[Eldergod]

Hey all! Tackling the X-LS build. Received most of my order, sans the No-Rez and tube connectors which are on back order because of COVID-19 supply issue. Going to be taking things fairly slowly. I’ll update things as I go and see about throwing some pics up too. Went ahead with the PE 0.56 knockdowns, which was before I realized I could source flat packs from around here, but it’s fine. Front width is the same even though they are a few inches taller and less deep to compensate. Everything else will line up with normal build parameters. Even adding some extra bracing at some point. Stay tuned.

[Eldergod]

Some more progress pics. Had a local shop CNC the holes since I don’t have a router. Might need to be my next purchase though. Had them add a 3/4” round over to the top of the front baffle to match the sides.

[Peter J]

If you haven't test fit your tweeter, you may want to. I typically add about .020 to diameter spec. for clearance and finish allowance.

[Eldergod]

Thanks, I will. I do have a question about the crossover. What is the optional component for on the tweeter section?

[Peter J]

You may have to be more specific. Could it be a bypass capacitor?

[Hobbsmeerkat]

You may have to be more specific. Could it be a bypass capacitor?

That was my best guess as well.

[Eldergod]

Yes, sorry. Should have been more specific. Don’t want to post the actual schematic. It’s a cap option alongside the first main cap in the tweeter circuit diagram provided with the kit. Doesn’t seem to be a part of the actual supplied parts though. Labeled as Miflex Copper Cap option (with a specific value of course). If that’s too much proprietary info to post, I’ll remove it.

[mlundy57]

Yes, sorry. Should have been more specific. Don’t want to post the actual schematic. It’s a cap option alongside the first main cap in the tweeter circuit diagram provided with the kit. Doesn’t seem to be a part of the actual supplied parts though. Labeled as Miflex Copper Cap option (with a specific value of course). If that’s too much proprietary info to post, I’ll remove it.

Yes, that’s a by-pass cap

[Killian Smith]

Yes, sorry. Should have been more specific. Don’t want to post the actual schematic. It’s a cap option alongside the first main cap in the tweeter circuit diagram provided with the kit. Doesn’t seem to be a part of the actual supplied parts though. Labeled as Miflex Copper Cap option (with a specific value of course). If that’s too much proprietary info to post, I’ll remove it.

If you didn't specifically order it in your kit, it wouldn't have been supplied. It is a big, cardboard colored cap with long copper tails on it. Probably came in its own bag as well.

Hope that helps.

[Eldergod]

Working on assembling my crossovers today. Can anyone tell me what joints get heat shrink?

[mlundy57]

Working on assembling my crossovers today. Can anyone tell me what joints get heat shrink?

The ones where the copper wires connect

[Eldergod]

So, clarifying question: aren’t all the component connectors copper, or use just where I need the provided wire to hook up from the crossover to terminals and drivers? Appreciate the help!

[mlundy57]

So, clarifying question: aren’t all the component connectors copper, or use just where I need the provided wire to hook up from the crossover to terminals and drivers? Appreciate the help!

Just where you connect the provided hookup wire

[Eldergod]

Just where you connect the provided hookup wire

Thank you sir!

[Eldergod]

Finishing up crossover build from this weekend. Getting ready to run a negative lead to the woofer and tweeter negative and then on to the woofer in one long line. Will add a second negative lead from the same junction to the tweeter negative.

[Eldergod]

Update: received the No Rez and Tube connectors. Cabinets now have the fronts and No Rez installed. Soooo,....Tube Connectors: can I use a 3/8 bit instead of the 7/16? Will that cause issues and be too small?

[Eldergod]

Also, I realize this is off thread topic, but here is my project from last weekend. The new Copperhead Kit from Parts Express. Right at home in my office at work. Sound really great. I posted a review on the PE website.

[mlundy57]

3/8 is too small. You can go down to a10mm Bit but you will have to pound them in. They’ll go into a 10mm hole with some persuasion.

[GregoryCollins]

I just ordered my X-LS kit from Danny and the flatpack from Peter. I have ordered the glue that Peter recommended in one of his videos because it has a longer setup time and is a bit more forgiving to beginners.

I only have small clamps and need to order some for this project. I am not a regular woodworker, so I am looking for a budget solution that will not break the bank.

What are your recommendations on budget clamps needed for this project?

By the way, I do have a Harbor Freight a few miles from my home, if that helps.

[mlundy57]

I just ordered my X-LS kit from Danny and the flatpack from Peter. I have ordered the glue that Peter recommended in one of his videos because it has a longer setup time and is a bit more forgiving to beginners.

I only have small clamps and need to order some for this project. I am not a regular woodworker, so I am looking for a budget solution that will not break the bank.

What are your recommendations on budget clamps needed for this project?

By the way, I do have a Harbor Freight a few miles from my home, if that helps.

Harbor Freight has 15' ratcheting band clamps for $7 each. Two or three of these combined with four regular F type clamps would work. I'd use the band claps for the four sides and the F clamps for the top and bottom.