AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: Danny Richie on 7 Sep 2011, 10:54 pm
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Hey guys.
I have a pair of Super-V's that I am building out for the show. I will be posting a series of build pics showing these going together.
I also had a really trick looking granite type coating put on the bases, the sides, and the bow-ties. It looks gorgeous. It is really hard to photograph though. The color changes with different lighting and angles. In one angle the Black cracks pop out and in another angle the Gold cracks pop out. It's one of those finishes that makes everyone want to touch it. And another cool thing is that they don't show finger prints.
Here are a few little teasers. These pics are of one of the bases and one bow-tie.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/baseandbow1.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/baseandbow2.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/baseandbow3.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/baseandbow4.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/baseandbow5.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/baseandbow6.jpg)
More pics coming....
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wow!
I'd paint my car with that stuff if i had the vanity plate 'ROK HRD'
srsly, that finish is something else. i usually can't stand faux, but it looks like they nailed the rocky texture.
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That is one of the coolest finishes, ever.
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Very , Very , nice! I think I see where this is going. R.K.
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Looks very nice! Hoping to see these in person at RMAF in about a month.
Would also love to pick your brain (Umm.... seek input) reference my LS 6 setup and room setup.
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Cool. Perfect timing for me. I could use some inspiration.
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Here are some pics of a side panel. The pictures do not do this justice. From every angle they look different.
I am assembling these today and wait until you see the assembly pics! I already took some. :green:
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/side1.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/side2.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/side3.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/side4.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/side5.jpg)
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Okay here comes the really good pics.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/superv1.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/superv2.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/superv3.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/superv4.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/superv5.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/superv6.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/superv7.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/superv8.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/superv9.jpg)
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:drool: :thumb:
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That's a really nice look, Danny. I'm eager to see them in person.
Scott
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Really sweet looking finish on those Danny!
I keep wanting to hear a pair of Super Vs to see if they might be a better speaker for me given my listening space as compared to my LSs.
However, LSs in that finish would be pretty imposing looking. If you could somehow piano finish them as well, it would look like marble columns of sonic awesomeness.
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:thumb: Nice. What does the painter call that finish?
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Beautiful,, you make it look so easy.
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:thumb: Nice. What does the painter call that finish?
Judging from the pics it looks like spray can.
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:thumb: Nice. What does the painter call that finish?
I don't know. I went over and picked out the colors based on a sample that we made.
Judging from the pics it looks like spray can.
The dyes do not come in a spray can. It is a long layering process.
Because both sides of the side panels have to be coated (basically 8 sides) it takes a little longer than a typical box. Ed said he spent 22 hours on them.
Ed Watson is the owner of Lone Star Create Werks.
He also stated that depending on the finish he will do another set of these in any color you want for between $650 and $700. Not too bad if you ask me.
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I don't know. I went over and picked out the colors based on a sample that we made.
The dyes do not come in a spray can. It is a long layering process.
Because both sides of the side panels have to be coated (basically 8 sides) it takes a little longer than a typical box. Ed said he spent 22 hours on them.
Ed Watson is the owner of Lone Star Create Werks.
He also stated that depending on the finish he will do another set of these in any color you want for between $650 and $700. Not too bad if you ask me.
Oh cool. I said that b/c there were spray cans in the background of the pics...maybe they were for the black? Either way, they look 8) :thumb:
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Oh cool. I said that b/c there were spray cans in the background of the pics...maybe they were for the black? Either way, they look 8) :thumb:
Ah. Yes, those were Black. I used those to paint all of the other parts. They came out real well.
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What no yellow?
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What no yellow?
I still have the Yellow pair if anyone is interested. I'd make someone a really good deal on them.
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I still have the Yellow pair if anyone is interested. I'd make someone a really good deal on them.
How the heck do you still have those?
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How the heck do you still have those?
I never really advertised them. I just kept them as a personal pair.
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Those yellow Super-V's are hands down the best looking pair. But these will be cool too.
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Those yellow Super-V's are hands down the best looking pair. But these will be cool too.
Well then you need the Yellow pair. :wink:
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I'm gonna stick with the LS6's for now. If I want them painted yellow I know where to find Rueben.
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Well then you need the Yellow pair. :wink:
Pictures please
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http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=86946.0 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=86946.0)
Post #14 gives a front view of the Super-V's in yellow.
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(http://www.stereophile.com/rmaf2010/Dodd-450.jpg)
"Patricia Barber is a secret guilty passion of mine, so when I heard the sound of her singing "The Quality of Mercy" from Café Blue coming from room 2024 in the Marriott Tower, I had to go in. The system featured GR Super V open-baffle speakers ($2495/pair as a kit), which were designed by Danny Richie, who had done some of the crossover design on the well-regarded Usher Be718 speaker. Amplifiers were Dodd Audio tube monoblocks, preamp Dodd's battery-powered tube-buffered passive design. the D/A processor was the Tranquility from dB Audio Labs. This $2395 processor was being fed data via USB from a Mac mini modded by Mach2 Music. For $1495, Mach2 supplies a turnkey Mac mini fitted with a 40GB solid-state drive and 4GB of RAM, as well as a 320GB external drive for data storage and the playback software of your choice. The mini's Snow Leopard operating system has been slimmed-down by removing anything that would otherwise interfere with the task of streaming music data from the USB port.
The Mach2 Mac mini in the photo (left) has been clamped and set on cones to minimize vibration; the bottom box is a balanced AC power unit from Dodd Audio. "
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Excellent Danny. I like the contrast between the satin and the matte finish. Tone on tone always looks nice. I did my h-frames the same way with a textured matte black.
I may re-do them though, because I cut the H's with my table saw at home and everything came out 1/32nd of an inch too small. The lesson I learned was to make sure I don't use a tape measure to make measurements with. After I cut everything I checked my cuts with a really good steel straight ruler and I realized my Stanley tape measure is not 100% accurate. :duh: :duh:
Anyway, while I was doing that I was in the process of firing up my old CNC router (4x8) over the summer to cut plex for my business. What a nightmare that turned into. I had to completely gut the controller to make it Windows based (long story), because the company I originally bought it from had their own proprietary software and used boards in the controller that they weren't licensed to use. The serial #'s didn't work anymore. To get around the boards they jerry-rigged the wiring and all the connections had to be re-done. My 3-D software (Rams Pro) also needed to be upgraded and the whole thing cost me about 8 grand to get up and running again. Oh well I'll save a lot of money cutting my own acrylic now.
Back to my build though, at least now I can cut my own flat pack with the CNC for the rest of the parts. I'll probably re-do the H-frames since I really haven't invested that much time or money into them anyway. I did all the vector drawings yesterday, converted them from Illustrator to DXF files and I'm ready to go. Life should get a whole lot easier now that I don't have to cut them on my small table saw that is pretty ineffective for cuts over 12 inches.
Another thing I was thinking about doing is expose the network by using an acrylic cover. You know like a Ferrari exposing the engine through glass. I could etch in the GR logo or make my own custom Super-V logo (I'm thinking maybe like the V8 logo on a car). Gold screws, name plate etc. I could also edge light the plex to light up the logo. Could be cool if I do it right. IMO the Inductors look too cool not to be seen.
Keep the pictures coming Danny. Inspiring!
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See pics. :green:
Yes, I mirrored the crossovers.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svcrossoverpic3.jpg)
And a close up of one after adding the wiring.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svcrossoverpic1.jpg)
And yes, that big Brown square thing is a Jupiter cap.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svcrossoverpic2.jpg)
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Mmmmm, green coils! Looks delicious! Glad you're bringing them to RMAF Danny.
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Those caps make me green with envy. :)
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Hey Danny,
Shot you a note regarding the yellow Super V's...
Cheers,
JJ
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I just saw the pics from early in the thread and man oh man are they cool looking....s__t if I was like a really rich guy I'd have just called you and said them please when your done showing them, something about them is just too cool. The smooth black and then the stone look sides....NICE DANNY!!!! :thumb: :thumb:
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The new ones are magnificent. As Danny won't bring them to NJ for me to audition :wink: , I guess I'll have to go to Colorado to check them out!
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I got a surprise today and will finally get to hear a pair of these in CO myself :thumb:
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I got a surprise today and will finally get to hear a pair of these in CO myself :thumb:
I hope you'll tell us about your impressions. :thumb:
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Some more assembly pics.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/goingtogether2.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/goingtogether1.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/goingtogether3.jpg)
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/goingtogether4.jpg)
And now wiring the subs. Note how the wiring is feed through small holes in the baffle.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/goingtogether5.jpg)
The hole where the excess wiring is poking out is where the SpeakOn connector goes. On the other side of the binding post bar is where the tube connectors mount (two small holes).
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/goingtogether6.jpg)
And once the sides are all lined with No Rez, you won't see any of the wiring.
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What type of wire do you use for the servo circuit? same gauge as the speaker wire?
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Danny, in the picture showing your wiring added to the Super-V crossover, the positive source wire connecting to the green inductor and resistors continues off to the right. There is a short red wire from that connection disappearing under the negative wire to the left. Where does that red wire go to? Thanks
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:D
Danny the Pictures are great and will help me with my build Immensely.
David
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Figuring out how all the wires connect to the subs have been worrying me. This should help for sure.
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I think I've got it now. Two holes on the floor board of the upper part of the H, which is parallel to the ground. Then there are four holes in each corner of the bottom section of the Sub-baffle, perpendicular to the ground.
I'm guessing the positive and negative from the network will share the two holes of the floor board of the upper section of the H, and go straight down and across to the binding posts for the speaker wire to attach to.
Does that seem right?
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Use a small battery to test the drivers after you wire up the woofers. The hookup is complicated enough that you want to make sure they are both going the same direction. If they both hit in phase and the servo is wired correctly, you will have the best bass you have ever heard. :thumb:
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I think I've got it now. Two holes on the floor board of the upper part of the H, which is parallel to the ground. Then there are four holes in each corner of the bottom section of the Sub-baffle, perpendicular to the ground.
I'm guessing the positive and negative from the network will share the two holes of the floor board of the upper section of the H, and go straight down and across to the binding posts for the speaker wire to attach to.
Does that seem right?
Sounds like you've got it.
The only difference with mine is that I drilled a separate hole for the two wires going from the tube connectors through the floor board of the upper woofer that will allow them to head up to the crossover.
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I finally got a chance to work on these again today.
There is a pic of the crossover box with crossover inside.
(http://gr-research.com/mis/close2.jpg)
Here is one with the crossover box installed and one not.
(http://gr-research.com/mis/close1.jpg)
And finally here is a pic of one after completion.
(http://gr-research.com/mis/close3.jpg)
I still need to line them with No Rez. They need a lot of burn in time. And there are no floor spikes under them. However, they don't sound very fresh. They sound very smooth already and I had a few hours of listening on them tonight and was very pleased. This is the best pair yet.
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Personally, I cannot WAIT to hear these at RMAF! I thought the Super V's were slightly hot in the highs at last year's RMAF, but were astonishingly good everywhere else. My gut tells me that those Jupiter caps will be a nice step up in the highs!
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Last year we had some amps that were not burned in yet that made them sound a little sharp, and it didn't help much that I kept playing aggressive tracks. The speakers were also assembled just days before the show because of the late arrival of the cabinets.
Right now these are sounding really smooth already. I could listen to them all night and typically I can't stand to listen to a speaker while its fresh.
Funny thing is the area where they really sound smooth is right in the vocal region, even more so than up top. The top end is smooth too, but that vocal regionis just lush.
Personally, I cannot WAIT to hear these at RMAF! I thought the Super V's were slightly hot in the highs at last year's RMAF, but were astonishingly good everywhere else. My gut tells me that those Jupiter caps will be a nice step up in the highs!
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What amps are you using this year?
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What amps are you using this year?
It will be a surprise. :D
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Great job Danny - - those speakers are magnificent.
I too found them a bit bright last year, and the mids a bit rough; that is why -in conjunction with their powerful bass - I felt that they were especially suited for rock music. If the highs have been tamed and in particular, the midrange smoothed a bit - either through break-in, new crossover parts, and or amplification - it would catapult them to a much higher level in my view.
I too eagerly await auditioning them in Denver.
Larry
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Personally, I cannot WAIT to hear these at RMAF! I thought the Super V's were slightly hot in the highs at last year's RMAF, but were astonishingly good everywhere else. My gut tells me that those Jupiter caps will be a nice step up in the highs!
Ditto at LSAF, i would really like to hear these again with the cap upgrade. That OB bass is unforgetable. :duh:
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I think I've got it now. Two holes on the floor board of the upper part of the H, which is parallel to the ground. Then there are four holes in each corner of the bottom section of the Sub-baffle, perpendicular to the ground.
I'm guessing the positive and negative from the network will share the two holes of the floor board of the upper section of the H, and go straight down and across to the binding posts for the speaker wire to attach to.
Does that seem right?
Danny,
I don’t want to sound stupid but I don’t understand where the “floor board” and the “H” are located. There are two (2) Subwoofer Plenums stacked on top of each other where is the “H”. Also, it appears that you are using 1/4-20 Inserts to hold the Side Gables and the Plenums together. Is this the case?
David
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David,
The side panels complete the H frame. To start with you have a common baffle and a small box on the back side of each woofer.
My pair is slightly different than your pair in that I am using some 1/4 20 bolts to hold on the sides. The upper baffle is also held in with lock pins. The reason being is to make the sides removable. So in wagging these around to the show (or shows) if a side panel were to be damaged or something, then it can be removed and repaired if needed.
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David,
The side panels complete the H frame. To start with you have a common baffle and a small box on the back side of each woofer.
My pair is slightly different than your pair in that I am using some 1/4 20 bolts to hold on the sides. The upper baffle is also held in with lock pins. The reason being is to make the sides removable. So in wagging these around to the show (or shows) if a side panel were to be damaged or something, then it can be removed and repaired if needed.
Go it. Thanks for the help
David
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Danny I'm starting to piece parts together for the enclosures and I've been worrying about my crossover fitting. Looking at your photos it looks like your coax baffle is longer than mine. I noticed you are joining yours different which adds 3/4 of an inch of length but it looks like its longer even without that 3/4 of an inch.
Mine is 18.75 inches like the drawing says but my sides are higher than the bottom of the driver opening if you look at the picture. I purposely made them an inch higher for some head room to clear the smallest inductor which will be back 7 inches from the baffle. I'll have to use a really thin board to give me only about an 1/8 of an inch clearance. I was planning on putting the top on similar to how Jparkur did on his cherry sunburst cabinet. the top cover angles lower to where it will be about an inch or so below the bottom of the driver opening.
Anyway, back to my original question, did I make the baffle too short at 18.75?
Pay no attention to the two-tone. I originally cut the H with table saw/jasper jig and I decided to re-cut it all with the cnc. The top part is just resting on it for the photos. I plan on doing th 3 degree tilt on the base this time too. Too bad because the H came out real well paint wise (textured black).
Check out the new "divorce home". She got the Plantation shutters, I got the plastic blinds. At least I get to treat the room any way I want now. :D
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=51559)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=51560)
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It's no illusion. The guy that cut these flat packs for me made the front baffle a little taller.
There are several other details that are different as well. Nothing that would change how they sound though.
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Cool. I also noticed the bottom back side lines up to the base differently too. As long as it doesn't matter I'll figure out how to make the crossover fit. It'll be tight but it'll make it fit. Bottom line for me is I can't wait to get these babies going. I'm going crazy. :lol:
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It's no illusion. The guy that cut these flat packs for me made the front baffle a little taller.
There are several other details that are different as well. Nothing that would change how they sound though.
I'm thinking that could be a good thing to be a little taller for the show. I'm sure a lot of the people coming in will be standing while they're listening to them.
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See pics. :green:
Yes, I mirrored the crossovers.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svcrossoverpic3.jpg)
And a close up of one after adding the wiring.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svcrossoverpic1.jpg)
And yes, that big Brown square thing is a Jupiter cap.
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/svcrossoverpic2.jpg)
Danny,
The pictures of the crossovers look great but what is the advantage of a mirrored design?
David
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what is the advantage of a mirrored design?
It protects against vampires. :)
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LOL!
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If I got you to smile, it cancels out of one of the exasperated looks I'm sure to get from you at RMAF. :lol: :icon_lol:
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The pictures of the crossovers look great but what is the advantage of a mirrored design?
The tube connectors on the back of the speakers go to the inside edge (nearest the amp). So the wiring to the crossover goes up the inside side panel to the crossover where the input is on that same inside. Mirror imaged...
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The tube connectors on the back of the speakers go to the inside edge (nearest the amp). So the wiring to the crossover goes up the inside side panel to the crossover where the input is on that same inside. Mirror imaged...
Thanks a bunch
David
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These things sure look good with the grills on. :thumb:
(http://gr-research.com/mis/finished1.jpg)
(http://gr-research.com/mis/finished2.jpg)
(http://gr-research.com/mis/finished3.jpg)
(http://gr-research.com/mis/finished4.jpg)
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Those look great. That stone look almost looks like snake skin in some of the pictures, very cool effect.
Did you fabricate the grills ?
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I didn't sell this pair at the show so they are still available, and I will make a show special price to someone... :thumb:
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Danny, what material is the crossover mounted to in the photo's here? Is there silicon under the parts or simply pumped in around the sides of each part after it strapped down? It would seem hard to put silicon under each part and not make a mess while strapping them down.
It may seem simple but I'm worried about hooking up the wires out of the board tothe proper terminals on all the speakers. It should be intuitive but from where I am standing its not. Is there a diagram other than the wiring diagram that I have for the crossover that I can look at to help align the wiring to the correct side of the woofers and upper driver. I guess it could be hand drawn, I'm probably going to need it. I know it likely simple especially after doing it a few times and may end up being but currently it seems intimidating I must admit.
I am going to build the Super V boards in a mirrored fashion and then they mount on the deck of the speaker respectively, then the wires go up to and down to the woofers that are wired in series I presume. I'm not all that intuitive about wiring in general. Give me a skill saw please and I'll fix it:)
I am enjoying this. I just don't want to haul these now very heavy speakers down to EVS for help wiring them up if i don't have to. Probably need to. Heads up Ric. If you see this thread. I am trying and it may be easier than I think, but all new things aren't that easy the first time.
I'd really like to see a good picture of the front and back of a Super V completely wired before the no-rez goes in so I can see how the holes and where the holes are drilled optimally for all the wires going to and from the drivers and crossover.
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There are lots of good pics here. Seeing the wiring diagram that comes in the kit plus seeing a picture of the crossover posted here completed should tell you everything that you need to know. If not call me and I'll walk you through any aspect of it.
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There are lots of good pics here. Seeing the wiring diagram that comes in the kit plus seeing a picture of the crossover posted here completed should tell you everything that you need to know. If not call me and I'll walk you through any aspect of it.
Danny,
It's not always easy to find info for a particular build on threads that are really long. The info can be on multiple threads as well. It can be daunting for potential customers.
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I didn't sell this pair at the show so they are still available, and I will make a show special price to someone... :thumb:
Danny.......I emailed you re the above. Let me know
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Danny.......I emailed you re the above. Let me know
Normally a built out pair like the ones that I took to the show would have to be $7,000 for the pair. I'll let that pair go for $6,200 plus shipping.
I'll let me Lamborghini yellow pair (non Jupiter cap upgraded version) go for $5,900 or $6,200 with the new cap upgrade completed. Plus shipping.
I normally wouldn't let these go this cheap, but I am about to be spending a bunch of money on new drivers that are being produced. Plus I just don't need this many demo speakers laying around. I can always build out another set.
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Danny, I'm really confused on how to hook up the sub amp to the four wires. I'm not sure what wire is 1+ and 2+ etc. for hooking up to the SpeakOn. I notice there are two sets of wires on the Rythmik amp. Where and how do they hook up? Do I need to get a cable of some sort?
wiring with your pictures for the sub amps was a breeze (see pictures below) but not sure what to do after that. I think I have the Electra cable figured by looking at your web site but am I supposed to use the wire you supply going from the electra posts to my amp? I know these might seem like dumb questions but if thats the case I used up all the wire for the network and wiring of the drivers. I literally have about two feet of red and three feet of white left.
Thats a picture of the speaker with the sides not finished yet. Will be veneering and french polishing later. I want to burn them in now while I wait to finish them off.
Phone camera shots.
I couldn't find anything on the Rythmik site and some of the connectors supplied don't appear to fit on the cable ends of the wires in the Rythmik amp. If I'm even supposed to wire anythink to those two sets of wires. Really confused. Sorry
Larry
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53504)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53505)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53506)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53507)
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Danny, I'm really confused on how to hook up the sub amp to the four wires. I'm not sure what wire is 1+ and 2+ etc. for hooking up to the SpeakOn. I notice there are two sets of wires on the Rythmik amp. Where and how do they hook up? Do I need to get a cable of some sort?
You should have received a wiring diagram with the kit that shows you how to hook up the servo subs. If you do not have it then please e-mail a request for one to me and I will send one over to you in an e-mail.
wiring with your pictures for the sub amps was a breeze (see pictures below) but not sure what to do after that. I think I have the Electra cable figured by looking at your web site but am I supposed to use the wire you supply going from the electra posts to my amp?
You use your speaker cables from your amp to the tube connectors.
I couldn't find anything on the Rythmik site and some of the connectors supplied don't appear to fit on the cable ends of the wires in the Rythmik amp. If I'm even supposed to wire anythink to those two sets of wires. Really confused. Sorry
Cut off the slip on connectors that are attached to the amplifier wires and connect all of them to the four pole, male, SpeakOn connector.
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Run you a little panel across the back at the bottom and you'll have a nice place there to mount the connectors.
(http://gr-research.com/mis/superv8.jpg)
These flat packs that I have for the Super-V have that made with a recess edge that helps hold the rear grill. Yes the flat pack kit comes with grill frames too.
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Run you a little panel across the back at the bottom and you'll have a nice place there to mount the connectors.
(http://gr-research.com/mis/superv8.jpg)
These flat packs that I have for the Super-V have that made with a recess edge that helps hold the rear grill. Yes the flat pack kit comes with grill frames too.
show off. :D
Actually I have the plate made for the connectors. I was planning on veneering them like I'm doing the sides. Then I'll put them on. I also will have a bowtie like yours except I am replacing the bottom arc of the bowtie with a straight line. When the grills I'll be making come off, I don't want to see the points of the bottom arc extending past the bottom of the upper baffle. Not a problem with yours since your baffle is a little taller than mine.
Anyway my schedule hasn't allowed me to do the veneering part for now. I've screwed the sides on for now raw just so I can get myself going with the break-in. Also I've grown really impatient waiting this many months getting started and I'm anxious to hear them and break them in. Our favorite part of the build...the dreaded break-in period.
As for the schematic on the subs, I never saw a diagram on how to hook them up. Just the crossover network and receipt. I'll pm you with my email in case you don't have it.
Thanks Danny,
Larry
ps. After seeing my speakers for the first time at this stage My 19 yr. old son said "Woh! Beast Mode!". They're not that big really, but they do look bigger in person than in the photo's
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53504)
Larry,
I love the design of your side panels, very cool! :thumb:
Best,
Ed
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Larry,
I love the design of your side panels, very cool! :thumb:
Best,
Ed
Me too Larry. Nice look!
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Thanks Ebag/Danny.
I did about 50 drawings before I decided on that one (the curse of being a graphic designer :D).
Much inspiration from all the designs I saw here of course. I was hoping to make the look of the overall footprint appear a little smaller, and I wanted to incorporate straight lines with curves. I actually might re-do them though.
After I put them on I realized I made two small mistakes. you can't tell in this photo but there is a small gap of open air showing where the front/bottom curve of the side panels meets the bottom/sides of the H-frame. That curve of the side panel needs to come forward toward the front to cover it up about an inch. I could just add a small piece of mdf to cover it up, or just readjust the design a little and re cut them.
I've got a cnc and the mdf to do that so it really isn't much of problem for me. Also, I wouldn't mind lowering the bottom line of the sides about an inch. I purposely raised it a little because I thought some of the designs looked a bit low for my taste and we're fighting with the floor so to speak. But I think I over compensated and made the bottom a little too high now that I have them on. I attribute that to me missing the height of the 3 degree risers I have on my base. I'll live with these for a couple weeks looking at them before I decide. Worst case is I'll keep these on temporarily while I re-cut, veneer, and french polish the new ones with the minor adjustments.
Anyway, I'm having fun.
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One other thing I forgot to mention is that picture is really blotchy and over exposed. The black h-frame came out much better than it looks in those photos (i-phone camera). They're textured flat black and they came out real well. I'm hoping that will be a nice contrast with the glossy french polished sides. I'm practicing french polishing now before I get to the real thing.
If I pull it off it should look like an expensive acoustic guitar finish (which they still do). It's an ancient method of finishing wood that has been replaced by polyurethane because it takes so long to do, but the finish is to die for if done correctly. I don't recommend doing it unless you have instructional cd's etc. To do all four sides will take several weeks/months. That will give me something to do while they break in I guess.
I'll take pictures with a good camera when I'm done.
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Danny:
Do you remember the size of your room at the Rocky Mountain show?
Are most of the rooms that size?
Thanks.
Rocket_Size Matters_Ronny
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We had a double sized room :D that was double priced. :( It was 26' by 19'.
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Super Size Me. :o
So the regular rooms are rather tiny then?
Do you remember where you placed the speakers, etc? How far off the back wall, spread, and distance to listening chair.
26 x 19 is one of my favorite sized rooms. That is what people should buy before spending crazy money of gear.
If you feel comfortable telling what a room costs then please share. If that's crossing the line ignore it, or just tell me I am too Nosy. :roll:
Rocket_Ronny
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I don't know the exact room placement details of the speakers.
The room cost can be found on the RMAF web site. I pre-paid early and got a slight discount. So it was only $4,400.
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I can understand a little amnesia on speaker placement as that can be proprietary. :lol:
Glad you got a good deal. Gulp. :o
Thanks,
Rocket_Ronny