[robwm]

Hi,

What is the best approach to cutting No-Rez? What will give you the most professional look?

What have you tried that works pretty well?
What have you tried that was an absolute fail?

Thank you!

Rob

[nlitworld]

Olfa box knife works awesome. Cut through the rubber backer first, then with extending out the blade, slice through the foam top. Change blades often and try to keep cuts in long, smooth motions.

[robwm]

Does it take a few passes with the box knife to get through the rubber layer?

[rfluongo]

Table saw for straight cuts and bandsaw for radii worked well for me.

[corndog71]

A really good pair of scissors can work in a pinch.

[nlitworld]

Does it take a few passes with the box knife to get through the rubber layer?

Usually 1 to 2 if you are changing your blades fast enough. I like their 9mm snap off knife with the ultrasharp blades. Keep blade short for good cuts through rubber layer, then extend out for another pass for cutting the foam. Snap the blades early and often to keep easier cuts through the rubber layer.

If you're doing angled 45° cuts and have access to a table or miter saw, that is still best way to keep clean straight lines. Razor blades will squish foam just a bit from the drag when cutting and can give a little wiggle to the cuts.

[g3rain1]

Olfa box knife works awesome. Cut through the rubber backer first, then with extending out the blade, slice through the foam top. Change blades often and try to keep cuts in long, smooth motions.

I cut through the foam front first, this also scores the backer allowing you to bend it back. You can then follow that line a second time to cut all the way through the backing.  I did try cutting the back first but it didn't come out as cleanly.

[nlitworld]

I cut through the foam front first, this also scores the backer allowing you to bend it back. You can then follow that line a second time to cut all the way through the backing.  I did try cutting the back first but it didn't come out as cleanly.

That actually makes sense. Perhaps I just like doing things the hard way  lol.

[robwm]

Is it necessary to sand the surface before attaching the no-rez?

[robwm]

FYI - I sent in an email to GR Research, and I was informed that you should not sand any MDF before applying No-Rez. The surfaces should be free and clear of any dust before application.

[dtschmitz001]

Second vote for table saw, it leaves a nice clean cut. 

[Presb4]

I use my band saw, it worked great.

[NoahH]

Strong vote for table saws. Very professional cuts.

[jmimac351]

I use my band saw, it worked great.

C'mon man.... you're making us look bad.   

[corndog71]

I use my band saw, it worked great.

You missed a couple spots.

[robwm]

Did you put the back on before adding insulation?

[SRP SRP]

Table saw for straight cuts and bandsaw for radii worked well for me.

This approach worked well for me

[daopi]

Strong vote for table saws. Very professional cuts.

Table saw blade moves fast and heats up the material, never tried. Does it leave gunk on the blade? Any gooey mess? I don't want to mess my borrowed table saw.
Thanks!

[Peter J]

Table saw blade moves fast and heats up the material, never tried. Does it leave gunk on the blade? Any gooey mess? I don't want to mess my borrowed table saw.
Thanks!

I can only see heat build-up being a concern if one languishes through the cut. It's never been a concern on the stuff I've cut. It's not gooey like bitumen or asphalt based stuff.

 I will tell you that the the old NoRez damping layer was somewhat abrasive so dulled my steel bandsaw blade fairly rapidly when compared to wood. Carbide tipped tablesaw blade seemed unaffected although, theoretically, it would accelerate wear. I've no experience with latest version but am curious.

I like the bandsaw for all the versatility if offers and just assume it's going to cost me a blade. Only thing I might suggest for tablesaw is make sure your fence is parallel to the blade, but that goes for all materials. Also, dull blades of any type are a nuisance and possibly dangerous.