AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => Cheap and Cheerful HiFi => Topic started by: OzarkTom on 27 Apr 2014, 01:45 am
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If anyone here is using 12v audio components with their wall wart in their system, try one of the Ten Tec 937 or Astron SL11A linear power supplies instead. These can be had used for about 40-50 bucks on Ebay, new Astrons run a little over 100 bucks and up. I have compared these to the $500 King Rex power supply and no contest. The Astron easily beats the King Rex. Astron actually made the Ten Tec, so either one is cheap and cheerful.
Astron also makes variable power supplies that you can adjust from 0-30vdc. A new one of these is $170.
http://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-004766
I am currently running the 9v IFI Itube in my system and Astron has said that they can make a 9vdc version for $115. That will no doubt be my next audio purchase.
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I built one of these from BHL. (http://boozhoundlabs.com/collections/kits/products/power-supply-kit)
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I built one of these from BHL. (http://boozhoundlabs.com/collections/kits/products/power-supply-kit)
Have you compared it to one of these Astron RS20M?
(http://www.hamradio.com/images_manuf/H0-004431A.jpg)
Linear DC Supply 13.6vdc 20 amps with Meters
* Output Voltage: 13.8 VDC (+/- 0.05 V) Internally Adjustable (11-15 V)
* Continuous Amperage Output 16 Amps
* ICS (Surge) Amperage Output 20 Amps
* Solid State Electronically Regulated
* Fold-Back Current Limiting- Protects Power Supply from Excessive Current & Continuous Shorted Output
* Ripple Less than 5 mV Peak to Peak Full Load and Low Line
* Maintain Regulation & Low Ripple at Low Line Input Voltage
* Three Conductor Power Cord
* With Volt and Amp Meters
* One Year Warranty- Made in USA
* Dimensions : 5" (H) x 9" (W) x 10.5" D
* Shipping Weight : 18 Lbs
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You need a 20 amp power supply to run a few gadgets? :)
That's complete overkill.
The little unit linked by JT looks excellent, but there are dozens of fine options for this application.
Dave.
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You need a 20 amp power supply to run a few gadgets? :)
That's complete overkill.
The little unit linked by JT looks excellent, but there are dozens of fine options for this application.
Dave.
Yes 20A is complete overkill as is dedicated 20a circuits for most audio gear, Class A amps excluded.
The Astron units are dirt cheap compared to other boutique "audiophile" linear power supplies available, and are plug and play. All you have to do is make a cable, which is very easy and inexpensive to do.
But if you are into DIY the one JT mentioned would be fun to build.
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Here are some crappy pics.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98508)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98510)
There's not much to it. Very easy to do. I changed one resistor and used a different transformer for 12Vdc output.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98511)
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You need a 20 amp power supply to run a few gadgets? :)
That's complete overkill.
The little unit linked by JT looks excellent, but there are dozens of fine options for this application.
Dave.
Astron makes all kinds of power supplies, even 7 amp. I and some others here have used high amp, 24-32, batteries before, I have even seen Danny mentioning him using 100 amp batteries. I have always been a huge fan of batteries, but my 12v, 11 amp Ten Tec sounds better than my 12v, 24 amp battery.
I hate to eat my words, but batteries now takes a backseat to these Astron power supplies in my system. If these had "audiophile" written all over them, no doubt they would cost $500 or more. Don't let these cheap prices sway you from trying one. Buy a used one and if it does not sound better on your system, put it back up on Ebay and resell it.
The one JT mentions is 18vdc, not so good for 12v components. Maybe it can be stepped down to 12v. Plus you have to add the cost of a transformer and case to the project. Astron's will be cheaper and you don't have to put it together.
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Nice work JT, maybe JT can offer some a service hear and build some of these power supplies for us.
JT, how much?
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JT, how much?
BHL PS $69
Transformer & Enclosure $75.51
Fuse Holder $2
Neutrik NAC3MPA $4
Then add the output connector of choice, cable and Neutrik NAC3FCA. I could certainly give all part #'s if you were interested in building one. I might build another at some point. I built this one to replace the switcher wall wart for my Bent Audio TAP.
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BHL PS $69
Transformer & Enclosure $75.51
Fuse Holder $2
Neutrik NAC3MPA $4
Then add the output connector of choice, cable and Neutrik NAC3FCA. I could certainly give all part #'s if you were interested in building one. I might build another at some point. I built this one to replace the switcher wall wart for my Bent Audio TAP.
Not so cheap after that. The 11amp SL11A and R are going for about $40-50 on Ebay including shipping. New, those run about $95 including shipping at hamradio.com.
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Not so cheap after that. The 11amp SL11A and R are going for about $40-50 on Ebay including shipping. New, those run about $95 including shipping at hamradio.com.
What are you using it for exactly? The issue that I have with these general use benchtop power supplies is that they're not great. I used to use them at work in the lab all the time. Until I built my own. :D The issue at work is that when logging at really high rates it's really easy to see the noise. However, if you're not using them for mission critcal point of your system, they're probably just fine and adequate. I feel that for the money, what I did is perfect. I have a Teddy Pardo unit here too. It's on the shelf. I'm trying to organize to get the Pardo and my BHL unit measured.
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What are you using it for exactly? The issue that I have with these general use benchtop power supplies is that they're not great. I used to use them at work in the lab all the time. Until I built my own. :D The issue at work is that when logging at really high rates it's really easy to see the noise. However, if you're not using them for mission critcal point of your system, they're probably just fine and adequate. I feel that for the money, what I did is perfect. I have a Teddy Pardo unit here too. It's on the shelf. I'm trying to organize to get the Pardo and my BHL unit measured.
I have been using this on my TBI Millenia amp for the last several months. I was at my buddy;s house and he had one of these sitting in his closet and just for the fun of it hooked it up in place of his battery supply on his TBI. We about fell over, much more information and larger soundstage than the battery. Then we hooked up a $500 King Rex PSU and no contest, the Ten Tec was much better. This is just no ordinary power supply.
So I bought one and tried it at my house, same improvement over the battery. I believe rodge827 here is now experimenting these on other components as well. Maybe he can pipe in with his comments on what he is hearing.
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I built one of these from BHL. (http://boozhoundlabs.com/collections/kits/products/power-supply-kit)
What are you using for the power supply cable? I just built one of the Boozhound supplies to power phono stage and crossovers.
I like the Neutrik XLRs for distributing the power. Still looking at enclosures too.
Plenty of room when stuffing the board, plus clear instructions, so don't be afraid to try this one.
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What are you using for the power supply cable?
Mil Spec cable. two conductor, silver plated shielded. Proper stuff.
I like the Neutrik XLRs for distributing the power. Still looking at enclosures too.
I used Switchcraft locking plug the chassis.
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I have been using this on my TBI Millenia amp for the last several months. I was at my buddy;s house and he had one of these sitting in his closet and just for the fun of it hooked it up in place of his battery supply on his TBI. We about fell over, much more information and larger soundstage than the battery. Then we hooked up a $500 King Rex PSU and no contest, the Ten Tec was much better. This is just no ordinary power supply.
So I bought one and tried it at my house, same improvement over the battery. I believe rodge827 here is now experimenting these on other components as well. Maybe he can pipe in with his comments on what he is hearing.
I have the Ten Tec 937 on a TBI Millenia and an Astron 11A on a Dspeaker Dual core 2.0. Tomorrow I'm putting in an order for an Astron 11A modded to 9vdc for use on an iFi iTube, and hope to have it by weeks end.
Before the 937/11A ps's I was using a custom battery ps with what I thought were very good results. OzarkTom had mentioned that he uses the 937 so I gave it a try and I'm glad I did. Immediately I noticed a huge difference in sound quality that is so substantial I had to get another one for the Dual Core. For the last two weeks my system has sounded the best it ever has with a much blacker background, deeper and wider sound stage, and detail in spades.
I was listening to Bill Evans "Waltz For Debby" the other night and there I was in the Village Vanguard enjoying a masterful performance. The people in the room were going about their business as Bill, Scott, and Paul did their thing. Everything was in its own space with Paul brushing away Scott walking along, and Bill weaving notes like a fine silk cloth maker.
Tommy Emmanuel "Center Stage" was up next and WOW! I have listened to this disc countless times and it was like I was listening to it all over again. Every pluck, pick, strum, knock, breath, creek, and those special nuances that can only come from a live performance were there and then some. Tommy does a lot of drumming and scratching on his guitar to enhance his playing. The last track on disc 1 is "Mombasa" where Tommy lets it all out, and for the first time it sounded as it did when I saw him live 6th row center.
I could go on with a long list of other music like SRV, Kebmo, Yoyo Ma, Little Feat, The Alman Brothers, Jeff Beck, Al DiMeola,....with the same descriptions.
With the addition of the 937 and 11A my music took on new life, its amazing how much information there is on redbook CD's.
Chris
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I just placed my order for an 11A switched to 9v.:D
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I have been using this on my TBI Millenia amp for the last several months.
I bought one for $40 w/ shipping on ebay for my Millenia. Indeed, a nice improvement at a great price.
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What is the best/preferred way to connect a 'finished' tpa3116 to a Ten Tec 937, given the iec receptacle at the amp and the terminals at the psu?
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I bought one for $40 w/ shipping on ebay for my Millenia. Indeed, a nice improvement at a great price.
Guessing you preferred it to the PSU you just sold to me?
I have some less audio-focused uses I can put the one I got from you to. But am curious if you compared them and what differences you observed.
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What is the best/preferred way to connect a 'finished' tpa3116 to a Ten Tec 937, given the iec receptacle at the amp and the terminals at the psu?
These power supplies has positive and negative binding posts like an amp has.
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Yes, but finished amp has a basic iec. So is cutting a standard power cord at other end the best solution?
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If the finished amp has a basic IEC, then it already has a power supply built into it.
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Not according to the seller. (I do not have the amp yet.)
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I know you guys are all set on this but you might find this (http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f8-general-forum/dc-linear-power-supply-pro-or-audiophile-device-20258/#post316542) post interesting.
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I know you guys are all set on this but you might find this (http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f8-general-forum/dc-linear-power-supply-pro-or-audiophile-device-20258/#post316542) post interesting.
Astron may be cheap in price but not in quality. Pick one up in your hands sometime JT, you will be surprised by the weight. The one above that I posted a pic of weighs 18 pounds.
All Astron power supplies are made in the USA, not China. If Astron had audiophile tags on them, the company would probably be charging at least $500. And since these will beat a battery even at my house, they probably are worth $500.
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Astron may be cheap in price but not in quality. Pick one up in your hands sometime JT, you will be surprised by the weight. The one above that I posted a pic of weighs 18 pounds.
All Astron power supplies are made in the USA, not China. If Astron had audiophile tags on them, the company would probably be charging at least $500. And since these will beat a battery even at my house, they probably are worth $500.
I'm very famiiar with them. Hey, as long as you're happy that's all that matters. :D
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I'm very famiiar with them. Hey, as long as you're happy that's all that matters. :D
For these prices, you cannot beat them. :thumb:
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Here is the $500 King Rex power supply that a Ten Tec easily beat.
(http://www.kingrex.co.uk/psu_01.jpg)
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I just placed my order for an 11A switched to 9v.:D
Scoundrel! :x
Your getting mine! :nono:
:roll: :lol: :roll: :lol: :roll: :lol:
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Astron may be cheap in price but not in quality. Pick one up in your hands sometime JT, you will be surprised by the weight. The one above that I posted a pic of weighs 18 pounds.
All Astron power supplies are made in the USA, not China. If Astron had audiophile tags on them, the company would probably be charging at least $500. And since these will beat a battery even at my house, they probably are worth $500.
They are also not to be confused with Astron's newer switching supplies. I also do not think they are 'bench' supplies as is referred to in JT's link. I am pretty sure that link is referring to Mastech supplies and similar, which are not the same thing. The Astrons are made for the ham radio market. I'm no ham radio expert but it seems like high quality power is a must for that hobby. And they are certainly not 'inexpensive' when purchased new, so I'm not sure what the link has to do with the Ten Tec/Astron discussion.
And unless I'm mistaken the BHL PS is just a LD1085 that caps out well below 3A?
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They are also not to be confused with Astron's newer switching supplies.
And unless I'm mistaken the BHL PS is just a LD1085 that caps out well below 3A?
That BHL PS does look to be 3A, maybe JT can verify.
I would stay away from the switching power supplies. Here is the list for the regulated linear supplies.
http://www.astroncorp.com/showpage.asp?p=2
And here is the list for the switching supplies. It looks like these models starts with s.
http://www.astroncorp.com/showpage.asp?p=4
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Gents,
I had a conversation with a guy who repairs Ten Tec and Aston power supplies. He mentioned that the 7A and higher units are the ones to go with. Less than 7A and the internal build quality doesn't do quite as good a job. So purchase 7A or higher and you'll get the best these power supplies have to offer.
Chris
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I also see that there is an Aston 11A and an 11R. But can't figure out the difference between them. Anyone know?
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I also see that there is an Aston 11A and an 11R. But can't figure out the difference between them. Anyone know?
Larry at Comart (800-777-2708) is a great guy to talk to, he would let you know.
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I just placed my order for an 11A switched to 9v.:D
Why are some of you getting custom PS's made and switched to 9V's and where are you ordering them from?
What would be the recommended Ps for powering 2 of the 3116's at once, assuming one of these can be used?
Thanks so much.
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I also see that there is an Aston 11A and an 11R. But can't figure out the difference between them. Anyone know?
I'm actually using the 11R, not sure if there is a difference between them, the schematic that came with it has 11A on it.
Why are some of you getting custom PS's made and switched to 9V's and where are you ordering them from?
What would be the recommended Ps for powering 2 of the 3116's at once, assuming one of these can be used?
Thanks so much.
We are ordering the 11A modded to 9vdc for use with an iFi iTube.
Which is an awesome little piece of gear in it's own right.
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Larry at Comart (800-777-2708) is a great guy to talk to, he would let you know.
Tom,
Is there a website that I can go through?
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Tom,
Is there a website that I can go through?
http://www.astroncorp.com/index.asp
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We are ordering the 11A modded to 9vdc for use with an iFi iTube.
Which is an awesome little piece of gear in it's own right.
If this improves the Itube, look out. I should be getting yours :D by Thursday or Friday.
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If this improves the Itube, look out. I should be getting yours :D by Thursday or Friday.
:duh:
Ordered mine today hope to have it by Friday. :)
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Here's a Ten Tec 937 on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ten-Tec-model-937-Power-supply-/261468189820?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
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Since my question about powering 2 of the 3116's wasn't as easy as I hoped it would be to answer. Can anyone tell me if it's not really feasible? But if it is possible, what kind of parameters I would need to find in said PS? I'm guessing that it would be OK to power 2 amps from one source? Would I just want double the volts and amps?
Thank you :thumb:
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Since my question about powering 2 of the 3116's wasn't as easy as I hoped it would be to answer. Can anyone tell me if it's not really feasible? But if it is possible, what kind of parameters I would need to find in said PS? I'm guessing that it would be OK to power 2 amps from one source? Would I just want double the volts and amps?
Thank you :thumb:
That one is over my head, but maybe someone here would know.
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Thanks for commenting.
I made a post over on DIY if interested.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/255633-hopefully-sorta-simple-question-powering-chip-amp.html#post3912625
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That one is over my head, but maybe someone here would know.
I'm probably not the one to answer but....you need two rails that are fused independently. If you just sum the rating then if there is an issue, the fuse might not fail as needed. That's not good. Just split to have two rails and fuse appropriately and you will be fine.
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You can use this:
Power (Peak) = Voltage ^2 / 2 x Z
where Z = speaker impedance.
For a 12V power supply and 8 ohm speaker load, the calculated peak power is 9 watts. Considering the amp is 90 percent efficient, the power is probably close to 8 watts. If the speakers are inefficient, 8 watts won't go too far in producing low bass notes with authority.
I have an Astron RS-12A that I picked up locally through craigslist for $20 from a HAM radio enthusiast. The power supply was in mint condition, but I could tell it was an older unit by the looks of the vintage Sangamo 17,000uF tank cap and the early-1970's vintage Elna caps on the PCB. I finally got around to re-capping the power supply with a large Evox Rifa PEH200 21,000uF tank cap and low ESR Panasonic and Nichicon caps. The difference is night and day. The power supply as-is was good, but now I'm really hearing the Astron at its best. The soundstage is larger and deeper, the separation is better and the detail is much improved. Of course, the bass digs deeper too.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95473)
I'm going to add an IEC inlet to use better power cords and possibly add an audio grade fuse like a Furutech slo blo fuse. Right now, I'm powering my Sure Electronics TPA3110 amp, and it's amazing how much better this little amp sounds. This is my warm weather little integrated amp when I don't want to turn on my tube amps.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=94527)
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I'm going to add an IEC inlet to use better power cords and possibly add an audio grade fuse like a Furutech slo blo fuse. Right now, I'm powering my Sure Electronics TPA3110 amp, and it's amazing how much better this little amp sounds. This is my warm weather little integrated amp when I don't want to turn on my tube amps.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=94527)
Hey Rich,
Now that you have some time on your latest cap mod on the 3110, do you think it's a significant improvement?
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The photo of my TPA3110 amp was taken when I had the Elna Silmic II 1,000uF/25V caps in there. I've since changed those to Panasonic FM 470uF/25V. To my ears, the sound is smoother, the tone is more organic. Some people describe it as being "wet" versus "dry." There has been no loss of bass going to the smaller capacitance. If anything, the bass is tighter. On the TPA3116 thread, wushuliu mentioned using Panasonic OSCON 330uF/25V organic semiconductor caps. I have those on order along with TDK X7R 220nF/250V ceramic caps for the amp bootstrap caps, and will try those in another Yuan Jing TPA3116 blue amp build along with those funky-looking Coilcraft shielded inductors.
Prior to the cap change, I thought the TPA3116 was superior to the lower powered TPA3110 in terms of casting a larger soundstage and better tone, but now I'm not so sure. With the re-capped Astron power supply, this amp sounds really sweet and musical. I have a single ended pentode EL84 amp project in the works. I really want to compare that tube amp to the TPA31xx amps, because these Texas Instruments amps have a tube-like quality to their sound.
As Tom has mentioned in this thread, it really is worth looking into a high current Astron or Ten Tec regulated linear power supply for these Class D amps. With 90% efficiency a lot of the electrons from the power supply end up at your speakers. A quality power supply and DC power cable is everything.
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A quality power supply and DC power cable is everything.
How does one construct a quality DC cable?
I'm using standard 18g wire with a Rat Shack connector and some banana jacks.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98813)
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How does one construct a quality DC cable?
I'm using standard 18g wire with a Rat Shack connector and some banana jacks.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98813)
That's a good start. You want to use 18 gauge stranded Copper, preferably Teflon-insulated Silver-plated Copper stranded wire (Mil-Spec), that you can purchase at surplus electronic supply stores like Apex Jr. or through eBay. I used 16 gauge Mil-Spec wire in a twisted pair configuration. I slide spiral-cut tubing over that and finish it off with TechFlex expandable sleeving. For connectors on the amp end, I use Switchcraft 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC power connectors, although I have another cable that uses a Neutrik 4-pin XLR connector.
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Thanks rhing 8)
What size spiral cut tubing do you use?
Tech Flex size?
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Thanks Rhing for your observations and mods. I was curious if some cap mods on these power supplies might not make them even better, you have proven they are.
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I'm not sure I want to start tinkering under the hood here, but I'll peak out from my shell and ask: How do you know when it's time to start replacing caps?
rhing, are these the caps you were using for the tank caps?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PEH200MJ5220MB2/399-5653-ND/2193731
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Heck why not go for the gold:
http://partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_mundorf_plugin.html
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Thanks rhing 8)
What size spiral cut tubing do you use?
Tech Flex size?
Either 3/16" or 1/4" should be fine for both.
I'm not sure I want to start tinkering under the hood here, but I'll peak out from my shell and ask: How do you know when it's time to start replacing caps?
rhing, are these the caps you were using for the tank caps?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PEH200MJ5220MB2/399-5653-ND/2193731
Electrolytic caps typically have a life of about 20 years--that's whether they've been used or not. They age and can diminish in performance. I estimate that the caps in my power supply were easily over 20 years old, so they were due to be replaced.
The Evox Rifa (now Kemet) cap I put into my unit had similar specifications as the one you cited, except I bought mine from Mouser since they had them in stock.
Kemet PEH200MJ5220MU2........................ ....22,000uF/63V (without mounting screw)
Kemet PEH200MJ5220MB2........................ ....22,000uF/63V (with mounting screw, not required)
Even though my new cap has a chassis mounting screw on the bottom of the cap body, mine is lying on its side held down with ties.
Heck why not go for the gold:
http://partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_mundorf_plugin.html
I would have preferred the Nichicon Super Through or the Gold Tune audio-grade large capacitance caps, but I needed a cap with screw terminals with 25mm spacing. The Evox Rifa caps seem to have a good reputation for use in audio power supplies. Other candidates were the Kendeil's and BHC Aerovox Slit Foil screw terminal caps.
Today was turntable tune-up day where I tune everything up on my Kenwood belt-idler wheel drive turntable to make sure all my settings are re-calibrated. With my tube phono stage feeding directly into my Sure Electronics TPA3110, the music is pretty impressive.
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The Evox Rifa cap I put into my unit had similar specifications as the one you cited, except I bought mine from Mouser since they had them in stock. Even though my new cap has a chassis mounting screw on the bottom of the cap body, mine is lying on its side held down with ties.
Thanks, rhing, for the info on the shelf life of caps. Why was it necessary to lie the cop on it's side?
OzarkTom, thanks for pointing out these power supplies. I was skeptical at first, but you were right; my SL-11A makes my TPA3116d2 board sound better.
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Thanks, rhing, for the info on the shelf life of caps. Why was it necessary to lie the cop on it's side?
This is the way that Astron designed the layout. The only thing mounting the PCB are the screw terminal attachments to the large filter (tank) cap. Without fastening the large cap with ties, there would be nothing keeping the PCB in place. It's not the best mechanical design, but it works and it makes great music with my TPA31xx amps.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98939)
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Here is a lot of big capacitors on Ebay for the Astron power supplies if anyone here is interested.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/lot-of-29-big-capacitors-for-ham-radio-power-supply-electronic-components-ASTRON-/380894773254?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58af190006
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Thanks, but those caps look like they have seen better days. For really good performance, I would buy new caps from a reputable source like Mouser, Digikey, Allied Electronics and Newark Electronics. The large caps in these linear power supplies are directly tied into those more expensive power transformers. If the cap goes, you risk catastrophic damage to the power transformer and possibly other parts of the power supply.
You can take your chances on used caps like the ones in the eBay listing, but you should have the capability of testing them and reforming (i.e., reconditioning) them, if they are out of specification. That still doesn't guarantee that they'll be reliable.
Also, if you ever consider replacing the large electrolytic power supply capacitor(s), you MUST know and understand how to safely and properly discharge a capacitor. Exercise extreme caution as the voltages that can potentially discharge could be lethal. There are many sources for this information on the Web. AC power is no joke.
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For the most part the above warning applies to high voltage vacuum tube power supplies and to high current, very high power solid state power amplifiers.
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Will RS-20A work with the tpa3116 based amps?
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Will RS-20A work with the tpa3116 based amps?
That should be fine. With most Astron power supplies, the current rating is a peak current rating. For instance, my Astron RS-12A has a peak current rating of 12A and a continuous current rating of 9A. In reality, the actual continuous current capability is approximately 4-5A. Astron has a tendency to inflate their current handling specs.
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Just listed a few minutes ago, a radio and Astron 7A power supply for $35 and free shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASTRON-7A-POWER-SUPPLY-WITH-RADIO-/121339397514?pt=US_CB_Radios&hash=item1c4064458a
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"This listing was ended by the seller because there was an error in the listing."
↓ ↓ ↓ ↓ ↓
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASTRON-7A-POWER-SUPPLY-WITH-RADIO-/121339421706?pt=US_CB_Radios&hash=item1c4064a40a (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASTRON-7A-POWER-SUPPLY-WITH-RADIO-/121339421706?pt=US_CB_Radios&hash=item1c4064a40a)
↓ ↓ ↓ ↓ ↓
"This listing was ended by the seller because there was an error in the listing."
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If anyone here needs a 24v Astron, this looks like a good deal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24VDC-Astron-LS-3A-Power-Supply-/181412309413?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Device_Power_Supplies&hash=item2a3d0429a5
This 7a went for $19.99 plus $3.94 for shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASTRON-RS-7A-13-8VDC-5ADC-REGULATED-POWER-SUPPLY-/321406386283?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Coaxial_Cables_Connectors&hash=item4ad550406b&nma=true&si=Pcm7YoGF9HVmdGi3snR47595MhA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
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Hey Now,
Got lucky and just picked up an Astron 7a off flea-bay for $33 and change, shipped. Planning to use it for my TPA3116 build. Can't wait to get this built, ordered a case from China, planning to make it look proper. My cigar boxed TPA3110 is doing fine out in the garage driving my Heresy speakers using a 15v wall wart from an old optical drive. This is pretty fun stuff, thanks to everyone who has contributed.
--
Finest kind,
Chris
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. . . . <snippage> This 7a went for $19.99 plus $3.94 for shipping. <snippage>
Hey Now,
The shipping actually may have been a bit higher, the seller noted that he had problems putting in a shipping cost and said to plan for a 12 LB. shipping weight. Still sounds like a good deal all around.
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Finest kind,
Chris
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I have had my Itube hooked up the Astron SL11A, modded by the company for 9v, for a few weeks now. Before, I was getting some decent sound with the Itube, but I was not ready to hear what it sounds now.Itt is much larger soundstage, more holograohic, and much more natural sounding. I feel the Itube has actually improved 100% or better.
Of all the tweeks I have ever done in my life, this is the most improved that I have ever heard and it cost me $114 to do it. I could have bought a thousand dollar speaker cables or power cable and the improvement would never have been this great. I strongly feel this Itube-Astron combo would improve any system regardless of price. :thumb:
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I have the Ten Tec 937 on a TBI Millenia and an Astron 11A on a Dspeaker Dual core 2.0. Tomorrow I'm putting in an order for an Astron 11A modded to 9vdc for use on an iFi iTube, and hope to have it by weeks end.
Before the 937/11A ps's I was using a custom battery ps with what I thought were very good results. OzarkTom had mentioned that he uses the 937 so I gave it a try and I'm glad I did. Immediately I noticed a huge difference in sound quality that is so substantial I had to get another one for the Dual Core.
Rodge, could you go into a little more detail about the sound difference of the Dual Core 2.0 with the Astron? I am trying to improve my Dual Cores transparency that I am not happy with. I am trying to spend as little money as possible to see if I can improve it. So far my FAT DAC (Firestone Audio Tobby) is superior as a DAC, especially in the area of transparency. If I could improve that then I would just use the Dual Core as an all-in-one solution. Even when I switch the Dual Core to "by pass" and run my FAT DAC through it there is a noticeable diminishing of transparency. Taking the Dual Core out of the chain altogether makes a big difference. So I mostly wanted to know if you noticed a difference in transparency using the Astron? Thanks!
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I have had my Itube hooked up the Astron SL11A, modded by the company for 9v, for a few weeks now. Before, I was getting some decent sound with the Itube, but I was not ready to hear what it sounds now.Itt is much larger soundstage, more holograohic, and much more natural sounding. I feel the Itube has actually improved 100% or better.
Of all the tweeks I have ever done in my life, this is the most improved that I have ever heard and it cost me $114 to do it. I could have bought a thousand dollar speaker cables or power cable and the improvement would never have been this great. I strongly feel this Itube-Astron combo would improve any system regardless of price. :thumb:
Tom, have you tried the Astron 11A with your modified TBI amp yet, I picked up an 11A that you posted about to try but haven't had a change to connect it the two amps I have.
Thanks,
Greg
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Tom, have you tried the Astron 11A with your modified TBI amp yet, I picked up an 11A that you posted about to try but haven't had a change to connect it the two amps I have.
Thanks,
Greg
Yes Greg, it made quite a bit of difference on the TBI. Before the Astron, the battery was the best. But the Astron gives the TBI a bigger soundstage and sounds even more natural.
In a week or two, I might send my 9v Astron in to get it cryo'd. I will give an update if I do. I haD the Itube cryo'd and that made another improvement on the SQ.
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I have the Ten Tec 937 on a TBI Millenia and an Astron 11A on a Dspeaker Dual core 2.0. Tomorrow I'm putting in an order for an Astron 11A modded to 9vdc for use on an iFi iTube, and hope to have it by weeks end.
Before the 937/11A ps's I was using a custom battery ps with what I thought were very good results. OzarkTom had mentioned that he uses the 937 so I gave it a try and I'm glad I did. Immediately I noticed a huge difference in sound quality that is so substantial I had to get another one for the Dual Core.
Rodge, could you go into a little more detail about the sound difference of the Dual Core 2.0 with the Astron? I am trying to improve my Dual Cores transparency that I am not happy with. I am trying to spend as little money as possible to see if I can improve it. So far my FAT DAC (Firestone Audio Tobby) is superior as a DAC, especially in the area of transparency. If I could improve that then I would just use the Dual Core as an all-in-one solution. Even when I switch the Dual Core to "by pass" and run my FAT DAC through it there is a noticeable diminishing of transparency. Taking the Dual Core out of the chain altogether makes a big difference. So I mostly wanted to know if you noticed a difference in transparency using the Astron? Thanks!
Hi islandman,
To better answer your question could you please post the other power supplies you are using?
As noted in the other half of my post that wasn't quoted, details/transparency (to me they are the same thing) were also clearer.
The Astron linear power supplies are inexpensive to purchase new and are even a better deal used.
You could purchase one on Ebay, and if it doesn't sound better resell it.
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What is the equivalent to Astron in Europe? Anybody knows? Is it possible to clone the Astron? Looks like everybody is happy using it with their TPA3116.
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To conserve shelf space I'm considering attaching a TPA3116 in a case on top of an Astron RS-12A.
Thinking I would run new internal leads through the top of the Astron to the TPA so as to avoid the external screw down connections. How does this sound?
Am I correct to assume Astrons store lethal voltage even after being unplugged?
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To conserve shelf space I'm considering attaching a TPA3116 in a case on top of an Astron RS-12A.
Thinking I would run new internal leads through the top of the Astron to the TPA so as to avoid the external screw down connections. How does this sound?
Am I correct to assume Astrons store lethal voltage even after being unplugged?
I just got an Astron RS-12A, got a reasonable price so I went for it.
I don't think it would have a lethal voltage, it is likely to have a transformer with 115V in, and maybe 20V or so out. It doesn't need more than that to generate the 12-15VDC the supply can generate. And the higher the voltage out of the transformer, the more heat it needs to dissipate, so it is unlikely to generate a very high voltage. This applies to linear supplies, switchers are different.
Randy
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I can get another Astron for $5 bucks at a elec recycling place
Its an Astron RS-7A
Is the Astron RS-7A enough power to drive "both" TPA 3116 and the Magic Sound Buffer 6N3 x 2 + 6Z4 Tube Preamp AMP?
Magic Sound tube specs:
1 the Beijing 6N3 electronic tube
2 main filter capacitor using imported chemical 450V220UF, coupling capacitor using the top German imports of Wilmore capacitor
3 resistance selection of rings of metal resistance, the main circuit uses accuracy + / - 1% rings metal film resistors, guarantee
The good signal to noise ratio.
4.PCB employs 1.6mm thick double-sided plate, 2 in copper thickness, spray tin full process, ensure the size of current with good performance. First-class quality of PCB.
Distribution transformer 5 formal manufacturers, quality first-class!
5.the power amplifier board wiring reasonable, beautiful appearance, small electric current sound
Finished board size: length 12.5cm of the plate width 9cm height 7cm
High Voltage: AC150V-0-AC150V (current 10MA more) filament voltage: AC6.3V (4A above)
this amplifier is used fiber glass PCB,.Excellent electrolytic capacitor.film capacitors and precision metal film resistors. it has DC power supply on board .just connect the power transformer to run it
High Voltage: AC150V-0-AC150V (current 10MA more) filament voltage: AC6.3V (4A above)
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Here's the TPA3116 siamesed to the Astron RS-12A power supply.
Amazing transformation of an already good sounding little amp. Next I may try mounting it inside the Astron.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=103863)
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I can get another Astron for $5 bucks at a elec recycling place
Its an Astron RS-7A
Is the Astron RS-7A enough power to drive "both" TPA 3116 and the Magic Sound Buffer 6N3 x 2 + 6Z4 Tube Preamp AMP?
The Astron puts out around 13VDC. This is the not the voltage the Magic Sound wants, so you cant use the Astron to power the Magic Sound
Randy
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I can get another Astron for $5 bucks at a elec recycling place
Its an Astron RS-7A
Is the Astron RS-7A enough power to drive "both" TPA 3116 and the Magic Sound Buffer 6N3 x 2 + 6Z4 Tube Preamp AMP?
Magic Sound tube specs:
1 the Beijing 6N3 electronic tube
2 main filter capacitor using imported chemical 450V220UF, coupling capacitor using the top German imports of Wilmore capacitor
3 resistance selection of rings of metal resistance, the main circuit uses accuracy + / - 1% rings metal film resistors, guarantee
The good signal to noise ratio.
4.PCB employs 1.6mm thick double-sided plate, 2 in copper thickness, spray tin full process, ensure the size of current with good performance. First-class quality of PCB.
Distribution transformer 5 formal manufacturers, quality first-class!
5.the power amplifier board wiring reasonable, beautiful appearance, small electric current sound
Finished board size: length 12.5cm of the plate width 9cm height 7cm
High Voltage: AC150V-0-AC150V (current 10MA more) filament voltage: AC6.3V (4A above)
this amplifier is used fiber glass PCB,.Excellent electrolytic capacitor.film capacitors and precision metal film resistors. it has DC power supply on board .just connect the power transformer to run it
High Voltage: AC150V-0-AC150V (current 10MA more) filament voltage: AC6.3V (4A above)
I have no idea what you're talking about, but yes a 7a unit will drive two 2a units and one .25-1a unit just fine.
What may or may not go over well is possible loops.
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I have no idea what you're talking about, but yes a 7a unit will drive two 2a units and one .25-1a unit just fine.
What may or may not go over well is possible loops.
"
I should have better clarified my question. Can i run both the Sure TPA 3116 "&" the Magic Sound Buffer 6N3 x 2 + 6Z4 Tube Preamp off the
ASTRON RS-7A
Sure TPA 3116 Specs
http://store.sure-electronics.com/aa-ab32178
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"
I should have better clarified my question. Can i run both the Sure TPA 3116 "&" the Magic Sound Buffer 6N3 x 2 + 6Z4 Tube Preamp off the
ASTRON RS-7A
Sure TPA 3116 Specs
http://store.sure-electronics.com/aa-ab32178
Power wise you'll be fine. It's plenty of current. But the preamp runs on higher voltage I think, so it may not work.
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I've mentioned before that a friend who had built a pair of 300B mono blocks was so impressed with my modified Yuan Jing TPA3116 blue amp, he bought it from me. Even though I sold him my amp, I kept my upgraded Astron RS-12A, which I bought for $20 through craigslist. My friend ended up going to the nearest Ham Radio Outlet to purchase a new Astron RS-12A. When he hooked it up to the YJ amp, he was so disappointed in the sound. He said the sound was flat, lifeless and lacked any sizeable soundstage. I went over to his house and brought my Astron RS-12A for comparison. When we hooked my PSU up to his YJ amp and system, we could tell within 5 seconds that there was a significant improvement in sound.
We opened up his Astron RS-12A, and I was shocked to see this little 18,000uF/25V CDE electrolytic cap inside. Granted this cap has similar capacitance to the Kemet (formerly Rifa) PEH200 cap in my Astron RS-12A, the ESR is triple what the Kemet cap is specified at.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105088)
My friend said he was going to take the power supply back to the Ham Radio Outlet and get a refund. I made him an offer he couldn't refuse--I'd swap my upgraded Astron for his brand new stock Astron. He didn't hesitate at that at all, and I left his home with the new Astron. When I got home, I connected it to my system, and sure enough, the sound was flat, dull and lifeless. Everything measured as I could best determine. I switched from the stock 3x18AWG power cord to a heavier 3x12AWG power cord, and the sound improved, but I could still tell something was missing.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105092)
I set off on placing an order with Mouser for new caps:
- C1................................Nichicon UKZ1H102MHM, 1,000uF/50V
- C4................................Panasonic EEU-FM1E101, 100uF/25V
- C5................................Kemet PEH200MJ5220MB2, 22,000/63V
- C6................................Panasonic EEA-FC1E220, 22uF/25V
- C101.............................Panasonic EEU-FM1C222, 2,200/16V
I had to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in the bottom of my chassis to accommodate the M12 threaded stud on the base of the large Kemet electrolytic cap. I secured this in place with an M12 Nylon locking nut. The Nichicon Muse cap is pretty large too. I wired everything back up, and the power supply looks a lot different now. Since the regulator board was raised to a position with a little clearance under the chassis top, I stuck a sheet of Teflon over the board to avoid shorting with the metal cabinet.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105090)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105091)
After allowing the power supply to burn in with a test CD in repeat mode over the course of two days, it was time to listen to some music. This is what I expected--a large, deep soundstage with punchy, articulate bass, very good separation of instruments and vocals and a greater sense of transparency. This was music.
If you have a stock Astron power supply and you know how to work safely with AC mains power, you owe it to yourself to upgrade the caps.
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Rhing
Is your modded Astron better than the one you traded to your friend?
I have a couple Astrons, but I'm using them to power my music PC.
And is there a reason why you used a 63V cap? (versus a lower voltage one) I didn't think the big cap in my astron is 63V.
Randy
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D1, D2, and D5 look like they could be replaced with MSR860G (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MSR860G/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbRapU8LlZD9Yt6EMzPspSo%252bn%252bGoiDNy8%3d) for lower noise in the voltage regulating control.
The bridge can be replaced with this bad boy (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/IXYS/VBE17-06NO7/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fKGlmTW84eZIGwmvKhbf%252bNA%3d).
While you're at it... those mods would take it up quiet a bit, since most diodes in any equipment sold are just RF amplifiers.
I could come up with some other fun modifications, perhaps. There's limits to the amount of room inside of it, and the high amperage isn't friendly for some modifications. Those are just part replacement modifications. There are other diodes but they're zeners, current limiters, etc, and there just isn't anything to be done with them.
I used this service manual (http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/44456/Astron_RS-7A%20RS-12A.html) to look up parts, notice it has several of them and it's the second schematic. It appears over the years they've only changed a little bit of parts like capacitors (to crap, ha).
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Rhing
Is your modded Astron better than the one you traded to your friend?
I have a couple Astrons, but I'm using them to power my music PC.
And is there a reason why you used a 63V cap? (versus a lower voltage one) I didn't think the big cap in my astron is 63V.
Randy
I haven't had a chance to directly compare the two power supplies. Based on memory, these are very similar, and all I can say is that the cap upgrades are definitely worthwhile. I like this unit as it already has the IEC inlet installed, so I can use a good power cord. OzarkTom mentioned the Reality Cables power cord. Right now, I have a Kimber Kable 3x12AWG power cord in there now. I know, I know--not C&C. But man it sounds so good right now.
As for using the 63V cap, it has the proper screw terminal lead spacing. The lower voltage Kemet PEH200 cap has a 13mm screw terminal spacing, which would not fit this board. This 63V caps is the same cap that I installed in my old Astron. A possibly better alternative would be the Kemet (Rifa) PEH169 series caps. I also considered Kendeil caps from Italy. Quite a few Naim enthusiasts like both brands for their Naim power supplies.
D1, D2, and D5 look like they could be replaced with MSR860G (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MSR860G/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbRapU8LlZD9Yt6EMzPspSo%252bn%252bGoiDNy8%3d) for lower noise in the voltage regulating control.
The bridge can be replaced with this bad boy (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/IXYS/VBE17-06NO7/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fKGlmTW84eZIGwmvKhbf%252bNA%3d).
While you're at it... those mods would take it up quiet a bit, since most diodes in any equipment sold are just RF amplifiers.
I could come up with some other fun modifications, perhaps. There's limits to the amount of room inside of it, and the high amperage isn't friendly for some modifications. Those are just part replacement modifications. There are other diodes but they're zeners, current limiters, etc, and there just isn't anything to be done with them.
I used this service manual (http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/44456/Astron_RS-7A%20RS-12A.html) to look up parts, notice it has several of them and it's the second schematic. It appears over the years they've only changed a little bit of parts like capacitors (to crap, ha).
Thanks for the recommendations. I will have to try them after I have to chance to evaluate some mods to my Sure TPA3116 amp. For the moment, I'm back to enjoying my modified YJ blue amp with the CineMag transformers.
This new Astron unit came with a very clean copy of the schematic. I agree that the stock parts quality in my old unit were superior to what were in this new unit. In fact, I can say without a doubt that the parts upgrades with my old unit was less dramatic compared to the same upgrades made with the new unit. Oh well, I voided the warranty, but I'm enjoying the music. So is my buddy across the Bay. :thumb:
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Interesting. So how old was your original unit? Is there a way to tell the mfg from the serial number? I have been looking to find a unit that is relative new but will now change it around and look for an older instead.
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Interesting. So how old was your original unit? Is there a way to tell the mfg from the serial number? I have been looking to find a unit that is relative new but will now change it around and look for an older instead.
The older and IMO better units do not have an IEC.
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Interesting. So how old was your original unit? Is there a way to tell the mfg from the serial number? I have been looking to find a unit that is relative new but will now change it around and look for an older instead.
Based on the components that were in my first, older unit, I estimate that it was at least 15 years old, possibly 20 years old. It had a large 2" diameter x 4" long Sangamo electrolytic filter cap and Elna electrolytic caps mounted on the regulator board. The serial no. was 9-11 digits long starting with "303." My current, newer unit has a serial number starting with "2014," so I assume it represents the year of manufacture.
As PG mentioned, the older units have a hard wired power cord. The newer units have an IEC inlet and a cheap detachable power cord.
If you look for older units, try to find one in good shape. Chances are you might not discover the history of usage. HAM radio operators put these power supplies through the paces more than a 90% efficient Class D amp ever would, so you might have to replace vital, aged components like electrolytic caps. Whether they are used much or not, electrolytic caps age with time.
Here is a good resource covering Astron power supplies:
http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/astron-index.html (http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/astron-index.html)
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Gregg at Reality Cables has cryo'd one of these Astrons, I will check with him and see if it made any difference. It would be interesting on getting one of these Astrons highly modified and then getting it cryo'd.
The new 9v stock unit that I bought made a huge difference in SQ on the Itube.
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OK thanks for the info Rhing.
I'll look into it, but I have drilled out PWB's before, so for me it is an option to drill to use lower voltage (and cheaper) caps, if all the other specs are OK. I'll have to check the specs when I get a chance. This cap needs to be rated for a high ripple current.
I'm probably going to try this tweak
http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f10-music-servers/good-linear-power-supply-unit-s-computer-audiophile-pocket-server-music-player-wont-break-bank-17336/index12.html#post280401 (http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f10-music-servers/good-linear-power-supply-unit-s-computer-audiophile-pocket-server-music-player-wont-break-bank-17336/index12.html#post280401)
Adding a damping RC circuit on the transformer secondary. It's easy and cheap to try, and I need to go to Frys today anyway for a phone battery so I'll pick up the parts.
Randy
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Here is the difference between the stock Cornell Dubilier SLP cap and the Kemet cap:
Cornell Dubilier SLP.......18,000uF/25V.......3.9A ripple current.....33mohms ESR
Kemet PEH200..............22,000uF/63V.......19A ripple current......10mohms ESR
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Gregg at Reality Cables has cryo'd one of these Astrons, I will check with him and see if it made any difference. It would be interesting on getting one of these Astrons highly modified and then getting it cryo'd.
The new 9v stock unit that I bought made a huge difference in SQ on the Itube.
My gripe with cryo anything is that once something is cryo'd there's no going back. So if you don't care for the change (if any) then you're stuck with it.
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Here is the difference between the stock Cornell Dubilier SLP cap and the Kemet cap:
Cornell Dubilier SLP.......18,000uF/25V.......3.9A ripple current.....33mohms ESR
Kemet PEH200..............22,000uF/63V.......19A ripple current......10mohms ESR
Thanks for looking that up
3.9a ripple? Seems low.
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(if any)
I hear you. I thought cryo was all bull also until this summer. Now I am a believer. :thumb:
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Thanks for looking that up
3.9a ripple? Seems low.
That's what I thought when I looked up the specs after discovering this cap under the hood. The Kemet PEH200 and PEH169 series caps aren't cheap, but they have impressive specs and they work well in audio amplifier power supply applications.
I hear you. I thought cryo was all bull also until this summer. Now I am a believer. :thumb:
I am a believer too to some extent. Cryogenic annealing is a legitimate material annealing process if the process is executed correctly. The big question is whether it produces audible improvements. It's been a mixed bag for me. With some vacuum tubes, it really makes a difference. It seems to make a difference with connectors and cables. Based on the science behind it, I doubt it has as much effect on less crystalline or amorphous materials like polymers (such as polymers in film capacitors) or dielectric insulators (such as Teflon or PVC wire and cable insulation).
As wushuliu said, if the results are worse with cryo, you are stuck with what you've got.
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For audio gear I would dampen the transformer from the primary side. Secondary snubbers aren't often appreciated by some pretty serious people on DIYaudio. Good idea, but the result isn't what you want.
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Rhing,
You have already given me some suggestions for a better cap to replace the big blue one in my SL-11A. I do have a question though: Would it be feasible to mount an even larger/better cap off the board in the open area shown in the pics below? I know keeping leads short is critical so this is probably a dumb idea. :scratch:
(http://i.imgur.com/ZRlZnkXl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/lRJS1EOl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Loyp7h2l.jpg)
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Rhing,
You have already given me some suggestions for a better cap to replace the big blue one in my SL-11A. I do have a question though: Would it be feasible to mount an even larger/better cap off the board in the open area shown in the pics below? I know keeping leads short is critical so this is probably a dumb idea. :scratch:
One of the problems with selecting caps for most Astron power supplies is that the regulator board is mounted to the main filter cap, and the main filter cap is mounted to the chassis. In this arrangement, the filter cap body is the only thing keeping the regulator board mechanically fixed inside the chassis, so you must keep that in mind when selecting capacitors. Your best option is to find a slightly higher capacitance of 22,000uF with a low ESR and high ripple current. The snap-in type Panasonic TS-HA series seems to be the best option going through Mouser or Digikey. The Mundorf M-Lytic caps have impressive specs, but I do not have any experience with them.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/mund_ag.pdf (http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/mund_ag.pdf)
The Astron "SL" series is shorter in height than the "RS" series, so you have fewer options for fitting capacitors inside them. When I looked for caps for my RS-12A, I used a 4" long paper tube to gauge the fit of a 100mm length screw terminal cap inside my power supply.
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One of the problems with selecting caps for most Astron power supplies is that the regulator board is mounted to the main filter cap, and the main filter cap is mounted to the chassis. In this arrangement, the filter cap body is the only thing keeping the regulator board mechanically fixed inside the chassis, so you must keep that in mind when selecting capacitors. Your best option is to find a slightly higher capacitance of 22,000uF with a low ESR and high ripple current. The snap-in type Panasonic TS-HA series seems to be the best option going through Mouser or Digikey. The Mundorf M-Lytic caps have impressive specs, but I do not have any experience with them.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/mund_ag.pdf (http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/mund_ag.pdf)
The Astron "SL" series is shorter in height than the "RS" series, so you have fewer options for fitting capacitors inside them. When I looked for caps for my RS-12A, I used a 4" long paper tube to gauge the fit of a 100mm length screw terminal cap inside my power supply.
I can mount the board without using the cap and it's bracket. There is a quite a bit of real estate between the IEC connector and the power switch to mount a larger cap. The big blue cap on my board is soldered on, not attached with screw terminals. If I were to mount the cap remotely off the board is that a bad idea because the leads would be longer going to the board? How critical is the lead length for these electrolytic caps? :dunno:
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It acts more as a power reservoir, so having a little longer leads isn't going to be as noticeable as the performance gain from a substantially better capacitors. The decoupling of RF and what not is a job taken care of to a much larger degree by a few smaller capacitors, and capacitors in your load. Think of the distance the wires run to the load from the PSU, a very small run on this cap is going to be like having a slightly longer umbilical cord.
What you can however do is mount another small cap with leads that are very short directly to the pads. However I'm going to give you a little bit of a different recipe. Use a 1uf film, and the cheapest, crappiest, 300-400uf cap you can find. Solder them as short of leads possible right onto the pads, and then have the large one mounted off board.
You can even use a couple of these. 871-B32560J1105K (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EPCOS/B32560J1105K/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF1iYn56hZ3Ym1O8Z0boC3sY%3d)
and maybe this will be a crappy enough capacitor 647-UVR1E331MPD1TD (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVR1E331MPD1TD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22V%2flPcxpPveTEZoZziQ4oYo%3d) . If you have any cheap capacitors from a chinese product use one of those, some off-brand cap.
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Thanks Rhing & PG for the info - Much appreciated.
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Ok guys, I need a 12v LPS for my Auraliti PK100 Digital File Player.
Which Astron model do I get ???
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It acts more as a power reservoir, so having a little longer leads isn't going to be as noticeable as the performance gain from a substantially better capacitors. The decoupling of RF and what not is a job taken care of to a much larger degree by a few smaller capacitors, and capacitors in your load. Think of the distance the wires run to the load from the PSU, a very small run on this cap is going to be like having a slightly longer umbilical cord.
What you can however do is mount another small cap with leads that are very short directly to the pads. However I'm going to give you a little bit of a different recipe. Use a 1uf film, and the cheapest, crappiest, 300-400uf cap you can find. Solder them as short of leads possible right onto the pads, and then have the large one mounted off board.
You can even use a couple of these. 871-B32560J1105K (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EPCOS/B32560J1105K/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF1iYn56hZ3Ym1O8Z0boC3sY%3d)
and maybe this will be a crappy enough capacitor 647-UVR1E331MPD1TD (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVR1E331MPD1TD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22V%2flPcxpPveTEZoZziQ4oYo%3d) . If you have any cheap capacitors from a chinese product use one of those, some off-brand cap.
So main difference between Cornell Dubilier SLP and Kemet PEH for sound would be the 4000uF difference, not ESR, withstanding ripple is only life expectance?
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It acts more as a power reservoir, so having a little longer leads isn't going to be as noticeable as the performance gain from a substantially better capacitors. The decoupling of RF and what not is a job taken care of to a much larger degree by a few smaller capacitors, and capacitors in your load. Think of the distance the wires run to the load from the PSU, a very small run on this cap is going to be like having a slightly longer umbilical cord.
What you can however do is mount another small cap with leads that are very short directly to the pads. However I'm going to give you a little bit of a different recipe. Use a 1uf film, and the cheapest, crappiest, 300-400uf cap you can find. Solder them as short of leads possible right onto the pads, and then have the large one mounted off board.
You can even use a couple of these. 871-B32560J1105K (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/EPCOS/B32560J1105K/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF1iYn56hZ3Ym1O8Z0boC3sY%3d)
and maybe this will be a crappy enough capacitor 647-UVR1E331MPD1TD (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVR1E331MPD1TD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22V%2flPcxpPveTEZoZziQ4oYo%3d) . If you have any cheap capacitors from a chinese product use one of those, some off-brand cap.
Your recipe sounds like a plan, but why a 'cheap' 300-400uF cap? Also, any suggestions for a big cap if I am remotely mounting it. It doesn't have to have screw terminals, and lead spacing isn't an issue. I could possibly fit a 2" X 4" beast in there if I move the transformer to the right (no big deal). However, I would really like to use something in the 1-1/2" - 1-3/4" diameter range if possible, and under 4" long.
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The cheap one will act like a dampening device, as its ESR and leakage is higher.
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For audio gear I would dampen the transformer from the primary side. Secondary snubbers aren't often appreciated by some pretty serious people on DIYaudio. Good idea, but the result isn't what you want.
Missed your reply before
There's a long thread at diyaudio about measuring for adding secondary snubbers
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/243100-simple-no-math-transformer-snubber-using-quasimodo-test-jig.html (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/243100-simple-no-math-transformer-snubber-using-quasimodo-test-jig.html)
And I'm not sure what it would do on the primaries, I think you need to add the snubber to compensate for the secondary side of the tx, like capacitance of the secondary windings.
I did add the RC network to my DAC the other day, and I think it improved it, although it was pretty subtle.
Randy
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Dampening can happen through the primaries to the secondaries.
Some people are into snubbers. They often look great on paper, others think they do some very wrong things. The solution of avoiding the issues of them on the secondary, is to dampen through the primary. If you're interested in this, I'll ask my guy who's into resonation control more than I am.
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Dampening can happen through the primaries to the secondaries.
Some people are into snubbers. They often look great on paper, others think they do some very wrong things. The solution of avoiding the issues of them on the secondary, is to dampen through the primary. If you're interested in this, I'll ask my guy who's into resonation control more than I am.
Sure, I'm, interested. It doesn't make sense to me that it would be better to dampen on the primary, but there is a lot of things I don't understand.
Randy
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The older and IMO better units do not have an IEC.
So, is this still the way to think here with the Astron? Be on the look out for an older model with non-detachable cord or a newer model with IEC? I guess it comes down the willingness to DIY some mods?
Thanks,
Jim
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I can report back that Astron SL-15 works great as well. Note that the outer "shell" used for integrated mounting of the HAM radio can be removed but it left 2 "posts" in the front two corners that I had to cut off. I had planned to put the TPA3116 in the empty space but the shell was unfortunately bent at arrival, but I'm not the one to complain since I picked up a used one for only $5.
Here's a picture of the power supply with the shell:
http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/images/Astron%20SL-15CDM.jpg (http://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/images/Astron%20SL-15CDM.jpg)
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Odal3, Take it to an auto body shop and see if it can be bent/banged back into place enough to fit your amp.
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Thanks for the tip - already found another enclosure for it so I'm already happy as is. BTW: While looking into different paint options to get rid of the scratches on the Astron, I came across a page showing an alternative usage for the Astron: Here's a recipe how to use an Astron to convert a scratchy metal surface into a new "decorative, durable, corrosion-resistant, anodic oxide finish". The website shows how an old receiver is rescued.
http://www.ai4ji.com/Projects/anodizing.htm
However, my wife would throw me out if she caught me in the kitchen boiling an amp case on the stove. :lol:
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I am sold on linear amplifier!!, bought ten tac 927 from ebay and at first I heard significant humming noise from transformer and I finally figured out it was due to partly loose cover and I had the amp setup on a heavy furniture and it was the furniture that was vibrating and causing the noise.
I was somewhat surprised to put it on the stone countertop and it is nearly dead quiet (about 1/2ft away I can hear transformer), and now the sound is impressive on my TDA7297 amp. Various wallwart is hit and miss, and nice linear PS is indeed very impressive.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=110535)
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If you want a serious upgrade to you TDA7297 get some Belden 8412 for speaker wire. Attach the shield to circuit ground. DO NOT attach negative output to the shield.
The TDA7297 outputs are balanced. They need the shield, and for it to be grounded correctly.
Run the shield as close to the output terminals as you can.
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If you want a serious upgrade to you TDA7297 get some Belden 8412 for speaker wire. Attach the shield to circuit ground. DO NOT attach negative output to the shield.
The TDA7297 outputs are balanced. They need the shield, and for it to be grounded correctly.
Run the shield as close to the output terminals as you can.
I have the wire and not clear on exactly where to solder the shielded portion of the wire. I attached the generic picture (I have your mod). My case is nonmetallic and I have 2 prong DC coming into the amp as expected. Also not clear on "close to the output terminals..."
I am very interested in doing this correctly.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=110564)
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I just mean the most full coverage you can have, the better, all the way up to the board. The shield would connect to the - DC terminal in your picture. This could be done with another small wire soldered to the shield tails.
Remember, the - for outputs is not a ground, so whomever is reading don't think you can connect the shield there.
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I just mean the most full coverage you can have, the better, all the way up to the board. The shield would connect to the - DC terminal in your picture. This could be done with another small wire soldered to the shield tails.
Remember, the - for outputs is not a ground, so whomever is reading don't think you can connect the shield there.
Here we r using Belden wire as the speaker wire or as a shielded input?
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Does anyone have a recommendations for good quality dc power jacks and plug for an Astron powering one maybe two TPA 3116 amps. What sizes and ratings are recommended?Looked at partsexpress and theirs were rated at no more than 3 A. Switchcrafts were mentioned earlier.
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Almost forgot, there is a lot if humming from my Astron. Can hear it when no or very soft music. No difference if connected to the amp or not. Added woodblock underneath made it worse, and added some weight to the top took away some of the lower hum but made it more high pitched instead. There is no diff if put on a concrete floor or if removing the top metal cover so I can see the internals. What do you think is causing this and whats the best and easy fix?
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Speaker wire, gychang
If Astron hums bad you may have DC on your AC in house.
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Almost forgot, there is a lot if humming from my Astron. Can hear it when no or very soft music. No difference if connected to the amp or not. Added woodblock underneath made it worse, and added some weight to the top took away some of the lower hum but made it more high pitched instead. There is no diff if put on a concrete floor or if removing the top metal cover so I can see the internals. What do you think is causing this and whats the best and easy fix?
similar prob I had with ten-tac 937 PS, initially I connected to my chip amp on the furniture, I thought it was a hum from PS, but finally I moved the setup to my garage with built-in bench and no more noise, it was the furniture vibrating also tightened up the PS cover screws. Now it is dead quiet..., may not be your problem though...
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Speaker wire, gychang
so speaker wires will need to be connected the usual with Red/White plus shield-amp ground?... sorry for the newbie questions.
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Yes.
Shield is grounded to DC - , the circuit ground. It is not attached to speakers. The two wires inside cable are the + and - connected to output of amp and speakers. If you're using Belden 8412 it's white and black colors, but just use the white as black.
The unwrapped shield is big when you twist it together, which is why I suggested connecting a smaller wire from it to run to DC - .
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Almost forgot, there is a lot if humming from my Astron. Can hear it when no or very soft music. No difference if connected to the amp or not. Added woodblock underneath made it worse, and added some weight to the top took away some of the lower hum but made it more high pitched instead. There is no diff if put on a concrete floor or if removing the top metal cover so I can see the internals. What do you think is causing this and whats the best and easy fix?
Couple of questions: Is your case in perfect un-bent condition? Many of these very heavy Astron's have been dropped either by owners or in shipment. The one I got was indeed dropped which had bent the bolts holding the very heavy transformer, causing it to contact the case which caused a hum. I took the transformer out, straightened the bolts, and using a body hammer and dolly brought the case back into correct shape. Re installed everything, and no more hum :thumb:
You may want to check to see if the bolts holding the transformer are all tight. These big transformers are going to hum, but you shouldn't hear it without laying your ear on the case.
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You nailed it. Yes, there was some shipping damage. So I tightened all the screws, and slightly pushed some of the cables to the side from the sides. This reduced it a lot, and once I added some electrical tape in the lining where the cover touches the base (can't see it from the outside), it took away most vibration and hum, and I can only hear it when I put the ear up close.
Thank you for the help!!!
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We opened up his Astron RS-12A, and I was shocked to see this little 18,000uF/25V CDE electrolytic cap inside. Granted this cap has similar capacitance to the Kemet (formerly Rifa) PEH200 cap in my Astron RS-12A, the ESR is triple what the Kemet cap is specified at.
If you have a stock Astron power supply and you know how to work safely with AC mains power, you owe it to yourself to upgrade the caps.
I have a stock RS-7A (got from ebay) and wonder if this can be improved as done here, more information will be appreciated.
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Resurrecting an old thread, but I recently bought a Astron SL-11a to power two chip amps that I'm intending to use for vertically bi-amping my speakers. Question is, I'm having a hard time finding a "decent" DC power cable with a 2.1x5.5mm barrel (into amps) and lugs/spades/rings (onto Astron). Not looking for small gauge flimsy wire, nor something more than $20/cable. Not really a DIYer either.
- thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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I use this male but you can find them cheaper other places.
https://www.amazon.com/Female-Barrel-Connector-Cameras-LED/dp/B01LYF2MD1/ref=asc_df_B01LYF2MD1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216526779832&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11382453379016215444&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010373&hvtargid=pla-349825480523&psc=1
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Thanks PG!
I spent too much time looking for this, but in case anyone is wondering, I found a couple options:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CORD-DC-6FT-2-1mm-x-5-5mm-FTO-STRIP-TIN-PIGTAIL-18AWG-2-pcs/112267119526
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2M-GX16-2P-to-5-5-2-1mm-AC-DC-Linear-power-supply-cable-PSU-adapter-cable/132431050918
Of course I would need to take off the GX16 connector...