[Dave H]

I am considering getting this same case.  Now that you've received your case, are you glad you bought it?  I ask because they have some more expensive, black anodized cases which look like they might be a little nicer cosmetically.

BTW, thanks to everyone for this thread.  I've been looking for an amp for a while and, after reading this thread, ordered the 120 wpc CDA on Friday.   

Toob,
I used a file to remove the front panel punch-out markings, then proceeded with a scotch brite pad to improve the brushed finish. I think It looks pretty good. An LED would have enhanced the front appearance. I like it, but am not hyper- picky about gear aesthetics.

If you have doubts, perhaps your question is already answered and you should go with the more expensive case.  Highly subjective.

Oh yes, I'm glad I bought it and would buy another. You may hate it....Such is the way of things.
Dave

[JDUBS]

I have the second prototype complete.  It's really nice.  Next, are the finished anodized units.

jtwrace, any news (pics?) on the enclosures?

-Jim

[pumpkinman]

Bill,
I used heavy duty Al foil formed into shape by hand. You can see the wrinkles in the casting. I made multiple sizes and they work very well. Got lucky.

A set of 3 easily supports 200 lbs (me).
Dave

Thanks I may just might try some myself. Chambersburg well you just might find me at your door one day

[Dave H]

Thanks I may just might try some myself. Chambersburg well you just might find me at your door one day

Ah...Poconos. We're in south-central PA, kissing the border, 80 mi WNW of DC. 20 mi West of Gettysburg.

If you try the Dave tiptoes, let me me know.
Suggestions!

Dave

[jtwrace]

jtwrace, any news (pics?) on the enclosures?

-Jim

They're at the anodizer now.  Very soon!!!

[pumpkinman]

Ah...Poconos. We're in south-central PA, kissing the border, 80 mi WNW of DC. 20 mi West of Gettysburg.

If you try the Dave tiptoes, let me me know.
Suggestions!

Dave

I'm going to try for sure when the glue sticks are hard there tuff takes alot of heat to soften them
I am the Pumpkinking..................Bill

[mintzar]

Herbie's stuff is really nice for footers. Though not as cheap as hot glue, they're very cheap and the best footers I have used. I'm using them under my amp.

[pumpkinman]

Herbie's stuff is really nice for footers. Though not as cheap as hot glue, they're very cheap and the best footers I have used. I'm using them under my amp.

I believe this is what Mintzar is refering to http://herbiesaudiolab.net/

[mintzar]

You are correct. Thanks for posting the link!

[wushuliu]

The Super D's are up in the ClassDaudio page.

My one minor quibble w/ Tom are the typos that pop up on the site. I've shot emails as a heads up,
but some still pop up, and right now the main page has the word 'Ballanced' in giant red font...

[srb]

The Super D's are up in the ClassDaudio page.

My one minor quibble w/ Tom are the typos that pop up on the site. I've shot emails as a heads up,
but some still pop up, and right now the main page has the word 'Ballanced' in giant red font...

I see the "Introducing our Super D series..." and photo, but I can't link to a product page, nor is it listed under Amps or Kits.
 
Steve

[Dave H]

I'm going to try for sure when the glue sticks are hard there tuff takes alot of heat to soften them
I am the Pumpkinking..................Bill

The stuff I used is Arrow Super Power hot melt glue. I selected my sticks by manipulating them, sooth-saying, and a little prayer. I basically looked for the slowest restoration rate.

I made the forms, cut the sticks up into ~3/8" pieces, filled the forms up, onto a cookie sheet and stuck 'em in the oven at about 250 - 275 deg F. Been a while but I think they melted rather quickly. CAREFULLY Pull them out like cupcakes and let them cool. The foil separates easily.

The "tip" or bottom of the form must be flat to sit properly upright.

There -- that's the basic primer!
Dave

[wushuliu]

I see the "Introducing our Super D series..." and photo, but I can't link to a product page, nor is it listed under Amps or Kits.
 
Steve

Yeah, I spoke too soon...

[pumpkinman]

The stuff I used is Arrow Super Power hot melt glue. I selected my sticks by manipulating them, sooth-saying, and a little prayer. I basically looked for the slowest restoration rate.

I made the forms, cut the sticks up into ~3/8" pieces, filled the forms up, onto a cookie sheet and stuck 'em in the oven at about 250 - 275 deg F. Been a while but I think they melted rather quickly. CAREFULLY Pull them out like cupcakes and let them cool. The foil separates easily.

The "tip" or bottom of the form must be flat to sit properly upright.

There -- that's the basic primer!
Dave

Thanks  I wondered how you used a glue gun on this makes more sense now.............Bill

[bprice2]

Does anybody know if there is a difference visually between the 250 wpc amp and the 120 wpc amp?  I ask because I just noticed that the additional amp board I ordered came with directions for the 250 wpc amp.  It was supposed to be the 120.  The only difference I can see between the two boards is that there is one cap that is larger on one board than on the other.

[srb]

I really wish I had this product for sale, as I am 99% confident I could double whatever the current sales are and have even happier and more excited customers.
 
Some of the things I would do are:
 
1.  Have a simple model number for each amp.  Referring to the 2 X 250 at 8 ohm , no 4 ohm, no 2 X 125 @, no, wait..........  Gets confusing, and trust me, there is a lot of confusion.
 
2.  If a change is made, for example the 250W X2 @ 8 ohm (I think) is now useable at 4 ohm with an extended heat sink which is now supposed to be standard - the website information would be updated, along with an updated photo.
 
3.  Create a matrix feature and specifications chart.  I was looking at the Synology NAS devices for my computer, and wondered about the differences between some of them.  Check this out!  Sweet!  http://www.synology.com/us/products/compare_spec.php
 
4.  Post to the forum once a day to clear up questions.  I know this takes up some designer/engineer/business owner's time, but a lot less time than answering the same question 10 times in 10 separate private emails.
 
5.  Offer some "SE" upgraded boards, both amps and power supplies.  You're dealing with 'audiophiles', why make those interested in better, bigger capacitors, etc. unsolder, toss away, source and buy new parts, then resolder?  This would create some additional and larger sales and some happy campers.
 
Just a few thoughts.
 
Steve

[wushuliu]

I agree. But it's clearly a one-man operation for the most part, and there's only so much time in the day.

Howerver, simple model numbers is a GREAT suggestion. That's easy enough to do. There really is way too much unnecessary confusion over what's available.

[pumpkinman]

I really wish I had this product for sale, as I am 99% confident I could amass double whatever the current sales are and have even happier and more excited customers.
 
Some of the things I would do are:
 
1.  Have a simple model number for each amp.  Referring to the 2 X 250 at 8 ohm , no 4 ohm, no 2 X 125 @, no, wait..........  Gets confusing, and trust me, there is a lot of confusion.
 
2.  If a change is made, for example the 250W X2 @ 8 ohm (I think) is now useable at 4 ohm with an extended heat sink which is now supposed to be standard - the website information would be updated, along with an updated photo.
 
3.  Create a matrix feature and specifications chart.  I was looking at the Synology NAS devices for my computer, and wondered about the differences between some of them.  Check this out!  Sweet!  http://www.synology.com/us/products/compare_spec.php
 
4.  Post to the forum once a day to clear up questions.  I know this takes up some designer/engineer/business owner's time, but a lot less time than answering the same question 10 times in 10 separate private emails.
 
5.  Offer some "SE" upgraded boards, both amps and power supplies.  You're dealing with 'audiophiles', why make those interested in better, bigger capacitors, etc. unsolder, toss away, source and buy new parts, then resolder?  This would create some additional and larger sales and some happy campers.
 
Just a few thoughts.
 
Steve

Here Here Thank You for saying what was thinking and beyond what I was thinking...Bill

[srb]

I know there is only so much time in a day.  But the number of additional man hours required to put my suggestions in play are minimal.  I can't tell you the number of qualified electrical engineering and computer students that would be chomping at the bit for some $12 - $15/hr. work to write documentation, matrix charts, update webpages, etc.
 
It takes some money to maintain and grow a business, and for what I am proposing, not a whole lot.
 
Steve

[steve k]

I really wish I had this product for sale, as I am 99% confident I could amass double whatever the current sales are and have even happier and more excited customers.
 
Some of the things I would do are:
 
1.  Have a simple model number for each amp.  Referring to the 2 X 250 at 8 ohm , no 4 ohm, no 2 X 125 @, no, wait..........  Gets confusing, and trust me, there is a lot of confusion.
 
2.  If a change is made, for example the 250W X2 @ 8 ohm (I think) is now useable at 4 ohm with an extended heat sink which is now supposed to be standard - the website information would be updated, along with an updated photo.
 
3.  Create a matrix feature and specifications chart.  I was looking at the Synology NAS devices for my computer, and wondered about the differences between some of them.  Check this out!  Sweet!  http://www.synology.com/us/products/compare_spec.php
 
4.  Post to the forum once a day to clear up questions.  I know this takes up some designer/engineer/business owner's time, but a lot less time than answering the same question 10 times in 10 separate private emails.
 
5.  Offer some "SE" upgraded boards, both amps and power supplies.  You're dealing with 'audiophiles', why make those interested in better, bigger capacitors, etc. unsolder, toss away, source and buy new parts, then resolder?  This would create some additional and larger sales and some happy campers.
 
Just a few thoughts.
 
Steve

I agree with all these comments. From what I've gathered from Tom lately, he's developed the Super D series to address many of the issues many of us have had regarding gain matching with adjustable gain pots, impedance matching, better heat dissipation to drive lower impedance loads, balanced inputs and board plug-ins for remote power switches and LED's to eliminate soldering on such a small board.

He's told me he is working on getting the website up to date and provding a newletter to describe all the changes he has made in his line. Again from what he's told me, Wushuliu's comments hold true. He's been overloaded with business since this amp news has hit Audiorcicle and part of that was my fault. I didn't realize this thing would skyrocket like it has.

I've suggest to TOm that he make an announcement of his new product line in Industry News where he can hopefully answer questions as well.

I think he just has too much on his plate right now.

But onto the main reason why I'm posting. I've had the opportunity to hear a demo Super D amp board  (120/60) on the mids/highs in my system yesterday and all I can say is it's better than the previous versions. It has all the tonal characteristics of the Class D board but with more bloom and a deeper soundstage. I'm hearing more venue "spatial cues" now and the presentation is indeed more three dimensional (and more tube-like in that respect). I got about 5 hours listening in late last night of classical, jazz, female vocals, chamber and symphonic and alt rock music and these characteristics kept coming forward.

So in summation, I think in Tom's defense, he is working toward a really high quality product at a ridiculuously low price so I think we have to cut him some slack here. He's obviously suffering from the growing pains that are the result of his fine work.

More later,

steve k