Bicycling Off-Road

Don_S · « **Reply #200 on:** 23 Dec 2009, 12:50 am »

I always liked the Merlin satin finish better than the other options available at the time-bright polish or unpolished pewter-like (darker). After almost 15 years, Lemon Pledge still keeps my bike glowing with a soft sheen and smelling lemony-fresh. aa

Levi · « **Reply #201 on:** 23 Dec 2009, 05:39 am »

I love steel but they rust over time when neglected. Titanium atomic number 22 in the Periodic table lasts a lifetime.

satfrat · « **Reply #202 on:** 23 Dec 2009, 06:24 am »

Quote from: Levi on 23 Dec 2009, 05:39 am

I love steel but they rust over time when neglected. Titanium atomic number 22 in the Periodic table lasts a lifetime.

The fact that titanium is ultralight when compared to steel can only be of help for those middle aged legs of yours Levi when you're treking out there in them woods.

Cheers,
Robin

Don_S · « **Reply #203 on:** 23 Dec 2009, 07:10 am »

Quote from: Levi on 23 Dec 2009, 05:39 am

I love steel but they rust over time when neglected. Titanium atomic number 22 in the Periodic table lasts a lifetime.

Actually Ti bikes are referred to as "legacy" bikes. They last longer than a lifetime.

ctviggen · « **Reply #204 on:** 23 Dec 2009, 12:35 pm »

Aluminum also doesn't "rust". (Well, it does, but it doesn't flake off like iron rust does.) No love for aluminum here?

Personally, I went from an aluminum road bike to a steel road bike, and I'll be darned if I could tell a difference. The aluminum bike had zero rust after 8 years; the steel bike was a rust bucket after a few.

bunnyma357 · « **Reply #205 on:** 23 Dec 2009, 01:45 pm »

I'll stick with steel - I've got 3 of 'em, two are over 25 years old - so I really don't think rust is that big of an issue for anyone who halfway takes care of their bikes.

Jim C

Levi · « **Reply #206 on:** 23 Dec 2009, 01:51 pm »

Hey Robin,

Don't give my age away. Ha ha ha. I switched from steel to Ti frame long before I passed the numbers on the calendar. Ti frame also helps absorb some of sting from small bumps giving you that "magic carpet" ride.

Never tried a good aluminum, scandium or carbon bike. I am sure there will be mixed feelings here and there.

Quote from: satfrat on 23 Dec 2009, 06:24 am

The fact that titanium is ultralight when compared to steel can only be of help for those middle aged legs of yours Levi when you're treking out there in them woods.

Cheers,
Robin

Levi · « **Reply #207 on:** 23 Dec 2009, 05:53 pm »

I found this under my pillow this morning.

I always do the work on my bike. Now I need a bearing extractor and bearing press to complete the upgrade.

Have a wonderful Holidays everyone. Ride safe!

Levi · « **Reply #208 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 06:13 am »

Ceramic bearings has been around for many years. I first encounter them in Remote Controlled gas car hobby. Over the years, I learned that ceramic bearings rolled smoother than steel. This makes them more efficient when installed in key places in bike where friction can be reduced. There are some concerns about the reliability of ceramic bearing vs steel. In my opinion ceramic bearings are better than steel when placed in key locations to reduce friction and enhance performance.

Your rear hubs is one of the key locations that can benefit from ceramic bearings. A typical high performance rear hub uses 4 or more bearings. Industry Nine XC hubs uses 4 bearings in the back and 2 bearings in the front. They are rated at ABEC5 and are truly smooth. Ceramic bearings are rated higher and because you are replacing all 4 proves to reduce the most friction enhancing performance. The bike coasts faster further and smoother.

Finally, ceramic bearing upgrade is not for everyone. It is for someone who wants the ultimate in performance from their high performance hubs. There is no guarantee that it will win races. However it is guarantee to reduce friction when installed in key locations.

Thanks for reading!

The following is DIY Industry Nine XC hub maintenance and Enduro bearing upgrade.

Tools and supplies used:
Park cassette removal tool
5mm hex keys
1.5mm hex key
1.2mm hex key
18mm socket + extension
ball pin hammer
plastic hammer
scribe or c-clip remover
small pliers
Finishline synthetic grease
rags and degreaser etc.

For more detailed instructions, maintenance guide from Industry Nine is available in their website.

Remove cassette using appropriate tools. Counter clockwise to loosen.

View with the cassette removed

Unscrew and remove the bearing tension and dustcap from the non-drive side

Pop out the drive and axle mechanism from the non-drive side using a soft plastic mallet.

Levi · « **Reply #209 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 06:15 am »

Cont...

Use 2x 5mm hex keys to unscrew and separate the axle from the drive mechanism

Axle separated from the drive mech

Levi · « **Reply #210 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 06:16 am »

Cont...working on the drive mechanism

Inspect bearings

Inspect prawls, springs and total condition of drive...looks good here!

Levi · « **Reply #211 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 06:16 am »

cont...

Prawl and spring needs to be removed to replace the 61808 bearing. Also note the C-clip securing the large bearing in place. Soft-metal drift punch is used to remove the large bearings. Careful not to ruin the hub body.

Large bearings removed. There are still 2 small 61903/29.5 bearings inside the cassette body and the 40x52mm 61804 bearing in the disc side of the hub. I used an 18mm and socket extension to extract them. Make sure not to ruin the bearing race as aluminum in general is softer than steel.

Levi · « **Reply #212 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 06:17 am »

cont...cleaning

Clean parts thoroughly.

Levi · « **Reply #213 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 06:18 am »

cont...Nice and clean parts can now be inspected for wear and tear. Looks truly good here!

All the drive parts cleaned ready for installation!

Levi · « **Reply #214 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 06:18 am »

Installation is reverse of removal. Now that was fun!

Don_S · « **Reply #215 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 04:59 pm »

Levi, Great autopsy pics. Tip to anyone attempting to remove the rear cassette. (Pic number 2 in the series). I like to put the quick release back in but loose. That keeps the special, splined socket tool from slipping out when I apply pressure to get the cassette to break loose. It can get kind of tricky trying to manage the cog wrench, crescent wrench, and loose socket tool with only two hands.

Levi · « **Reply #216 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 06:29 pm »

Actually, that is an excellent idea!

Thanks!

Quote from: Don_S on 31 Dec 2009, 04:59 pm

Levi, Great autopsy pics. Tip to anyone attempting to remove the rear cassette. (Pic number 2 in the series). I like to put the quick release back in but loose. That keeps the special, splined socket tool from slipping out when I apply pressure to get the cassette to break loose. It can get kind of tricky trying to manage the cog wrench, crescent wrench, and loose socket tool with only two hands.

BikeWNC · « **Reply #217 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 07:14 pm »

Levi! Dude, stop posting these eye candy pics!

Indy Nine hubs and ceramic bearings, dang nice setup. Indy Nine is made here in Asheville but I have yet to have the pleasure of riding them, they are loud though!

DaveC113 · « **Reply #218 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 08:41 pm »

Quote from: Levi on 22 Dec 2009, 03:35 pm

However, unlike audio the results are not subtle.

In feel maybe, but in clocked times.... not so much. Actually, it's a lot like audio

DaveC113 · « **Reply #219 on:** 31 Dec 2009, 08:44 pm »

My off-road rides:

This one goes up and down hills:

This one goes down stuff you can't even walk up: