[melchionda]

I've installed tube connectors on two sets of speakers and even though I have watched Danny's Tube Connector installation video a number of times I don't think I'm doing it right.  Specifically, I can't figure out how I'm are supposed to fill the connector with solder after I've crimped the connector around the wire.  Danny makes it look easy but I'd love a close up of what is happening when crimping and soldering.  Or does someone have pictures of the proper crimp? What has been happening to me is that I crimp the connector and that creates a not so good physical connection and there isn't a gap for me to then fill with solder.

[mlundy57]

It sounds like you have the nipple of the crimping tool on the wrong side of the tube connector. One side of the tube connector has a seam while the other side it’s solid.

The nipple of the crimping tool needs to be on the solid side of the tube connector. If the nipple is over the seam, it will push into the seam causing the seam to open up

[melchionda]

It sounds like you have the nipple of the crimping tool on the wrong side of the tube connector. One side of the tube connector has a seam while the other side it’s solid.

The nipple of the crimping tool needs to be on the solid side of the tube connector. If the nipple is over the seam, it will push into the seam causing the seam to open up

I think I had that relationship correct, that was one of the points that I took note of in the video.  The issue I am having is that the crimping tool flattens the tube connector so its not possible to put any solder inside the tube connector.  I end up with a flattened tube connector with a wire stuck in it and no way to fill it with solder.  I'd be interested in seeing a picture of what this is supposed to look like.

[mlundy57]

Put the crimp at the base of the connector, not at the end of the tube where the wire goes in. This will create a small well around the wire where you can feed the solder in.

[S Clark]

If you crimp at the base instead of at the end, does this run afoul of the intent to get the signal connection as close to the end as possible? If you crimp at the end, does it interfere with inserting the male end?  And what about leaving the end open to let the wire be flush with the end- closer to the connection point?? Or put a hole a quarter inch up to wick solder in to the tip?  None of these may actually have merit, but just brainstorming....

[krjohnson29]

There's a diagram on the GR Research site which shows where the crimp should be on each end:
https://gr-research.com/product/electra-cable-tube-connectors/

[mlundy57]

If you crimp at the base instead of at the end, does this run afoul of the intent to get the signal connection as close to the end as possible? If you crimp at the end, does it interfere with inserting the male end?  And what about leaving the end open to let the wire be flush with the end- closer to the connection point?? Or put a hole a quarter inch up to wick solder in to the tip?  None of these may actually have merit, but just brainstorming....

By base I mean where the copper tube meets the plastic section of the female tube connector and where the raised stop is in the center of the male tube connector

[350Industrial]

There's a diagram on the GR Research site which shows where the crimp should be on each end:
https://gr-research.com/product/electra-cable-tube-connectors/

Look carefully at this diagram posted.  I believe it's the second picture.

The solder only needs to be applied at the very end of the tube connecter, between where the wire enters the connector and where the crimp is made- maybe 1/4" in length....

The rest of the tube connector (main body) only contains your bare wires, no solder.....

[Hobbsmeerkat]

I think I had that relationship correct, that was one of the points that I took note of in the video.  The issue I am having is that the crimping tool flattens the tube connector so its not possible to put any solder inside the tube connector.  I end up with a flattened tube connector with a wire stuck in it and no way to fill it with solder.  I'd be interested in seeing a picture of what this is supposed to look like.

I guess the next question is what kind of crimping too; are you using? A narrow one or a broad one.
I've used both, and the wider ones definitely tend to crush the connector, especially compared to the narrow ones like the one Danny uses in the video.

You also don't want to completely fill the connector with solder, just filling/sealing the opening where the wire is crimped to the connector is all that is needed.

[melchionda]

I guess the next question is what kind of crimping too; are you using? A narrow one or a broad one.

Audio is a life long interest of mine but I'm not an expert on these topics and I'm not sure what would be a narrow crimper vs a broad one.  I have at least two crimpers.  (see the photo).  They have different size apertures for crimping.  The crimping blades across these tools tend to be .12 to .25" wide.





It would be awesome if someone could post the specs on the correct crimper to use as well a photo of what the proper crimp and solder fill on a tube connector should look like.  You can't see those details in Danny's video.

I've already hacked up four tube connector connections and am about to do another four.  I'd LOVE to get it right this next time.  If anyone can help with some pics it would be much appreciated.  .

[Danny Richie]

We use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-WT2000-Crimping-Strippers/dp/B00193IBQM?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2H1BXB4W61JHP

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Here's Danny's original installation post with pictures:

I have been asked to post some instructions on how to install the Electra tube connectors.

If you have not seen the Electra tube connectors then follow this link to the Electra Cable website and read all about them: http://www.electracable.com/tubeconnector.htm

These things beat any binding post ever made.

They install faster and easier than any binding post as well. Just follow these step by step instruction and you'll see just how easy it really is.

First you'll need to drill a 7/16" hole in your enclosure. These also work just as well in any enclosure thickness so no problems even with thick or multilayer walls.

Then feed the wire through the hole until it pokes out far enough for you to get a hold of it. 2 to 3 inches is fine. And slide your heat shrink on before you forget it.

Now a very important part to remember is to take the male stud that comes with the tube connectors and insert it into the end of the tube connector. This gives the internal wire a stopping point when you insert it. And the whole idea behind the tube connector is to get tip to tip contact from the internal wire to the speaker wire.

Now that you have a stopping point you can insert the internal wire from the speaker into the tube connector until it touches the stud inside of it. Then you mark its depth and strip it that far back.



Insert it and note that the insulation comes to the end of the tube connector. Now you are ready to crimp it.



When you go to crimp it make sure that the part of the crimping tool that pokes up goes into the back side of the tube connector because there is a slit in the tube on the front side.



Then crimp it right in the middle of the end of it.



Now note how it looks on the back side.



And the front side.



Then you solder it to seal the opening from any air passage.



Then slide the heat shrink down over it and seal it.



Now you can add just a slight amount of sealer around the outside of the tube connector. I use clear Silicone myself. Then press it into the pre-drilled hole. If you have to lightly tap it in with a small hammer that's okay too. It will smoothly drive in with very light taps.

Now wasn't that fast and easy? 

[jbetanc]

Thank you, first day here already learning good stuff, thank you Hobbsmeerkat