An FYI on a remote option for purist

JoshK · « **on:** 22 Sep 2003, 07:20 pm »

First off, I hope this is appropriate. I am not meaning to divert sales elsewhere so if you deem inappropriate, Curt, I readily allow you to delete this post, or contact me and I'll edit/delet.

Just as an FYI, I have been discussing with John Chapman of Bent Audio (here) about retrofitting his DACT remote kit to my IRD purist. I was too impatient to wait for the Sabai and plus I wanted the ultimate in purity. I do like however, John's solution to hi quality pots and adding remotes. I've inquired with John and we seem to think it should work.

John's solution costs $250 and you have to DIY. The Sabai I think was slated to be only $100 more than the purist. But for those, like me, who were impatient and/or wanted the stepped attenuator implementation but want to add remote volume (only) to your purist, this might be the way to go.

Hopefully I will be able to report my sucess here.[/url]

Curt · « **Reply #1 on:** 22 Sep 2003, 08:06 pm »

I've been watching that thread.

If you want a "volume only" remote and can get the Bent into the Purist it might work out for you.

The hardest part will be mounting the PCB to the front steel panel and drilling and figuring the finishing of the IR window in the aluminium faceplate. You may also need a router.

I noticed you didn't ask him what voltage (and current) you will need. That should be your next step. The Purist has a regulated 12VDC supply you can easily tap into, I left holes in the PCB that you can solder wires into.

A key issue will be not to contaminate the audio with noise, there are traces you will need to avoid where your going to mount the motor.

I'll be glad to help you via e-mail during your project.

JoshK · « **Reply #2 on:** 22 Sep 2003, 08:55 pm »

That is b/c the remote kit uses its own seperate power supply. It doesn't touch the preamp's supply. Another reason I like it. I don't need remote switching. If I switch, it is between the CD and the TT, and I have to get up anyway to que up an LP, but the volume is nice to fine tune while sitting.

Curt · « **Reply #3 on:** 22 Sep 2003, 09:09 pm »

It's own power supply? What kind of supply?

Does that mean you need to run AC to the Bent PCB? Or use a wall transformer?

Marbles · « **Reply #4 on:** 22 Sep 2003, 09:15 pm »

When my remote was added to my Bent, a wall wart is run to a stand alone pcb, which is wired to the motor. This motor is attached to the attenuator via a "belt".

There was a hole drilled in the rear of the pre-amp, for the power supply, and a hole drilled in the faceplate to recieve the signal from the hand held remote.

The addition of the remote has no impact on the sound of my unit in any way. I can still manually turn the attenuator as well should I desire.

This is a very nice remote unit that is completely hidden from view except a very small hole in the faceplate.

Curt · « **Reply #5 on:** 23 Sep 2003, 03:13 pm »

JoshK,

I saw the remotes photo's at Bent's website. Lots of wires...

You should find out what voltage the PCB needs (and what current) and try to get rid of the wall wart supply. It would be a much cleaner mod without the external supply. The PCB requirements can be safely assumed to be the same as the rating of the wall wart supply.

Using the Purist's internal 12VDC supply (if it's enough) you could shorten the wiring on the motor and shorten the power ribbon. The mod would almost look factory quality.

The 12VDC supply is used only for relays and would not effect the sound in any way.

Enough said, if you decide to proceed and need help just drop me an email.

JoshK · « **Reply #6 on:** 18 Nov 2003, 09:15 pm »

Curt,

Thanks for the help. I haven't given up on this just had to finish some other things first. I am getting close to pulling the trigger, just need to finalize the details. I will ask John what the current rating of the wall wart is, but the wiring diagram says the p/s is 12vdc

.

If I understand you correctly, tapping into the Purist's p/s wouldn't affect the sound because the motor's need is relay? So theoretically it would only affect it when changing the volume? If so that is cool and I will use the Purist's supply and keep all wiring short.

John asked if the back of the attenuator has a little tab that sticks out like on the DACT's. Otherwise I think we will have to figure out a way to make it work.

JoshK · « **Reply #7 on:** 18 Nov 2003, 11:54 pm »

John Chapman of Bent Audio had this to say:

Quote

It takes 12V and is clean to power from inside the chassis if you can scoop the power there. Takes about 300 mA or so when it is turning the motor - virtually no power consumed in standby. I use an 800 mA wall supply but that is oversized - as always.... About 1/2 the units I ship end up powered internally like that.

Curt · « **Reply #8 on:** 19 Nov 2003, 07:04 am »

Quote from: JoshK

John Chapman of Bent Audio had this to say:

Quote
It takes 12V and is clean to power from inside the chassis if you can scoop the power there. Takes about 300 mA or so when it is turning the motor - virtually no power consumed in standby. I use an 800 mA wall supply but that is oversized - as always.... About 1/2 the units I ship end up powered internally like that.

Yes, you can tap into 12Vdc in our relay control supply without effecting the audio quality. The 300mA requirement is not a problem.

Our switch is different from DACTs switch but the rear stub does look similar, you would need to check it out yourself.

JoshK · « **Reply #9 on:** 25 Nov 2003, 03:46 pm »

Doh!! It doesn't fit.

Unfortunately, the motor doesn't seem to be able to work with this preamp. I really REALLY wanted it to work but the problems seems not to be with the stub but the clearance. The motor just doesn't have enough room between the switch and a cap on the board behind the switch.

back to the drawing board...