[etcarroll]

Oh God Bill!!!!!!   

Don't start talking sense, I'm not prepared for it.

It was recommended to me that I turn on my amp and not turn it off for a week which I just turned it on(burn in time) I just recently added copper ICs I'll remove them and put back the MAC Ultra Silvers I was using before as I'm more familiar with the sound, before I give you guys a head to head comparison. First play the thing that stood out was that imaging was far wider than with the Mcintosh.......................Bill

I wanted to add that I would hardly call myself an audiophile. Being involved with the higher end of this hobby for about 1 1/2 years. Thanks to the NY Rave and it's members(all great guys)I've learned alot, but most of all we all interpet things differently. Some like detail others prefer warmth or all of the above and at the end of the day what we really want is to sit back and enjoy

[Nick77]

Oh God Bill!!!!!!   

Don't start talking sense, I'm not prepared for it.

Yaaa give us the Pumpkin version! 

[SET Man]

Hello all,
New to class D. Anything obviously wrong here?
How should it sound at 50+ hours? Those are the IR2092 based boards. Thanks...
Dave

Hey!

   Neat! Very nice layout in there.

   That is very interesting and nice chassis you've got there. Any picture with full view of the chassis both open and closed? And info on the chassis? Thanks.

Take care,
Buddy

[HT cOz]

Hey!

   Neat! Very nice layout in there.

   That is very interesting and nice chassis you've got there. Any picture with full view of the chassis both open and closed? And info on the chassis? Thanks.

Take care,
Buddy

Yeah your amp looks Kick Butt!!!

[Dave H]

I have no internal pic of the case without the electronics. The case is mostly 1/16" Al, fetched on Ebay and made by Par-Metal.com. 12"x12"4", 50 bucks.

The case needed some attention by file and scotch-brite pad, but otherwise is of acceptable quality. The metal work was done with a Sheet-metal bit and nibbler tool.

I chose this layout to minimize input lead length (~1") and to maximize the critical circuit to XFMR distance.  The setup here is temp just to get it up for ventilation.

The cone is cast from hot glue and will serve as feet. I just threw in the damped tubes pic because I think it's kind of neat and it works like crazy.

Finally, my amp's still breaking in after 100+ hrs. A fine product -- potentially on par with my Hillig based monoblocks and my Clayton S100.










Thanks for the kind words,
Dave
Chambersburg, PA

[wushuliu]

Finally, my amp's still breaking in after 100+ hrs. A fine product -- potentially on par with my Hillig based monoblocks and my Clayton S100.

S100 - $7000

Class D audio - mmmm, NOT $7000


dang.

[pumpkinman]

The cone is cast from hot glue and will serve as feet.

Thanks for the kind words,
Dave
Chambersburg, PA

What did you use as a mold for your feet Great Idea!!....................Bill

[mjosef]

Just make sure it don't get too warm where that hot-glue feet resides...

[Steidl Guitars]

Just make sure it don't get too warm where that hot-glue feet resides...

I had the same thought; I think when you live in Tucson, like me, heat often comes to mind! 

[simoon]

The cone is cast from hot glue and will serve as feet. I just threw in the damped tubes pic because I think it's kind of neat and it works like crazy.

Wouldn't casting them from silicone have been a better idea?

Seems they'd hold up better, at least.

[pumpkinman]

My soldering iron is really to much how many watts is recommended for this type of work
Thanks .................Bill

[mjosef]

You mean to solder the connections? A 40W. iron should be enough for most soldering.

[dewardh]

My soldering iron is really to much . . .

I use an inexpensive solder station

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

for almost everything, with the hot tweezer attachment for smd.  It seems adequate.  It's been a long time since I last fired up the old Weller "soldering gun".  I also have a 30+ year old pencil station (and some 60/40) for repairing older stuff where non-eutectic solder was used . . .

[Dave H]

Just make sure it don't get too warm where that hot-glue feet resides...

LOL...Yes, I had the same thoughts, but it turns out the case bottom is basically stone cold.

That Par-Metal case is bottom, side and top slotted. It seems to do a job of encouraging plenty of convection.

Thanks for your concerns guys!
Dave

[Dave H]

Wouldn't casting them from silicone have been a better idea?

Seems they'd hold up better, at least.

Simoon,
The castings are quite tough. Have you ever handled a hot glue stick?

I chose a certain type (forget) of hot glue stick because of its apparent lossiness. But who knows, Silicone may be better in terms of isolation. Interesting idea.
Dave

[Dave H]

What did you use as a mold for your feet Great Idea!!....................Bill

Bill,
I used heavy duty Al foil formed into shape by hand. You can see the wrinkles in the casting. I made multiple sizes and they work very well. Got lucky.

A set of 3 easily supports 200 lbs (me).
Dave

[Dave H]

S100 - $7000

Class D audio - mmmm, NOT $7000


dang.

Indeed!! I was skeptical. I actually built this for a non-tech 'phile friend and expectations were low.

BUT! -- Gotta have one now. I'll do monoblocks, I guess with these modules; though I hear the 120w units are a little smoother. Hard to imagine.

This morning  I was listening to bagpipes. I've never heard them so finely rendered.

I should note that Clayton S100 is a superb amp. The best SS I've heard, til now. But the $$ diff, Egad!

Dave

[jtwrace]

I should note that Clayton S100 is a superb amp. The best SS I've heard, til now. But the $$ diff, Egad!

Dave

Yes, I use the M-300's.

[Dave H]

Yes, I use the M-300's.

I've added to my gallery, such as it is.

Previous system with Clayton M200s, Intuitive design Pingoras, John Hillig's wonderful Chameleon pre-amp and DAC, and Music Server comp. (I almost went with the M300 JTW. The M200s were magic, and that's with the Isomax transformer.)

I'm still using everything but the M200s. Current nightmarish system pic forthcoming.
Dave

[toobwacky]

The case is mostly 1/16" Al, fetched on Ebay and made by Par-Metal.com. 12"x12"4", 50 bucks.

I am considering getting this same case.  Now that you've received your case, are you glad you bought it?  I ask because they have some more expensive, black anodized cases which look like they might be a little nicer cosmetically.

BTW, thanks to everyone for this thread.  I've been looking for an amp for a while and, after reading this thread, ordered the 120 wpc CDA on Friday.