$175 Class D amp--120 wpc

Spanglo · « **Reply #3540 on:** 26 May 2013, 05:01 pm »

Update:

It was the input signal from the receiver causing the issues. I upgraded to a new Denon receiver, and everything works perfectly.

justd · « **Reply #3541 on:** 22 Jun 2013, 03:10 pm »

would be grateful if some could help me quickly. Does it matter if the wire to the speaker binding posts are close to the torroidal transformer inside the amp case.

Barry_NJ · « **Reply #3542 on:** 22 Jun 2013, 04:54 pm »

Quote from: justd on 22 Jun 2013, 03:10 pm

would be grateful if some could help me quickly. Does it matter if the wire to the speaker binding posts are close to the torroidal transformer inside the amp case.

To be honest, some will say "Yes" others "No", but distance between power and audio carrying cables can't hurt

justd · « **Reply #3543 on:** 22 Jun 2013, 08:10 pm »

Thanks Barry. Actually the toroids and the speaker wire will be in different boxes. Only they will have a 12mm wood ply between them. A a situation might occur that the speaker wire might be going right over the core of the transformer.( though I can easily avoid it)

So was thinking if the magnetic feild of the transformer will affect the speaker wire.

Also I could line the transformer box will aluminium foil and connect it to earth. Would that help ?

rajesh · « **Reply #3544 on:** 30 Jun 2013, 02:25 am »

Quote from: justd on 22 Jun 2013, 08:10 pm

the toroids and the speaker wire will be in different boxes. Only they will have a 12mm wood ply between them. A a situation might occur that the speaker wire might be going right over the core of the transformer.( though I can easily avoid it)

So was thinking if the magnetic feild of the transformer will affect the speaker wire.

Also I could line the transformer box will aluminium foil and connect it to earth. Would that help ?

AFAIK, plywood does not provide any shielding. As regards EMI from the toroid, due to the construction of the toroid, it would be 'Y' plane of the toroid (perpendicular to the toroid), extending above and below the hole of the doughnut. So avoid routing the speaker wire over the toroid. Routing it adjacent should not matter IMO.

Speedskater · « **Reply #3545 on:** 30 Jun 2013, 01:17 pm »

Always twist speaker cables and always twist power cables for that matter. The exceptions being, pre-twisted cable and shielded cables.

soundnoob · « **Reply #3546 on:** 12 Jul 2013, 03:57 am »

Hey there I have the SDS-254 which i am building for these http://www.audioheuristics.org/projects_gallery/ER18DXT/ER18DXT.htm#

I am now adding another speaker as the center channel and need a mono amp to drive it. Which series would you recommend? Tom said I could use either the CDA254 or SDS254 in bridged mode.

krikor · « **Reply #3547 on:** 12 Jul 2013, 01:50 pm »

Quote from: soundnoob on 12 Jul 2013, 03:57 am

Hey there I have the SDS-254 which i am building for these http://www.audioheuristics.org/projects_gallery/ER18DXT/ER18DXT.htm#

I am now adding another speaker as the center channel and need a mono amp to drive it. Which series would you recommend? Tom said I could use either the CDA254 or SDS254 in bridged mode.

I'd say go with another SDS-254 since it will match your main amp and you can adjust the gain to match (CDA has fixed gain). Just a thought.

soundnoob · « **Reply #3548 on:** 12 Jul 2013, 02:00 pm »

Thanks krikor that's a lot of money for a mono amp

oh well

krikor · « **Reply #3549 on:** 12 Jul 2013, 02:58 pm »

Quote from: soundnoob on 12 Jul 2013, 02:00 pm

Thanks krikor that's a lot of money for a mono amp oh well

Yeah, I wasn't thinking about price. You can save a few bucks going with the 224 (instead of the 254) since that will put out all the power you need when bridged. I also suppose you could just go with the CDA version and adjust the SDS amps to match the mono CDA. That saves you quite a bit. I assume you are looking to stay with ClassDaudio amps (that way you at least have the same family sound).

mikeeastman · « **Reply #3550 on:** 30 Jul 2013, 01:39 pm »

How do you wire the classD amp remote? It is probably somewhere in this post but being a computer idiot I have almost never been able to find anything using the search function

.The way I wired it was obviously wrong because all I got was smoke and fire

, thankfully it was only the remote wire that burned not the amp which is still working.

Thanks, Mike

mboxler · « **Reply #3551 on:** 30 Jul 2013, 04:59 pm »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 30 Jul 2013, 01:39 pm

How do you wire the classD amp remote? It is probably somewhere in this post but being a computer idiot I have almost never been able to find anything using the search function .The way I wired it was obviously wrong because all I got was smoke and fire , thankfully it was only the remote wire that burned not the amp which is still working.

Thanks, Mike

Hey Mike

I couldn't find anything previously posted in this thread (Click on the PRINT button...this will format the entire thread into one document. Then you can use your browser's find function). Is this for power on/off only? What remote control brand/model are you trying to install?

Mike

mikeeastman · « **Reply #3552 on:** 30 Jul 2013, 10:49 pm »

I'm not using a remote control, I just want to turn amps on and off using a relay connected to the amps remote on off. Thanks for advice on using print and browser search function, but you missed the computer idiot comment I made, how do you do a browser search

Thanks, Mike

srb · « **Reply #3553 on:** 30 Jul 2013, 11:06 pm »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 30 Jul 2013, 10:49 pm

Thanks for advice on using print and browser search function, but you missed the computer idiot comment I made, how do you do a browser search

Firefox: Edit > Find (Ctrl + F)
Internet Explorer: Edit > Find on this page (Ctrl + F)
Chrome: Menu Button > Find (Ctrl + F)
Safari: Edit > Find > Find (Ctrl + F)

Steve

mikeeastman · « **Reply #3554 on:** 1 Aug 2013, 01:28 pm »

Thanks srb for computer info, but still can't find anything on how to wire a remote on off switch.

mboxler · « **Reply #3555 on:** 1 Aug 2013, 02:13 pm »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 1 Aug 2013, 01:28 pm

Thanks srb for computer info, but still can't find anything on how to wire a remote on off switch.

Hi Mike

I think we may have a terminology issue (well, I have a lot of other issues, but..). Is this to add/replace a toggle switch before the power supply, or are you trying to wire to the on/off holes on the SDS amplifier boards?

Mike

mikeeastman · « **Reply #3556 on:** 1 Aug 2013, 04:09 pm »

On my PS board the is a 2 slot connector that says remote, that is what I'm was trying to connect to, but if the on off hole will work that fine. What I want to do is connect the remote on off to a relay that I can activate from my bed.

Thanks, Mike

pelliott321 · « **Reply #3557 on:** 18 Sep 2013, 05:53 pm »

I have had a CDA 224 since Oct 2010 and it has preformed brilliantly. I did beef up the PS by replacing the 4700mf caps with 10000mf caps.
I have just purchased a CDA 258 for another system and want to beef up its caps also. I do not remember where I got them from. does anybody have a good (cheap) source for these.

TrungT · « **Reply #3558 on:** 18 Sep 2013, 06:00 pm »

Check out Apex Jr

pelliott321 · « **Reply #3559 on:** 19 Sep 2013, 12:48 pm »

Thanks TrungT
great lead