[alaska_grown]

Yet Another Double Trouble Build Tread!

I purchased the first double trouble earlier in the year along with the flat pack. It looks good and sounds amazing. In building the first one I used a walnut vinyl wrap on the outside, duratex on the inside, and rubber edge banding along the edges. While I think it looks good, it's just not exactly what I am looking for in the cabinet*. So, when I purchased a second DT, I skipped on purchasing the flat pack as I was thinking on ideas for a build that would suit what I want the final product to look like.

My current draft is similar in nature to what Ron at NRD shows off in his videos and what this guy shows off here https://www.hifivision.com/threads/unrestrained-mystery-ob-subwoofer-finale.90754/.

So, to my questions...

1. Has anyone else used butcher block countertop in a build before? Any types of wood to steer clear of? My local options are hevea, teak, acacia, and oak. Less than that with obtaining one that is unfinished, square edged, and the right dimensions to minimize scrap.

2. How necessary is the panel separating the woofers? Would there be a problem with just skipping out on that? Or, perhaps, making it 1.5-in thickness so I can use the same butcher block material without having to shave it down?

3. I used threaded inserts, bolts, and foam gasketing to hold down a baffle on a previous build I was playing around with. Made it very easy for messing with materials, crossovers, and changing out the baffle without screwing up the whole cabinet. I am considering doing the same for this as breaking the subs down would make my somewhat frequent large distance moves significantly easier. Anyone have experience with doing this? Any pitfalls to look out for?


*Edit: the flat pack is very well made. But, going backwards to trim down the original box and replace the vinyl wrap with veneer in all those nooks and crannies looks to be a project that is beyond my skill level.

[mlundy57]

Have used butcher block to build desk tops and work tables but not speaker boxes. However, in my experience, butcher block is very stable due to the way it's glued up so any type of wood should be fine. Just be sure the inside dimensions of each driver opening are 13" x 13" so the drivers will fit. The cavity depths are also important so stick to the plans. A little deeper is OK but I'd ask Danny before going any shallower.

The dividers between the drivers are necessary. Not only for cavity separation but also for bracing.

If you are only talking about using inserts for attaching the drivers, that's fine. If you are thinking about using inserts to make knock-down cabinets, that's another matter. While I can't say for a fact it won't work as I've never tried it, I don't see how a knock-down cabinet would be strong and stiff enough for a subwoofer enclosure. I'd glue them up properly then if I were going to move them regularly I'd build crates with casters along the lines of those used for moving pro audio gear for concerts.

If you go with the crates and have somebody to help lift the subwoofers onto and off of the crate base, you wouldn't need to remove the drivers.

[Early B.]

Another option is a modular design, i.e., each woofer is placed in a separate cabinet and stacked. Attach with threaded inserts or bolts. Easy to dismantle and transport. 

[alaska_grown]

Have used butcher block to build desk tops and work tables but not speaker boxes. However, in my experience, butcher block is very stable due to the way it's glued up so any type of wood should be fine. Just be sure the inside dimensions of each driver opening are 13" x 13" so the drivers will fit. The cavity depths are also important so stick to the plans. A little deeper is OK but I'd ask Danny before going any shallower.

The dividers between the drivers are necessary. Not only for cavity separation but also for bracing.

If you are only talking about using inserts for attaching the drivers, that's fine. If you are thinking about using inserts to make knock-down cabinets, that's another matter. While I can't say for a fact it won't work as I've never tried it, I don't see how a knock-down cabinet would be strong and stiff enough for a subwoofer enclosure. I'd glue them up properly then if I were going to move them regularly I'd build crates with casters along the lines of those used for moving pro audio gear for concerts.

If you go with the crates and have somebody to help lift the subwoofers onto and off of the crate base, you wouldn't need to remove the drivers.

Thanks! Going to keep the overall internal dimensions the same as the flat pack. Primary parts I plan to modify are to even out the differences between the internal and external panels of the side walls and to either make the top and bottom panels flush with the sides or at least a uniform 1.5-in thickness. Something that may be easier to do by just adding strips of mdf around an unfinished cabinet to fill in the edges and routing down the edges of the top and bottom panels. But now that I assembled, painted, and wrapped, not sure. Still considering doing this as it would be far cheaper than starting from scratch.

Another option is a modular design, i.e., each woofer is placed in a separate cabinet and stacked. Attach with threaded inserts or bolts. Easy to dismantle and transport.

Hmmm... that's an idea I haven't considered. Can still take apart, just smaller sections of the overall box. Thanks!