AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: mlundy57 on 12 Jul 2019, 06:08 am
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I'm working on a pair of X-SLS Encores. This is the floor standing version of the X-LS Encore. They're getting upgraded crossovers with Sonicaps, Mills resistors, and Miflex KPCU by-pass caps.
Here's some pics of the build so far:
Parts cut and location of dados marked out. Normally I don't go to the effort of cutting dados for just one pair of speakers but they make it a lot easier to glue the cabinet up square.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196490)
Rabbets and dados cut
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196491)
Cutting out and rounding over the internal braces
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196492)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196493)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196494)
Gluing up the braces, sides, and rear baffle
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196495)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196496)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196497)
Installing the No-Rez. The last two pics are of the No-Rez that will be attached to the front baffle. It's a lot easier to put it in before gluing the baffle on.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196498)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196499)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196500)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196501)
Gluing up the front baffle
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196502)
Flush trimming the baffles
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196503)
3/4" roundovers on the front and rear baffles and 3/8" roundovers on the top and bottom
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196504)
Laying out for threaded inserts on the bottoms
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196505)
Driver openings cut and a roundunder bit to put the roundovers on the back side of the woofer holes
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196506)
After that it has been sanding. To start with I used a random orbital sander and profile blocks to hand sand the roundovers. Normally I am working with wood or wood veneer. That does not require a super flat surface so at this point the prep sanding would be done. However, these are going to be painted a satin black so I need a much flatter surface. I borrowed Jeff's ideas from his X-MTM Encore build and ordered in some long Dura-Block sanding blocks (16", 24", and 30"), sandpaper rolls, and powder guide coat to get the cabinets as flat as I can before spraying the primer. I'll be using Target coatings water borne EMTECH primer/surfacer/filler, black pigmented lacquer, and a satin lacquer topcoat.
The Dura-Blocks, sandpaper, and powder guide coat arrived today. Now the tedious part begins... sanding, sanding, sanding, some more sanding, and oh yeah, sanding......
Mike
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For those of us not as familiar with the GR line, which one is this ? I don’t see this on the site.
What does it look like complete?
Thank you.
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For those of us not as familiar with the GR line, which on is this ? I don’t see this on the site.
What does it look like complete?
Thank you.
Scroll down the page and you'll see plans for the floor standing version. http://gr-research.com/x-lsencorekit.aspx
The X-SLS version includes floor spikes and additional wiring.
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Wow!
I never would have imagined so much hardware would be needed for a build. :thumb:
thread bookmarked!
salivating started . . .
ogling intensifies :lol:
:popcorn:
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That's awesome Mike!
I would certainly like to hear your opinion on the Dura Blocks and the guide coat after you've had a chance to use them. Just to clarify from my build, I only used the guide coat on the BIN shellac primer I used to seal them and not on the raw MDF. I'm also curious how those super long blocks work out for you. The set I got topped out at 16" which is what I used.
Can't wait to see your final results.
sumoking - here is an X-SLS I built a while back:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196525)
Jeff
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That's awesome Mike!
I would certainly like to hear your opinion on the Dura Blocks and the guide coat after you've had a chance to use them. Just to clarify from my build, I only used the guide coat on the BIN shellac primer I used to seal them and not on the raw MDF. I'm also curious how those super long blocks work out for you. The set I got topped out at 16" which is what I used.
Can't wait to see your final results.
sumoking - here is an X-SLS I built a while back:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=196525)
Jeff
How’d you get that finish?!? Looks amazing!
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Hi Mike, We haven't gotten any updates on this build in a while. Any progress on your X-SLS Encores ?
Jmitchell3 - Thanks. The short answer is persistence. I documented my painting process in this build thread:
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=151895.msg1624159#msg1624159
Jeff
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I got them up to the point of spraying the primer/sealer at the end of July. I was stuck at that point for almost the entire month of August. I don't have a climate controlled spray booth or area. Instead, I have to set up an EZ-Up canopy with sidewalls in my driveway. This means I can't spray when it's raining. Normally this would not be a problem. In the past I'd set up the canopy in early June and not have to take it down until mid September because we always had droughts in the summer, floods in April/May, storms in September but nothing in between. This summer has been different, especially August. It has rained every week this month. Not everyday mind you, just the weekends. It's like the weather knew I have to travel for my day job during the week so it rained on the weekends. When did weather learn how to read a calendar :dunno: ?
The pattern held this week too but I only had to travel one day, today. I was able to get the spray booth set up on Monday and start spraying on Tuesday. I had some problems at first with the primer, it's a new product I was unfamiliar with, and with a new spray gun. I ended up having to sand off what I applied on Tuesday and start over on Wednesday. I got three coats of primer on but am probably going to need at least three or four more before I'm ready to spray the black pigmented lacquer. More storms came through last night and today so I had to take the spray booth down to keep it from being turned into a pretzel. The rain is supposed to be gone for a few days so I'll set the booth up again in the morning and get back to it.
To add insult to injury (or just envy) my next door neighbor started pouring the foundation for a large workshop in his backyard....
Mike
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Got the spraying done on these. I ended up using almost a gallon of black pigmented lacquer.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=199586)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=199587)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=199588)
Unfortunately, even though I let the lacquer cure a week when five days was supposed to be enough, when I was buffing the finish out I went through the color in some areas. The weather has turned to wet and cold for me to spray another coat outside under the tents so I had to come up with a different plan. I tried brushing more lacquer on the areas that needed touching up but that didn't turn out well so I got an airbrush and compressor. The airbrush puts out so little product I was able to do the touch up spraying in my living room.
Once this cures I'm not going to use any sandpaper (I was using a 2000 grit soft pad). I'll just use some finishing compound and stay completely of the rounded over edges.
Mike
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Mike, that satin black looks great! Sorry to hear about the rub through troubles when flattening the finish. That it so easy to do, and amazingly frustrating. Nice job figuring out the airbrush touch-up trick. Unfortunately, the outdoor spraying season is done here too.
Were you happy with the surface flatness you achieved on the cabinets using the long sanding blocks and guide coat?
Jeff
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Wow those look amazing! :thumb:
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Mike, that satin black looks great! Sorry to hear about the rub through troubles when flattening the finish. That it so easy to do, and amazingly frustrating. Nice job figuring out the airbrush touch-up trick. Unfortunately, the outdoor spraying season is done here too.
Were you happy with the surface flatness you achieved on the cabinets using the long sanding blocks and guide coat?
Jeff
Jeff,
I found the 36" one hard to keep even pressure. The 18" and 24" were easier to control. Those worked well on the MDF but not so good on the primer/filler. I ended up going back to a 5" sanding block for working with the primer and lacquer.
Mike
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FWIW Mike, I've found that several clear coats over one or two of color makes the cut and polish process easier. That way you're cutting clear and not color. Less messy too, especially with black, where it seems sanding dust gets everywhere you don't want it to. Same principle as two-stage car painting or even stain & lacquer on wood.
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FWIW Mike, I've found that several clear coats over one or two of color makes the cut and polish process easier. That way you're cutting clear and not color. Less messy too, especially with black, where it seems sanding dust gets everywhere you don't want it to. Same principle as two-stage car painting or even stain & lacquer on wood.
Peter,
Wouldyou use color coats and clear when the lacquer itself is dyed black?
Mike
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Peter,
Wouldyou use color coats and clear when the lacquer itself is dyed black?
Mike
Yes, almost always clear over color. It also has the benefit of adding depth to the whole appearance, plus opens doors to other things like multi-color under clear. The "hot rods" in my X-LS thread are a good example. I cleared multiple coats over black-ish primer in that case. Also sheen can be adjusted, regardless of base color. The hot-rods are done in "dull" which IIRC is 15% sheen. Typical "satin" numbers are around 25-35%.
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We do the same thing here Mike, always numerous clear coats over color base when using lacquer. . Nice thin coats of lacquer seem to work best, allowing for quick dry times and super light sandings between coats.
Old car painting methodology :)
jay
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I built the crossovers a little differently. Normally I build the crossover for an X-LS Encore on one board. However, with the floorstanding X-SLS Encore cabinet (same crossover) I ran into an issue. With the spacing of the internal braces, there wasn't enough room for both circuits on one board unless I mounted the crossover on the bottom of the cabinet. I'm not particularly fond of doing this so I put the woofer and tweeter circuits on separate boards that fit between the braces. This way I can mount the crossovers just below the woofer with one circuit on each side. This will also make them easier to get to in the future if needed.
I'm not the best with Lightroom. The smeared/blury areas in the pictures are where I obscured the values of the parts. In these pics I have not hooked up the wiring yet.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=199796)
Mike
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Yes, almost always clear over color. It also has the benefit of adding depth to the whole appearance, plus opens doors to other things like multi-color under clear. The "hot rods" in my X-LS thread are a good example. I cleared multiple coats over black-ish primer in that case. Also sheen can be adjusted, regardless of base color. The hot-rods are done in "dull" which IIRC is 15% sheen. Typical "satin" numbers are around 25-35%.
We do the same thing here Mike, always numerous clear coats over color base when using lacquer. . Nice thin coats of lacquer seem to work best, allowing for quick dry times and super light sandings between coats.
Old car painting methodology :)
jay
OK, You guys win. I bought a DA polisher to do the buffing because it is less likely to cut through than the gear driven DA sander/polisher I had. It worked up until the final polishing compound when it cut through one of the areas I touched up. I decided to back up and punt. I put the spray tents back up and sprayed another full coat of color. I will spray clear tomorrow. I'm shooting for three coats. I normally don't get more than two coats sprayed in a day. If that happens I'll spray two more on Tuesday for a total of four coats of clear. The instructions say a minimum of three coats of clear. :?
Mike
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The clear has now been applied. I sprayed three coats on Wednesday. The weather report was wrong. It was OK as far as temp went, colder than predicted though and while wasn't supposed to rain, it did. That put the temp colder and the humidity higher than I planned. This resulted in having too much retarder and I ended up with some runs and bumps. I sanded most of the clear back and applied two more coats yesterday. I added a crosslinker to the clear which gives it the properties of a post catylized lacquer. This makes the clear much harder than it normally would be. I was out of satin clear so I used gloss. Here are some pics of how they are now. After the clear cures, I can rub the gloss down to satin.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=200238)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=200239)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=200240)
Mike
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Sounds like it's fighting you the whole way...stay vigilant! Some projects just seem never ending. Are you pleased with result?
What's the finish again? Some catalyzed finishes don't like to be cut and buffed.
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Sounds like it's fighting you the whole way...stay vigilant! Some projects just seem never ending. Are you pleased with result?
What's the finish again? Some catalyzed finishes don't like to be cut and buffed.
Peter,
I used Target Coatings EM6000 waterbased production lacquer https://www.targetcoatings.com/product/emtech-em6000-wb-production-lacquer/ with 2% crosslinker added https://www.targetcoatings.com/product/emtech-cl100-wb-crosslinker/
I'm strongly considering giving up on spraying until I have a better spraying environment. In the meantime, if somebody wants a spray finish, I'll have to outsource it to someone with proper facilities.
Mike
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A spray booth is something I'd love to have, but I doubt my neighbors would feel the same. I've heard of guys setting up temp booths in U-Hauls.
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A spray booth is something I'd love to have, but I doubt my neighbors would feel the same. I've heard of guys setting up temp booths in U-Hauls.
I'd settle for a large enough workshop where I could easily move stuff out of the way to erect a temporary booth inside where I have some control over the environment rather than in my driveway. Until I can figure out where to come up with a spare $25k that's not going to happen anytime soon :dunno:
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I finally got these done last night. They had been breaking in for about 20 hours when Norman came over to listen before they are shipped to their new home. Now 20 hours is just getting started on break-in. They will continue to improve over the next 75 hours of playing. They'll get some more tonight but the rest will have to wait till they get to their new home.
These have almost all the same crossover upgrades I put into the X-LS Encores that were at LSAF this past May. So I was not surprised at the quality of the midrange and treble. However, the bass output did surprise me. I'm impressed. Really good solid bass. Maybe Norm will chime in with his impressions.
Here are some pics I took with my iPhone:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=201143)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=201144)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=201145)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=201146)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=201147)
Mike
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Optimized and clarified to see better the details.
(http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hum/Big-X-SLS-no-rez-inside.jpg) (http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hum/Big-X-SLS-no-rez-inside.jpg)
PS: same in the thread https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/345074-mdf-plywood-speaker-cabinets-post5981659.html
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Up and down with double MDF table. Why not the front table, where the speakers. Or only where the woofer. Well it is only 6.5" woofer but...
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/345074-mdf-plywood-speaker-cabinets-post5976840.html
(http://humblehomemadehifi.com/Twenty-Five/Twenty-Five_08.jpg)
Front table, without nothing rear?
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They look really great, Mike. I'm sure new owner will be thrilled.
Although there's lots of buzz about Danny's open baffle designs, I suspect many would find these outstanding. A testimony that good speaker design is kinda timeless.
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Rearranged my normal Tuesday night to detour by Michael’s to hear the GR Research X-SLS before they head off to their new owner, correction lucky new owner.
The short version is the Danny and Michael team deliver performance well above what the same dollars buys via retail channels.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=201149)
We auditioned on Michael’s downstairs AV system rather than his more high-end system we see at LSAF that resides in his upstairs music room. Signal chain was media center PC running JRiver to Dodd DAC to Marantz HT receiver in 2-channel mode (no subs or surround) to X-SLSs. We listened to classic and progressive rock, jazz, pop, soundtracks, and audiophile demo favorites.
Bass has impressive depth, tightness, and texture. I have a preference for the now rare sealed box bass designs because I value the tight critically damped bass they deliver. As a result vented boxes as used by X-SLS need to be just so to please me. With its generously sized box and what my ears tell me is Danny’s expert vented bass alignment of the M165 driver with its obviously linear characteristics the result is the X-SLS sounds like a much larger system. Looking at the bracing pictures on page one of this thread shows an example of how this design is overbuilt compared to its price peers and that extra enclosure stiffness is heard as clean bass that does not muddy up the midrange. With the quality checked off the bass quantity can be appreciated. A pet peeve of mine with 21st century Hi-Fi is all too often speakers feature thin weak bass and mid-bass. I speculate the designers think it makes than sound more transparent or they lack the experience to get the baffle step correction right. The X-SLS is the antithesis of those misguided designs with a rich strong mid-bass and true lower bass that satisfies.
Imaging and transparency. We jumped around the selections Mike has on that server each from a different artist, album, and across decades of music. Quickly it became apparent that for each cut the soundstage would change responding to what the recording presented. Any stereo does that to some degree, what was striking is how explicit the X-SLS was in this aspect. A visual analogy occurred to me. When watching the latest generation of 4k wide color range HDTVs the differences between video in DVD, Blu-ray, and 4k resolutions is immediately apparent. The panel is so good it is easy to see. Likewise the X-SLS is open and does not obscure what is on the recording instead presenting it as captured. Images were nicely detached from the speaker locations. On some songs from early rock bands a bundle of frantic rocking energy appeared between the speakers. Other songs array performers precisely each in their own specific space. When captured in the recording images effortlessly appear to the left of the left speaker and right of the right speaker. This trait of very explicit imaging also made it easy to hear when on pop multitrack productions the vocalist is overdubbed to double or triple themselves.
Transparency in Hi-Fi I define as the ability to hear deep into the recording both the production details and the highly unique harmonic signatures of voices’ and instruments’ unique sounds. Score another win for X-SLS in this regard. This level of transparency combined with the full bass is something of a having ones cake and eating it too thing. Too often one obscures the other, very expert balancing here.
Vocals just work. In the 1970s and ‘80s when I first seriously got into Hi-Fi ‘presence’ was a trait often mentioned as a very good attribute for a speaker to have. Singers ranging from Adele, to Dean Martin, to John Fogerty were present with us in Michael’s room.
Tweeter up to task? Yes they are. I tend to favor hard domes, ribbon, and horn tweeters for their extended response and ‘fast’ detailed sonic signatures. Thus I was curious how the T26SG soft dome silk tweeters in the X-SLS perform. The soft dome sound is different but easily adequate to the task. One could argue the soft dome sound as heard here is more often representative of actual sounds in that they never sounded unnaturally harsh or zinging. I expect the crossover parts upgrades and tube connectors featured in this pair also helped both treble and transparency. Its nets out to smooth yet detailed and certainly more forgiving of the all too common musically interesting yet marginally recorded material. Conversely when really finely recorded high frequencies are presented they were reproduced with detail and filigrees intact.
In summary I really enjoyed a couple of hours listening to the GR Research X-SLS. They sound refined and impressive. When the landed cost is taken into account the value is outstanding.
A closing comment on Michael Lundy’s craftsmanship. As the photos show the man is skilled, meticulous and does not stop until it is right. I was impressed by the base, edge round overs, and tweeter fit and recess. The semi-gloss black paint looks good and would be perfect for use by video screens. I would go veneer as Michael works magic with wood finishing. This you can see in the photos on the pair of GR N3 that normally reside in the Lundy’s downstairs system.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=201150)
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Oh man! The anticipation is building!! :o
Norman, thanks for taking the time to write that up.
I wish it were this easy to select a new turntable. :duh: ( decisions decisions )
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Considering how smooth they are, how resolving they are and how much bass they have, it seems like they are designed to really blow scandinavian driver based speakers out of the water.
Maybe re-name them from X-SLS to "Scan-Speak Killers". Haha.
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Great writeup Norm. Enjoyed the evening.
They are in the hands of UPS on their way to their new home. Should get there on Tuesday.
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Great writeup Norm. Enjoyed the evening.
They are in the hands of UPS on their way to their new home. Should get there on Tuesday.
You’ve built both the mtm encore and the sls encore? Which do you prefer?
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You’ve built both the mtm encore and the sls encore? Which do you prefer?
The MTM Encore. The additional woofer provides a cleaner, fuller, more weighty midrange and, if I remember correctly, cleaner bass since the woofers don't have to work as hard. However, it is a larger speaker. Here are pics of the MTM Encore next to the same N3s.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=201296)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=201294)
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The MTM Encore. The additional woofer provides a cleaner, fuller, more weighty midrange and, if I remember correctly, cleaner bass since the woofers don't have to work as hard. However, it is a larger speaker. Here are pics of the MTM Encore next to the same N3s.
Probably slightly higher sensitivity also, I would imagine. Cool thanks for the comment!
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So it begins . . .
(https://i.imgur.com/YJXEapH.jpg)
well after work... gonna be a good holiday weekend :thumb:
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I’m glad they made it safely. Have fun :thumb:
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lol that kitchen knife. this thread keeps tempting me
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Ok I've had these a few days now and wanted to comment.
- First impressions: Speakers were very well packed and physically a little bit larger than I expected. These were very well built and if you didn't know any better, you'd think "yeah ok - those were built by some small specialty audio shop that makes X pair of them per week." Completely professional build. Handsome speakers, Hard to believe they were all put together (start to finish) by one person.
- After playing around a bit with speaker placement, I have their position mostly nailed down. I had used the rule of 5ths previously, but I wanted to try something else that brought the speaker position deeper into the room from the front and side walls. Soundstage improved quit a bit, but still needs tweaking. I think the front of the speakers are about 94" into the room now.
- My room has a treble problem and I'm assuming it's due to the windows of various sizes in it. Once you reach a certain point of "treble excitement", it hits a tipping point and there's just too much treble. All 3 sets of speakers I've tried in this room have had the same issue regardless of speaker location. So... Room treatment is on my shortlist - specifically getting these windows covered (from a sound perspective). Once that's done, I'll dial in final position and add the included spikes.
- Out of the box, they were already disappearing about 90% of the way. After moving to a different position in the room (their current position), I'd say they are about 95%+ gone. I'm simply amazed at the amount of sound, QUALITY sound these 4 little drivers are producing. It's a bit dumbfounding really. I'm glad I sprung for the crossover upgrades.
- Two comments made earlier in the thread by Mike and Norm are spot on. [1] You hear what's there in the recording. I can tell the difference between my homemade vinyl rips from my cheap turntable and a professional DVD-A for example. Mine have like a thin gelatin layer over the sound. DVD-A's, SACDs, etc all sound a level above.. Well that's where the original recording was well-done. [2] There's surprising bass from these puppies.
- The sound is rather alluring and enjoyable. I wasn't even an hour in before I started hearing new things in old familiar recordings. The sound is being pumped at 24/96 from a raspberry pi into my modest preamps' DAC. I can control my pi via wifi on the couch. I find myself falling victim to the "one more song" trap. What starts out as 15 mins of listening turns into much longer sessions. It's just so easy to click a few buttons on the kindle and queue up more tracks. Ahhhhhh
I'm still playing around looking for several demo tracks, but I've already found a few:
-'Telephone Line' by ELO - As the vocal starts it has a "telephone" effect applied to it and it gradually fades to a normal stereo vocal. You can just picture in your mind how Jeff has his finger on the slider on the mixing board and is slowing mixing out the effect.
-'With or without' by U2 really shows off the bass output of these speakers.
-Many many more tracks demo the speakers and their upgrades really well. It's fun finding them scrolling thru the list. :)
All in all, a great purchase!
(https://i.imgur.com/XDyDsgF.jpg)
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Ron,
I’m glad you like them.
Highly reflective surfaces can do that. You might also want to try some diffusion around and/or over the windows (provided you can get away with putting something over the windows). A mix of absorption and diffusion may give you the best results. If regular diffusion panels don’t pass WAF, you can use art panels with diffusion under the art.
Mike
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Finally managed to get a little acoustic treatment up in the listening room and a new rack.
These babies continue to impress!
I busted out the fish-eye lens 8)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=204279)
a few more pics here...
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/Zf-ShU-XRDmmpEqkVYAVuQ.xSggvvGiNwy-KFFYa94i2r
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Finally managed to get a little acoustic treatment up in the listening room and a new rack.
These babies continue to impress!
I busted out the fish-eye lens 8)
Very nice! Yeah, treating your room is like upgrading your entire system :thumb:
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Both the SLS and the MTM looks amazing. Do those feature the same parts (Crossover, Woofer, Tweeter) and is the only difference the added woofer?
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Both the SLS and the MTM looks amazing. Do those feature the same parts (Crossover, Woofer, Tweeter) and is the only difference the added woofer?
The crossovers are different
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Ok thanks; but its the same "Class" of speaker regarding soundquality.... ?
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I am Looking for a system that does not need a sub because the listening space of my room is only 10x12 feet :)
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btw. do you have the cabinetplans of the MTMs? Couldnt find them on Dannys page sadly
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Ok thanks; but its the same "Class" of speaker regarding soundquality.... ?
Yes they are both X-Series speakers and use the same drivers. The Encore versions of both use the Peerless tweeter and M165 woofers.
I am Looking for a system that does not need a sub because the listening space of my room is only 10x12 feet :)
The MTM plays deeper and has more midbass to midrange body than the SLS. While both will benefit from a sub, if you aren't going to use one, the MTM is the better choice.
btw. do you have the cabinetplans of the MTMs? Couldnt find them on Dannys page sadly
I do have plans for both of those. Danny has the plans, maybe he'll post links to them. Otherwise I can send them to you.
Mike
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Thanks for the answer; I already found them posted by Danny here: https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=90911.40
Thanks again
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Sorry for the thread Necro, but I'm cross posting some updates from another circle.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=177976.msg1872621#msg1872621
I've upgraded the Sources, PreAmp, Amp and added more room treatment. I continue to be amazed how well these 4 little drivers perform. They play back exactly what you throw at them.
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I have decided to sell these speakers
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=183299.msg1924484#msg1924484