[Bhasi]

I've been driving my 6.1's with a Sonic Impact T-Amp and a Xindak tube/valve pre for a year or so now (the SE-9 is in storage) and I'm VERY pleased with the sounds I'm getting.  As the Xindak has double power-amp outputs, and as I've got a spare T-Amp, I've been wondering lately if there'd be any point in bi-amping.  Going active would be another option, I know (what happened to IRD Thailand and their projected crossovers, by the way?), but does anyone think simple bi-amping would be worth trying?  And would vertical or horizontal be better?

Yes, I know 'suck it and see' is probably the way to go, but I'm a bit on the lazy side, I'm afraid!

Thanks in advance for any input.

[jqp]

I would like to know about those IRD active crossovers also - I should try to contact Curt Wishman

[sas]

I wouldn't wait around for the IRD xovers.

If what you mean by 'simple' biamping is using one amp to power the tweeter side of the crossover, and another the woofer side, I'm afraid with the 6.1 it cannot be done. The speakers have one set of binding posts, leading to the crossover, where the channels are mixed save for a few components.

If what you mean is using two amps to power one speaker, I really don't see the need. the t-amp puts out a clean 7 watts, enough to drive the 6.1's to an uncomfortably loud 100db or so in real terms. Plus it may introduce other issues.

Active is a good idea. Rod Elliot at ESP in Australia makes the P09, a nice board for an active Xover. You will need some soldering skills. The advantage here is that you rip out the 6.1 crossover altogether. Not a bad thing as it doesn;t measure too well. You can also upgrade the drivers to something significantly better -- like the Usher models mentioned here: http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=usher2way.html
or the Peerless HDS range.

I think these will just slot into the cut outs on the 6.1's.

Make an active xover set at around 2.2khz and there you go.

[Bhasi]

sas:

Thanks for your reply and sorry for taking so long to see it and respond.  I'll definitely look into your active suggestions and the idea of upgrading the drivers is very appealing too. 

By the way, I started thinking about this because, in addition to the pre's dual outputs, my SM6.1's have twin binding posts too.  (Maybe this was altered in later production runs?)

Anyway, many thanks for your advice.