[PaulFolbrecht]

I'm going to get line installed and have never done this before.  I was wondering if there might be particulars in wiring I might request, and also looking for tips on receptacles - are the various cryoed, hospital-grade, etc., receptacles generally worthwhile investments?  Particular recommendations?

[woodsyi]

If you are getting more than one, make sure they are on phase by placing the breakers opposite each other or skipping one slot.  I used cryoed Porter ports.

[michaelv]

I have just replaced my existing receptacle by Furutech 15A Cu.  When i start playing a cd, i can hear the difference : bass is heavier, especially, the high is smoother ( not harsh like i used to experience). I heard that new receptacle needs to be burn in. I have no experience on this , but i hope it's getting better...

[TheChairGuy]

Hey Paul,

I don't have a dedicated line, but have decent exposure to receptacles.

The $0.38 contractor jobs were displaced by $9 hospital grade units from Lowe's (made by Cooper or Eagle).  The upgrade was immeadite and noticable - the music a bit fuller and less, umm, strained. A very pleasing $9 upgrade to be sure.

I then tried the PS Audio Power Port (a Hubbell with nickel plating).  I didn't notice an iota of difference.  I paid $33.33 as PS Audio allowed P300 owners to buy three for $100.  Normally, $50 each.

Quite recently I bought Porter Ports...unlplated, deep immersion cryo'ed (Hubbell-made) ports for $36 from Audiogon.   I had hoped for the earth, moon and stars and found no terribly noticable difference from the Power Port. Maybe a smidge betterment, but not worth the swap.

So, I can wholeheartedly recommend the $9 Lowe's Hospital grade units (orange colored I8300 types), but can't really steer you to anything else.  Apparently, much of the betterment can be traced to better grip in the plug blades....and not as much as to the construction, plating process or cryo nature of the receptacle.

At least, that's been my experience - for what it's worth 

[Canyoneagle]

If I recall correctly from my AC days (Alternating current, not Audiocircle  ), a dedicated circuit can be a good start, but if your incoming AC service is grungy, you'll have to deal with the cleanup in a similar fashion (conditioning).
I lost two power supplies to bad AC power, so my .02 would be to regulate and condition the power, regardless of how it is organized in the breaker panel.

Warmly,

[bubba966]

I can wholeheartedly recommend the $9 Lowe's Hospital grade units (orange colored I8300 types), but can't really steer you to anything else.

I'll second this recommendation. The Eagle/Cooper IG8300RN that Lowe's sells for $9-$10 is great and is hard to beat.

  In fact I think I was the one to recommend them to TheChairGuy some time back...

[brj]

Bubba, didn't you have a specific recommendation for circuit breakers as well?

Thanks!

[oris98]

I was using the $9 Lowe's Hospital grade units (orange colored I8300 types) for my system.  It was definitely sound better than the original outlets.  However, after I tried one Isoclean outlet, the performance of bass, mid and high are improved for couple more levels.  I have all my outlets upgraded to Isoclean now.  Isoclean includes climp on type gold plated U connectors for all power wires connection to the polished and gold plated high percentage copper socket.

I am also thinking about to install 2 dedicated circuits with Virtual Dynamics BX cables which is protext treated, cable cooked and cyro treated before shipped from manufacturer.

 

[bubba966]

Bubba, didn't you have a specific recommendation for circuit breakers as well?

Thanks!

Yeah, If you're putting a new panel in & don't mind the $ so much a Square D QO series panel & breakers would be the way to go. Square D Homeline is also pretty good, but the QO stuff is better.

Though you really can't pick your breakers. For the most part you have to stick with the same brand & type of breakers that the panel is. Meaning you can't stick a QO breaker in a Homeline panel, can't stick a Seimens breaker in a QO panel, etc.

Yes, some panels can use different brand breakers. And it should say if you can do that or not on the sticker on the inside of the door for the panel.

[ctviggen]

I installed two silver-plated, cryogenically treated outlets AND the Chris Venhaus cap-across hot and neutral tweak, and I'll be darned if I could tell any difference between that setup and the setup I had before (cheap Home Cheapo outlets).  It did take me several hours to install, though, so perhaps there was a difference but the long time between listenings made it so that I couldn't tell. 

Regardless, I'd recommend a 20 amp circuit to be run, or perhaps two, on the same phase. 

[TheChairGuy]

I'll second this recommendation. The Eagle/Cooper IG8300RN that Lowe's sells for $9-$10 is great and is hard to beat.

  In fact I think I was the one to recommend them to TheChairGuy some time back...

You might well have, Bubba - thanks. I made homebrew 4-gang outlet boxes from them and a couple are powering my video and upstairs systems.  I bought 4 in total.  I think price was $9.88 a couple years ago.

John / TCG

[JLM]

For the price of many audio tweaks you can have the entire panel reworked/replaced.  The top circuits should go to your system.  Residental building code limits you 12 gauge wiring and 20 amp circuits.  I built a year ago and went with three 20 amp circuits, each feeding a single hospital grade cryo'd Hubbell duplex receptacle and had the 3 circuits grounded separately from the rest of the house.

(We're in the country, with our own underground service and transformer.  All applicances are new.  So A/C life here is pretty good.  We also wired for generator hookup and had a whole house surge protector installed.  With all the stuff in the house that uses delicate chips, it'd be a no brainer.)