Bicycling Off-Road

Levi · « **Reply #460 on:** 5 Aug 2010, 02:28 am »

Quote from: JoshK on 2 Aug 2010, 02:56 am

really? I can't see the smaller ring in that photo. The guide does look like a derailleur on second glance.

39/26....guess that is a good compromise. Kindly like a compact I guess.

Here is the picture of my SRAM XX crankset. You can see the smaller ring this way.

It is an very good compromise. I don't think you need a 42t chainring off-road. I never used it. Likewise, 39t front ring clears logs no problems. I used to use an XTR triple chainring. I modified it to double and dropped the 42t but it is only 32/24t so it is not as fast as the 39/26t combination.

Old setup with Shimano XTR M970 with modified 2x9 drivetrain. That is 32/24t and bashguard (replacing the 42t). It is good enough below 20mph.

PhilNYC · « **Reply #461 on:** 5 Aug 2010, 10:27 am »

Levi, did you change your rear cassette when you went to the 39/26 in front?

Levi · « **Reply #462 on:** 5 Aug 2010, 11:11 am »

Yes. I changed the rear to a 10-speed cassette. Then I figured the rear derailleur has to be changed along with shifter, 10spd chain etc., etc. I could probably could have left the rear cassette alone but it just make sense to go SRAM XX all the way. It does worked together like music in harmony.

PhilNYC · « **Reply #463 on:** 5 Aug 2010, 11:27 am »

Quote from: Levi on 5 Aug 2010, 11:11 am

Yes. I changed the rear to a 10-speed cassette. Then I figured the rear derailleur has to be changed along with shifter, 10spd chain etc., etc. I could probably could have left the rear cassette alone but it just make sense to go SRAM XX all the way. It does worked together like music in harmony.

What was the cog range on your old cassette, and what is the new one?

Levi · « **Reply #464 on:** 5 Aug 2010, 11:30 am »

Old one was 11-32 using short cage dérailleur.

JoshK · « **Reply #465 on:** 5 Aug 2010, 01:27 pm »

That is what I was thinking of doing. Dropping the 42t ring, adding a bashguard in its place and then upping the medium chainring one size. But I was going to leave the granny as is.

I plan to leave everything alone until I got some miles on it and confirm that is what I want, but I can already tell it'll be the way to go.

I can tell you have some bucks into that bike. Are you running tubeless? That is another mod I am considering as my Bontrager wheels/tires are "tubeless ready".

Levi · « **Reply #466 on:** 5 Aug 2010, 02:06 pm »

Yup. Running tubeless with sealant.

Like what Phil mentioned, audio gears costs way more than bike parts.

SET Man · « **Reply #467 on:** 5 Aug 2010, 10:55 pm »

Quote from: Levi on 5 Aug 2010, 02:06 pm

....

Like what Phil mentioned, audio gears costs way more than bike parts.

Hey!

Another + for bike is that it's also good for your health and body

Hmmm... I need to take my bike out for spin a bit more

Take care,
Buddy

PhilNYC · « **Reply #468 on:** 6 Aug 2010, 12:34 am »

Quote from: Levi on 5 Aug 2010, 11:30 am

Old one was 11-32 using short cage dérailleur.

What's the new one?

Levi · « **Reply #469 on:** 6 Aug 2010, 01:36 am »

New one is the sram xx 10-speed 11-36 cog.

brj · « **Reply #470 on:** 6 Aug 2010, 04:22 am »

Quote from: JoshK

I can tell you have some bucks into that bike. Are you running tubeless? That is another mod I am considering as my Bontrager wheels/tires are "tubeless ready".

Be aware that there are different types of "tubeless". The older, and still more common type of tubeless is "UST".

Levi is running ZTR Crest rims which are a new style of tubeless tire system that is lighter than UST based wheels, though it requires a special sealant inside the tires once they are seated. Check out www.notubes.com for details on this system. It works amazingly well, though seating the tire the first time was a painful experience. I picked up a set of new wheels using the same ZTR Crest rims in February at the beginning of a mountain bike trip to Phoenix, and 2 days later nailed a cholla (cactus) pod dead-on. 2 minutes of work with the multitool to pull the dozens of spikes, and I was up and riding again - no air loss whatsoever. And the wheels are much lighter than my old ones. (Reducing rotational mass is a bigger benefit than reducing non-rotating mass.)

JoshK · « **Reply #471 on:** 6 Aug 2010, 02:04 pm »

Thanks.

I have Bontrager XDX tires and Bonty Duster rims. Apparently this is their own system, but uses a sealant too to run tubeless.

jackman · « **Reply #472 on:** 6 Aug 2010, 02:57 pm »

Quote from: Levi on 6 Aug 2010, 01:36 am

New one is the sram xx 10-speed 11-36 cog.

SRAM is making some nice cassettes these days. I'm going to pick up a new one for my Road bike. The new Apex has a really wide range, something like 11-36 for a road cassette. They are sold out at the moment but for $60'ish, it's worth trying.

Josh, how about a picture of those new bikes?

PhilNYC · « **Reply #473 on:** 7 Aug 2010, 12:48 am »

Quote from: jackman on 6 Aug 2010, 02:57 pm

SRAM is making some nice cassettes these days. I'm going to pick up a new one for my Road bike. The new Apex has a really wide range, something like 11-36 for a road cassette. They are sold out at the moment but for $60'ish, it's worth trying.

A 36 for a road cassette? I can't even imagine a need for that...

JoshK · « **Reply #474 on:** 7 Aug 2010, 01:33 am »

The MTB

PhilNYC · « **Reply #475 on:** 7 Aug 2010, 02:00 am »

Quote from: JoshK on 7 Aug 2010, 01:33 am

The MTB

Looks great! Although isn't the seat a little low?

PhilNYC · « **Reply #476 on:** 7 Aug 2010, 02:05 am »

Quote from: brj on 6 Aug 2010, 04:22 am

Be aware that there are different types of "tubeless". The older, and still more common type of tubeless is "UST".

Levi is running ZTR Crest rims which are a new style of tubeless tire system that is lighter than UST based wheels, though it requires a special sealant inside the tires once they are seated. Check out www.notubes.com for details on this system. It works amazingly well, though seating the tire the first time was a painful experience. I picked up a set of new wheels using the same ZTR Crest rims in February at the beginning of a mountain bike trip to Phoenix, and 2 days later nailed a cholla (cactus) pod dead-on. 2 minutes of work with the multitool to pull the dozens of spikes, and I was up and riding again - no air loss whatsoever. And the wheels are much lighter than my old ones. (Reducing rotational mass is a bigger benefit than reducing non-rotating mass.)

What options for tires are there that work with the ZTR rims? And what hubs are you using?

jackman · « **Reply #477 on:** 7 Aug 2010, 03:18 am »

Quote from: PhilNYC on 7 Aug 2010, 12:48 am

A 36 for a road cassette? I can't even imagine a need for that...

Sorry, 11-32! I am thinking about trying one out because I struggle on hills (in Wisconsin). I would try a 36 if I could (as an extra cassette for hilly areas only, not everyday) but my rear DR would not work with such a wide range. You would need a long cage, MTB-type, rear derailleur.

jackman · « **Reply #478 on:** 7 Aug 2010, 03:20 am »

Quote from: PhilNYC on 7 Aug 2010, 02:00 am

Looks great! Although isn't the seat a little low?

I'm with Phil. That saddle looks low. Did you take the picture before you adjusted it? If the saddle heigth fits you, your frame might be too large.

PhilNYC · « **Reply #479 on:** 7 Aug 2010, 10:52 am »

Quote from: jackman on 7 Aug 2010, 03:20 am

I'm with Phil. That saddle looks low. Did you take the picture before you adjusted it? If the saddle heigth fits you, your frame might be too large.

You know, I just remembered that this bike is a 29er...so I might be wrong...