blister pack.

First quick impression - not bad, not bad at all.

[dandon]

This is my virgin post.

After reading this great thread, I bought 1 set of CDA-254L kit and housed in a chassis. It sounded warm, details and has powerful bass.




I like the sound and bought another same amp to make it into a 4-channel amp.



However, I'm surprised that it sounds bore and dead. The highs and dynamics are not there. Basically, no soundstage and flat. So I disconnect the DC supply to one of the amp and the music comes back alive.

Could the power supply does not have the enough power to drive 2 amps?

Would it help if I were to change the caps to higher capacitance and audio grade? If yes, any value and caps to recommend? Is the voltage of the caps important?       

 

[guest1632]

This is my virgin post.

After reading this great thread, I bought 1 set of CDA-254L kit and housed in a chassis. It sounded warm, details and has powerful bass.




I like the sound and bought another same amp to make it into a 4-channel amp.



However, I'm surprised that it sounds bore and dead. The highs and dynamics are not there. Basically, no soundstage and flat. So I disconnect the DC supply to one of the amp and the music comes back alive.

Could the power supply does not have the enough power to drive 2 amps?

Would it help if I were to change the caps to higher capacitance and audio grade? If yes, any value and caps to recommend? Is the voltage of the caps important?     

Probably so. You might change to 8200 or so per cap value. That would be a total of about a bit over 4800 UF, for both sides. You might also consult with Tom. I'd tell him your experience and see what he suggests. I'd ask him about upping the value of the "heavy duty" supply to something like 24/25 UF per side. It sure made a difference in Nic7 amp. Although he just brought his up to 40 UF per side.

Ray Bronk

[Nick77]

    However, I'm surprised that it sounds bore and dead. The highs and dynamics are not there. Basically, no soundstage and flat. So I disconnect the DC supply to one of the amp and the music comes back alive.

Could the power supply does not have the enough power to drive 2 amps?

Would it help if I were to change the caps to higher capacitance and audio grade? If yes, any value and caps to recommend? Is the voltage of the caps important?                                                             

I have always been a little skeptial of the PS running two boards, now we know it comes with a price. I upgraded to Panasonic TSHA series caps with good results mostly in bottom end dynamics. I think you might contact Tom also and find out what he reccomends, not sure if cap upgrade will do the trick or if you might need a bigger transformer as well??
Welcome to the club! Nice work!

[jtwrace]

I've run two boards and have no issues whatsoever.   

[standub]

I think the issue is that the CDA-254L kit comes with a 400Va transformer, however if you look at the CDA-2000 kit, it comes with a 600Va transformer.  If you just added in the second board and didn't upgrade the transformer I would start here first.

[HT cOz]

I've run two boards and have no issues whatsoever.   

What was your exact setup running two boards?

[jtwrace]

What was your exact setup running two boards?

My aluminum case, 400VA with Super D and IR boards.  Both using XLR inputs.

[matix]

So much for turning on the amp today and having a listen.  Turn it on, no power  .  Started checking all the connections making sure everything is wired up correctly.  Finally decided to check the IEC fuse section, guess what no fuses  .  Will make a trip to home depot on my way home from work and pickup couple of 6amp slow blow fuse.

The adventure continues.

Just got myself a SDS258 kit.  I powered up and no sound.  I have to comb the whole thread again and upon checking my IEC,  realize that a fuse is needed there.  I have no training in anything electrical whatsoever and the most challenging thing I have done is change a light bulb.     I am assembling this step by step with all the pictures that were captured here. 

Also there are two parts in the package, which I understand to be "potentiometers".  What are these for? There are several strands of cables too. Are these for LED lights?      I don't see these being used in the pictures posted so far..

[Nick77]

Yes those are the gain controls and they have to be hooked up to get any sound. Contact Tom for proper wireing. You dont have to have the leds hooked up, thats optional.

Your in for a real treat with that board! 

[jtwrace]

For the potentiometers included, the black wire goes to the center pin on the pot, and if holding the pot with pins facing up, the yellow wire goes on the left, and the red wire on the right.




Not the best picture but it kinda shows it.

[dandon]

Thanks to those who have gave advices and opinions. Especially to wushuliu who PMed me with his suggestion on modding of the Power Supply and information on the caps.   

I'll change all the caps in the power supply to 10,000uF. Hopefully there would be improvement.

Now I'm also waiting patiently for SDS-258 to arrive. This would be used to drive front L/R speakers.

[matix]

For the potentiometers included, the black wire goes to the center pin on the pot, and if holding the pot with pins facing up, the yellow wire goes on the left, and the red wire on the right.

Indeed I can't see well... please help me... Is the picture below showing the pot with the pins downwards or upwards?  The wires seem kind of tiny.. do you solder the tiny wires onto the pot?  Thanks for the great help. 

[jtwrace]

Indeed I can't see well... please help me... Is the picture below showing the pot with the pins downwards or upwards?  The wires seem kind of tiny.. do you solder the tiny wires onto the pot?  Thanks for the great help. 

Yes, you solder the tiny wires to the tabs. 

As you're looking at your picture the black to the cente and the yellow to the left (bottom) and the red to the right (top).

make sense?