[nelsondog96]

 Hi, I’d like to build a simple, budget home theatre system with 2 channel sound.
 Because we live in a rural area internet is not always available so this will be built for offline entertainment. I would like to utilize the gear we have at our disposal which includes a couple hard drives filled with movies etc, an Apple TV box (4th gen?) and I would like to get an older Mac mini if I need a computer at all.
 We don’t have a tv yet so I’m thinking it will be a Sony KDL-50W667G.
 Sound will be a cheap little class-D amp. Speakers will be some Dynaudio midbass and tweeters salvaged from a Volvo. Bass will be a pair of older Focal 27v car audio woofers all incorporated into a tv console.
Any thoughts, comments or concerns?

[nelsondog96]

 Please excuse me if this subject has been already covered. All I ask is a link to the discussion to where I can follow the advice of others with like interests.
Thanks in advance

[Phil A]

So I guess if I understand you correctly, you're doing a 2-channel HT and would like to maximize music quality on the set-up?  Or am I off base?  You said cheap but there's not a budget indicated - $300, $600, $900?  If I understand what you're asking perhaps a used or refurbished HT receiver would be fro the budget conscious.  The Class D amp could be used to power the bass (from the subwoofer out of the receiver) and the receiver to power the other speakers.  I assume you intend to have a crossover from the midbass to the tweeters?  You'll need to figure out the frequency response and perhaps get a reasonable crossover from a place like Parts Express.  The midbass probably needs to go down to a certain level, depending on the receiver to be of decent usable quality (e.g. 120Hz).  Personally vs. using those, you may just be better off getting a cheap pair of floorstanders.  There's Craigslist and other resources.  If you get a receiver with preamp outs you can do powered speakers.  I don't know how these sound, but they're not expensive - https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/tower-1/?in_stock=1&Bundle=No    There's also - https://www.accessories4less.com/?type=&page=category&action=&id=spkfloor&mode=&search_query=&category=&thumb_sort=store_price.asc   and they have receivers as well (note that the $100 and $200 each speakers say almost sold out).  There are some receivers that have a USB input and they can play music from attached hard drives and then you wouldn't need a PC or Mac Mini.  I'd think vs. mess with all the car stuff something decent off Craigslist might be better for cheaper things.  You can use this to search various Craigslists - http://www.adhuntr.com/  Wouldn't the Apple TV box require internet?

[Early B.]

Speakers will be some Dynaudio midbass and tweeters salvaged from a Volvo. Bass will be a pair of older Focal 27v car audio woofers all incorporated into a tv console.

There's no point building a 2-channel HT setup if it's gonna sound like garbage. Your budget should include actual speakers, not crap cobbled from cars.   

[JLM]

There's no point building a 2-channel HT setup if it's gonna sound like garbage. Your budget should include actual speakers, not crap cobbled from cars.   

+1

My taste/budget is probably more Champagne than yours, but I cringe at the thought of wasting effort on such a hodgepodge, unless it's purely for your own education.

[Doublej]

I think you are asking two questions.

1. How do I play content on a hard drive on a Home Theater System?
2. How do I build a 2.1 audio system (L/R plus subwoofer) using drivers I have in my possession?

I am pretty sure each one has been discussed in detail on Audio Circle, Audio Asylum, AVS Forum, etc. The short answers are:

1. Using an HDMI cable, feed video/audio to the TV and then use the audio out from your TV to send the audio to the 2.1 audio system.

1. Or you split video and audio signals at the source (Mac mini) and send the video to the TV using the HDMI port on the Mac and the audio to the 2.1 audio system using 3.5mm or headphone jack on the Mac. You control which port the video and audio signals are sent to using the Mac's System Preferences.

2. You are building passive speakers and need to use the appropriate sized cabinets for the drivers you have and build appropriate crossovers for them. You'll also need to provide amplification to power them.

[WC]

Simplest scenario:

Get a TV with analog outputs (RCA). This will only provide you with 2 channels out and no sub channel. You can run the 2 channels into the class D amp. TV would provide volume control. In your scenario you would still need something to provide the crossover between the sub and the speakers. Putting the bass in the center console is probably not the best location for the bass. A sub with a plate amp would probably be a better choice or a miniDSP and another amp for the sub. Unless you have some ability to size and design speakers your idea for reusing drivers would be experimental at best. To improve the sound I would either buy new/used speakers or build speakers based on a design. Adding a DAC to the system between the TV and the amp may also make things sound better.

You will need a computer to connect up to the TV or figure out a way to airplay from the computer to the AppleTV or play from within one of the apps. Computer may be simpler.

[WGH]

Your plan is certainly doable. The Dynaudio midbass and tweeters might be pretty good. The Focal 27 V1 is a 11" subwoofer so it should rattle the house along with the TV console so you should consider making a couple of bass boxes that are heavily braced with 1-1/2" sides, top and bottom. The woofer specs will determine if the box should be ported or sealed. Matthew Polk of Polk Audio used a car subwoofer when he designed the HVCD Sub-Woofer (High Velocity Compression Drive) which is still used in Polk speakers today.

Here are directions how to make the HVCD Sub-Woofer:
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=162503.msg1729774#msg1729774

You will need all the speaker specs to determine the crossover points. How high will the woofer play? How low will the midbass go? Crossover slope? A gentle 1st order or a steep 4 order, you don't want the drivers playing out of their range so you don't get distortion. Even a little distortion will screw up movie dialog, a good example are all the affordable (cheap) TV soundbars available. I have heard many stories about people enabling closed captioning so they can read what the actors are saying because it is so garbled through the soundbar.

The hard drives have to go into something. I play movies using a computer and the free VLC Media Player. Since the TV you mentioned is 1080p then you don't need a super fast processor. If you plan to get a 2160p TV then you will need the latest processor to play movies without stuttering. My latest build uses an Intel i7 11th Gen processor because it natively supports 2160p @ 60Hz. Check to see if the older Mac Mini will play 1080p @ 60 Hz, if it doesn't then you will have bought a door stop. And the computer needs a HDMI output port, not all do.

A HDMI Breakout Box will separate the audio and video so you can route the audio to the class D amp and speakers but you will need an integrated class D amp with a volume control. A volume control is very important. Here is a breakout box for $21.99
https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Converter-Optical-Toslink-Support/dp/B08GRZTZ6W/ref=asc_df_B08GRZTZ6W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475825775681&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16455237461790401084&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030244&hvtargid=pla-1115559638574&th=1

You have some homework ahead of you.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

Why don't you get a pair of these Dayton Audio B652 speakers for about $60pr.  They are supposed to sound pretty good given their price.  Certainly way better than Car speakers.

https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/756/b652-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-pair

or the Tower version which is on sale for $179pr

Make sure the TV has Bluetooth and get an amp with bluetooth

Add a Dayton Audio Class digital amp-

https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1635/dta-120bt2-class-d-mini-amplifier-60-wpc-with-bluetooth

https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1607/dta-pro-100w-class-d-bluetooth-amplifier-with-usb-dac-ir-remote-and-sub-output

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Amplifier-Integrated-Converter-Streaming/dp/B07K7MYTXX/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1VU3XNPVPHA5R&dchild=1&keywords=bluetooth+amplifier+stereo+receiver+with+dac&qid=1635094464&qsid=140-2288977-1455311&sprefix=bluetooth+amplifier+stereo+receiver+with+dac%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-5&sres=B08NCXZHRB%2CB014A676BK%2CB07K7MYTXX%2CB07F6ZP5WF%2CB07XMKJ8SH%2CB01A6ND1LU%2CB083ZR4SKR%2CB07TJS2DBT%2CB077QPTPVW%2CB07XL4TM3M%2CB07QZD3SF1%2CB07BQC7GNL%2CB07K7NJ4QN%2CB016NUTG5K%2CB076XSBCCL%2CB076P2VS9H&srpt=AV_RECEIVER

If you get one of the amps with a DAC you can hook it up to the optical out on the TV which would sound better than Bluetooth

Just remember, these cheap amps put out about half of their listed power.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

It looks like Parts Express has Dayton speakers on sale for $39pr-

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-6-1-2-2-Way-Bookshelf-Speaker-Pair-300-652

Same speaker with AMT tweeter-

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-AIR-6-1-2-Bookshelf-Speaker-Pair-with-AMT-Tweeter-300-651

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-T652-Dual-6-1-2-2-Way-Tower-Speaker-Pair-300-653

https://www.parts-express.com/home-a-v/Home-Audio-Components/home-audio-amplifiers

[charmerci]

I've had those Dayton's. They're ok. If you get them, they need power.


I now have the Maverick tubemagic D1 (thanks to IG Fan!) and the JBL 305's (they REALLY need bracing) and that's fantastic! The D1 has two line outs too.

[viggen]

Look up Micca on amazon.  They got well reviewed amp/dac and speakers that are very affordable.

Also look up miniforum and beelink on amazon for a cheap PC as source.  Might need an external HDD to store your media.

If you want to go with active speakers hence forgoing the amp, Micca and Edifier are good.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

Look up Micca on amazon.  They got well reviewed amp/dac and speakers that are very affordable.

Also look up miniforum and beelink on amazon for a cheap PC as source.  Might need an external HDD to store your media.

If you want to go with active speakers hence forgoing the amp, Micca and Edifier are good.

The Micca with the on board DAC looks great but no remote.  This Aiyima got a good review from the Cheap Audio Man but it is more like 30-50wpc not 300.  And again, no remote unless you use the RCA from the TV and the sound will be just so so.  Better to get one with a DAC built in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJZGT6H/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08CJZGT6H&pd_rd_w=7zxO0&pf_rd_p=54ed5474-54a8-4c7f-a88a-45f748d18166&pd_rd_wg=gS6HM&pf_rd_r=SDNNDXNJ8T2XY7BXFMVE&pd_rd_r=6fe453b9-0da0-4359-a05e-aa3c95b385dd&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzU1NBWlZCVEJIWDU0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzg3NDE0MkwzTjhNN0NWWEpEUyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA4NDg2M1ZKQU1JTTU2VkJYNyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[viggen]

If use PC as source/media server, then use mouse as remote.

[nelsondog96]

Or just use the remote that comes with the Apple TV. You guys seem to get carried away very quickly all on your own! Hahaha
 Since this is my thread and I have made a big mistake by asking 2 questions at the same time, I’ll rephrase my question and ask one at a time.
 #1, How can I watch movies off-line using an Apple TV for navigation and interface?
 Thanks & sorry for any confusion

[nelsondog96]

 I’m in the Philippines so buying American products is financially prohibitive.
 

[I.Greyhound Fan]

Get a Mac Mini computer.

Also, skip the car speakers and get a cheap sound bar from Yamaha or something similar

[Doublej]

Does this help?

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202190

It might be possible to plug the hard drive directly into the Apple TV as it has a USB port but I am not sure if it will work.

[WGH]

My thinking is just because the speakers were in a car doesn't necessarily mean they are bad but there should be a cost-benefit analysis done before embarking on this project.

The effort of fitting the 6 speakers into a TV console, buying a 3-way speaker crossover plus an integrated amp may cost more than a soundbar. 'Budget' is in the thread title but the OP might be ready for the challenge.

The Focal 27 V will have a flat response (F3) down to 45 Hz - 51 Hz depending on cabinet size and then decrease in volume so the woofer doesn't go that low but it certainly kicks butt at 100 Hz. The upper frequency response drops rapidly after 200 Hz and then gets real ragged. Just guessing but the crossover would need a 200 Hz low-pass filter with a steep 4th order or more slope. The Dynaudio midrange would have to be able to go down to 200 Hz.




You would have to look for a crossover with those low frequency parameters. Amazon and eBay have assembled 3-way crossovers starting at $15 a pair. They all look a little questionable but we're not building the Taj Maha here but something closer to a Rube Goldberg machine.

If the assembled crossover looks close to the 'Good' drawing then at least the designer knows the basics of crossover design and it may sound better.

[WGH]

Staying with the 'budget friendly' theme, all new TV's along with the Sony KDL-50W667G will natively play video files from a thumb drive (format the drive to NTFS for big files). I have a couple of friends who use this method to watch movies and they use soundbars.
Their TV's will play the most common video wrappers like MKV, AVI(XVID), and MP4 but also WAV and MP3 music files plus JPEG photos (and more).

There are a few drawbacks and quirks with different brands of TV's video players but when it works it works great and is definitely a cheap and cheerful solution to watch movies without a bunch of boxes and wires.

We can't get a friends Samsung TV to enable subtitles in foreign films, the option just isn't in one of the menus.
Another friend's new 65" Sony has no option to backup the movie, which seem really weird to me but nope, can't backup to watch that fight scene again.
Big MKV files with both DTS-HD MA and Dolby Atmos soundtracks seem to confuse the TV's video player and sometimes videos won't play for no apparent reason at all
(it could be the DTS format) even though they play perfectly using a computer and VLC Media Player.

A USB extension cable makes it easy to plug in the thumb drive without having to reach behind the TV and keeps the TV's USB socket from wearing out or breaking if you play a lot of movies.