[jmimac351]

Hi,

Yes there are always someone who wants something for free. Anyway, please let us know how the new crossover sounds?

Cheers Rod

I don't know that he necessarily wanted to know the values for his own use, it just struck me as odd that it didn't remotely occur to him why they were obscured... with self proclaimed "decades of experience looking at crossovers".    The first time I saw that in a picture, it immediately occurred to me "Well, that's someone's work."  And you know what?  I respected the fact that others respected that fact.  He also questioned why JB caps were being used which, as everyone knows, is based on smell - obviously. 

Hopefully he brings his decades of experience to the conversation.  Perhaps we can learn something.

[Danny Richie]

I have shared this info on another spot where some Wilson owners may frequent more.  It's gotten a fair amount of interest. One person (non-owner), expressed disappointment that I obscured the values of the crossover components.  "Why did you blackout the values of the capacitors? Not seen that done before on all the crossover pics I have viewed over the decades."

Yeah, well you've probably also never sent a speaker to a guy who measured it and fixed it, for FREE. You want the parts / knowledge?... Pay The Man. 

Thanks again, Danny.

Thank you.

[jmimac351]

Frederick is done with the crossovers and they are leaving California and headed back to Freedom today. 

Any thoughts about bypass caps?  I have JB bypass caps as there weren't any Miflex caps handy. 

Miflex? Dueland?  Something else?  Are the Dueland caps big and expensive because they are full of money? 

250v? 600v?... 220?...221?...

I am a "soft dome tweeter guy"... I am not a "diamond-edged blade gamma ray tweeter guy"...

Talk to me, Goose.  I see you, Hobbs! 

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Both the Miflex and Duelunds copper foil are great bypass caps,

The JB caps mainly improve clarity and soundstage precision without affecting tone.
The Gen 3 Sonicaps were similar, but offered a slightly wider soundstage.
The Duelund JDM Pure copper and Miflex caps are both going to add a little extra richness/warmth to the tweeter circuit, and I find that they tend to give a fair bit of width to the soundstage, but their oil-damped nature means they need 400-500hrs of burn in time.

If the Duelund caps are still on sale, I would jump on those, otherwise i would go with the Miflex KPCU03 (250V) as bypass.

I was near your neck of the woods over the last week, back in Texas now though.

[Tyson]

I'll second what Hobbs said - Duelund, Miflex, or Jupiter.  Copper foils.  Whatever is cheapest because they are all great sounding.

[nlitworld]

I'll never get tired of looking at a Hobbs or Tyson crossover photo shoot.

[jmimac351]

Thanks for the feedback / details, fellas. Much obliged. I'm going to snag some Duelund JDM Pure copper .1uf for Bypass Caps. Looks like the Duette crossovers will be here middle next week.

[jmimac351]

Well, the Eagles have landed - early.  Wires crimped together, bare 16ga wire hooked up to amp direct from crossover... the subs are turned off - I am SO HAPPY.  The BASS... now that the midrange isn't trying to rip my head off... the balance is there and the low end is balanced now... you think "Ok, with the midrange that lush, it's going to be soft in the... BAM!!! Treble Detail too!!!... it's got it all.  Such a sigh of relief.  I set them up 10 degrees off axis with my trusty Merlin VSM tool I've had for 25 years, and my little laser pen light - so easy and repeatable.  Put tool against speaker, put laser pen against tool, aim at the same spot on your couch for both speakers.  No guessing / eyeballing / "are they both aimed the same?" nonsense.  As I recall from Danny's measurements, the 10 degree off axis was even smoother, so I did that first - it's my go to for speakers, in general... Don't even care right now... I'm just listening to "musicality music", if ya know what I mean.

I am absolutely thrilled. These 2 ways do such a nice job top AND bottom... very special.  Imagine that Scan-Speak driver with Neo tweeter... oh geez, I need to stop! 

Oh yeah, it's only been 30 minutes on this junk, and no bypass caps are installed.

I am just so very pleased, in every sense of the expression.  Thank you so much, Danny.

[Tyson]

Danny is truly a master. 

[Early B.]

Very cool!!

[Danny Richie]

Thank you so much, Danny.

You are welcome. Now burn in those new parts and try pulling those speakers forward into the room by another four feet or so and hear what they can do.

[maty]

You need to watch:

Do It Yourself Tube DAC - Lampucera
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Hkb1r3xRv0



He then bypassed the Miflex with Duelunds, as well as switching wiring to silver.

👉JDM-CuSn-010: Duelund JDM 0.01uF 600Vdc Tinned Copper Foil Capacitor

[jmimac351]

You are welcome. Now burn in those new parts and try pulling those speakers forward into the room by another four feet or so and hear what they can do.

OK, let's talk "room".  How would these or anything else be in a room 11' wide X 24' long X 9' ceiling?  We have extra bedrooms to play with and I can make that space happen with a sledgehammer and 30 mins.  I have been pondering doing it for a few years,  but have wondered whether that width is an issue such that it becomes "why bother?".   I would like a room to to be 13' wide, as I have been in a dedicated room of that width... but will a room with those dimensions be "good" at 11' wide?  As I really like 2 way speakers, it's also made me wonder whether that kind of space is even better given the speakers I prefer.  And, I think I have read you mention that boundaries are less of an issue for OB speakers... so 11' width wouldn't "eliminate" that type of speaker either.

[Tyson]

IME, a narrow/long room is better than a short/wide room.  Getting the speakers away from the front wall helps enormously with soundstage. 

[Hafgrim]

OK, let's talk "room".  How would these or anything else be in a room 11' wide X 24' long X 9' ceiling?  We have extra bedrooms to play with and I can make that space happen with a sledgehammer and 30 mins.  I have been pondering doing it for a few years,  but have wondered whether that width is an issue such that it becomes "why bother?".   I would like a room to to be 13' wide, as I have been in a dedicated room of that width... but will a room with those dimensions be "good" at 11' wide?  As I really like 2 way speakers, it's also made me wonder whether that kind of space is even better given the speakers I prefer.  And, I think I have read you mention that boundaries are less of an issue for OB speakers... so 11' width wouldn't "eliminate" that type of speaker either.

11 feet wide is enough for a good listing room for monitors. My room is 12x20x8 I get excellent soundstage with my nx studios 9 feet into the room and 5 feet away from me.

[jmimac351]

11 feet wide is enough for a good listing room for monitors. My room is 12x20x8 I get excellent soundstage with my nx studios 9 feet into the room and 5 feet away from me.

Thank you for that feedback.   Another current thread refers to AV Room Service.  I bet a quick phone call could help me decide whether to go for it... and maybe how it would different with what I have now (huge room / close to front wall). 

It sure would be nice to be able to "test drive" a room...

[jmimac351]

You need to watch:
He then bypassed the Miflex with Duelunds, as well as switching wiring to silver.

👉JDM-CuSn-010: Duelund JDM 0.01uF 600Vdc Tinned Copper Foil Capacitor

Thanks for sharing!  The final(?) plan for how I'm going to mount the crossovers is taking into account being about to easily "fiddle"... 

[jmimac351]

So, originally I planned to put the crossover board on the base of the stand.  Well, the board is just slightly too big for that, and the wires from the board are just a little too short.  Plus, I didn't really like the way it looked.  Then it occurred to me... Where is the Novel crossover going to be?  On a shelf?  In a closet?  "Lost"?  That unit needs to stay right there, in a safe spot.  So, the current plan is to cut some clear acrylic and mount a right angle piece to the backside of the column with double-sided, adhesive velcro, hidden from view and able to support the front of the board.  The back of the board will be supported by another piece of right angle acrylic.  To support that?  Well, we have a ton of fasteners on the back of the Novel crossover to help with that!  If there's one thing I have extras of here it's high mass binding posts and fasteners!  It will keep it all as one unit-ish... 

The wires coming out of the crossover to the Duette will have heat shrink, to tidy them up a bit.  The colors will be Tan and White.

TAN = "T" = TWEETER

WHITE = "W" = WOOFER

The OEM Wilson umbilical has one of the umbilicals in Brown, and I think it looks good... different.  So I think this will work out pretty well.

Everything I'm doing is non-permanent... so if one day these find a new home, the owner can have the flavor they wish.  At this point, it is highly unlikely they will be leaving my possession, even though other speakers will pass thru.

Well, that's the plan for mounting the crossover... so far... today... This picture has the board spaced up with the books covered so I can see if it looks "right". 

[Tyson]

Show off 😅

[jmimac351]

Show off 😅