[Theronbo]

Are these wired serial or parallel?

There are 2 subs (low) & 2 mid drivers (speaker cones).

I assume they’re to be wired in parallel.

But, wanted to verify.

I purchased the kit.

I’ve built the cabinets.

The bits came with zero instructions.

I used the cabinet design from the link on the order page.

Anyone making a flat pack for these? (Cabinets)  I’m still learning to cut a straight line.

Did the price jump? I paid $400, now it’s $699. Is this the same bits? That’s a pretty serious price jump.
Not complaining... I got mine.

[tate roth]

It looks like they use the 16 ohm woofers now and I assume so in the past, would only make sense to parallel the pairs for an 8 ohm load.  Not sure about flat packs though.

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Are these wired serial or parallel?

There are 2 subs (low) & 2 mid drivers (speaker cones).

I assume they’re to be wired in parallel.

But, wanted to verify.

Yes the woofers and mid woofers are independently wired in parallel.

I purchased the kit.

I’ve built the cabinets.

The bits came with zero instructions.

I used the cabinet design from the link on the order page.

Anyone making a flat pack for these? (Cabinets)  I’m still learning to cut a straight line.

Did the price jump? I paid $400, now it’s $699. Is this the same bits? That’s a pretty serious price jump.
Not complaining... I got mine.

To my knowledge, no one is making flat-packs for fhe X-Statik.

Yes, the price went up because the stock crossover boards that waete sold with the original kit are no longer available, so the kit now requires crossover assembly much like the XLS, so it required a higher price. Still worth the jump in price tbh.

[hawkeyejw]

Confirmed - as Hobbs said each pair of woofers is wired together in parallel. I thought my kit came with a wiring diagram showing the wiring but I may be misremembering. At any rate, if you have the original kit with the pre-built PCB crossover boards, it's as simple as running a pair of wires from each of the labeled Tweeter/Mid/Woofer connections to the applicable speaker to start with. Then for the mids and woofers, you'll have another set of +/- going from the speaker that is wired to the crossover, up to the +/- terminal of the second speaker.

One other quick recommendation - measure out your runs of wire beforehand and try to cut them without a lot of extra length for your runs. There's plenty there to wire the speakers, but not enough that you're going to have extra that you can cut down to length for each driver as you go. You'll want to have the length cut to what you'll need without much extra for each run.

[Redorseyjr]

I just got the x-static kit as well.  I’m having the same questions on the crossover and wiring.  Seems like it wouldn’t be too much effort to provide a more realistic diagram versus the schematic.  I got all of the upgrades and would be grateful for some help on what the crossover/ wiring layout needs to look like.  I am planning to run the wires to the upper drivers via a channel that I am routing in the inside back panel to keep the exposure to a minimum.  Any thoughts on that?

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Feel free to DM me for help with the crossover.

[Theronbo]

Really appreciate all the quick replies.

I think I understand what I need to do.

I’ve been taking pictures as I proceeded... might publish when I’m done.

Some of the craftsmanship I’ve seen on here is pretty humbling.

I want to get these finished so I can listen to them.

Just painted the base cabinets. Need to rip 48” oak 1x12 planks for the face & jigsaw all the holes.
Then stain & finish.

Make the matching MDF upper back pieces cut holes, router wire conduit grooves... & paint.

Then wire & assembly.

[Danny Richie]

Are these wired serial or parallel?

There are 2 subs (low) & 2 mid drivers (speaker cones).

I assume they’re to be wired in parallel.

Yes, both sets of drivers get wired in parallel.

But, wanted to verify.

I purchased the kit.

I’ve built the cabinets.

The bits came with zero instructions.

You should have received a wiring diagram and cabinet plans.

I used the cabinet design from the link on the order page.

Anyone making a flat pack for these? (Cabinets)  I’m still learning to cut a straight line.

Killian is iching to build out a few sets of these. I bet he can cut you one or build out some cabinets.

Did the price jump? I paid $400, now it’s $699. Is this the same bits? That’s a pretty serious price jump.
Not complaining... I got mine.

We had about 500 of the Chinese made completed crossovers that we were throwing in for free. They're gone now so we are having to provide crossover parts with all US made parts and we do have to charge for those.

[Theronbo]

Thanks Dannie,

Appreciate the reply.

I’ve about have my cabinets completed now.

Figuring how to cut a clean hole in a piece of oak. Jig saw ain’t working. Trying a router with a home made jig now. Fortunately, I’m a lot more comfortable soldering than carpentry.

I used 3/4” MDF for the lower cabinet & oak plank for the face plate.

I’ve read some are using 1” MDF, that seems extreme...

But watching your videos I’m guessing you don’t perceive anything as too extreme in building speakers.

[hawkeyejw]

Danny's recommended material for constructing the cabinets is MDF, which can be strong enough on its own at 3/4" thick for the baffle, but will have a good bit of flex in the upper section which isn't ideal. The plans actually call for the top, unsupported section of the baffle to be made of 1 1/2" thick MDF.

If you have a router, I highly recommend buying one of these to cut the circles for the baffle and braces: https://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A

[Theronbo]

Finished.

Used MDF for lower cabinet, Red Oak for face plate & lower trim.

Had to buy: 4’x8’ MDF 1x12x8’ oak plank
Stain
Teak oil
Sanding wash
Sanding cylinders
Router
Higher watt solder iron
Made my own circle template from plexiglass
Impressed every thing worked on first power.

Sounds better (more balanced) than my JBL 530s. & cost about the same.

[Theronbo]

Don’t know why these come up sideways...

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Fixed them for ya! 
(Nice work btw!)

[corndog71]

I really like the rounded top but I wonder if that affects the performance.

[Theronbo]

I have no idea... since I’ve never heard the original speaker.

I was having fun with the router... used 3/8 round over bit on both sides.

Also playing with my hacked circle template.
Used 1/4” straight but for cutting circles 1/8” deep each pass 6 passes total to cut 3/4” wood or medium.

[Theronbo]

When I first hooked them up... they didn’t seem dramatically better than my JBL 530.

Little fuller, better balanced, but didn’t knock me outa my chair.

Now after a few hours listening...

& switching speakers back & forth....

Wow... difference is dramatic.

Set AMP (Marantz SR5014) to “Large Front Speakers” to remove subwoofer from stereo mode.
That  also noticeable changed the sound.  Better.

[Theronbo]

Crap,

Now I have to build an X-Static center speaker...

Wasn’t in my plan...

But these sound so good...

& center channel is so important...

Klipsch RP500C Is what I have now. Saw Danny’s VDO on upgrade to 600.
So, guessing my 500 doesn’t rate. It was a significant upgrade at the time.

Oh well, more fun in the workshop.

[Danny Richie]

I'll trade you a center channel kit for that pool table. 

It looks nice!

[hawkeyejw]

It's a good problem to have and if you do simple glued butt joints the X-voce is a much easier build than the Statiks. The build instructions that came with mine were in their original Spanish from the AV123 days and used mitered joints so I created my own cut list as follows:

Bottom: 36" x 14 1/4"
Sides: 7" x 14 1/4"
Back Panels: 7" x 7"
Top Panels: 8 1/2" x 14 1/4"
Baffle: 36" x 8.5"

It's really just a flat base with a rectangular box on each side and the baffle across the front.

Glad you're enjoying your X-Statiks. They've been a huge step up for me as well and I really enjoy the clarity of the X-Voce to match up with the X-Statiks.

[Theronbo]

Thanks for the cut list... Since I’ve become comfortable with the router, might try rabbet joints of some kind... MDF is so cheap you don’t worry about trying technics on it & throwing it away.

Already ordered the X-Voce.

Course I’ll have to put oak faceplate to match the speakers. Might put oak on top of MDF...

Now, day of listening... can’t believe how many songs have completely new detail in them...

Really improves orchestral works... I mean a lot.

One album, the sound track to Fabulous Baker Boys ... I thought had been mixed wrong... I had to switch to Dolby mode to hear a michelle pfeiffer‘s voice at all... I mean it did come from a Dolby soundtrack... Yeah, huge difference.