$175 Class D amp--120 wpc

shadowlight · « **Reply #180 on:** 30 Jan 2010, 07:32 pm »

The 250x2 watt kit order,which will be 125wx2 for the LS6.

Nick77 · « **Reply #181 on:** 30 Jan 2010, 08:15 pm »

Quote

XLR Panel Mount Jack / Speaker Jacks. These parts I got at Radio Shack. I wanted to make sure that I liked it before spending more money on "high end" stuff

Thats what i did also, i just picked up some dayton audio binding posts and home depot thhn wireing. Now i am wondering how much difference vampire posts and better wireing would make. Now that i know its a keeper i am still decideing if upgrades are a worthy investment.

jtwrace · « **Reply #182 on:** 30 Jan 2010, 08:46 pm »

Quote from: Nick77 on 30 Jan 2010, 08:15 pm

Thats what i did also, i just picked up some dayton audio binding posts and home depot thhn wireing. Now i am wondering how much difference vampire posts and better wireing would make. Now that i know its a keeper i am still decideing if upgrades are a worthy investment.

What change? Probably none!

Nick77 · « **Reply #183 on:** 30 Jan 2010, 09:00 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 30 Jan 2010, 08:46 pm

What change? Probably none!

Precisely what i was thinking. Think i am gonna kick back and enjoy the music.

mr_bill · « **Reply #184 on:** 30 Jan 2010, 09:16 pm »

jtwrace,
Are you using the TI based amp?

jtwrace · « **Reply #185 on:** 30 Jan 2010, 09:16 pm »

Quote from: mr_bill on 30 Jan 2010, 09:16 pm

jtwrace,
Are you using the TI based amp?

Yes Sir!

Niteshade · « **Reply #186 on:** 30 Jan 2010, 09:24 pm »

I got three Class D amps: Two tripath and one 500W kit from Class D Audio.

I haven't had time to do the most recent one form Class D, but must say it's impressive looking. The last one I set up was 100 watts into 4 ohms and came from Hong Kong. It's using all solid capacitors! It cost a mere $39.00 with FREE SHIPPING! It's Tripath. The first one I tried is that little guy from Parts Express.

Can't wait to set up the big one!

Steidl Guitars · « **Reply #187 on:** 30 Jan 2010, 09:59 pm »

Quote from: 6SN7 on 30 Jan 2010, 06:58 pm

I wanted to keep my enclosures as small as possible while still being able to have easy access to all the components, so this is what I came up with. The box in front, which is without one side, shows the shelf that both boards are attached to--back to back. A larger top lid will cover the transformer and the output board, and a smaller bottom "lid" will cover the power supply board. A front plate will accommodate two switches, marked "on" and "off" and "mute" and "play". Three colors of LEDs will indicated what's going on.
Bob

Very nice. Even though I've not received my kit, I was thinking about making a set of monoblocks and stacking the boards.

Thanks to all of you for offering up your pics!

jtwrace · « **Reply #188 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 05:49 pm »

I'm drawing a case design up and am looking for feedback. Do you guys think it's necessary to have the status lights on the front panel? Also, what do you think of the power switch on the bottom front (underside) of the front panel? Personally, I like that with an illuminated power switch and that's it! Simple.

Thoughts?

steve k · « **Reply #189 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 06:14 pm »

I like the status lights in front just to know if it's on or in standby and if a channel is off for some reason. The power LED's go out if the amp goes into overcurrent or undercurrent protection although mine has never done that. OTOH, If you mount the tranny behind the faceplate, getting the LED wires past it can become a space issue. I have my power switch on the bottom centered right behind the face plate. I think it's cool to have a hidden power switch. It's totally up to you. Mark (the white case) just put one LED on the front to tell if it's on. A lighted power switch would work just as well.
steve

6SN7 · « **Reply #190 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 06:27 pm »

And just for the fun of it, I'm going to have the two switches and a total of six LEDs on my face plate (four will be lit up at one time), including two that will come off the power supply board (I'll remove the bright blue LEDs there). There will be a bundle of wires inside, but I don't think that will effect the sound any. Power amps tend to be a bit boring to look at (just a block of metal), so I'm going to dress mine up. To each his own.
Bob

jtwrace · « **Reply #191 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 06:32 pm »

Quote from: steve k on 1 Feb 2010, 06:14 pm

I like the status lights in front just to know if it's on or in standby and if a channel is off for some reason. The power LED's go out if the amp goes into overcurrent or undercurrent protection although mine has never done that. OTOH, If you mount the tranny behind the faceplate, getting the LED wires past it can become a space issue. I have my power switch on the bottom centered right behind the face plate. I think it's cool to have a hidden power switch. It's totally up to you. Mark (the white case) just put one LED on the front to tell if it's on. A lighted power switch would work just as well.
steve

Steve

Thanks for the input. I think I'll go for the illuminated power switch on the front bottom.

macrojack · « **Reply #192 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 08:10 pm »

Is it necessary to shut these amps off?
I don't know if I will be building any of these since I don't really need anything. Too many amps now. Two are for sale. Nonetheless, I can't help thinking about the subject. Would it make sense to build one of these vertically, so that each of the three components was situated on a separate tier with the toroid's weight on the bottom for stability? It seems that would be very compact and would allow for all connections to be near the outside walls of the case, which could actually remain open on two sides for ventilation. Is wood the ideal case material? If not, why not?
Would the whole thing fit in a 6 inch square of about 8 inches height? Wouldn't this config allow for shorter leads internally?

steve k · « **Reply #193 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 08:35 pm »

Quote

Is it necessary to shut these amps off? NO. THEY'RE WIRED SO THAT THE AMP BOARD STAYS HOT IN STANDBY MODE AND ONLY THE MOSFETS ARE TURNED ON WHEN THE AMP IS SWITCHED ON. THIS EXTENDS THE LIFE OF THE MOSFETS.
I don't know if I will be building any of these since I don't really need anything. Too many amps now. Two are for sale. Nonetheless, I can't help thinking about the subject. Would it make sense to build one of these vertically, so that each of the three components was situated on a separate tier with the toroid's weight on the bottom for stability? It seems that would be very compact and would allow for all connections to be near the outside walls of the case, which could actually remain open on two sides for ventilation. NO REASON WHY THIS WOULND'T WORK. THE LARGEST TOROID IS ABOUT 5 1/2" IN DIAMETER. THE MAIN THING IS TO ALLOW YOURSELF EASY ACCESS TO THE BOARDS AS THEY ARE SMALL (APPROX. 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"). REMOVABLE SIDES WOULD BE GOOD. Is wood the ideal case material? If not, why not? WOOD IS JUST EASIER TO WORK WITH TO MAKE A CUSTOM SIZE AS YOU PROPOSE. METAL CASES ARE LIMITED TO STANDARD AVAILABILITY. I HAVEN'T NOTICED ANY PROBLEM WITH RF OR EMI IN A WOOD CASE WITHOUT SHIELDING.
Would the whole thing fit in a 6 inch square of about 8 inches height? Wouldn't this config allow for shorter leads internally?POSSIBLY. MY CASE IS PRETTY TIGHT TO WORK IN AND ITS ABOUT 6 1/4"W. x 8" H X 11 1/4" D.

Steve

shadowlight · « **Reply #194 on:** 2 Feb 2010, 01:20 pm »

Avionic,

The case that you have listed did it come with precut holes for the IEC cable and rca/speaker connectors or did you have to cut them? If you cut them what are the tools needed? Another question is related to the cable link. Any particular type I should get?

Sorry for asking basic questions. It is my first DIY build.

Thanks

Quote from: avionic on 25 Jan 2010, 12:03 am

I have had the 125x2 8ohm version of the class d audio amp up and running for a few months now and I am really pleased with it. It sounds great and was very easy to get up and running. As mentioned earlier Tom from class d audio is extremely helpful and will answer all your questions quickly. IMO this is an extremely nice amp for the$$. I have added a few links to the chassis,power inlet and wiring that I used.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250501444095&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200424519369
http://stores.ebay.com/Johns-Silver-Teflon-Wire-Shop
http://classdaudio.com/index.php/class-d-amplifier-kits/home-kits/250w-x-2-500w-x-1-amp-power-supply-transformer.html

jtwrace · « **Reply #195 on:** 2 Feb 2010, 01:24 pm »

I'm drawing a case up now...those of you that can wait, I would as this case will have all the cut outs and be ready to go. I'll get the case design done then quoted and see if it's something that you'll be interested in.

shadowlight · « **Reply #196 on:** 2 Feb 2010, 01:29 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 2 Feb 2010, 01:24 pm

I'm drawing a case up now...those of you that can wait, I would as this case will have all the cut outs and be ready to go. I'll get the case design done then quoted and see if it's something that you'll be interested in.

I would be interested. Can I make a suggestion, just to make the case future proof can you think about putting in another punchout for second set of speakers connectors in case folks want to use the case for dual mono.

Thanks

EDIT: Ignore that suggesetion. I just looked at the case and it does not have enooght space for secondd set of power supply and amp board.

jtwrace · « **Reply #197 on:** 2 Feb 2010, 01:35 pm »

Quote from: shadowlight on 2 Feb 2010, 01:29 pm

I would be interested. Can I make a suggestion, just to make the case future proof can you think about putting in another punchout for second set of speakers connectors in case folks want to use the case for dual mono.

Thanks

The case will have inputs for XLR & RCA. The mono version will be just that. The problem is that I'm trying to have one design otherwise there are unused holes which doesn't look good IMO even with blank plates. This way the stereo version will be just right. The mono will be identical but leaving half of the inputs / speaker output off. It's simple and cost less.

steve k · « **Reply #198 on:** 3 Feb 2010, 01:21 pm »

So now that you've heard the Class D for awhile, how would you compare the sound to your Class A Monoblocks? Inquiring minds want to know.

steve

jtwrace · « **Reply #199 on:** 3 Feb 2010, 01:27 pm »

Quote from: steve k on 3 Feb 2010, 01:21 pm

So now that you've heard the Class D for awhile, how would you compare the sound to your Class A Monoblocks? Inquiring minds want to know.
steve

I still need a little more time to go back to the Class A but considering the cost (less then 20%)

of my Class A amps, it's really good. I'm going through the effort to make a case if that's an indication.

I will report more once I get my amp back together.

I had to take it apart to measure everything for the CAD drawing...