[Chris Adams]

I bypassed my binding posts today. Ran the wire direct from the screw terminals on the NC400 board through a hole (with grommet) in the chassis. The binding posts are now just a clamp . Direct contact wire to spade or wire to wire. I've done this before with another amp so I was not worried about having to change it back.

The difference is positive for me.  More of everything with less distortion. I have to say that the Cardas solid, bare copper binding posts are quite good. The other amp I did this mod to had entry level Cardas posts and I noticed more of a difference. Well worth the effort though for the cost of two grommets.

[mr_bill]

What do people use for the clamping mechanism when you don't use binding posts?
I may do this but am lost as to what to use. 

[roscoeiii]

Pics would be great.

[James Romeyn]

What do people use for the clamping mechanism when you don't use binding posts?
I may do this but am lost as to what to use.

I previously liked nylon screws + large nylon wing nuts were ideal.  I have a ton of them if you want I'll mail several.  They require spade or ring terminals.  Only the lugs conduct and nothing else.  Obviously maximum torque with nylon threads is less than metal thread post.       

Now I prefer binding post with large hole for bare tinned wire to bare tinned wire.

I suppose what I'd like best would be a larger nylon post through which one could drill a larger through-hole for bare tinned wires.

I thought it was an audible upgrade direct-coupling the wires even on subs crossed 4th order @ 70 Hz.     

[Chris Adams]

Pics would be great.

At your service. Been out of town and that's why the delay for posting these. I also normally use a two foot long run of Home Depot 6awg wire (don't laugh till you try it) with Vampire gold over copper spades. I decided to make a two foot run of 12awg solid copper 200C transformer wire with no connectors on the wire. So, wire to wire at the amp and wire to binding post at the speakers. The jury is out while I spend some more listening time. Let's just say I'm not in a hurry to change it.

[Chris Adams]

Chris,

Thanks for the pics.  Looks very clean.  Nicely done.  Are the wires that connect the amp to the posts tinned so that they cannot move?  Just wondering about safety.

Thanks.

Phil

Phil,

The wire is DH Labs Silver Sonic T-14. It is silver plated copper. I wrapped the wire around the post and then soldered the end to the portion of wire that it touches when the circle is closed. I used WBT silver content solder. The rest of the wire is bare. Because silver remains conductive when it tarnishes, I didn't tin the entire bare area. This way I hope to make the best contact between the wire attached to the NC400 module and the wire running to the speaker. I'm going to attempt to do the same thing at the speaker binding posts.

[OzarkTom]

Phil,

The wire is DH Labs Silver Sonic T-14. It is silver plated copper. I wrapped the wire around the post and then soldered the end to the portion of wire that it touches when the circle is closed. I used WBT silver content solder. The rest of the wire is bare. Because silver remains conductive when it tarnishes, I didn't tin the entire bare area. This way I hope to make the best contact between the wire attached to the NC400 module and the wire running to the speaker. I'm going to attempt to do the same thing at the speaker binding posts.

Now that is one tweak I have never tried. That should be a good one for sure.

[Phil]

Phil,

The wire is DH Labs Silver Sonic T-14. It is silver plated copper. I wrapped the wire around the post and then soldered the end to the portion of wire that it touches when the circle is closed. I used WBT silver content solder. The rest of the wire is bare. Because silver remains conductive when it tarnishes, I didn't tin the entire bare area. This way I hope to make the best contact between the wire attached to the NC400 module and the wire running to the speaker. I'm going to attempt to do the same thing at the speaker binding posts.

Nice.  Looking forward to your impressions about whether this tweak changes the sound for the better and it you think it worthwhile.

Phil

[Chris Adams]

Thanks. I have done this twice and both times realized an improvement in overall clarity. Obviously how much improvement depends on the systems abilities to begin with. I think it is very worth while since cost is less than a buck for the grommets.

[studley]

I'm waiting for my modules to arrive.  What is the thickest gauge of speaker wire that the terminals on the Ncores will accept?

[mgalusha]

I'm waiting for my modules to arrive.  What is the thickest gauge of speaker wire that the terminals on the Ncores will accept?

2 x 12 if you are careful though you might have to trim a few strands. A single 10G will work if you fork the ends.

[avahifi]

I guess I just don't understand why one would want direct connected (captive) speaker wires and yet insists on IEC plug in sockets for the power cords.  Certainly almost any normal speaker terminals make better contacts than the simple push on removable power cords.

This lack of consistency baffles me.

Frank Van Alstine

[Letitroll98]

I guess I just don't understand why one would want direct connected (captive) speaker wires and yet insists on IEC plug in sockets for the power cords.  Certainly almost any normal speaker terminals make better contacts than the simple push on removable power cords.

This lack of consistency baffles me.

Frank Van Alstine

I think you're correct Frank.  It's been suggested to me that the best option is to pick your favorite power cord and hardwire it into the component.  What I don't understand is why manufacturers won't install fancy power cords on their amps, if only for marketing.  And why not interconnects too?  Perhaps several options, maybe a marriage between cable manufacturers and component manufacturers.  What better marketing tool than "Do away with harmful connections!".  All somewhat beyond the scope of this thread and circle, but yes, why don't Ncore builders hardwire their pick of power cords, it's the perfect opportunity to do so.     

[drubin]

110% agreement with Frank Van Alstine on this one. What sort of gauge could be reasonably connected directly to the Ncore power supplies? In the case of dual mono, you'd need to add some additional wire anyway, but that could be soldered and in any case you'd avoid the imperfect IEC interface.