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Thanks for the reply I don't think you're being argumentative, just informative. Based on your response, I probably didn't explain myself well enough though.Quote from: dBe on 4 Jun 2009, 09:45 pmIf you really did get shocked, I would throw the cord away that you pluged into the unit because it is leaky.I'm no stranger to getting shocked by electrical components, so I certainly know what it feels like. The cord I was using is the Elektra that Danny shipped with the unit. Here's what happened in greater detail:The Majik Buss was plugged into the wall. I was experimenting with a hum I was getting from my Emotiva MPS-1. The hum is subtle and inaudible in my theater, except through the surrounds (since people sit so close to them). I get the hum in one outlet, but not in the other. I experimenting to see if the Majik Buss would clean this up, but I couldn't test it fully because of the GFCI outlets (I'll change them out with a regular outlet and see how it goes). Anyways... I unplug my amp from the Majik Buss, unplug the Majik Buss from the wall, and I sat there thinking for a good 10-15 seconds. I decide to take the unit upstairs and try it with my RS850's in the living room. I picked up the end of the Elektra power cord (which is plugged into the back of the Majik Buss) and was shocked. Again, the unit was not plugged into the wall. Obviously, I could have picked up the power cord "further down" instead of letting my hand get in contact with the neutral/hot/ground prongs, but I've never had to worry about that with any other appliance I've used before. The only time I worry about residual current is when I disassemble electronics (CRT monitors, etc). Even though a flyback in a CRT TV/monitor holds a charge for a substantial amount of time, I've never had the power creep back into the power cord.Quote from: dBe on 4 Jun 2009, 09:45 pmI have not thought about GFI compatibility with its use since a GFI (and the internal MOVs or crowbar, whatever...) should never be used for a high quality audio system, but I will put an inclusion on the website. It is not a ground fault, but a discharge of a 5.6 ufd cap from neutral to ground (or vice versa) of whatever the ground to neutral potential is at your outlet. If it is more than 3-4 volts, you have a big problem in your house somewhere with a swapped neutral and hot wire. This will play hell with all kinds of appliances and even light bulbs. BTW, the comparator in a GFI will trip @ 5 milliamps when new and they continue to age over time and can trip at as little as a milliamp when 10-15 years old.Good to know. I have no idea why the original homeowner decided to toss a couple GFI outlets in the basement (Only a couple outlets are protected. The rest are normal). He must have had a couple lying around left over and just threw them in.
If you really did get shocked, I would throw the cord away that you pluged into the unit because it is leaky.
I have not thought about GFI compatibility with its use since a GFI (and the internal MOVs or crowbar, whatever...) should never be used for a high quality audio system, but I will put an inclusion on the website. It is not a ground fault, but a discharge of a 5.6 ufd cap from neutral to ground (or vice versa) of whatever the ground to neutral potential is at your outlet. If it is more than 3-4 volts, you have a big problem in your house somewhere with a swapped neutral and hot wire. This will play hell with all kinds of appliances and even light bulbs. BTW, the comparator in a GFI will trip @ 5 milliamps when new and they continue to age over time and can trip at as little as a milliamp when 10-15 years old.
More results:In my basement, I get 0.4v from *hot* to ground and 121v from neutral to ground (the opposite of upstairs). My wiring down there is obviously reversed (at least to that jack). Here's the interesting part:After unplugging the Majik Buss from the wall (my basement outlet), I can measure (on the power cord, not the recepticles) from hot to ground or neutral to ground and my meter spikes to about 30 volts and creeps back down to 0. If I lift a probe off and measure again, it spikes to 30, drops to 0 (rinse and repeat). I sat and did this for about 3 minutes with the same results until I apparently got a little too close with one of my leads and the current "jumped" from the neutral to ground plug (a quick small blue spark). After this happened, my meter didn't read anything between the two contacts. I plugged the unit back into the wall, unplugged it, and I get the same spikes to 30v again. Even more interesting is the fact that this doesn't happen when I use the properly wired recepticle upstairs in my office. I get the same "spikes", but only up to a half volt.
<<Note to self, unplug it from the IEC end first.>>Dave, that might be a handy thing to add to your instructions in big bold capital letters. Saftey first, then there's covering your own a$$. aa Personally Dave, after seeing the connectivity sparks the 1st time I plugged in the power cord to the Majik Buss, there's no way in hell I'd be touching the power cord's AC pins. But hey, that's just me. I do enough stupid sh!t as it is w/o asking for it. Danny, do you have your balanced power conditioner plugged into the Majik Buss or are you plugging the Majik Buss into the balanced power conditioner? Thanks.Robin
Good call. It's definitely a good idea to cover yourself.In case anyone was curious, I left my Majik Buss unplugged yesterday from 11:58 AM to 12:00PM (a full 12 hours) and my meter was still showing 28 volts. It apparently takes quite some time for that current to go away... Now I'm headed downstairs to fix my screwed up wiring. -Mike
I compared a stock, non-audiophile power cord with the Electra powering a McAlister PP150 amp. It was like listening to two different systems, no comparison. Less edge, more texture, a more natural timbre, and more open. Leaving the Electra with the amp, the Majik was inserted between the wall and a modified DAC60 using the B outlet. Again, no comparison. A cleaner sound was immediately evident with a more holographic presentation. Neither difference was subtle by any stretch. Unfortunately or fortunately, both just became essential. While not the most detailed comparison, it didn't need to be to identify the improvements. These both deserve some serious attention.
Mike,I have got to have your last name. The revision that I am going to make is to be called: "The Mike (your name here) Memorial Tweak" It is only fitting, me thinks.Dave
You guys crack me up. I need some of what you guys have been eating, drinking, and/or smoking because I'm clearly missing out on something.