AudioCircle
Other Stuff => Archived Manufacturer Circles => Solar Hi-fi => Topic started by: KevinW on 30 Aug 2003, 11:12 pm
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The holy grail of energy efficiency in amplifiers is Class D. "normal" solid state and tubes just cannot even come close. My product lineup really needs a digital amp, and I've been working hard with Jena Labs to develop one.
Here's a breadboard version which I just wired up this morning. Note the audiophile quality plank of wood, and aluminum angle bracket.
(http://www.solarhifi.com/images/misc/fusionbreadboard.jpg)
It uses the LC Audio digital modules distributed in the USA by DIY Cable. These little modules are really slick! The size of a credit card, they can do 250 watts into 8 ohms no problem. I've got them running at 125 watts/ch, and they won't draw more than 10 watts each on my power meter, for a 92% efficiency rating.
Oh yeah... I get so excited about efficency, that I forgot to metion the sound. Well it's astoundingly good, to say the least. Very dynamic with outstanding bass control... digital amps are where it's at if you like good bass. Detail and resolution are also extremely good. The soundstage is particularly vivid and deep.
But the sound quality performance that I most care about is the tube-like sound. There's just no comparison between tubes and solid state as far as a warm, lush, musically involving sound. Digital amps have the potential of equaling tubes in this regard, because they are not prone to a particularly viscious kind of harmonic distortion inherent to solid state analog amps. At this early stage, this amp has the beginnings of a good tube amp sound, but with extreme detail and bass control that is commonly lacking from tube amps.
In comparing the sound of this prototype with my ASL Tulip w/ Level 2 mods (a 3.5 SET stereo amp). The digital amp is not quite as musically involving as the Tulip. But the Tulip can literally turn your bones to jelly as you sink into its warm, lush musical presentation... In detail and soundstage ability, the amps are about equal. Regarding the ability to drive regular efficiency speakers, the digital amp kills the Tulip. The Tulip also consumes 70 watts of power, compared to 20 watts on the digital.
In short, the early results are very encouraging, and there are still a lot of tricks up our sleeves. The finished product could be a hit at VSAC :wink:
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Good luck with the amp Kevin.
Is this a good time to offer wish list sort of suggestions?
Keep the cabinet simple (save money and the planet's resources). Doesn't have to look like a boat anchor, but painted black is O.K. Doesn't need LCD displays or power meters.
Keep it honest (let form follow function). Does a power amp need a laser engraved 3/4 inch thick faceplate? Or be 17 inches wide and filled mostly with air just to look impressive?
Also offer a lower wattage version (save cost, size, power, natural resources). The high efficiency speaker folks don't need more than 20 wpc. IMO only offer two sizes, 20 wpc and 200 wpc. That should satisfy 98% of the market. (I tire of people wanting 200 wpc versus 100 wpc when it's only a 3 dB of gain, half again as loud, difference.)
Offer them as monoblocks (for the HT and audio to HT migration). Would also help channel separation.
Keep content value high (perhaps this is more of a need to educate the consumer). As with your speakers, it's not easy to convince consumers why single driver speakers should cost $1,000 each. If the "guts" of a digital amp is a $5 chip, why should it cost ??? A DIYer's recent release of a digital amp to the retail market was accompanied with a statement from him on open forum that his $1,800 amp had $60 in parts, mostly in the gold volume knobs. Now that's a turn-off!
Build in easy servicing (diagnostics port, modular construction, don't over cram components into the cabinet or connecters onto the rear panel). If a power switch is offered, locate it on the front and keep all the plugs in the back. Use an IEC plug for swapping out power cords.
Offer options (package deals, upgrade specials, cabinet damping, replacement feet, isolation pads). But don't upgrade the guts every few months (especially if production lags behind product release).
Post a list of recommended options and speaker match ups.
Have the amp (and all your offerings) professionally reviewed by Richard George (my favorite reviewer).
jeff
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JLM,
Thanks for the suggestions. Now is definitely the time for anyone else to make suggestions, as I will be designing the different levels of amps and pricing them out in the next couple of days.
I will be producing three levels of amps. One very simple amp in the $1-2k range. One significantly improved amp with a vacuum tube input stage in the $2-3k range. And one no holds barred amp in the $4-5k range.
Any opinions on the price range? What would you be willing to pay for?
Power will be in the 100 watt to 250 watt range. With the digital amps, the same modules produce the power, it's only the transformer that makes a difference. So it's not that much cheaper to do a lower powered version.
The amps will use the same chassis, and there will be upgrade options from the lower to the higher levels.
What do people think about an integrated vs. a stereo power amp? Which would be more attractive?
Monoblocks are not necessary at all sonicly, as there is very good separation between channels, and I have learned a few tricks to effectively completely separate the channels. However, some people may want drop-in replacements for their existing monoblocks. How strongly do people feel about monoblocks?
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Break-in on the prototypes above has produced stunning results. The emotional inolvement factor is going way up, as vocals have become smooth and liquid, and with a palpable presence that wasn't there initially. It's starting to sound more SET-like, but with PLENTY of power to spare.
Very encouraging results, especially considering that Jena Labs and I are working on several new features designed to increase the SET-like factor. This could be a winner, even for the die-hard SET lovers.
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Kevin, I am interested in this amp because I want something that is musically involving. :D I think the upgrade option is great, very thoughtful of you.
To answer your questions:
I would want something between $1000 to $1500.
Integrated would be great, but I understand everyone has different needs.
Is this prototype the one that will be about $1000?
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Kevin,
When you say integrated, do you mean analog inputs, with an analog pre section with the amp converting A/D? Or do you mean digital input with digital volume control like the soon to be released Spectron or Tact offerings?
I really like the idea of monoblocks, for if no other reason than modularity, but I guess stereo amps can be modular too especially when the mono's wouldn't be much less expensive to make than the stereos would be likely, since the rest of the parts are $$$.
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Sica,
I am still working out price options... but the level one amp will look very similar to this prototype. In other words, it will not have a tube input stage, but there will be room for an upgrade to tubes later on. There will be several different upgrades to level 2 (or perhaps the "Deuterium" level 8) ), which can be installed in mix-and-match format. The target is to get the base price under $1500, and as close to $1000 and still be able to make money. The level 2 will be in the $3k range, and be able to absolutely destroy the competition. :)
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Kevin, are you using your Solar 1.0 speakers to test this amp?
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I am using the Solar 1.0 speakers primarily because they sound so good, and are so completely transparent and uncolored from the midbass on up.
To test the low bass, I have a pair of Acoustic Reality Tetra's. Remember those? A tall pyramidal speaker, with scanspeak reveletor 6.5" woofer and 9700 tweeter. This is a very high quality representation of a 2-way ported speaker design. The Fusion can really pound out the bass, no matter how much rap or reggae I throw at it.
But the Solar 1.0 just totally slays the Tetra in sound quality. I'm waiting for people to hear how good this speaker really is compared to everything else in the price range. When you hear just how many veils are lifted from the music, the compromise of needing a sub for low bass is just not a big deal. But since most acoustic bass is comprised of harmonics above 60Hz, the Solar 1.0 has the most natural sound when blended with the sub.
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Kevin, this is off topic but you opened the door...
What sub do you recommend with the Solar 1.0's?
jeff
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Kevin, this is off topic but you opened the door...
What sub do you recommend with the Solar 1.0's?
jeff
Any sealed sub will work well, because the transmission line rolls off very smooth. I personally am quite happy with the Adire Daeva. It uses the Tempest 15" driver, and is very tight and musical. Even better it uses a 300 watt class D amp, which is 90% efficient and has very good control of the woofer. Why not go all the way Class D on the main power amp, and the subwoofer amp? :D
The Daeva costs $599. For a little less money, the Rava sounds just as good, but only plays down to 30Hz for $399.
I would not recommend a ported sub at all. Passive radiator subs could be okay, but are not as musical as a sealed sub.
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Kevin,
When you say integrated, do you mean analog inputs, with an analog pre section with the amp converting A/D? Or do you mean digital input with digital volume control like the soon to be released Spectron or Tact offerings?
Thanks for your question, Josh. I'm glad someone brought it up, as this is a very confusing point for many consumers.
It's not very easy to run a Class D amp from a digital signal, because the frequencies of the two formats are radically different. CD players emit roughly 44 kHz, while the LC Audio modules run at 500 kHz. It is possible to do a direct conversion of frequencies entirely in the digital domain, but this produces lots of messy errors and ends up sounding very bad. Even though it seems illogical, it is far better to use a separate DAC to convert to analog and then let the amp module convert back to digital. Modern DAC chips are very sophisticated and sound so good because of the many years of effort to improve their performance.
There's a reason why the big Class D amp manufacturers have been slow in releasing a direct digital connection... it's not easy to make it sound good. In fact, I half-suspect that there's simply an internal DAC in those future offerings. I think the customer will be better served by being able to use their own DAC of choice.
However, I will offer direct digital input when SACD digital input parts are available. This makes sense because SACD samples at 2.8 MHz, which would be fed directly into a capable Class D module. This could sound REALLY GOOD. Don't hold your breath on this one though, as it could be a couple of years before parts are available to even make this possible for any corporation not named "Sony".
In the meantime, the integrated will have 3 or 4 analog inputs and a volume control. Probably a Dact, since anything less wouldn't do the sound justice.
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Oh Yeah!!!
Implemented the first of three major circuit additions to the basic amp module, and I am flat out stunned with the results. Blown away, falling over laughing at how good it sounds. The music is so natural, clear and alive. In fact, it kills my SET now. The emotional impact and involvement are the best I have ever heard, while retaining the picture perfect detail and accuracy of the best SS amps, with plenty of power to spare.
I wish I could say what we did, but this circuit was designed by Jena Labs and myself, and is intellectual property. I really did not expect the simplest of the three circuits to make such a huge difference. This is going to make the base model of the amp represent incredible value for the money. I am really excited by this! I like nothing more than delivering a superior product at a superior price.
Later today, Jena Labs is coming over to try overclocking the modules up to 1Mhz, and we're starting work on the vacuum tube input stage next week.
I'm also working on the price options. The goal is to have the base model be under $1500, with various upgrade options.
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I cannot WAIT to hear this!
B
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I cannot WAIT to hear this!
B
I'm highly interested as well. Any chance we can get a nice looking chassis? Maybe some pics when they're available as well? :D
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A nice looking chassis is what you want?
What do you think of this? :D
(http://www.iagaudio.com/prodimages/chassis01.jpg)
These little beauties are made by IAG Audio (www.iagaudio.com). Highly recommend for DIY too. I used this same chassis to make a TS Grounded Grid preamp several years ago. Very solid and thick machined aluminum. Very nice polish. I'll be having the holes for switches, jacks, etc. laser cut, and the labeling laser engraved. I'll also be replacing the wood sides with some very nice looking bamboo plywood.
(http://www.solarhifi.com/images/products/solarhifi/bamboo/nat_vert_f.jpg)(http://www.solarhifi.com/images/products/solarhifi/bamboo/car_flat_f.jpg)(http://www.solarhifi.com/images/products/solarhifi/bamboo/nat_flat_f.jpg)(http://www.solarhifi.com/images/products/solarhifi/bamboo/car_vert_f.jpg)
The bamboo comes in four flavors, natural and carmelized color, and horizontal and vertical grain. The purchaser can pick the style of the bamboo.
ps. I thought about making the chassis into a semi-dodecahedron shape, just to one-up a certain other Class D amp maker whom we old-timers all know and love. But in the end, I decided that the practicality of a simple rectagon is more important. :P
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A nice looking chassis is what you want?
What do you think of this? :D
Looks pretty good. I'm going to need to see one with the bamboo sides first though. I think darker finishes will end up looking better, but the lighter ones will fit my setup better....unless you make a gloss black version.
ps. I thought about making the chassis into a semi-dodecahedron shape, just to one-up a certain other Class D amp maker whom we old-timers all know and love. But in the end, I decided that the practicality of a simple rectagon is more important. :P
Too funny! :lol:
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Bamboo laminated flooring now is available (like Pergo). You can see flat grain, clear finish at Lowes, etc.
BTW bamboo (or light maple) and natural cherry go incredibly well together!
jeff
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Kevin:
How's your knee after surgery?
Please update your work on the amp!! Are you still shooting for a minimum of 100 wpc?
Please post the size of the Solar 1's.
Seems like the Solar 1's aught to play lower than the 60 Hz you specify since the driver itself is rated lower and the cabinet provides transmission line loading (which extends bass response). I know you don't want to get into futzing with specifications, but could you explain? I'd guess it should be good down to around 35 - 40 Hz (in room). This is an important consideration for the concept of the product to be valid as a single driver, full range speaker. Below 35 - 40 Hz. a powered sub is best IMO to be able to taylor the response to the room and/or listener taste.
I'm a SET/high efficiency speaker fan. Does the pairing of the Solar 1's with the new amp have the dynamic magic I love? Is that where you need a sub, to help with higher spl's in the 35 to 60 Hz range?
(For some reason the Adire site keeps coming up blank on the Daeva page.)
thanks,
jeff
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Kevin:
How's your knee after surgery?
Please update your work on the amp!! Are you still shooting for a minimum of 100 wpc?
My knee is recovering pretty quick, thanks for asking. It's not too painful. Still walking with a slight limp and it should be fully healed in about month. I can't wait to get active again, especially now that the rainy season is almost here.
The amp progress is real, but ya know what? There's a lot of steps and decisions that go into a production quality amp! The first chassis is going out to the laser cutters and then the laser engravers this week. I expect to receive the final parts this week, including the power transformers. Final power depends entirely upon the voltage of the transformer, but it should be between 220 watts to 250 watts into eight ohms. Four ohms is double the power. Because the amp is so efficient, a lower powered amp would only reduce a few dollars off the final price.
The tube stage should be ready by next week, and the finished product is still on target for VSAC.
The question about the Solar 1.0's I'll answer in a new thread.
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This looks to be very promising. Congratulations!
You asked for input regarding pricing, so here goes.
A base price of about $1500 would be terrific for the performance based on your ebullient description, and I appreciate that r&d, and the creation of viable intellectual property deserve rewards. But the realm of digital amplification is heating up rapidly with some heavy hitters participating in the game.
A company like Sony with huge assets and economy of scale has the ability to mass produce a product at far lower costs and selling price. Their latest line of digital units offer so much more at a far lower price, that it makes it extremely difficult for miniscule competitors offering a similar product. Not only does their product include an already highly regarded amplifier circuit rated at 120wpc, but it provides 5 channels worth, a 5 disc SACD, DVD, CD, MP3, and CD-r player, a tuner, and full function remote control.
Obviously, Sony's target is not the audiophile market, yet, and I'm sure your amp is intended exclusively for the discerning audiophile, but Sony and companies like Carver Pro are building a head of steam, and the modders and tweakers are already promoting their ability to elevate the performance of these units to audiophile caliber. Even with the mods, I'd bet that they would still come in well below your initial $1500 price point, and the buyer would be getting everything in one box if it was a Sony.
I'm not trying to say that you are pricing your unit unfairly. Like I said, it sounds like it could be an incredible value for the performance it provides. But to be successful in breaking out and becoming better know and accepted, you may want to consider some type of introductory pricing specials or audition opportunities.
I'd certainly be receptive to the latter. :P
I'd also love the chance to try that new speaker.
In any event, best wishes on the new launch. :D
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Jerry,
Of course it is regretable that there is competition in the digital amplifier market. I would prefer to have a monopoly, but that's not going to stop me. :D
My product uses the absolute highest quality parts from the outset. There are no corners being cut at any point, which is not something that the commercial products you mentioned could boast. Even with mods, I doubt that those products can match this performance, which is astounding to my ears. Especially the Sony with everything in one box, which has an unavoidable cost in terms of sound quality.
There are other things that set my product apart from the competition...
- Vacuum tube input stage to get the absolute best of both worlds (tube and SS)
- Integrated or stereo power amp, custom configurable on order.
- Immersion cryo treated Cardas connectors and tantalum resistors, and Jena Labs ultrawire are standard in all models.
- Many other upgrade options at time of purchase, such as faster clock circuit, Stillpoints ERS cloth, balanced inputs.
- Upgradeable: the basic model and can be upgraded to the tube model at a later date.
- Artistic and beautiful looking chassis.
And I also offer something that nobody else currently does in the audio world... an environmental impact guarantee. I calculate the lifecycle impacts of every component in my products, and what cannot be minimized at the beginning is offset through purchases of green products (e.g. biodiesel to displace the fossil fuels burned during shipping). For those who have an eco-conscience, there's no better audio company than mine.
I'm designing my product for those who want an uncompromising amplifier in terms of sound quality, artistic merit, and environmental ethics. And also for those who appreciate a small business with a friendly face.
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This sounds extremely interesting, Kevin.
From what I hear, Zappulse (in it's bare kit form), requires a good match with the preamp because of the low input impedance. Soundwise, I hear that it sounds great in all respects, but is curiously uninvolving compared to SETs etc. This is the general opinion of several people who have built it here in Norway.
If you have found solutions to these problems, it would be great if it were possible to buy the "copyrighted" parts for use in the kits already built.
I really like the environmental impact guarantee, I'll have a look at your webiste for details.
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Yes, we have fixed both problems you mentioned. In fact those were the exact same complaints I had when it was first built. The amp is now extremely involving.
I will likely sell the parts for this in a month or two when I have time to get it commercialized.
Regardingt the environmental stuff... There is not much on the website yet. But I am working on it. I have a prototype database that needs a little work still. But it will soon allow customers to log in and see the history of their orders, as well as the total amount of offsets their purchase has accrued. This will be very useful, as it will take me a little bit of time to secure all of the necessary offsets to make my products 100% impact free. The database will make it easy to back calculate how many offsets I need to purchase.
Also, there will be a feature to see the total offsets accrued by my business in a general sense. In essence, to "prove" to others that I am totally serious about this concept.
At the moment, I have already secured offsets for the shipping of my products. The main impacts with shipping are greenhouse gas emissions and particulates from diesel engines. Fortunately, biodiesel is the perfect offset to these emissions. It reduces the carcinogenic emissions of diesel by 94%, and the greenhouse gas emissions by 80% over regular diesel.
I have secured an arrangement with Portland's GoBiodiesel Cooperative to purchase gallons of biodiesel and donate them to the waste oil collection efforts of the co-op. The co-op is where I get the fuel for my car, BTW. I haven't sidled up to the devil's pumps in over a year now. :D www.gobiodiesel.org
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With the influx of new digital amps and "all in one" receiver/players I'd highly recommend leaving space inside and on the back of the cabinet for direct digital hookups/conversion from various players into the power section. I guess that would also mean having both the future digital converter and the current pre-amp sections ahead of the volume controls.
In other words in light of all the digital product developments, I wouldn't design an amp, especially a digital amp without being digital input ready/convertible.
jeff
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Kevin, why are you having Stillpoints ERS as an upgrade instead of standard issue? As good as this stuff is around digital amps and seeing how your after the best possible performance, I would think using ERS would be a no-brainer. I personally have used ERS inside a Yamaha digital receiver with excellent clarity improvements. Unfortunately, the Yamaha was just too fatiging from the start and ERS`s clarity improvements made it more so. I`m more curious on your thoughts than anything else here. :? Regards, Robin
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Satfrat,
I've experimented with the Stillpoints ERS cloth on my prototype, and it does make a difference. Not huge, but it takes a small edge off the music, which makes it easier to relax into the music. The effect is not that big because LC Audio has done such a great job of minimizing RF in the first place. In fact, even with the modules sitting in the open underneath the TV, there is no problem with radiated RF interference.
Also, since I am keeping the price of the base model very low, there isn't much margin room for more "free" upgrades. I want people to have access to the base model for the lowest price possible, because the performance of even the most basic model is revolutionary IMO. If they can afford the other incremental upgrades, then they will get a better product, but those upgrades are not necessary to understand what this amp is all about.l
I should add that the base model already has Jena Labs Ultrawire, tantalum resistors and immersion cryo treatment on everything as standard. These are the upgrades that make the biggest difference sonically - much more so than the ERS. However, the tube hybrid model WILL have the ERS as standard, BTW. :)
I am still working out prices for upgrades, and will release the final price list at VSAC, along with the official debut of the amp and speakers.
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Thank you for the clarification Kevin, sure to wish I could be out in Washington next weekend to hear your unit. I do hope your able to get some exposure for your "budding" products. Any reviews would make for a good read, IMHO. :D Regards, Robin
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Kevin, I have ordered the Sony AVD-CA700 from my dealer. It may take a few weeks to arrive, but after I've thoroughly broken it in and spent time comparing it to my very expensive to operate tube gear, I will try to determine if the sound quality is good enough for me to justify parting with my beloved gear. If for nothing else, then for a sense of environmental conscience.
If it meets my minimum requirements, I would like to see how your higher parts quality unit compares.
In the 2 channel post on the Sony's, the subject of 20khz was discussed as a limiting factor to resolution. Have you found a way to break past this barrier with your digital amp?
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In the 2 channel post on the Sony's, the subject of 20khz was discussed as a limiting factor to resolution. Have you found a way to break past this barrier with your digital amp?
Jerry, obviously I'm not Kevin, but...
LC Audio specs the frequency response of the modules Kevin's using out to 70kHz with a linear power response to 180kHz. The integrator on the ZAPpulse modules runs at about 500kHz, which allows the extended frequency response.
After exchanging a few messages with Kevin I ordered a pair of these. I am patiently (not!) waiting for them to arrive. Perhaps tomorrow. :) Mine won't be exactly the same as the product Kevin is delivering but I'm really looking forward to hearing these.
Mike G.
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In the 2 channel post on the Sony's, the subject of 20khz was discussed as a limiting factor to resolution. Have you found a way to break past this barrier with your digital amp?
Jerry, I really do not understand what the heck they were talking about, and I question whether they knew either. As Mgalusha ably answered the performance of the LC Audio modules is beyond excellent in terms of frequency response. I personally would never buy an amp that maxed out at 20kHz frequency response.... except if it was an SET
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Seriously, frequency response specs don't mean that much, except that it is a clue towards overall performance. A non-SET amp with outstanding response is more likely to have "it" in terms of emotional involvement. But this is only a very general rule, and not applicable to everything.
Let me know how you like the Sony. It certainly is a very interesting concept.
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Hi Kevin
I've also been pursuing digital amps because of the efficiencies (I will have a whole-house system that will always be in standby), as well as some of the very positive buzz re. their sound quality. I came extremely close to ordering the Zappulse modules from diycable (and still might, as I have a theater system to put together), but purchased a Carver Pro zr1000 digital amp instead partly because a lot more positive feedback available, partly because the zappulse amp would be my first major diy project and I didn't want to mess it up on expensive parts :mrgreen: !
I've been breaking in the zr1000, and generally like the sound so far (although I'm in the middle of a house gutting and only have my decent Parasound in-walls to listen on in a very sub-optimal room). My first impressions were not favorable - sounded warm and mushy to me, but have been "brightening up" nicely as it breaks in, and is now very pleasant and involving for most music. From your posts, it sounds like you have no similar complaints in the higher end frequencies with your experience with the zappulse.
Look forward to hearing more on your exeriences!
P.S. I also live in Portland - where is your showroom? Appointment only?
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My showroom is in my listening room! No brick and mortar for me... only recycleable electrons :)
From what I've read about the Carver, especially with regard to measurements, I am certain that my amp will sound much better. The inherent problems with high frequency switching intermodulating with the music have been eliminated on my amps.
I would love to have you over to hear the Carver and/or bring my Solar Fusion to your listening room. I'll PM with some more details.
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Kevin,
I see you mentioned the eAR amp in one of your posts (though not by name).
As an owner of that amp and also Highly interested in your new amps (and any digital amp claiming revolutionary new high end sound) I was wondering if you've heard the eARTwo?
I'm guessing not directly A/B'ed it to your amp as your amps is so new and just coming together now?
Wondering if you think your amp -which you speak of in much the same way the eAR's designer speaks of his amps- has something to it's design that the eAR's don't?
Obviously the tubed input would be one thing, but you've been talking about the base model/non-tubed one mostly right?
Oh, and did I read someone already ordered your amp?... is there a preorder deal someone could get signed up on?
Would there be a trial period for someone like me to compare your amp to my current one?
Feel free to post here or PM me about any of this. Whatever you want.
Thanks!
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Oh yeah...
I use my amp in an HT set-up also. I'd be really interested in an integrated version of your amp for the cleanest 2-chan. use, but... could I also use it for HT w/ the gain controlled by my pre/pro? Would I just need to set the amp's volume to the exact same spot when using the pre/pro?
Also, some DACs reverse polarity. Could you put a switch/toggle? on your amp to reverse this back and forth so I wouldn't have to swap speakers wires just to listen to music or watch DVD's?
And does the case's top and face act as a heat sink? Or will you have some small heat sinks inside? I know digital amps don't need much heat sinking, but yours still need 'some' right? I've never seen one w/ NO heat sinks.
Living in AZ here your amp would be in a room a LOT warmer than your probably ever is. hehe
And you don't want me wasting energy to cool my house do you? heh
The $250 Pannie all digital Rec. I got for my bedroom gets pretty dang hot at idle (which freaks me out kinda).
Thanks again!
Great looking amp case too! I'd prefer a brushed face not mirrored though, but no big deal. That looks cool too. You need a blue LED on it though. Gotta jam a blue LED somewhere on it! hehe
And I'm SURE it's a LOT easier to plug in cables etc... on the back than on my amp! hehe
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Ohhh my goodness. . . That series of posts has the most question marks I have ever seen in my life! :lol: :lol: :lol:
I'm out of breath just THINKING about how you're going to answer all those K. . ;-)
B
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Ohhh my goodness. . . That series of posts has the most question marks I have ever seen in my life! :lol: :lol: :lol:
I'm out of breath just THINKING about how you're going to answer all those K. . ;-)
B
Haha, if he wants to buy an amp, he can ask all the questions he wants. I'll just pound some coffee and get right into it... 8)
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Kevin,
I see you mentioned the eAR amp in one of your posts (though not by name).
As an owner of that amp and also Highly interested in your new amps (and any digital amp claiming revolutionary new high end sound) I was wondering if you've heard the eARTwo?
I'm guessing not directly A/B'ed it to your amp as your amps is so new and just coming together now?
Wondering if you think your amp -which you speak of in much the same way the eAR's designer speaks of his amps- has something to it's design ...
I have heard the Ear2 at Soundguy3's house. I've also had it in my system with the Solar 1.0 speakers and compared it to my excellent SET amp. The sound is very good and detailed, though not as emotionally involving if I recall. I do know that it couldn't best my SET in terms of this, and the Fusion now does beat my SET in emotional involvement. Therefore by the principle of superposition, the Fusion beats the Ear2. How's that for logic? :P
Now if only Soundguy3 would return from his gig at the Met, we could do a threeway shootout. Methinks his priorities are all out of whack.
Heh, I'm not as crazy as Peter, am I?
I will say that I am quite surprised how much better my basic amp is than my SET. I really didn't expect this. I have some theories as to why... they have to do with the lack of audible harmonic distortion with class D, the extremely high quality of the LC Audio modules, and the clever input circuitry design that I did with Jena Labs.
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Heh, I'm not as crazy as Peter, am I?
Uhhhh. . No. . . ;-)
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Oh yeah...
I use my amp in an HT set-up also. I'd be really interested in an integrated version of your amp for the cleanest 2-chan. use, but... could I also use it for HT w/ the gain controlled by my pre/pro? Would I just need to set the amp's volume to the exact same spot when using the pre/pro?
You got it. The cryo treated Dact and Elna switch will have no impact on the sound whatsoever as far as HT is concerned. Just the figure out which click on the Dact is the right volume for your pre/pro and you're set.
Also, some DACs reverse polarity. Could you put a switch/toggle? on your amp to reverse this back and forth so I wouldn't have to swap speakers wires just to listen to music or watch DVD's?
This would be a problem because it requires switching the ground and the hot lead. This is definite "no-no" for single-ended RCAs, unless you like the acrid smell of smoke :) Polarity switching is much better done in the digital domain. I suppose it would also be possible to implement in a true balanced signal environment.
And does the case's top and face act as a heat sink? Or will you have some small heat sinks inside? I know digital amps don't need much heat sinking, but yours still need 'some' right? I've never seen one w/ NO heat sinks.
The LC Audio modules have the heatsink mounted on the bottom of the circuit board. I just screw this down to the chassis with a little thermal grease, and the bottom plate of the chassis is now a big fat heat sink. With the miniscule amount of heat generated, this works VERY well. The bottom of the amp barely gets warm to the touch.
Living in AZ here your amp would be in a room a LOT warmer than your probably ever is. hehe
And you don't want me wasting energy to cool my house do you? heh
Right on!
You need a blue LED on it though. Gotta jam a blue LED somewhere on it! hehe
Everyone has a blue LED. I hate doing what everyone else has already done. I'm looking for something more original...
And I'm SURE it's a LOT easier to plug in cables etc... on the back than on my amp! hehe
Yes yes yes. And not only that, but there's also a blue flame preventing fuse. :P