AudioCircle
Community => Non-audio hobbies and interests => Cars and Bikes => Topic started by: stlrman on 18 Mar 2015, 11:52 am
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Is this going to be a nightmare with expensive repair costs?
For a city car , tons of potholes, worried about popping the expensive run flats.
Is it ok in snow? 328xi with 80k
Thoughts ?
Thanks!
Todd
I test drove a 2010 on a sick curvy road , wow !!!! Fun as hell!!
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My buddy had the same car. He loved it for about a year, and then, hated it. The run flats were the bane of his existence.
Driving in similar conditions as you describe, he was having to replace the tires quite often, and they are not cheap.
You can put other tires on the car however, there is just no where to put a spare, so if you get a flat tire, you are SOL.
I think outside of the tire issue, the cost of repairs with 80K on the car are going to be severe once things start to go down hill.
They are fun to drive though. You'll have to weight the pros and cons.
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Thanks KingD!!
I am also looking at an X3 SUV . Anyone have experience with the X3?
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Always been wary of the expensive car brands. Had an Audi for awhile and I absolutely loved it. Decided that I would keep it until the Warranty started to run out, then trade it in towards a cheaper car. I remember going to the dealer one time to pick it up after having routine service/oil change and the car wasn't quite ready, so I had some time to kill. I walked the Used car portion of the lot (Dealer carried Audi, Mercedes and Porsche among it's inventory). I saw a Mercedes AMG CLS 55 that was only a few years old (but probably out of warranty) and ridiculously cheap. The wheels started churning in my head.
Then I thought about how much it would cost for various things. Just the tires would set me back a good chunk of change. The thought of a major system failing and needing to be repaired/replaced have me an instant headache.
The price of parts for these cars and finding a good mechanic to maintain it was just too much of a concern for me.
A blast while I had it, though.
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I had a 3 series hatch back in the late 90's. It was the 318Ti. Super fun in the corners, and great on fuel etc.
Loved it until it started to eat coil on plugs. Then it ate its electronic brain. 3K later in one month of repairs (around 100K miles on it at the time) I sold it promptly.
I know guys that have a tremendous long term experience with BMW cars, but my own was mixed.
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My clan has had a number of 3- and 5-series cars over the years. We usually BUY them at 100k miles and drive them until the wheels fall off at 250K+. Only large repair was a $3k head gasket and it STILL ran another 100k after that
My "new" 525i is a 2003 that i've had for 10 years. New alternator and battery last year at 100K. NO other repairs besides that. Though the 2005 and after series seem to have newer tech and newer problems.
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Mechanically, I think BMW, Mercedes, etc are solid. It's all the other little things you may have to deal with that can make ownership not very fun. Their efforts to stay on the leading edge of technology is a double edged sword. My buddy's wife had a 2009 328i with 6 speed and sport package. Fun little car for sure. But they got rid of it because any little repair was at least several hundred dollars. It wasn't that they couldn't afford it, it was just a pain. One repair was to one of the horribly designed and placed cup holders. To replace it was something like $250! :duh: Doesn't seem like much, but we're talking about a plastic cup holder here. They were always dealing with things like that.
If you go the route of BMW, Mercedes, etc, just be prepared. Note, I think issues can be entirely hit or miss, which makes things more complicated. It's a coin toss.
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Though the 2005 and after series seem to have newer tech and newer problems.
My famiily has driven many BMW's over the years, and it's absolutely true the more recent models have newer problems, a lot of it related to the over-engineered electronics and computer system. The engines and mechanics are superb, but for some reason BMW engineers have decided they wanted to be Steve Jobs :scratch:
There is no way I would ever purchase a BMW nowadays. The way to enjoy their fabulous engine and handling is to to find a good lease deal, enjoy it under warranty, then return it prompty when lease/warranty runs out.
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I have a 2004 X3, which I like. I bought it used several years ago with 48k miles on and it now has 73k (I obviously don't do a lot of driving). It runs beautifully and I've only had one malfunction, with the AC. Some seals have had to be changed because of age. And yes, the work has been costly, not so much because of parts but because to get to one thing three other things have to be removed. This is something of a problem with all modern cars because of their complexity.
The way to go with a BMW (or Audi, Mercedes, etc.) is to buy a certified pre-owned model which will come with a good warranty and, perhaps, to extend it if you plan on keeping the car a long time.
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i am on my third bmw and my wife has one. we bought all of ours pre-owned. i am lucky that i go to a very good and reasonable indie mechanic that fixes things right the first time. so, my cost of ownership has been minimal except for the fact that my Z4 got hit like 10 times during my 2 yrs of ownership.
oil changes are more expensive than japanese cars i used to own. other than that, cost of ownership is comparable if not lower. but, this is thanks to that mechanic.
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Check this site out for loads of info on BMWs:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/
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The BMW forums and the BMWCCA (BMW Car Club of America- source of the best monthly club publication I've ever known) are invaluable resources for support of any BMW owner. Great resources for troubleshooting, maintenance, parts availability, advice and sympathizing for the big repairs. Plenty of sub-forums for the specific models.
The newer BMWs have continued to evolve in mechanical and technical complexity. Some of them are not for the faint of heart to own out of warranty. That said, some of the prior generations are very stout and actually a lot of fun to work on, for the mechanically inclined.
- Ben
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Thanks to everyone for the great input!! :thumb:
There us a 2007 3 series that had been in an accident. Everything was fixed perfectly.
Only 43 thousand miles. 13 grand $$. Stay away???
Also looking at a 2006 3 wagon with 86,000 miles on it . More space , same great or close to same 3 series ride. 12 grand
Thoughts ...? Thanks
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Seems high on both, but then again, I'm cheap. :?
How bad was the wreck?
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99 M3 that I picked up at 70 and now has 180K miles on it
2005 X5 130K now has 160K on it.
I do all my own mechanical work, parts online are way way cheaper than at the dealer and about the same as any other vehicle. And they are the same brand as the dealer
If you dont do your own work find a good indy BMW shop, they are generally better than the dealer and A LOT cheaper
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Over the last 5 years I have had a 2011 335xi (new via a lease) and 2009 M3 (purchased used).
While neither is probably viewed as an "older" model, I can say that my experience with both has been extremely positive.
I bought my M3 from a seller on one of the more active BMW forums (http://www.e90post.com/forums/) and the car was in practically new shape with low miles! The owner had all maintenance records and because of that, I wasn't afraid to purchase used without a warranty.
Owning any German car is not an inexpensive proposition. But if you can find a good independent mechanic (again, the forums are a great place to find somebody and get feedback), the costs are significantly lower than what dealers charge.
Depending on the year and make, the forums have tons of info on common and know challenges/issues. You can leverage this info to narrow down potential purchases or to bake into your cost of ownership.
Lastly...I TRULY ENJOY both cars and don't have a single regret with either.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HJECVbqmYIg/Uzn7jmDimnI/AAAAAAAASiQ/v8YD-72AYd0/w1024-h684-no/DSC_0933_1.jpg)
George
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George , that photo , car is sick!!! :thumb:
Front end damage, sales guy had it up on lift , could not find where damage was.
Going to see the wagon today .
I found 5star local Beemer auto shop
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I'm looking at KBB , does suggested retail mean anything??? Dealers are way higher !!!
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I drove & loved BMW cars/motorcycle (82 325is, 87 535is, 95 R100RT) in the early 80's thru 2013 putting huge miles on each - all earlier machines than are being discussed here. I always had a great independent mechanic for the bike & cars but even then it was BMW (bring my wallet) on the rare occasion trouble occurred. Those same mechanics complain today of the unreliability of the newer machines & adamantly say stay away unless you have deep pockets or lease/trade before trouble starts.
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:lol: BMW = Bring My Wallet
Never heard that one before. :thumb:
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SCCA = Spoiled Children Crash Automobiles
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For what it's worth, my brother in-law has been down on them since they implemented iDrive. He thinks that they felt that they had to keep up with Mercedes electronic cockpit offerings and weren't ready for prime time. His bimmer predates iDrive.
Scotty
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Sold! Sooooo happy!! :thumb: :D
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=117068)
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The wagons are under appreciated. Nice choice!
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Thanks mcgxr! I like that it feels way more roomy than the 3 series that I was looking at . It has the huge sunroof of the SUVs, it drives like a dream!!!!! It has navigation, a small but roomy trunk. I feel like I am in the cockpit of a fighter jet. It handled awesome on some curvy roads. Great acceleration, fantastic braking, and corners like a champ.
I got 5,500$ for my 2003 Lexus rx300 which needed $1000 worth of new tires. payments are $150 :o for five years. About $8500 worth of payments. I feel like I stole this thing.
Super happy with the performance of this vehicle!! :thumb: :thumb:
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How much will new tires cost on the Bimmer?
Scotty
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About 1/3 more expensive on average.
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Last year I purchased a 2006 BMW 550i with 110,000 mile. It was a former CPO and had been dealer maintained. I purchased new tires, $700, and had the oil changed. The local BMW dealer I brought it to said it needed nothing, a first from a dealer for me. You could never tell it is 9 years old with 121,000 miles on it. It drives better than some new cars I have been in.
I love it and it was worth the $11,000.00 I paid for it, it always bring a smile to me face when I drive it.
Good luck.
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It figures, and you can't put crap tires on a vehicle whose suspension is designed for high performance tires. The spring rates and shock absorbers/struts are designed to work within a narrow range of tire sidewall compliances. I tried it once, substituting a set of H rated tires for V rated tires and it was like driving on marbles,D'oh! Of course going up to Z rated rubber was no problem except for my finances.
Scotty
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I put Continental ExtremeContact DWS Tires on my car, which is one that is highly recommended.
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For what it's worth, my brother in-law has been down on them since they implemented iDrive. He thinks that they felt that they had to keep up with Mercedes electronic cockpit offerings and weren't ready for prime time. His bimmer predates iDrive.
Scotty
I actually think iDrive is easier to use and more intuitive than the similar functionality from MB and Audi.
George
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How much will new tires cost on the Bimmer?
Scotty
Really depends on a variety of factors: How do you drive? What are the weather conditions? What do you prioritize - ride comfort, performance, etc...?
For both of my BMW's, I ditched the stock run flats and went with traditional tires.
Because I live in the Northeast, I went with two sets of tires/wheels - a high performance summer set and snow tire based winter set
To learn more about what tires would work well, tirerack.com is a great place to start.
George
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Hi George,
How do you run regular tires? There is no room for a spare.
What happens if I get a flat on the turnpike ? Do I get towed?
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Hi George,
How do you run regular tires? There is no room for a spare.
What happens if I get a flat on the turnpike ? Do I get towed?
I call AAA and get towed.
I hate the ride and noise of the run flats and they are very, very, very expensive (especially in a high performance summer tire).
George
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My 2003 BMW 540i was the best car I ever owned and I still miss it. At around 80k, maintenance became a bitch--cooling system, suspension, vcgs, etc., and I ended up trading it at about 110k towards an Infiniti G37x... ironically my Inifiniti salesman owned an E39 540i as well and told me I'm not going to be happy, lol.
Tip: If you go for the car, find yourself a good independent mechanic who knows the vehicle and is reasonable.
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Very interesting and information thread.
If one wanted to buy a used luxury car or SUV that was low maintenance, reliable, built well, and is fun to drive, what would the forum members pick? Budget: $15-$20k.
(OP: Hope I am not taking this thread offtrack. If so, please let me know and I will delete this post. I too was looking for similar answers so I thought making the question a bit more open ended might help.)
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No problem at all.
The thing is I doubt you can find a more fun , exciting car to drive period. I might look at used Lexus is 250
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Very interesting and information thread.
If one wanted to buy a used luxury car or SUV that was low maintenance, reliable, built well, and is fun to drive, what would the forum members pick? Budget: $15-$20k.
(OP: Hope I am not taking this thread offtrack. If so, please let me know and I will delete this post. I too was looking for similar answers so I thought making the question a bit more open ended might help.)
Sure you wouldn't like to cure cancer and bring peace to all while asking for everything on your list? :lol: :lol:
Where do you live?
Do you want a coupe, sedan, or hatch?
How many people need to comfortably fit in it?
How many miles a year do you drive?
Probably lots of other questions to help you narrow down your search.
George
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Sure you wouldn't like to cure cancer and bring peace to all while asking for everything on your list? :lol: :lol:
Where do you live?
Do you want a coupe, sedan, or hatch?
How many people need to comfortably fit in it?
How many miles a year do you drive?
Probably lots of other questions to help you narrow down your search.
George
Hahaha touche!
I live in Chicago, and there are 4 of us (2 kids). I currently have a 2004 Acura MDX - which actually drives well, but was looking for alternatives. This will be mostly a weekend car - average 20-30 miles a day including long road trips. Fuel efficiency would really not be a concern.
The budget is actually flexible - I was looking to understand what people would consider a "good used car" in the older luxury car segment. I also wanted to know about both sedan and SUV options. If sedan, it would be a second car, and if SUV, it would be a replacement. But I do like cars that are engineered well, and feel solid. In fact to that extent, I find the new MDX more plasticky than my older model, although it does have all the fancy gadgetry that most new cars nowadays have. I'm happy with my radio and Garmin GPS!
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You will get more response starting your own thread .
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Thanks, i will. And yes, I am also derailing this thread quite a bit.
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Is premium gas a must for 2006 model ?
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Is premium gas a must for 2006 model ?
I think so, but you should double check your manual or driver's side door panel.
Not sure if the engine choice matters as well.
George
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Hi George,
How do you run regular tires? There is no room for a spare.
What happens if I get a flat on the turnpike ? Do I get towed?
No room for a spare in a wagon? That seems outrageous to me.
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=117201)
Yes, there is no room in the trunk. I guess they don't want the added weight.
I am not happy about the run flats at all, as you pretty much need a tow truck with a flat bed.
I will say that everything else is perfectly designed. Rain sensor wipers that are whisper quite. The driving experience is exhilarating!!!! :thumb: :D the acceleration is freaking thrilling! The engine roars when you step on it, and I just discovered sport mode! the steering is what I imagined a Porche would feel like, and the breaking is astonishing! If you are a driving enthusiast this ride is the SHIT!! I drove my Brothers 911 Porshe many years ago, and from what I remember I would take my BMW's ride in a heart beat for an everyday driver.
I love the look of my wagon way better than the four door 3 series. There are eight billion 3 series on the road , and seeing another wagon here is rare.
ctviggen , have you ever driven a BMW?
I think paying way more for repairs over other vehicles is way worth for the drive experience. Ok you can see I'm really excited about this car. If I can pull it off, I would never drive another brand of car ever again.
I had a low end Jaguar , X Type , I had a Lexus RX 300 ,2003, they are not even on the same planet as this car. My wagon also has a $3,000 computer Navagation system., that connects to Bluetooth, Bonus !
I'm sorry if I seem overzealous, but I can't believe how much fun I'm having driving this car!!! :icon_lol:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=117200)
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I have a 2006 330Xi with run flats and have a different perspective.
Run flats are potentially safer in a high speed blow out situation, this could be a life saver. BMW also claim they tune the suspension to compensate for the different characteristics of run flats, not sure if this is reality or propaganda?
The first generation run flats were really awful, too stiff side walls, now some manufacturers are on their third generation and they've improved significantly but still more expensive.
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AND...I'm getting rid of this car in a few weeks. The driving position is like a recumbent bike for me. I'm 5'3".
My hips are in agony after a 20 min. Drive . Stiff, sore painful. I will be spending long hours in this car.
NO CAN DO. :duh: :duh: :duh:
Dealer said I can pick out something different when my owners card comes in.
The car is a fucking joy to drive. But I'm in near agony .
Todd
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Are you sure that you have tried all possible seating positions?
I know people at work who are around your height and they don't have any issues.
Such a shame if you have to get rid of it.
George
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Are you sure that you have tried all possible seating positions?
I know people at work who are around your height and they don't have any issues.
Such as shame if you have to get rid of it.
George
+1. My wife had both an e46 and e92 M3 and neither bothered her after she figured out how to adjust the seat to get rid of the numbness in her right leg. She's 5'2". Tweaking the angle and extension of the seat bottom fixed it.
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Thanks guys. You are right, I should not give up yet . I will take it into a BMW dealer near here today.
It is super odd that my seats are ll manual adjust , when the rest of the car is properly pimped out. The seat back feels very comfortable and supportive . I think maybe the height adjust is broken. I'm very low, and can not see the hood at all. Hope to get it worked out today , and drive for a few days.
Also I will look into stretches to open up the hips. I never had this type of pain stiffness in the hips.
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Also looking at this car on his lot.
http://www.auto.com/cars/Volvo-S40-2.4i-2008-YV1MS390582403840#info
I have read nothing but great reviews. Seems like a nice ride, good handling .
Will it perform like the 3 series?, no way.
I will be driving for Lyft and maybe Uber this summer. This means spending 9 hours straight in my vehicle.
I need ultimate comfort over performance, I'd say .
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Volvo will eat you alive on maintenance and parts costs. :o
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I am wondering if the 5 series has much different seat geomitry???
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Raised the seats !! :thumb: feels way better. I'll see if my hip pain goes away .
I will also stretch and exercise the hips . Should no in a few days.
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Any type of lean-back / hip forward seating position will lead to varying degrees of hip, back, and leg discomfort over a varying duration of time (for different people). A higher and more upright seating position should help a lot in your car, though it may not eliminate the issue. Our bodies just aren't made to sit for long periods regardless of how ergonomically correct a seat/chair is or how mobile/immoble a person is. Stop for breaks every 1-2 hours to stretch, stand, and walk a bit. As far as seat ergonomics are concerned, I'd be very surprised if BMW doesn't have their seats down pat to work for the larger percentage of the driving public, especially in a vehicle series that has been in production for decades.
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Thanks Rdavidson , the seat being higher up now , seems to make a world of difference so far. :D
I'll see how I feel in a week. Loving the car once again!
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With the manual seats you lift the lever (i think the second one) and then sit up and the seat rises. I had a 3 series wagon w / sports seats, sports suspension and manual transmission. I loved it but eventually sold it because the stiffness of everything was murder on my knee and back. The non-sports models are much more forgiving and are plenty sporty on the handling.
The Volvo s40 will be severely disappointing performance-wise after the BMW - and ultimately is not going likely to save you anything on ownership costs.
My best advice if you plan to keep that BMW & having owned 5 BMW's in the last 10 years is that buying an extended warranty is money well spent. 3 of those 5 BMW's have had them & the saved service costs more than paid for them. In the most recent case my '08 540it needed a whole new transmission and transfer case less than 6 mo's after buying it (not even hit 100K miles). That was close to a $10K job - and even w/ the warranty I still ended up $1K out of pocket.
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I had two BMW's to date. 97 M3 that I picked up with 35K miles and drove to 215K. I did the scheduled Inspections with BMW but did the oil and brakes myself. When the radiator went at 120k i bought a refurbished online and it was the easiest radiator I ever did. Two clips take out the radiator and disconnect and reconnect the hose. It was an automatic tranny four door. When I sold her the drive train was pulling as good as when it finally broke in at 50K. I would replace the spark plugs and wires at a more agressive schedule than the book. The second was a 06 330 sport sedan with the cold weather package. BMW made it harder to work on but I was still able to do everything but left the Inspection services to BMW. The key to working on BMW's is having 7 mm wrenches and sockets in your tool kit. They don't come in a standard metric kit. Hated the runflates and put a spare in the truck and ran Michelin Pilot Sports. It just forced me to use a roof rack on vacations and a smaller sub in the trunk. The 06 beat an F16 till takeoff and cornered like a jackrabbit. The 06 was just retired at 230K. I'm looking at a Mini Cooper S. My GM, VW, and Fords gave me more headaches than any BMW ever did. Just my take on things.
Best of luck to you.
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I'll bet runflat tires are heavier than the standard type and that's the last place you want surplus weight - it wrecks the unsprung weight ratio which spoils the ride and worsens the adhesion over surfaces that are not perfectly flat, i.e., just about everywhere. The difference in cost would probably exceed the tow price, if it came to that.
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2012/05/run-flat-tires-why-you-should-or-shouldnt-buy-them.html
Unsprung weight ratio:
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/sprung-c.htm
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Interesting articles Russel, thanks.
So the only car I am thinking about upgrading to is another BMW , a newer model, 2009 5 series. It also has less miles. I am thinking that it may be more comfy for long stretches, have better comfort for passengers .
I will be driving for Lyft this summer , and anticipate being couped up in my car for long periods .
While I love my 3 xi wagon , the seats are very buckety, and I fear them being very warm with no AC (, I like the windows down and sweating sometimes) and to make me feel too confined .
How much if any performance will I lose if any going to the 5 series? Or will the 5 be an upgrade in the driving experience ?
I am wondering if it being a heavier car if it feel better on the potholes??
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=117572)
http://mobile.dealercarsearch.com/VehicleDetail.aspx?InventoryId=5714488&Guid=9cdc0049-c19c-455f-902a-26a20478801b
Any real disadvantage getting the 5 series? I will try to get this price down about $1,000 as it says it's overpriced by about $1,500 . I figure my payments will go from $153 in paying now to about $225-240.
My car is a 2006 with 85,000 miles, this a 2009 with only 57,000 miles.
Appreciate your thoughts , opinions .
I will of course test drive the 5 series this week to see if I feel more comfy, spacious .
Thanks!!
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I just drove the 528xi, and man was I dissappointed!!
The steering felt like power steering of a Caddy.
Is there a different steering system in the 5 series?
Acceleration and braking were also different, not exciting at all.
I felt like I was driving a Camry. So, I plan to keep my 3 series as the fun factor is off the charts!
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There's a lot to be said for smaller, lighter, more maneuverable cars. I personally prefer vehicles that fit like a glove, not an oven mitt. :lol:
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The five series has seemed kind of blah to me. I had a 335is convertible which was fun and now I have the 650i convertible with V8 twin turbo, also fun!
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Yup. More weight just means you need that much more power and torque than a smaller vehicle, to get a similar fun factor.
It's called "Power to Weight ratio" :thumb:
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I personally prefer vehicles that fit like a glove, not an oven mitt.
You must have secretly borrowed our 2007 Hyundai Entourage to offer such a deliberate and accurate summary of how it "delivers" the driving experience!
The little BMW Ti I owned back in the 90's was often quoted to be a Miata hatchback. It was a ton of fun to wring out on the road. This from a guy who at the time owned several sportbikes!
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Well, maybe I don't want surgical glove-like fit. The smallest car I could semi-comfortably fit in is probably a Honda S2000. Getting out might be a chore....which has more to do with the ride height. Try and get in and out of an Acura NSX. I believe it has the lowest center of gravity of any production car ever built, even today. Great ergonomics inside the car, but getting in and out takes very good mobility, especially if you're around 6' tall or taller.
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I went from a 2003 325xit to a 2008 535xit (i.e. wagon's both) last year. Yes, the steering and suspension is much softer vs 3 series and overall the car is much less "sporty". Overall driving feel is much more anesthetic - fit and finish also seem a step back. I just couldn't see myself in a 2008 or similar 328xit : just felt too cramped / dark inside even though the driving feel was much more sporty. Ultimately my needs changed and I was willing to give up the sportiness of the 3 series for something with a larger / airier cabin with a lot more usable hauling space. The 535xit w/ it's 300hp twin turbo is no slouch though - a LOT faster than my old 325. It might not corner as well, but it's definitely quick.
Ultimately I think the 535xit makes a very good Uber / Lyft vehicle for CUSTOMERS (comfort / space / etc), though from the driving experience perhaps less so for the driver. The easy / softer ride and airier / brighter cabin is nice for rush hour / stop & go traffic - of which there is a lot of in my DC area. Maybe I'll go back to a 3 series wagon in the future as the cabin + power get better in the later models, but for now this one suits my needs.
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The five series has seemed kind of blah to me. I had a 335is convertible which was fun and now I have the 650i convertible with V8 twin turbo, also fun!
You need to move up the 5 series line for it to exhibit any real driving fun.
Given its heavy weight, the only way to get it going is with one the larger engine options.
Before getting my M3, I almost bought a used M5. Not only was that a great car to drive, the V10 engine was something special to listen to.
George
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You need to move up the 5 series line for it to exhibit any real driving fun.
Given its heavy weight, the only way to get it going is with one the larger engine options.
Before getting my M3, I almost bought a used M5. Not only was that a great car to drive, the V10 engine was something special to listen to.
George
Absolutely true! I drove a base 325 rental car a few months ago and hated it, a very disappointing car in both fun factor and comfort. Not too impressed with the base level 5's either, but the 545, 550 and the diesel are all very nice. I've had a couple M3's, M5, and a 540i-6. Being a big guy, the 5's just fit me better, and are much more comfortable. If they re-made the E39 540i-6 today I'd buy one in a heartbeat. It was the best car I've ever owned.
As a Lyft fare, if you put 2 of us in the back of a 3 series, I'd probably choose to decline.
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Time for an update... This BMW is awesome!!!!!! :thumb: :D :D :thumb:
I am very short at 5'3" , so I have all the room I need. Yes it feels a bit confining being in my first bucket seat ever, and getting into and out of a low to the ground vehicle.
This car is flat out fun to drive!!exciting , grips the road like glue, fast enough for me !, any bigger engine for me and I'd be scared . The braking is sick! This car drives like a Porshe!
Plenty of room for my Lyft passengers in the back. I have had three huge guys in full costume, who said they were perfectly comfy. All my clients love the car
Time for an update... This BMW is awesome!!!!!! :thumb: :D :D :thumb:
I am very short at 5'3" , so I have all the room I need. Yes it feels a bit confining being in my first bucket seat ever, and getting into and out of a low to the ground vehicle.
Huge sun roof and moon roof keep the car bright and makes it feel bigger, not so closed in.
I love the i drive as its way easy to change the radio stations. I still have a ton to learn.
The steering is tight , ie. You need some muscle to steer, it can feel like steering through quicksand, when at low speeds, like pulling out of parking spots, BUT, hot damn you will feel this car under your steering wheel!!!
The stereo sound is the best I have ever heard in a car, 14 speakers in this car.
The general feel of this car when I buckle in , is that I'm in the cockpit of an F14. so well designed!!!
This car is thrilling to drive !!
22 times on the top ten from car and driver from 1992-2012, and I assume the past three years as well.
Bravo BMW!!!!
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I bought a 2011 black loaded 335x drive with M package. Bought it used with 6k miles, from the only BMW owned dealership in USA. Manhattan BMW. Absolutely love the car like no other i'vee ever owned. I got a great working relationship with a BMW certified master mechanic ( thanx to Gopher ) to keep it purring like a kitten at about 1/3 the usual maintenance cost.
Although the car is rated at 300hp/300lbs torque. The hp rating is at the crank so really only puts out around 250s to 260s range ( at the wheel ) . I wanted a sleeper/M3 killa so I upgraded to a corsa exhaust, VRSF intercooler, VRSF downpipe, K1 coilover suspension, UUC sway bars, and had it pro tuning freaks dial it all in with a cobb. I now dyno 336hp to the wheel ( almost 400hp at the crank) and 408 lbs of torque. It's ridiculous overkill for the street, and can easily get me in trouble. You only live once :thumb:
I just drove a 2014 328 loaner and not sure about you guys but I absolutely hated the VERY loose and new electronic assisted steering. Yuck, who ever thought of this was obviously not catering to a driving enthusiast.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118750)
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Did it require an upgrade to the suspension to deal with the increase in rear wheel horse power?
Scotty
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I just bought a 2007 m6 convertible with smgiii with under 40,000 miles. Looks new inside and out.
TomS, I bought it from Dream Makers. Would have preferred to buy it from Bill Zilke at Sweetcars, but he didn't have anything near the price.
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I just bought a 2007 m6 convertible with smgiii with under 40,000 miles. Looks new inside and out.
TomS, I bought it from Dream Makers. Would have preferred to buy it from Bill Zilke at Sweetcars, but he didn't have anything near the price.
Sweeeeeeet! Dream Makers has a lot of nice rolling stock too, and is certainly giving Sweetcars a bit of competition in the ultra high end. Who'd think you'd find these cars in Ft. Wayne :scratch:
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I agree, but I can't afford the high end much less the $2.2mil Ultra high end :?
They are nice to look at :green:
Sent you a PM
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Did it require an upgrade to the suspension to deal with the increase in rear wheel horse power?
Scotty
My car is a Xdrive. On a rear wheel drive BMW you'll probably need a limited slip differential (LSD), otherwise you will be spinning on take off. Suspension wise I found the stock suspension way too bouncy. I can understand since most roads ( esp after some of our winters) are awful and the avg buyer would not appreciate the stiffer/bumpier ride. But I certainly do.
Forgot to mention the VRSF charge pipe ugrade. Once your turbo boost goes up the stock charge pipe will get blown right off, happened to me once. Guy just goes into limp mode, never fun.
By the time the car warms up, where I can get on it, i'm usually at my destination. Go figure.
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Nice Rob! Luv it.
My buddy has a somewhat suped up 2008 335, that he initially went to Germany to pick up. So the first 500 or more miles were put on it on the Autobahn. I don't know what he has done to it but it's fun to go get lunch in.
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I just bought a 2007 m6 convertible with smgiii with under 40,000 miles. Looks new inside and out.
TomS, I bought it from Dream Makers. Would have preferred to buy it from Bill Zilke at Sweetcars, but he didn't have anything near the price.
Congrats Marbles!
M series cars are such incredible pieces of machinery.
With the weather finally starting to change, it's time for M3 to come out of hibernation.
George
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I bought a 2011 black loaded 335x drive with M package. Bought it used with 6k miles, from the only BMW owned dealership in USA. Manhattan BMW. Absolutely love the car like no other i'vee ever owned. I got a great working relationship with a BMW certified master mechanic ( thanx to Gopher ) to keep it purring like a kitten at about 1/3 the usual maintenance cost.
Although the car is rated at 300hp/300lbs torque. The hp rating is at the crank so really only puts out around 250s to 260s range ( at the wheel ) . I wanted a sleeper/M3 killa so I upgraded to a corsa exhaust, VRSF intercooler, VRSF downpipe, K1 coilover suspension, UUC sway bars, and had it pro tuning freaks dial it all in with a cobb. I now dyno 336hp to the wheel ( almost 400hp at the crank) and 408 lbs of torque. It's ridiculous overkill for the street, and can easily get me in trouble. You only live once :thumb:
I just drove a 2014 328 loaner and not sure about you guys but I absolutely hated the VERY loose and new electronic assisted steering. Yuck, who ever thought of this was obviously not catering to a driving enthusiast.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=118750)
Nice ride Berto.
I did many of the same changes to my 2011 335 with Xdrive while I still owned it. Getiting a M3 was still a huge upgrade and I am so glad I bought one.
As for the newer 3 Series...I agree with your assessment. They aren't the same as our e90's. That said, my friend's 2014 3 series diesel is still a nice car and great to drive and ride in.
George
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Nice car Berto! I lease a 2013 328i x drive, and my previous car was a 2011 of the same model. The 2011 was way tighter than my current car, handled better, and no squeaks or rattles even after 3 years of hard driving. The only thing I like better about my current one is the cup holders, and the turbo 4 does get a bit better gas mileage. I have nagging squeaks from my dash, and a loud rattle that was due to something loose in the passenger airbag compartment. Pretty disappointing car vs. the 2011. This is very likely my last 3 series.
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I'm looking at switching to a Mercedes ML 350 ,2008. 18,000 less miles less then my BMW,
at 70,000. Pot holes and brick roads killing me, and the bucket seats not great for 9 hours of city driving a day. Any experience with this SUV?
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Happy ending to my saga. Sort of ... I lost my entire trade in money. Lessons learned , but got the vehicle of my dreams!! :thumb: :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=120107)
The color is sick looking. It changes colors , this is at sunrise.
2010 with 30,000 miles. Loaded with an awesome 3d Navagation , insane stereo, all weather package.
It's beautiful inside and out.
Better drive for me . Seats way better!, firm but not nearly as buckety .
Steering is way easier , no more quicksand feel.
Loving it !!!!!!
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A couple of questions : how many CDs can the storage hold?
I tried multiple ways to run spotify from my phone, can't get it sync.?
I have Bluetooth , does that mean I should be able to stream Spotify ?
Thanks !
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One of the biggest mistakes of my life !!!
Complete fucking money pit !! !!!!!
Just spent $1200 for fucking spark plugs!!
Says I need new brake pads after 7 thousand miles!!! Should last 15-30 thousand!
Now my car is completely fucked!! I’m two blocks from my house , going down a hill and the car starts slowing down , my foot is not on the brake, like the engine is completely down shifting!!! The car should accelerate down hill !!
Om fucking G-d !!! I am pretty sure this has zero to do with the brake pads , as they felt perfect, not mushy.
I’m sure this is going to be a few grand that I can not afford.
I got the car with under 30k
Now only has 60 k but some breaks by weekly it seems.
This car is fucking my life up !!!
I’m not sure I can drive it three miles to avoid a $200 tow
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you really need to find yourself a good independent mechanic that knows BMW's
There is nothing special about doing plugs, and breaks are not that bad either, but then again I have had the cylinder head off my M3.
For parts you can get a good deal from FCPeuro.com they even warranty everything they sell for life.
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you really need to find yourself a good independent mechanic that knows BMW's
Second that.
In addition, I recommend finding a good local BMW sales person (ask around) and leasing a BMW 3 series instead of buying.
BMW usually has a great lease program on its 3 series which can usually become even cheaper when you have a good sales person. It's becoming rarer to find car companies that offer free full maintenance for the lease period (which BMW does), during which period full warranty applies of course... :thumb:
I just returned a 3 series lease and leased another 3 series :green:
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You might check with someone in your regional, link- BMWCCA (https://www.bmwcca.org/), to find a good local mechanic. It's been many years since I was a member, but the folks were always a really nice fun group with lots of marque knowledge. Same with SCCA folks.
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Second that.
In addition, I recommend finding a good local BMW sales person (ask around) and leasing a BMW 3 series instead of buying.
BMW usually has a great lease program on its 3 series which can usually become even cheaper when you have a good sales person. It's becoming rarer to find car companies that offer free full maintenance for the lease period (which BMW does), during which period full warranty applies of course... :thumb:
I just returned a 3 series lease and leased another 3 series :green:
I really have a tough time with leasing...you never own anything and are stuck in payments forever. I did lease my Saab 9-3 Viggen, but I bought it after the lease. Otherwise, I've been buying everything and having years without a payment.
$1,200 for spark plugs seems like it can't be true.
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$1,200 for spark plugs seems like it can't be true.
It probably includes replacing the individual ignition coils located at each spark plug.
It may or not be necessary, and even if only one of them is bad, dealers generally like to replace them all at the same time for maximum reliability (and maximum profitability).
Steve
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Second that.
In addition, I recommend finding a good local BMW sales person (ask around) and leasing a BMW 3 series instead of buying.
BMW usually has a great lease program on its 3 series which can usually become even cheaper when you have a good sales person. It's becoming rarer to find car companies that offer free full maintenance for the lease period (which BMW does), during which period full warranty applies of course... :thumb:
I just returned a 3 series lease and leased another 3 series :green:
I follow leasehackr.com more than audiocircle. Yes great deals on BMW leases can be had.
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If you live close to Toledo my brother can fix it, he was a certified BMW mechanic for year and years and now fixes them part time because the full time job at the dealer really sucked. He used to work in Chicago so probably knows mechanics there too.
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Sorry to hear of your plight. My 2011 e93 M package was $17.4k at 39k miles. I have invested under 3k ($300 spark plugs, tires, shocks, fuel sensor) and runs like a dream after 1 year and 10k miles. The previous owner had not done regular maintenance, but kept the car looking nice.
One caveat, my mechanic turned me onto this model, I found the car on Craigslist.
I haven't gone to a dealer for over a decade, and that was just for a couple of years after relocating. Otherwise I have always used a private mechanic.
Dealerships have a lot of overhead and make most of their money in the shop. Spend some quality time and research for an honest mechanic.
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thanks guys. Car riding perfect today.
I must have hit the stick shift to manual shifting yesterday. I did check this immediately and confirmed it was in regular drive. it might have taken a bit more time to go back into regular drive. So crises averted .
Now I need to take it back to Pep Boys to see why my car is saying that it needs to brake pads after only 7 thousand miles. Hope its just a sensor,brakes feel fine.
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thanks guys. Car riding perfect today.
I must have hit the stick shift to manual shifting yesterday. I did check this immediately and confirmed it was in regular drive. it might have taken a bit more time to go back into regular drive. So crises averted .
Now I need to take it back to Pep Boys to see why my car is saying that it needs to brake pads after only 7 thousand miles. Hope its just a sensor,brakes feel fine.
Silly question...did they reset the on board computer properly when the pads were changed?
This happened to me and turned out to be a non-event when I was leasing a 2011 335xi.
George
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It was Pep Boys , so probably not .
I’ll take it to them next week .
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My daughter drives the hell out of her 2007 328xi wagon with (knocking on wood) very little trouble. Just turned 200k on it. Most of her issues are very common with the series, ie: rear windows quit, moon roof quit. With the help of youtube, I've been able to fix those.
Gotta say though, she does mostly highway miles. Doesn't seem like a vehicle for heavy city driving.
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It was Pep Boys , so probably not .
I’ll take it to them next week .
That's like taking a computer to get it repaired by the Geek Squad -- you just don't do it unless you prefer inexperienced personnel to screw it up and overcharge you.
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You don't need pads yet. I just had mine in for scheduled check up and they changed the brake fluid but I have 30,000 miles on those brake pads.
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I haven’t been working Uber for four months , but I Uber in the summer pretty hard . I know that beats the shit out of it . I drive pretty mellow when I’m driving for me .
I had issues when I just got it , all wheel drive not right , so cruise control won’t work . With 20k miles on it.
Those issues worked themselves out . The rubber door seal is broken and and hanging loose, now rubber is twisted and can not be shoved back in track . Cup holder is broken but still functions.
Bmw said it wanted between $650 -850 to put a new battery in !!
Did not go through them obviously!!
I’m not even sure how to put the alarm on, but I lock the doors anyway .
It just seems like my warning lights , light up like a pinball machine .
Some rear ended me , the air bags never came out, light hit, but the seat belt lights are on ever since. All mechanics said the could not turn it off. No way I’m going to BMW !!!!!
My AC is a fucking joke !!! Even since I just got it!! Comes out hot for first 3o seconds , Uber passengers are yelling at me !!! The back ac vents are a fucking joke, no real air flows back there. I’ve tested it . Air comes out barely cool , does not cool car on very hot days. I need to check Freon. Does Auto Zone do this ??
I like the seats !! Very good support!!
I’d say brakes are fantastic !!!! But wear out waaay to fast.
Acceleration is flawless!! This car is always in the right gear!!!
It’s fun to drive!!
Stereo kicks ass!!! I can burn 250 cds to hard drive.
No blue tooth connect without wires to phone !!
Steering is like quick sand on 2010 model . I mean heavy , like my shoulders hurt.
I’m getting 16 mpg . That’s horrid!!!! My wife’s big Forester gets at least 22!
I just expected a lot more quality ! Decals rubbing off on buttons I touch a lot.
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you should have just bought a Kia or Hyundia and been done with it ....
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Time can limit this but I'd suggest that if you can do some research, maybe with a BMW club, or just on specific issues like the brake pads you're having doubts about now, it puts you in control.
Stirman, I don't know how easy it is to do a visual check on BMW brake pads but I'd guess that if you take a wheel off you should see the reality immediately. As far as replacing them, you will probably do much better to find an aftermarket product. Just as an example, I own a Subaru WRX. The first time I took it to the Subaru agent to change the pads and rotors as recommended, it cost me $600 for the front pair only. They'd worn out in less than 40,000 miles. Second time around I bought high quality after-market items, fitted them myself and did discs and pads front and back for $300. The after-market discs have now been on the car for another 90,000 miles and are showing no sign of wear.
I suspect that some of the skills that were once part of being a mechanic have been lost with computerized analysis, partly because some faults can only be diagnosed by computer, partly because computer analysis often fails to name a fault and partly because mechanics can't aren't in a position to figure out what a computer can't, if that makes sense.
Yes, sounds as though you might need some more gas in your air-con but at least you can take the car to a non-BMW agent to have that sorted.
Is it clear what the warning lights are telling you?
Is the fan that operates to circulate air through the car when the air-con is on, working? If it isn't the air-con probably won't turn on at all.
You might be better off going to an auto-electrician to see if they can sort out some faults like the seat belt light and the warning lights.
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Good stuff costs money to maintain, there is no way around it.
That said, a trustworthy independent mech is gold. I'd join a few marque specific forums and look for regional insights about who the local "go to guys" are.
Assuming you replaced all 6 plugs, coils and wires, I could see the $ you spent. If I went to a dealer for my CLK for the same (16 plugs, 8 coils, 16 wires) it would likely run 2K. I can buy the parts online and have a local mech do it for half that.
Good luck with the BMW, I have fond memories of my 1995 318Ti!
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Good stuff costs money to maintain, there is no way around it.
I guess that depends on your definition of "good stuff". I drive a car to get me from one place to another, preferably as inexpensively as possible with a moderate degree of comfort. The original question was "Older BMW 3 series /mistake? /X3 suv?" Depends on what you are looking for. It would certainly be a mistake for me--- as a Honda/Toyota driver. Hondas and Toyotas certainly don't fit the "good stuff cost money to maintain". Most of why I consider them "good stuff" is because they don't cost a lot of money to maintain.
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^ +1 for that.
Part of the joy of vehicle ownership, to me, is that the vehicle is reliable and/or easy and inexpensive to maintain. German luxury vehicles generally don't fall into the category of easy and inexpensive to maintain, so I stay away from them. This isn't a bash on German cars or people who buy them. I'm simply saying that one needs to understand what they're getting into and account for it as part of the cost of ownership. For some, this cost isn't a big deal and/or they know how to fix things themselves and/or are friends with a good mechanic.
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My daily driver (2009 Ford Fusion) works great as a reliable, comfortable enough vehicle to get me back and forth to the train station, ferry the kids, get groceries etc. I would say for that it is good.
It's not a german luxury car though.
The OP was sharing about his ownership experience, and I sought to do the same for my toy car/garage queen. I bought the 2005 CLK this year, and expect to put $ in it every year in spite of driving it only about 4K miles per year.
Of the 2, I darn well know that the CLK will cost me more each year for maintenance. Anyone who buys a used BMW/Mercedes/Audi should make that part of their buying decision.
I had a series of Honda Accords (6!) so I know exactly what you mean about reliable, affordable Japanese cars. I enjoyed mine for many years - the Accord I sold to buy the Fusion was 14 at the time.
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If you are an Uber driver I would get a Toyota hybrid. My first gen Prius battery gave out at 200k, the battery swap was worth more than the entire vehicle. My Landcruiser has 200k and runs great. Just replacing the usual stuff now. I had an Acura Integra that lasted 214k, found out later it was a redundant heat sensor that made it quit periodically. Otherwise it was in fantastic shape.
Audi and VW cars have not fared so well for me. Honda Odyssey bought new was great, a second hand one was a money pit. If you can find a first generation Mercury Villager that is clean it will run freaking forever.
You are doing rough miles so find a comfortable car that has a warranty and gets incredible gas mileage!
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If you are an Uber driver I would get a Toyota hybrid. My first gen Prius battery gave out at 200k, the battery swap was worth more than the entire vehicle. My Landcruiser has 200k and runs great. Just replacing the usual stuff now. I had an Acura Integra that lasted 214k, found out later it was a redundant heat sensor that made it quit periodically. Otherwise it was in fantastic shape.
Audi and VW cars have not fared so well for me. Honda Odyssey bought new was great, a second hand one was a money pit. If you can find a first generation Mercury Villager that is clean it will run freaking forever.
You are doing rough miles so find a comfortable car that has a warranty and gets incredible gas mileage!
My thoughts exactly. Using the bmw as a commercial vehicle makes no sense to me.
I owned a Mercury Villager 10+ years ago. It surprised me with how nice a vehicle it was. Nice, quiet ride, pretty much trouble free for the couple years I drove it. Getting one now though? A little long in the tooth.
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I have a 2006 E90 and a 2015 M235.
No way does the E90 go to a dealership, example: it refused to shift into sports mode. The forums pointed to wires rubbing next to the gearshift over time (10 years) and shorting out, it still functioned in normal mode but refused to engage sports mode or manual shift. The dealership would replace the complete shifter mechanism, over a grand in costs, my local guy did it (re-spliced the broken wires) for $150. It also doesn't go to Pep Boys: the 2006 E90 was the first generation that started to code components into the ECU, I've had to replace the battery once and it needs coding into the ECU, to prolong its life (allegedly), in order for optimum charging of the new battery. I'm sure Pep Boys don't do this?
You need to find a local reliable, honest, knowledgeable and trustworthy guy who's intimate with BMW's - he'll keep it going at the lowest cost.
I have a guy in Pittsburgh - not sure where you're located, but if it helps you can PM me for his contact info. If you're elsewhere you really need to reach out here or the BMW forums...
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I owned a Mercury Villager 10+ years ago. It surprised me with how nice a vehicle it was. Nice, quiet ride, pretty much trouble free for the couple years I drove it. Getting one now though? A little long in the tooth.
Very long in the tooth for sure, but they are a steal for an Uber. Trick out the interior to whatever you like, make it eclectic (memorable but not tacky) Plus, you can do all the maintenance yourself. Saving up for just-off lease 2018 hybrid in 2020. I am sure there are other strange gems out there that you could take advantage, also.
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Off topic, but Uber requires their "fleet" to be no older than a few years. Can't remember the exact number. That's why you don't see complete jalopies working for Uber or Lyft.
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Good stuff costs money to maintain, there is no way around it.
Spare parts are something of a racket. My local dealer quoted me $1100 for a centre diff for a Subaru but I bought a genuine one, new, online for $300 from outside this country.
Many of the parts used in luxury cars are the same parts used in "lesser" vehicles. There's a sensor used for inlet airflow monitoring in Subarus that costs $300 from a Subaru agent. The same sensor was used in Porsches of the same age and costs $1200. I managed to buy a couple of these sensors new, boxed for $120 each from a source who sells a wide range of parts at real prices. While there are many rip-off non genuine parts suppliers abounding on ebay and elsewhere online, if you're careful and check the details, it's often possible to pick up genuine spares for something closer to their real value.
It's pretty clear that the makers of expensive cars get away with selling parts at way more than they're actually worth because they can kid customers into thinking that their very special expensive car deserves the best. They would like you to think that the fact that the parts cost a heap must mean they're very special quality, when they're really just ordinary spare parts :roll:
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Spare parts are something of a racket. My local dealer quoted me $1100 for a centre diff for a Subaru but I bought a genuine one, new, online for $300 from outside this country.
Many of the parts used in luxury cars are the same parts used in "lesser" vehicles. There's a sensor used for inlet airflow monitoring in Subarus that costs $300 from a Subaru agent. The same sensor was used in Porsches of the same age and costs $1200. I managed to buy a couple of these sensors new, boxed for $120 each from a source who sells a wide range of parts at real prices. While there are many rip-off non genuine parts suppliers abounding on ebay and elsewhere online, if you're careful and check the details, it's often possible to pick up genuine spares for something closer to their real value.
It's pretty clear that the makers of expensive cars get away with selling parts at way more than they're actually worth because they can kid customers into thinking that their very special expensive car deserves the best. They would like you to think that the fact that the parts cost a heap must mean they're very special quality, when they're really just ordinary spare parts :roll:
You have to watch these, though. For my Saab, the AC was an issue (who needs good AC in Sweden? :D). The mechanic I had tried to use a knock-off, and could not install it. We had to buy the official one, which of course was way more expensive. But the mechanic could install it.
I used to all the work on my cars, even to installing new springs and wheel bearings on my Jeep (aka "Heep"). But now I don't have the time or capability to do this. Plus, even my Saab had a lot of room under the hood. Modern cars have zero room under there; it's difficult to change a freaking bulb let alone do maintenance.
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Off topic, but Uber requires their "fleet" to be no older than a few years. Can't remember the exact number. That's why you don't see complete jalopies working for Uber or Lyft.
Yep. Have used Uber on many occasions and cars have always been fairly new and tidy. If you're lucky, you'll even get an entertaining driver.....not always though.
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In Pa. , Uber car must be 2010, which I think will take me to 2020.
I wanted a car that was fun to drive.
Does Prius make an all wheel drive? My BMW is AWD.
I need it in the very hilly Burg. Think San Francisco hilly.
I only drive in the summer mostly.
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stlrman - After driving the same vehicle for 40 years (77 Jeep Wagoneer) my friends think I should get a new car. I'm thinking the new 2019 Sabaru Crosstrek Hybrid (plug-in) would be perfect, looks like fun and it is AWD. I'm also looking for someone to buy one before me so I picked you.
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Stir, in what part of town do you live? I have an excellent, very fair, mechanic who works on everything. I’ve had great work from them for 20+ years. They are in Blawnox.
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In Pa. , Uber car must be 2010, which I think will take me to 2020.
I wanted a car that was fun to drive.
Does Prius make an all wheel drive? My BMW is AWD.
I need it in the very hilly Burg. Think San Francisco hilly.
I only drive in the summer mostly.
I was born in and lived in Pittsburgh. None of my family had AWD. I could see the desire for AWD in the winter, but if you drive mainly in the summer, I can't see the need.
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you should have just bought a Kia or Hyundia and been done with it ....
OP said he was looking for something that was fun to drive...so that excludes almost everything branded out of Asia and the US, and everything from Kia and Hyundai. Great value for money and reliability, but definitely not fun to drive. I had my first BMW in the 80's, and apart from a couple of Audi's haven't found a brand that I can afford that is as much fun to drive with a degree of comfort, I wish I could. The help he needs is to find a good mechanic that can help him out...
There are 3 good BMW mechanics in Pittsburgh that I know of: one in Cranberry, North Hills and Bloomfield area - I've given him the contact details for the North Hills mechanics. Once we get Stirman sorted he'll be back in love with his Beemer again.
The combination of hills and snow in Pittsburgh makes AWD a necessity, no way can you drive in winter without it. If we had less hills you could survive with snow tires and FWD/AWD but the snow/hill combo is a killer...My preference would be to have a RWD BMW and not use it on snow days.
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For fun to drive, great value, reliable and good looking check out the '14 and newer Mazda6.
Cheers,
Scott
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I've come to the general conclusion that if you truly want a fun car, don't use it as your daily driver. Get an old, cheap, beater Subaru to get you thru winter and eaten by road salt. For summer, get a RWD fun car.
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What about some of the Nissan line? Good cars, not great, but the 370 line might be just what you're looking for.
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I've come to the general conclusion that if you truly want a fun car, don't use it as your daily driver. Get an old, cheap, beater Subaru to get you thru winter and eaten by road salt. For summer, get a RWD fun car.
:thumb: :thumb:
Fun Car- 2009 BMW M3
Winter/Family Hauler - 2012 Mazda CX-9
George
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Took my 2010 BMW to one of the preferred BMW shops recommended by a fellow member here.
Guy tell me $2700 . WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to pass inspection. LOl!! I just spent $1400 on spark plugs just a few months ago. That's $4100 in 1 year on a car with 65,000 miles on it. What a fucking joke!!!!!!!!!!! I bought this car with only 29,000 miles on it. and new brake pads for $900 . That's $5,000 of repairs in one year.
I had a Lexus SUV, 2003 with 130,000 miles on it and didn't spend this type of repairs in 8 years owning it.
I don't want to take a huge hit on a trade in on the BMW. Last guy offered me 4k when it was not running good. I owed 9 grand on it. MAYBE I should have just taken the 5 thousand dollar hit and rolled it over into a HONDA suv.
I am beyond disgusted !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I owe 8 grand on this thing. I will finish up going through a financial situation, and see if I can dump this piece of shit.
Fuck ME!!!!!!!!! Probably dropped 8-9 grand in three years on repairs.
I'm not in the BMW bracket to begin with. But I never anticipated this kind of financial fall out.
This is why you shouldn't buy a car impulsively , against your wife's wishes. I have been paying the price since I drove away from the lot with a smile on my face , for 10 miles, when I tested the brakes and there was a horrid shuttering.
Lesson learned. The hard way. Right in the wallet!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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What did he say is wrong?
George
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Seriously?? $1400 for spark plugs? :o Now another $2700 to pass inspection?
Get rid of it. If it runs sell it as is, take your loss, and move on.
Long time ago Jaquars were the cool car. Finnicky, expensive, hard to work on. I had a cousin that had a model E in pieces in his garage for over 30 years. His widow still has it in pieces.
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The best car I ever owned was a 97 M3. I bought her with 32k on her and sold her at 216k. I still regret that day. She pulled like the day I bought her. The radiato,r I replaced cost me $128 plus the clips. I broke the fog lights twice. A dear friend damaged the sun roof with her legs in the air pushing upwards. $268.00. I did the brakes myself and the oil changes. I did 3 inspections. $1k for two of them and $1.5k for one of them.
My 2006 330 was another great car. I hated the run flats. Everything else was awesome.
I would buy another 3 series anytime.
Cheese
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Hey Cheese,!
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=182560)
Yours for $7500 !!
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Took my 2010 BMW to one of the preferred BMW shops recommended by a fellow member here.
Guy tell me $2700 . WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to pass inspection. LOl!! I just spent $1400 on spark plugs just a few months ago. That's $4100 in 1 year on a car with 65,000 miles on it. What a fucking joke!!!!!!!!!!! I bought this car with only 29,000 miles on it. and new brake pads for $900 . That's $5,000 of repairs in one year.
I had a Lexus SUV, 2003 with 130,000 miles on it and didn't spend this type of repairs in 8 years owning it.
I don't want to take a huge hit on a trade in on the BMW. Last guy offered me 4k when it was not running good. I owed 9 grand on it. MAYBE I should have just taken the 5 thousand dollar hit and rolled it over into a HONDA suv.
I am beyond disgusted !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I owe 8 grand on this thing. I will finish up going through a financial situation, and see if I can dump this piece of shit.
Fuck ME!!!!!!!!! Probably dropped 8-9 grand in three years on repairs.
I'm not in the BMW bracket to begin with. But I never anticipated this kind of financial fall out.
This is why you shouldn't buy a car impulsively , against your wife's wishes. I have been paying the price since I drove away from the lot with a smile on my face , for 10 miles, when I tested the brakes and there was a horrid shuttering.
Lesson learned. The hard way. Right in the wallet!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've own a quarter of a million dollars worth of BMWs, and I lived to see them all depreciate to zero. I have spent tons of money in repairs and I have concluded BMWs are not reliable cars and maybe the worst cars on the road as they are problem prone. BMW does not mean Bob Marley and the Wailers, but rather, Bring your Money With you. :lol:
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I had an '02 535IS for about 5 years and loved it.
I've been thinking about another BMW for years and asked my import mechanic what he thought about a used BMW vs Mercedes.And he was emphatic that the BMW's (after '05 or so) were nothing but trouble. He said without question the Mercedes would be a much better car. He said the Mercedes weren't perfect but there was about three or four things you fix once and forget about it. For example- my wife's Mercedes station wagon has air suspension. The airbags will eventually leak and cause the compressors to go bad. Replace w springs and never deal with it again (around $600).
I wish Mercedes would make a bare bones car w no bells and whistles. I'm talking roll up windows, manual seats good old fashion keys, etc.. That would be the best car in the world.
On the other hand, bite the big bullet and get a used Land Cruiser. I've had mine for 15 years and 280,000 miles and it's still going strong. The only thing I've done to it, besides brakes etc... , and that I can remember is replace the radiator. I took it to Colorado (from GA) and back last summer w my family and not a single problem.
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I wish Mercedes would make a bare bones car w no bells and whistles. I'm talking roll up windows, manual seats good old fashion keys, etc.. That would be the best car in the world.
On the other hand, bite the big bullet and get a used Land Cruiser. I've had mine for 15 years and 280,000 miles and it's still going strong. The only thing I've done to it, besides brakes etc... , and that I can remember is replace the radiator. I took it to Colorado (from GA) and back last summer w my family and not a single problem.
Buy one from Mercedes Motoring, restored to factory+ condition, years from 60's to 80's. The W123 and relatives... They last for forever and have craftsmanship not seen since. Hell you can even find a good one used that is close to the condition sometimes that you'd get from MM. They are not perfect, and sometimes needs some repairs, but as they go they're relatively inexpensive and dependable in the right ways. The number one thing is that vacuum systems for door locks sometimes needs fixed.
But yes, Toyotas... hard to go wrong with. New however Honda is destroying them with better options, and high quality. The CR-V is like a space ship compared to this years Rav4 stuck in the past with bad MPG, bad power, bad infotainment, less room, etc. I have an 09 Rav4 with under 100K on it, minimal maintenance. The most expensive thing has been tires but I buy good ones rated for another 60k, and the front struts were leaking. Brakes both done once I think and not expensive. Oil change is cheap through dealer with a package.
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The best car I ever owned was a 97 M3. I bought her with 32k on her and sold her at 216k. I still regret that day. She pulled like the day I bought her. The radiato,r I replaced cost me $128 plus the clips. I broke the fog lights twice. A dear friend damaged the sun roof with her legs in the air pushing upwards. $268.00. I did the brakes myself and the oil changes. I did 3 inspections. $1k for two of them and $1.5k for one of them.
My 2006 330 was another great car. I hated the run flats. Everything else was awesome.
I would buy another 3 series anytime.
Cheese
I have an '03 525i that I bought used in 2007. 110K miles, and only one repair of consequence; the alternator, and it wasn't expensive. EDIT: It's our family's 4th (5th?) used BMW and several have gone over 200K. Maintenance has been surprisingly cheap since our first our 320e with 112K on it, and we ran it until it was all rusted out.
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I have an '03 525i that I bought used in 2007. 110K miles, and only one repair of consequence; the alternator, and it wasn't expensive. EDIT: It's our family's 4th (5th?) used BMW and several have gone over 200K. Maintenance has been surprisingly cheap since our first our 320e with 112K on it, and we ran it until it was all rusted out.
T.B.
Are you doing work on it yourself? If spark plugs were $1400, I can't imagine an alternator being inexpensive. I mean, good grief, I had a valve job done on a Honda for just over $800. But spark plugs??? Stlrman is talking about over $4K spent. I could replace an engine for that kind of money.
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T.B.
Are you doing work on it yourself? If spark plugs were $1400, I can't imagine an alternator being inexpensive. I mean, good grief, I had a valve job done on a Honda for just over $800. But spark plugs??? Stlrman is talking about over $4K spent. I could replace an engine for that kind of money.
Something is way wrong here...I had my local dealer (BMW specialist shop - not dealer) replace my spark plugs (2009 M3 with an 8 cylinder engine) last fall and it was under $400 in total. How can it possibly cost $1400 for a regular 3 series??? :dunno:
George
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Something is way wrong here...I had my local dealer (BMW specialist shop - not dealer) replace my spark plugs (2009 M3 with an 8 cylinder engine) last fall and it was under $400 in total. How can it possibly cost $1400 for a regular 3 series??? :dunno:
George
Makes zero sense. $400 is a lot, but who cares compared to $1400????
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BMW's are wonderful cars with insanely high repair costs, my mechanic advises against any used BMW purchases. I understand they have thrown in a bunch of free service with new ones in the past, not up on what is offered today. Not to be a jerk, but just changed plugs and a high beam on my 3.5L Honda and it couldn't have been easier. To get at the plugs you have to take off a small cover with two clearly marked latches, that's it, and for the bulb you lift off the radiator overflow tank, no tools, it slides up off of a bracket. Why aren't all cars this easy to work on? I view it as outright negligence to sell a car that you have to spend $1400, or even $400, on spark plugs. It's a shame, I love the way BMW's drive, but I won't ever own one.
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I am still wondering if the "spark plug" change actually included all new coils and wires. That could hit $1400 from a dealer.
Back when I owned my 1995 318Ti it lunched its CPU one morning and took out 2 coils with it. $3000 to fix it - in 2003!
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To make us all feel a little better...
You could be spending $21,000 to change the oil on your Bugatti Veyron
https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/bugatti-veyron-oil-change/
George
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owned a '84 325i, '88 535is and '95 R100RT Classic Edition. All great machines - put over 200K each on the cars and over 70K on the bike before I totaled it into an errant pack of crossing wild hogs. These were pretty simple machines to maintain back before the technology got so complicated. My BMW mechanics - who I still see occasionally say stay away from the newer stuff, cars and some of the bikes. I'm over the performance car/bike thing and prefer the utility, simplicity and reliability of my '05 4-cylinder Toyota Highlander. If I wanted a road burner again I'd go Japanese.
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Is this going to be a nightmare with expensive repair costs?
...
Well, Stlrman, it looks like you have your answer from 7 pages back. I suspect that keeping an old BMW hinges on how much work you can do yourself. If you've got to hire out spark plugs, fluid changes, alternators, etc, it's probably a bad deal.
I've got a '93 Dodge Cummins diesel as a third vehicle for hauling and for trips to far West TX. The engine has 250K and is good for another 500-800K. In other words, it will last another 60 years at the 5-6K/year I use it. But if I couldn't do simple things, and some not quite so simple, it would be a money pit.
One last bit of advice. Once the shine is gone from a toy like your BMW, you seldom get it back. You're likely to get rid of it, you just may not know it yet.
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If it's the guy I recommended to Stirman I would trust the quote he's given to pass inspection. He's always gone through the work line by line and explained everything, and kept the parts he replaced if I needed to see for myself.
If you could share what work needs doing it might help some of the guys have an opinion on whether it's worth doing or not?. Each model has it's own weaknesses and, if these are for a known issue, it might be cheaper in the long run to take the hit and have a reliable car. For example: the electric water pump is a weakness in the E90, so I knew it would need replacing but would be good to go once I'd taken care of it. I had a Ford Escape years ago, it spent half of its life at the stealership having warranty work done, I couldn't get rid of it fast enough even though the new owner may have bought a reliable ride with all the issues resolved?
The recommendation the local guy's given to me is to 'stop buying and start leasing', since the E90 was introduced in 2006 they've just become more complex and expensive to repair. In addition most of the major parts are coded in to the ECU, ruling out DIY repairs and forcing owners to use stealerships. My youngest son rear ended someone in the E90 I handed down to him, the adaptive xenon headlights needed replacing - $750 each and the adaptive feature didn't work until the bodyshop took it to the stealership for the replacement lights to be coded in.
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$1500 for headlights? :o
Sorry, I just don't get it. I understand that we have a lot of wealth here at AC, but unless thousands don't register as significant figures to your net worth, that's crazy for something that cost $35 on a basic vehicle. You guys enjoy your BMW's... I'll drive my Camry or Accord, bury it after a quarter million miles, then do it again.
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Yeah , it’s your guy.
It’s not like I have a Ferrari, and need it race ready tuned. I probably could have taken it locally and paid under $200 to pass.
Then he calls me yesterday telling me it will be an additional $1400 to fix the front headlight. My wife and I are furious!!! He did all the work , then tells us it will be $1400 more because the light housing is broken.
If he had told us it was $4100 which was his initial quote of $2700 plus $1400 , I would have said no way , don’t touch it !!
Now we are out $2200 , I got him to cut out a few things , and I have no light for inspection.
This must be a joke to charge someone $4100 for a car that’s not even worth that on a trade in .
I should have told him not to touch it!!!
Now I’m fucked again!!
I’ll give specifics when I’m back in Pittsburgh and pick up the car.
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Wow. Sorry to hear how this has turned out for you. Broken headlight housing?? $3.50 for a tube of epoxy glue.
I really wouldn't put another dime into this thing because you are not likely to keep it. Get it past inspection and sell it. If it won't pass inspection, take your lumps and sell it anyway.
But your pain is a warning to the rest of us. Audiophiles like our toys. And cool cars are appealing. I've actually looked a bit at the new Fiat/Mazda Spider for around $25K. Think I'll just buy a Toyota Highlander.
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I had the headlights replaced by insurance and had a parts breakdown: new adaptive xenons listed at $750 each, so don't know where the $1500 is coming from?
You can pick up a used one from eBay for $250 - $350, then it's going to have to be fitted and coded. Maybe $150?
I gave you my contact number if you need help....I don't mind calling him and helping find a lower cost fix.
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Wow. Sorry to hear how this has turned out for you. Broken headlight housing?? $3.50 for a tube of epoxy glue.
I really wouldn't put another dime into this thing because you are not likely to keep it. Get it past inspection and sell it. If it won't pass inspection, take your lumps and sell it anyway.
But your pain is a warning to the rest of us. Audiophiles like our toys. And cool cars are appealing. I've actually looked a bit at the new Fiat/Mazda Spider for around $25K. Think I'll just buy a Toyota Highlander.
Have you looked at the CR-V? I think it's the best buy this year. It has room galore, amazing gas mileage, and it's very up to date. I haven't looked in the highlander as much, but the Rav4 blows this year compared to the CR-V.
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Have you looked at the CR-V? I think it's the best buy this year. It has room galore, amazing gas mileage, and it's very up to date. I haven't looked in the highlander as much, but the Rav4 blows this year compared to the CR-V.
Actually, the new RAV4 seems like it has leapfrogged the CR-V.
Check out the reviews.
George
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If it isnt a 2019, then I doubt it. The 2018 I have seen seems like a joke. It is hardly more than a face lifted version of my 2009. It is awd without a turbo, so it is slower than ever. CR-V has more room, more engine (turbo), and more mpg... and doesnt have a poorly sized integrated infotainment to fit yesteryears dash.
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I've owned both, and gotten great value from each. The plan was to replace my wife's RAV4 this year, but decided on a Kilimanjaro vacation instead. The Toyota only has about 190K, so I suspect it's good for another year. Don't think I'll be looking BMWs.
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How does my step daughter’s $250 piece of shit car pass with $250 worth of work??!!!
And my BMW needs $4100 !!??? Hahahahaha
Here is the bill, down from $2200 as he didn’t do some work:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=182764)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=182765)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=182766)
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Dude! You should black out your personal info on that receipt. Just a piece of paper over that area would suffice.
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God , please forgive me for my sin of buying this piece of shit BMW!!!
Now my heat is not working !!! I’m sure it’s a 2 thousand dollar fix .
Also , got a recall notice that the heat / ac unit may blow up. To get it fixed at BMW dealership. I wonder if BMW will fix the heat for free ???!!!
Haha , BMW will rape me , I’m sure .
It was making a high pitch rattling noise the past few days .
I’m at my wits end with this car !!!
This is after my $2700 inspection. !!!
I can’t afford to dump this car , still owe a couple of years on it, can’t get shit for a trade in
And I can’t afford to own this vehicle.
I’m exasperated!!!!
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cut your loses and go buy a Honda ......... If it makes you feel any better a buddy of mine had to replace his headlight bucket assembly on his 911...... $2500 !!!
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My daughter has virtually the same car.
It’s been an ugly, Uber expensive mistake from the get-go.
It now sits in disgrace, like some naughty kid, beside the driveway, quietly leaking various fluids, waiting to be towed into oblivion.
It’s been a total disappointment.
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Those marquee brand cars are all expensive mistakes. My bro purchased an used Bimmer with all the gadgets...said it was worth 75K but I got it for 42K with just 24K miles on it. FF a couple of years, according to my sister in law, the car spends more time under the shop roof than on the road. My brother quoted me on some specialized air regulated struts that cost around 6K for all 4 of them. I mean, rip, uber rip. Yesterday he came to pick me up driving his wife's Honda CRV. jajajaja. No Bimmer for sure. :thumb:
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I own an auto repair and body shop. We originally opened in the early 80's specializing on European cars, now we work on everything under the sun. That being said, I haven't been able to recommend any European cars for the last 15 years.
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Thanks for the input gentlemen!!
The average cost for a BMW 328i heater core replacement is between $982 and $1681. Labor costs are estimated between $800 and $1499 while parts are priced at $182. Estimate does not include taxes and fees.
Plus I need $1500 front headlight.
F me !!!
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Thanks for the input gentlemen!!
The average cost for a BMW 328i heater core replacement is between $982 and $1681. Labor costs are estimated between $800 and $1499 while parts are priced at $182. Estimate does not include taxes and fees.
Plus I need $1500 front headlight.
F me !!!
I would cut the loss and take the car to a junkyard. Unless a dealer wants to deal with it which I doubt. Get yourself a reliable Japanese/US made car. You will be in for a pleasant surprise. Much easier on the wallet. Want performance go for one of those hot subies.
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I am NOT going to junk my car because the heater is broken !!
I still owe 6 grand on it !!!
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Do you know that its the heater core?
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No , I don’t . I am assuming it is , as there is nothing coming out of the air vents. Just dead .
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If there is no air coming out at all regardless of temperature, you have a blower issue, not a heater issue. Its most likely the blower motor or the blower motor resistor. If it blows air but doesn't get warm, then you have a heater issue. Even then, I would seriously doubt its the heater core. A failure in the heater core amounts to it springing a leak. Usually heater problems are cause by a component that is not allowing hot antifreeze to go into the heater core. I think the problem is much less than you are fearing.
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author=stlrman link=topic=133237.msg1697879#msg1697879 date=1532472773
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=182766)
Your mechanic is laughing all the way to the bank.
I've had several series 3 BMW's, including 325xi. Now I drive 2003 540i M 6sp, my wife - 330i Sport 6sp. But then again, I work on them myself so it's only cost of parts. Older (pre 2007) BMW's are excellent cars, beautifully engineered. Buy some tools, go on forums, watch DIY youtube, work on your own cars, save your money.
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Only cost $425 for blower including installation.
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So today my back door latch stopped working .
This is not good As I have Uber passengers stuck inside. I can let them out from the outside latch .
I swear !! What next ?
I am getting my headlight fixed through insurance claim . I guess I will ask him to look at the door .
I know my car is taking much Uber abuse . But the latch worked fine yesterday.
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I drive a 1977 Jeep Wagoneer, my friends would like me to get a newer vehicle and think I put too much money into repairs, gas, etc. so I did a 5 year total:
5 year total: fuel, insurance, tags, repairs - $19,521.00
or $325.35 per month
What are you paying a month? Hope it's less, if it's more - why?